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2010 maxima random loss of power to gas pedal

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Old Jan 2, 2021 | 12:21 PM
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Corey Joy's Avatar
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2010 maxima random loss of power to gas pedal

Leaving work Thursday about half way home all the lights lit up on the left side of the dash then the rpm and sped tech lost power dropped down to zero and then randomly came back on and this happened about 4 times till I parked my car. At idle it’s fine but once I’m driving it randomly loses power to the gas pedal but the car stays running so I have no idea what causes this to happen
Old Jan 2, 2021 | 06:54 PM
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See if there were any codes thrown, that is your starting point to correct the problem.
Old Jan 2, 2021 | 08:20 PM
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Dead battery.
Old Jan 2, 2021 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Richard66
See if there were any codes thrown, that is your starting point to correct the problem.
there was a transmission code in the system but that’s it and the battery is only 3 months old
Old Jan 3, 2021 | 02:44 PM
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It would seem to be electrical. Connections, Alternator, or battery. Start with verifying connections, then get out a voltmeter and check what is going on.
Old Jan 5, 2021 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by LtLeary
It would seem to be electrical. Connections, Alternator, or battery. Start with verifying connections, then get out a voltmeter and check what is going on.
I left it at the mechanics because I have work everyday and haven’t had the time to check it out myself and the guy calls me this morning said he took it for a ride and there was no issue so I’m going to pick it up today, check the battery voltage then take it to someone who can figure out if it’s a sensor or something along those lines if it’s not the battery
Old Jan 5, 2021 | 03:33 PM
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I went and picked up my car today it fires up no issues, the mechanic said he drove it twice and couldn’t find anything wrong with it. I drove 3/4 of the way home and then it happened again really fast lost power to the gas pedal then it came back so I don’t know what’s wrong with this thing it’s not throwing off any codes
Old Jan 5, 2021 | 03:51 PM
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Any correlation with bumps and/or orientation e.g. up hills/around corners? With the dash lighting up sure sounds like a flakey connection. Could even be ignition but my bet is connection somewhere.

Take a look at this diagnosedan episode. It may spur some new ideas. Https://youtu.be/v-Y_20hFqwY

Last edited by LtLeary; Jan 5, 2021 at 03:59 PM.
Old Jan 6, 2021 | 01:23 PM
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Update, I dropped the car off at another place this morning near the job site and they just called, said they took it for a ride it didn’t happen to them and that there’s no check engine or any codes coming up so they don’t know the problem
im going to change the battery I have a warranty on it and then when I have a day of work this weekend run down all connections in the car. I live in New England and it’s dark by the time I get out of work so this has become really annoying lol
Old Jan 7, 2021 | 07:35 AM
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Etb

Has anyone had problems with their electric throttle body sensor? I’m wondering if that’s the cause for my car to randomly lose power to the gas pedal and come back because the sensor is starting to go bad
Old Jan 7, 2021 | 10:53 AM
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Alternator
Old Jan 7, 2021 | 12:06 PM
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I don't understand why the battery would be suggested. It's primary function is to start the car, not keep it running. OP has no issues starting the car, so it doesn't even appear weak or suspect.

Perform a voltage load test on the alternator at idle and report back. Wiggle and check all connections at alternator.
Old Jan 9, 2021 | 04:54 PM
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So the alternator and battery have both been tested and was told both are good, at idle iv noticed the battery light and brake light will light up and go away and when it does that if I touch the gas pedal all the lights on the left side light up and I have no throttle response and the left headlight will go out then I get all power back. So the alternator could be on its way out then?
Old Jan 10, 2021 | 08:22 AM
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https://maxima.org/forums/7th-genera...ery-light.html
Sounds like this problem.
Old Jan 11, 2021 | 03:37 PM
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I believe it has something to do with the alternator, I went to autozone yesterday they tested my battery it was 90% charged and the alternator was tested it was fine but once the lights on my dash came up it said alternator fail on their test so I don’t believe them 100% but I’m sure it’s something to do with it so if I get out of work early enough I’m changing the serpentine belt because mine is worn see what happens maybe it’s slipping causing power loss and I’ll go from there. I got a quote today for a alternator replacement with labor for $450-$500 and just labor starting at $225-$275 so after I change the belt and clean the connections if I still have the issue I’ll have it replaced for the labor cost and I’ll get the alternator from Nissan I get a dealer discount because of my relatives with their used car dealership so I only buy Nissan parts I pay just as much or less than any auto parts online or stores
Old Jan 12, 2021 | 10:42 AM
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my daughter had the same problem with her 2011 max, I had to change the battery (it was new), I also changed her serpentine belt and the terminal connectors now, the car has been doing great on that end so far 7 months and good
Old Jan 12, 2021 | 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Corey Joy
I believe it has something to do with the alternator, I went to autozone yesterday they tested my battery it was 90% charged and the alternator was tested it was fine but once the lights on my dash came up it said alternator fail on their test so I don’t believe them 100% but I’m sure it’s something to do with it so if I get out of work early enough I’m changing the serpentine belt because mine is worn see what happens maybe it’s slipping causing power loss and I’ll go from there. I got a quote today for a alternator replacement with labor for $450-$500 and just labor starting at $225-$275 so after I change the belt and clean the connections if I still have the issue I’ll have it replaced for the labor cost and I’ll get the alternator from Nissan I get a dealer discount because of my relatives with their used car dealership so I only buy Nissan parts I pay just as much or less than any auto parts online or stores
that is a VERY CHEAP price. Be wary. A reputable shop removes the ac as per the fsm and this, with refridgerant reclamation is upwards of $1100.

Old Jan 16, 2021 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by LtLeary
that is a VERY CHEAP price. Be wary. A reputable shop removes the ac as per the fsm and this, with refridgerant reclamation is upwards of $1100.
it’s my good friends shop so I get a family price that’s all lol
Old Jan 16, 2021 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr.GeorgeGrumpyFontenot
my daughter had the same problem with her 2011 max, I had to change the battery (it was new), I also changed her serpentine belt and the terminal connectors now, the car has been doing great on that end so far 7 months and good
that’s good to know, I just bought a new serpentine belt I’m changing it tomorrow
Old Jan 21, 2021 | 06:23 PM
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I took the car apart Sunday and found the alternator connection was in pretty bad shape and the plug (pig tail) that goes into the alternator was pretty broken and fried looking so I had bought both after work Tuesday and had it all installed today for $300. Drove the car for a hour no issues anymore
Old Jan 22, 2021 | 03:29 PM
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Awesome. Thanks for reporting back.
Old Feb 16, 2021 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Corey Joy
I took the car apart Sunday and found the alternator connection was in pretty bad shape and the plug (pig tail) that goes into the alternator was pretty broken and fried looking so I had bought both after work Tuesday and had it all installed today for $300. Drove the car for a hour no issues anymore
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