First, lets assume I have a simple n20 kit installed in my maxima. Now, I am driving around half the day and I suddenly get the urge to spray. Now, if I had a Zex kit or other simple n20 kits, what would I have to do to spray?

I know Zex kits have an activation switch, but won't I have to open the bottle first before I use it? I mean, if I want to just drive normal all day and maybe want to suddenly spray once, what would I have to do to be ready at any time?

I'm sorry about this dumb question, but I thought about this the other day and I hope someone could enlighten me. Thanks in advance.

 

I have been doing a crap load of research about nitrous within the past few weeks. And it's looking more and more feasible everyday I research it.

About my little street scenario, I have come to the conclusion that the bottle should remain closed at all times unless you are going to spray that minute. Is this right? So, how about installing the bottle in the trunk so that I can reach it from within the car through the middle back seat armrest? There will be no need for a bottle opener then. OR I can put the 10lb bottle in my front passenger seat. Just flip the seat up and open the valve.

I am seriously considering Zex kits since that seems to be the easiest, simplest, safest, cheapest, and most idiot proof nitrous kit out there. There is so much stuff to learn before getting nitrous. I really want to take care of my car.

The mods I have so far are: Intake, Y-pipe, UDP, VB, and Advanced Timing. Will I have to lower my timing back to stock or below stock for a simple 50 shot? Will I need to get rid of my platinum plugs? If anybody thinks it's a safe idea, then I'll probably do it.

Also, what about spraying while my automatic tranny is shifting? This sounds like there will be a lot of strain on my tranny. Plus, I am NA right now and I am losing traction in the 1-2 shift and sometimes I have to steer the car back into the center of the lane when 2nd gear slams in place. With spraying while shifting, I will lose ALOT of traction. What do yall think? Do you think a window switch is the only way to avoid this?

Do you think I need a window switch just for the sake of my tranny? You know, so I won't spray during the shift.

Plus, those of you with Zex kits, when you stomp on the gas, does the nitrous spray immediately at WOT and your tires break lose everytime? How do you avoid this without a window switch and still get a good 60' time?

Thanks for taking the time to read all my newbie questions. I hope you can answer them now. TIA

 

I like the fact that you are asking and being specific...I will offer my 2 cents...I had to learn once too.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Aaron92SE [B]The bottle should remain closed at all times unless you are going to spray that minute. Is this right? [B]

YES for safety and stability of pressure throughout the dat and to prevent seepage if a fitting works it's way loose after time...keep it shut until you believe the time is appropriate for use.

[B]So, how about installing the bottle in the trunk so that I can reach it from within the car through the middle back seat armrest? [B]

If you know Yoga and can do it fine

[B]I can put the 10lb bottle in my front passenger seat. Just flip the seat up and open the valve. [B]

Buy a smaller bottle and mount it inside the cabin than a 10 lb...too bulky and more safe in trunk unless you bolt it down and use a blow-off valve...perhaps the "Sneeky Pete" 10 ounce bottle is nice to stash away for use then.

[B]Will I have to lower my timing back to stock or below stock for a simple 50 shot?[B]

Consult the threads about advanced timing on this cause I do not know.

[B]Will I need to get rid of my platinum plugs? [B]

You can run them but it is cheaper for coppers cause nitrous and colder plugs require more checkage and need atention...if you present a problem, platinums will not help get past and get expensive after replacing a couple times

[B]What about spraying while my automatic tranny is shifting? [B]

I know window switches work for preventing excessive spray during lower rpms and the fuel pressure in both the NOS and Zex kits are taken into account...I do not worry about the spray between shifts as the rpessure changes and I cannot personally say for the NOS but I hear a change in spray between shifts, lower in fact.

[B]Do you think a window switch is the only way to avoid this? Do you think I need a window switch just for the sake of my tranny? [B]

Perhaps...but call Zex tech line for assistance to ask ahead of time if they feel it is necessary.

[B]Those of you with Zex kits, when you stomp on the gas, does the nitrous spray immediately at WOT and your tires break lose everytime? How do you avoid this without a window switch and still get a good 60' time? [B]

This can happen and it is not good to spray below 3000 rpms and do not spray with engine off as damage can occur to different parts. You can roast the tires and I have a couple times at a stop...but I wait until the rpms are at the right amount above 3000 and the arming switch is already thrown and my activation button is waiting to be pressed for the run at the right speed.

 

buy a remote bottle opener. i prefer the NX one. it is designed better than the rest.

 

Buy a smaller bottle and mount it inside the cabin than a 10 lb...too bulky and more safe in trunk unless you bolt it down and use a blow-off valve...perhaps the "Sneeky Pete" 10 ounce bottle is nice to stash away for use then.

Yeah, but I heard I would not be satified with the tiny size bottle since it's used up with about 2-3 seconds. So, I am thinking about mounting the 10lb bottle in my trunk. I've heard of one guy mounting it and uses his long arms to reach the trunk.

but I wait until the rpms are at the right amount above 3000 and the arming switch is already thrown and my activation button is waiting to be pressed for the run at the right speed.

