Did all of you know that if you put a plug in your EGR valve reader (where the hose conects to the EGR valve) you can get your intake temperatures down 50 degrees plus?!!!
You will get a check engine light but this occurs when you do this. To disable the check engine light when doing this you may have to upgrade your ECU or ask specifically to have that programmed into the ECU.
This DOES NOT have any compromise on performance or effieciency. This is a fail-safe mod that actually works.
If sceptical, try it for an hour and I assure you that you will be impressed!

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it is a performance mod in theory.....colder air = faaaaaster ......

 

Very true. If anyone decides to do this ( i have and notice a considerable amount of performance) be sure to UNdo this when/if getting an IM test.
Might not pass if just looked over. Anyways, hope you'all like this tidbit of real power.

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i am

 

I just found out that I left my Haynes manual at a friend's house. Can you explain where the ERG valve is please.

 

i would rather go to the salvage yard, pull a volvo intercooler and perform a custom fit, than screw with the check engine light, ecu and emissions inspection. Just my thoughts.

 

Wont an intercooler create LAG?? Also what do you think the HP gains would be?

 

Not quite sure why you think an intercooler is going to create lag, but my guess is no. it is not restricting the flow, rather it is cooling the intake air to increase hp. not quite sure on the hp increase, but i can guarentee you that an intercooler would dramatically inhence performance during hot, humid summer days.

 

Hm.....well how much do you think a junkyard would let an intercooler go for? and if you actually do this, you better do a write up, cuz this sounds like a good mod....

 

my bro did this to his 95 se S/C. the intercooloer ran $40 bucks, not sure on tubing. if you want i can get some definte specifics from him. let me know....

 

I don't think you would need an intercooler unless you're boosted.

 

The EGR valve looks like a vehicle horn but its up around the firewall. There should be only one vacuum line going into the EGR, the EGR is usually black in color.

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This topic was talked about alot about this time last summer. The EGR valve also does some other important things other then clean up emissions. If I remeber right the EGR is only open at low rpms, so at full throtle it doesnt increase intake temps. At low rpms the gass that goes in to the intake/combustion chamber is already has all its oxygen consumed. It displaces some of the available volume in the cyilinder letting less air in, effectivly reducing the size of the chamber. It also lowerd combustion temps. So it helps prevent knock when the motor is cranking out a lot of TQ at low rpms. This is just what I think I remeber so if I'm worong, sorry.

 

ptatohed may have a strong point on the boost. ramming moist air into the engine does nothing for performance and this is more than likely why my bro installed the intercooler on his S/C SE.

 

what kind of gains are u gettin from sompin like this, i wanna know if its worth doing.

 

if you are talking about the i/c, i don't know the answer to your question. it would be most beneficial to those that live in humid states. ? Does your car perform better when the air is cold or when the air is hot and moist. my guess is cold. also as stated in a previous post, the biggest advantage would more than likely come to those with boost.

 

i meant with this egr thing, how significant are the gains with this

 

i can't imagine that this will help cool intake air. like fsumax stated, the valve closes at high speeds. so the ambient air is not going to be heated up by any exhaust gases. I'll doulbe check on this and get back to you if the valve is open at increased speeds.

 

I don't think this would help because the air temp comes from the sensor in the intake for one and even if it did think it was getting colder air it really wouldn't be so combustion wouldnt change, the car mght simply inject more gas which would cause you to run rich if I'm right, which slows you down a little. On the i/c subject I was curious that if you attachd it to your intake you would have to same effect as a front mount cai but maybe I have the wrong idea there, what exactly were you talking about?

 

The EGR only opens at low loads and low RPM. Never at WOT. Blocking the EGR will get you no HP.

Adding an I/C to an unboosted car will cost you HP. It can only cool the air to ambient temp (this is assuming a 100% efficient I/C, which doesnt exist). If your intake air is already at ambient temp, the I/C does nothing. It will only restrict your airflow.

 

this may be true for an air to air i/c, but what about liquid cooled.

