2001 Maxima GLE, 152,000 miles.
Alternator: This was replaced around 4 years ago with a unit from Autozone (DuraLast if I recall correctly). Ironic name.

Last night, after getting gas, the brake light and battery (alternator) light came on solid. Drive home 3 miles or so no problem. About an hour later, went out and started the car and the lights were off, but there was a slight flickering of the battery light before it went off. This morning, lights did not come on and this time no flickering of the battery light. So reading through some posts on this forum, I most likely have an alternator that is about to take a dump. It could also be the battery which is from O'Reilly's with a 7/22 sticker on it (so only a little over 2 years old).

So before I replace the alternator (again), I assume I should check some cables/connections at the battery for any corrosion, etc.... Also check ground from battery negative cable. In addition, I should swing by the FLAPS and have them perform an alternator and battery check. Perhaps, I'll get lucky and not have to change the alternator if it is simply a bad battery cell.

 

almost guaranteed to be alt. failing when hot.

replace with hitachi, oe nissan, or denso.

 

Brake and Battery Light = Bad Alternator. How many miles did you put on the Duralast alternator? 4 years ~ 40K miles sounds about right for a non-OEM alternator, I am afraid.

Keep driving with a bad alternator, it will go into limp mode. Then you will have other problems like getting stranded.

 

It's the alternator. Final answer.

 

I'm guessing it's your alternator going bad but you need to get your battery tested as well.

majority of the time when your alternator is bad it's from it over working to recharge a battery that is going bad or is bad. a few times with my car the pulley came off the alternator. I used RTV on the pulley nut to keep it from coming off.

I'm running a new BBB Industries 125 amp alternator for a 95 Maxima, $86 on Rockauto. I took my Duralast Gold alternator back for a refund which was around $275

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=2412&jsn=462

 

I second that motion

 

3rd …

 

It is always good to verify that your alternator is indeed bad. The quickest way to do that is to measure the voltage output at the alternator connectors. That is the power source. It skips all the wiring and battery. If the voltage is low there, time to buy another alternator.

 

called junk o zone for a reason

 

What's the voltage across the battery terminals with the engine, lights and AC running?

 

The last time that my alternator died, the voltage from the alternator was 11. It was normally around 14 to charge the battery.

 

So today, I took a look under the hood since the battery (and brake) light had not come back on. Battery light was actually going off immediately like normal ever since it did it that one time.

Looking at the positive battery terminal, there was a mild amount of corrosion built up. I disconnected the battery and cleaned up (sandpaper) all of the contacts/connectors. Negative side of the battery did not have any corrosion. After hooking it all back up, I got 14.48v at the battery on my voltmeter when running. I then turned on the lights, radio, hazards, heater fan and was still getting 14.2V at the battery. After turning off the car, battery was giving my 13.1V.

So just like Kramer on Seinfeld seeing how far he could go with the gas tank needle near empty, I'm going to risk it and drive on mostly because changing the alternator is a PITA on this car. Perhaps, the light will come on again signalling impending doom. Perhaps the corrosion just needed cleanup.

I miss changing the alternator on my 1976 280Z. Thanks for all the input.