Whoa! So you are saying that with Zex kits, there is an arming button and an activation button? I thought it was just a single arming button and it's computer control from then on.

BTW, thanks a lot for taking the time to answer my newbie questions. Before I get nitrous, I will know everything there is to know. I want to have the know how to make it the safest nitrous system around. I don't want to go into this mod blind.

 

Depending on your jet settings the smaller bottles (Search for a more suitable one than the 10 lb for in the car) can do what I said, quick runs and not bulky or inhibitive from opening on the fly.

And you have the option with Zex to just flip the switch when you want to spray at WOT or you can wire in-line a momentary switch like I have...

I used to just flick the switch but got a harness that does not allow for easy reach to the toggle where I hid it.

So the remote switch now for my purge valve and activation are at my fingertips anytime I drive.

 

i see some of your questions are answered but i'll vouch for some of them.
first,
50 shot-no need to reatard your timing
auto tranny-it's fine to spray during shifts done it for awhile. just don't use a big shot or you,ll put a lot of wear on it. max and alti tranny iv'e heard are good for up to 75 or so hp with nitrous atleast
bottle opener will work for your problem like said already. i have one.
colder copper plugs are a must. may i suggest ngks one to two steps colder than stock
I do have a traction problem with spraying. and i don't even spray off the line. its a toss up if my tires sometimes catch or not. may i reccomend drag radial or slicks for track use. with slicks and spraying right off the line will make a big improvement but for streets drag radials

 

good luck

 

Listen fellows, good info for the most part but quite a bit of wrong info here. Let me give you guys a little info:
1. The system is activated by a simple flick of a switch and a WOT switch. The system is ready when you are as long as you have the bottle open and full.
2. The scenario of Shaq like arms or F&F mounting under the pass. seat is really not realistic. You will not be able to safely mount the bottle where you will safely reach it while driving. It's just not possible. The under seat mounting of F&F fame is also a good movie idea but not realistic because you would need substantially smaller bottle (sneeky pete's) and they don't hold much juice. Honestly, just mount it in the trunk as it's supposed to and either get an opener or just walk back and open when needed.
3. Rpm switches are for 5spd not autos. Autos do not need them.
4. Ignition can only be adjusted in our cars one way....with an additional device called J&S. It is expensive, complicated, and not for the beginner. Colder plugs are used as a "ghetto" way to do the same thing...combat detonation. 1 step colder/50hp is the rule of thumb. Copper is used for 2 main reasons: wide ground strap is more capable and resistant than is the narrow one in the plats/iridiums; and finally expense.
5. Traction is not going to be an issue with a 50 shot unless you jump in it off the line, which is not a good idea no matter what shot you use. You will be running dangerously lean to start, you place unnecessary strees on the drivetrain, and you defeat the purpose of going fast.

I could go on for days, but I will answer single questions at a time so the responses don't get so long next time.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by JAIMECBR900
2. The scenario of Shaq like arms or F&F mounting under the pass. seat is really not realistic. You will not be able to safely mount the bottle where you will safely reach it while driving. It's just not possible.

So, if I mount it in the trunk in between the arm rest... you don't think that is possible? Why not? I want to be able to access the bottle while I am in the cabin.

3. Rpm switches are for 5spd not autos. Autos do not need them.

Why are they not for autos? I thought they just turn on at a certain rpm and turn off at a certain rpm.

4. Ignition can only be adjusted in our cars one way....with an additional device called J&S.

My ignition timing can easily be adjust by the crank angle sensor. What do you mean?

5. Traction is not going to be an issue with a 50 shot unless you jump in it off the line, which is not a good idea no matter what shot you use. You will be running dangerously lean to start, you place unnecessary strees on the drivetrain, and you defeat the purpose of going fast.

And are you saying that going WOT off the line is a bad idea with n20? I am just trying to determine what equipment I need in order to get a safe 50 shot at the track.

BTW, thanks for helping me out.

 

its gonna be hard to reach. trust me unless you want half of the bottle sticking out of your rear center armrest. its a strain reaching back there. just sit in the driver seat imagine the bottle there and try to act as if you are trying to open the bottle. remember unless you want half the bottle sticking out you will be pretty much reaching into your trunk from the drivers seat. what a PITA..

no idea why its only for 5spd. i never heard that. i heard it would be better for a 5spd but not a must have unless you are power shifting when you go shift gears and the nitrous is still flowing into the motor you risk hitting fuel cuttoff and boom.


i did not know about that ignition timing trick. but if it is true why has noone ever done it sucessfully to retard timing. that would save people a lot of money wouldn't you think. timing retard devise would be on ebig waste of money right???

hitting nitrous out of the gate you might lose traction.


pssssst.... i am selling my kit for $600 shippied check the forsales forum comes with all the toys you could want..

 

Alright here we go bare with me folks.

