2011 Nissan Max (No Mods and I do not drive heavy)
132,xxx (I bought the car used at 95k in 2018)
I don't know what services where done to the car before purchase by it had a clean car fax.
The other maintenance I've done on the car is air filter / spark plugs. I haven't had any other car issue as it runs smooth.

Story: I was driving home (I live in TX) on the freeway at about 60-70 (normal driving) and all of a sudden my car started to decelerated as if I was not on the gas. When I stepped on the gas pedal, only the RPM's shot up but the car continued to slow down. I panic and tried to manually shift the vehicle and there was no response. As I drifted to the get off the freeway, (now at about 30mph) the car would buck or shake when I accelerated, but only after reaching 2500RPMs and it seemed like car a rev limiter or something. Note: No CEL or anything on the dash. I came to an intersection on the service road and when the light turned green, the car drove normal until the RPMs reached 25 - 3000 in which the car was limited go beyond that point. I was able to get home safely that night, but the next morning, the car drove normal. I have not gotten back on the freeway because I think it was a heating issue, perhaps with my transmission. I have not experienced any issues with the other than this. Now at 132k miles, I have read about CVT maintenance with the drain/fill of the transmission oil. I plan on getting this service done ($200) but I have some questions...

Should I be worried about my transmission going out in the near future?
Did my car experience some sort of LIMP/SAFE mode?
Could my transmission have overheated to the oil not being changed in so long, if that is the case?

I appreciate any and all comments related to this matter. Thank you

 

All of the above you mentioned is possible, these CVTs are trial and error. Some of us have absolutely no issues and they last the life of the car, but a lot have been unfortunate and failed prematurely. It's not unheard of, so to start I would scan for codes, Even though the CEL isn't on it doesn't mean there isn't a code pending, I would also test the alternator as well, and if all that checks back with no issues then I would do a drain and fill of the fluid and change the filter. See if that resolves the problem, if it happens again then you will have to investigate further.

 

I appreciate the response. I'm heading the shop in a few and going to have them inspect the vehicle. I will also ask them to check the alternator as well. I'm thinking a 30-60 point inspection should do the trick and cover all grounds. I will keep you posted.

 

No problem at all, yes keep us posted.

 

** UPDATE **
Well, I just got off the phone with the dealership they indicated (with no CEL) mass airflow sensor (P0101 Mass Airflow Senor). Just a little back-story, I have had this issue arise in past. About a month after purchasing my car, the CEL came on and the code indicated P0101. I told the dealer and the just replaced the senor (IDK if it was factory) and that seemed to solve the problem. However, I don't know if they reset the ECM as I was just told the drive until the CEL reset on its own, which it did.

FAST-FORWARD TO TODAY:
The dealer wanted to clean the throttle body, intake, MAF sensor, and change the filter for $242 but I kindly declined because I plan on cleaning it myself. (Is there a DIY on the site???) I asked if the sensor should be replaced but they said no, it wasn't defective. My plan is to replace my current air filter (Auto Zone), clear MAF sensor with compressed-air from a can (same kind used to clean computer keyboards), and then clean the throttle plat with some throttle body cleaner. Hopefully, that does the trick. I'm so relieved nothing is wrong with my CVT.

 

CEL will illuminate with a limp mode condition. MAF malfunctions won't always throw a code. MAF sensors are way too underappreciated for as critical a component they are.

Check the entire intake system for leaks. You don't want any unmeasured air entering the intake manifold. That means all connections, hoses, clamps, etc. downstream from the MAF. If you're feeling generous (at your mileage, I would), an OEM MAF for 7th gens aren't that bad


A brand new OEM Hitachi for my '03 costs twice as much.

 

If the old one is failing, dirty, malfunctioning for whatever reason, a new MAF gets you; Running smooth again, better fuel economy, more power, a generally more efficient motor. A single sensor that's easy to replace and may only need one in the lifetime of the car gets you all that. People too often overlook MAF sensors.

 

Thanks guys... I really appreciate your help and/or advice.