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Replacing factory speakers

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Old Feb 17, 2002 | 12:49 PM
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Replacing factory speakers

I know someone else has experienced the same problem I have when replacing the factory rear speakers. I replaced them and added an amp to the new speakers and wind up ruining my amp because the speakers were grounded to the chasis of the car. Is there a solution to this ?
Old Feb 17, 2002 | 12:52 PM
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Do you have the Bose audio system or the regular one?
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Old Feb 18, 2002 | 06:51 AM
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I had a regular one.
Originally posted by Vyrus
Do you have the Bose audio system or the regular one?
-Cyrus
Old Feb 18, 2002 | 06:56 AM
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Try posting this in the Audio section, it will benefit more there.
Old Feb 18, 2002 | 07:35 AM
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tiedyemaxima
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Don't put am amp on the new speakers. but that would also depend on what kinda head unit you have installed. If its a bose system every speaker has a amp on it. I ran into the same problem. I got a new head unit and i kept the factory speakers in(wrong move) Now every speaker in my car is double amped. I have to go and buy new speakers so it will sound tight.
Old Feb 18, 2002 | 12:17 PM
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Originally posted by tiedyemaxima
Don't put am amp on the new speakers. but that would also depend on what kinda head unit you have installed. If its a bose system every speaker has a amp on it. I ran into the same problem. I got a new head unit and i kept the factory speakers in(wrong move) Now every speaker in my car is double amped. I have to go and buy new speakers so it will sound tight.
but this wont happen if you dont have the bose system correct? i was lead to believe that replacing the headunit and leaving the stock speakers on a non-bose system is not a problem (other than the fact that the speakers sound like ***)...I just want to wait to replace the speakers for a bit, but changing the HU in a few days
Old Feb 18, 2002 | 02:10 PM
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i have the bose system and i replaced the speakers, all 4, only problem now is that my stereo and amps that came wit car (bose system) aren't strong enough to use my speakers to it's fullest capacity so i'm bout to get a new head unit...i'll Try to keep same amps until later, if that's possible, but i guess i'll figure that all out when i get the HU....
Old Feb 18, 2002 | 03:56 PM
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Re: Replacing factory speakers

Originally posted by blakkrob
I know someone else has experienced the same problem I have when replacing the factory rear speakers. I replaced them and added an amp to the new speakers and wind up ruining my amp ....
I did a major upgrade on the stereo in my 96 Maxima and burned up one amp in the process. Perhaps it's just the brand that matters?

I started with the non-bose 4 speaker tape system.

1st Setup
Awai mp3 head with rear channels driving new 120Wat rear deck Fosgate speakers (no shorting problems, but the amp on the Awai sucks)
Sony 4 channel 800 total driving fosgate components up front and bridged to run the 12" Sony Xplode cabinet in the trunk or back seat.

The Sony 4 channel died. I had the Best Buy folks doing the install and component selection since I have a history of frying things. I think the Sony wasn't really meant to be bridged, but it overheated spat and sputtered for about three days before it died reproducing a Smashing Pumpkins tune.

2nd setup
For the rear deck and front compenent speakers I got a Fosgate 400Watt cheater (it's birth certificate was 548).
For the sub I got a Sony 1000W mono amp (builtin crossover is sweet).

It sounds great and I enjoy as loud as it will go almost everyday, but there was a hitch to keep in mind that might play somehow into the shorting problem that you had:

Problem
The ignition power that runs to the antenna is what the Best Buy installers used to remote turn on the amps. However, once I added the 4 channel Fosgate to the system (which is connected to the rear deck speakers), the antenna would drop and the Sony would cut off.

My workaround
When I isolated the remote power on the Fosgate with a relay from Radio Shack it worked perfect. Up until I read your problem, I had assumed that the remote curcuit just wasn't powerful enough to cut the Fosgate on, I guess the rear speaker shorting deal might have contributed.

Seems to me that the first step is to buy an amp that will handle a few shorts and sputters without smoking (ie. get a Fosgate - It'll last longer than our Maximas likely - and that's a statement .

The second I would do is simply insulate the rear deck speakers. They put the black tar foil stuff on my rear deck and enclosing my trunk - it dampened the vibrations immensely and kept my inside SPL up while the outside listens in relative silence.

Three, if you might break it, buy if from Best Buy with the extended warranty. You can't beat a three year insurance policy on blowing your sub for 15 bucks.. Mine has already payed for itself And it takes less time to walk in and get a replacement than it does to buy new - except the week after Christmas of course...

Oh and given a choice get a 15 sub if you don't have already. I'm a little dissapointed with the 12..

Hope this helps, I can lookup the Radio Shack part number on the relay if you need... Get atleast a 10 AMP 12Volt relay I blew a 2.5 AMP

l8r
Joey
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