 

The only way an air to water I/C can get below ambient is if you put ice water in it.

The cost and complexity if such a cooler on an NA car is not worth any gains. You would probably not gain or lose any HP form this. The cooler air would gain HP, but the restriction of the intake would lose it...

The simplest andcheapest way to dramatically reduce intake temps is nitrous oxide injection.

 

I have done this EGR deal and I notice a lot of response all throught the power band. I was impressed so I thought I'd post it. As for performance gains, I'd say it has given me maybe 5 hp+. It feels likt it anyways. This doesn't hurt your engine in any way either, so don't worry about that.

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It does hurt your engine. It is illegal. It gives you no power. Strp your car on a dyno and come back with hard numbers to prove the gains.

 

I'm just curious... If you claim it gives you 5hp+, I'd like to know if/when you've had your "Butt Dyno" certified...

 

Its funny how most people are ignorant to the fact that this is real. As for my "butt dyno," where I live I have no dynos available. Plus, if you haven't tried this, how can you makes statements that have no credit? Now that's pretty funny.

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Well it makes more sense that there is a majority of us that are mechanicly educated(yes i know i dont sound it always) that can explain how this physically does nothing to your car, except make it illegal. Now I find that better evidence that your butt-dyno.

 

I can "makes" statements about this, because I've tried all the MULM's "Maxima Urban Legends Mods," hoping to get an extra HP or two out of my Maxima. Let me tell you something I learned... First of all, if your a$$ can feel 5hp, you've got a "gift..." Second of all, Screwing up a vital part of your emissions system to gain 5hp that you'll never feel is not worth the risk...

There's my 2 Cents of ignorance. And I CAN comment because I was a newbie once myself and have tried alot of these so-called performance mods only to revert back to factory settings. My advice, stick with the tried-and-true mods that everyone knows will increase your cars performance...


I think we need a FAQ section about Worthless mods...

 

I have been reading up on the EGR for the last couple of hours. Here are my findings so far:
The EGR valve remains closed during the following situations
1. Low engine coolant temp
2. Engine Starting
3. Engine Stopped
4. Engine Idling
5. Excessively high engine coolant temp
6. Mass air flow sensor malfunction

I have not been able to find any other situations where the EGR remains closed.
One of the tests to check that the valve opens is to run the engine between 2 and 4k rpm.

I remain neutral until I check it out further. (this just means I am sitting on the fence)

Found this in the net.

1. E.G.R. lowers combustion temperature which lowers oxides of nitrogen pollution.
2. E.G.R. is not used at idle. (Would cause very rough or no idle at all.)
3. E.G.R. is not used on cold engines in most cars. (Would cause poor, cold driveablity.)
4. E.G.R. is not used at wide open throttle. (Would cause loss of power.)

 

I feel there is great importance to an i/c on a boosted car. yeah, flow may be restriced thats why you pulley down to a 287. this increases the boost. the increased friction from the turbine will increase air temp, therefore, the i/c (even air to air) will bring back lost hp due to increased air temp.

btw, i saw a refrigrant cooled Grand National a couple years ago. it was fast as hell, but that style of i/c is expensive as hell..

 

Nice find JIME...to clarify, the egr vavle allows inert gases back into the intake plenum which dilutes the gases already present (from the atmosphere). this reduces the amount of molecules that are able to collide and form NOx. As a result, less energy is given off and the combustion temp decreases thereby decreasing power at the expense of a cleaner environment. Also, deactivating the egr by removing the vacuum line is a bad idea because this causes increased engine temps which could eventual result in engine failure.

 

You lack any credibility. What everyone has posted about the EGR is correct. No gains.


Dave

 

Did you read my post? I know ICs are great on boosted cars. I specifically said NA cars.

NA means naturally aspirated, ie. no boost.

 

Sorry for any confusion regarding this newbie tidbit...I am new to the forum and I guess I will search before I tell the forum about what is already known. Thanks.

 

Good plan.

And no, you're not "Faster than mine!"

 

Probably not but some day...