1. Mounting the bottle between the arm rest can realistically work BUT im 6'4 and i cant reach from the drivers seat between the armrest to the trunk without looking dumb.

i have also seen a few people mount the bottle directly behind the drivers seat on the floor...this will work BUT it will be inconvient if youre driving people around in your car and i wouldnt want a hazardous gas in the cabin with me.

Finally, buying a remote bottle opener is the best bet because you can open the bottle just by flipping a switch mounted somewhere close to you... they are pricey at around 200 bucks but if your going to do something do it right.

2. RPM switches are idealy used for 5spds only because you dont want to take the risk of MIS SHIFTING while the nitrous is still spraying this will cause your engine to go bye bye. Hence why autos dont have this problem.

3. If your planning to run just a 50 shot ignition retard is needed. Im not quite sure on how 3rd gens operate but you cant adjust 4th gens without a J&S

4. There is no use to activate your nitrous system off the line your tires will spin and do nothing but waste nitrous and give you terrible 60ft's. Also the chance of engine problems will increase if you squeeze to early. The rule of thumb with maximas and nitrous is to activate the system at 3k rpm and shut it down at 6k rpm (5pd) hence why you would need a window switch..autos wont have this problem but you still wouldnt want to activate it below 3k rpm. Zex uses a toggle switch with a red cover once you are at WOT and flip the switch the nitrous will spray. When you first launch dont flip the switch until your at atleast 3k rpm.

Hope this helps
Jon

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Battle Max
1. Mounting the bottle between the arm rest can realistically work BUT im 6'4 and i cant reach from the drivers seat between the armrest to the trunk without looking dumb.

OK, I will just get a remote opener when I am ready. But in the meantime, I will just not operate n20 on the street and save it only for the track.

i have also seen a few people mount the bottle directly behind the drivers seat on the floor...this will work BUT it will be inconvient if youre driving people around in your car and i wouldnt want a hazardous gas in the cabin with me.

I'm not gonna do that. I like having passengers in the backseat and plus, like you said... I don't want hazardous gas in my cabin. LOL Reminds me of Chris Farley and David Spade... "ROODS!! ROWADS!!"

2. RPM switches are idealy used for 5spds only because you dont want to take the risk of MIS SHIFTING while the nitrous is still spraying this will cause your engine to go bye bye. Hence why autos dont have this problem.

Ok, so you think it's ok for an automatic to spray WHILE shifting? It seems like it will just break my tires lose MUCH greater than they already are. I am already having torque steer problems in my 1-2 shift and I am just running 15.20's NA. Just imagine what it will be like while spaying a 50 shot. Also, it seems like it will be a lot of stress on the weak auto tranny if I spray while it shifts. What do you think?

3. If your planning to run just a 50 shot ignition retard is needed. Im not quite sure on how 3rd gens operate but you cant adjust 4th gens without a J&S

VG30E motors can easily change ignition timing with the distributor like any other car. My engine.. VE30DE... timing can easily be changed by turning the crank angle sensor. Stock timing is 15*BTDC, I have it set at 20 right now. So, you think my timing needs to be retarded below the stock timing of 15* if I want have a 50 shot?

I don't know how the 4th gen is setup, but it's closely related to the VE. So, I just thought that you could turn your crank angle sensor too. Timing Retardation is not a problem for my motor though. Is that even a word? Retardation? lol

4. There is no use to activate your nitrous system off the line your tires will spin and do nothing but waste nitrous and give you terrible 60ft's. Also the chance of engine problems will increase if you squeeze to early. The rule of thumb with maximas and nitrous is to activate the system at 3k rpm and shut it down at 6k rpm (5pd) hence why you would need a window switch..autos wont have this problem but you still wouldnt want to activate it below 3k rpm. Zex uses a toggle switch with a red cover once you are at WOT and flip the switch the nitrous will spray. When you first launch dont flip the switch until your at atleast 3k rpm.

OHHHH!! So the normal Zex kit DOES have a switch to spray the nitrous? Man, i have been told so many different things. I thought that in Zex kits, the n20 is sprayed automatically by the Zex computer at WOT. So, I thought as soon as I stomp on the gas, the nitrous will automatically spray and break my tires lose when i don't want it to.

Why is everyone telling me it sprays by itself without any switches needed beside the arming switch? Thanks a lot for your help.

Hope this helps
Jon

Yes it does, thanks.

 

I'm going to add some more stuff:

Mounting the bottle inside the cabin of the car is dangerous for 2 main reasons. First, it becomes a very heavy and deadly missile in the case of an accident. Two, in case of leak, you will become disoriented/pass out if you inhale enough of it (eventhough it stinks to high heaven due to the sulfur content) since it's the same kind of gas used to put you under at the dentist office. Just don't do it. Buy a remote opener or walk around and turn the valve. Besides, I don't know what state you're in, but many states now outlaw the transportation of N2O w/o proper permits on the street.

Window switches are used in 5spds and not autos because of battle max said.

A 50 shot on an auto will not cause movie-like traction problems, except if you spray off the line (where all you will do is spin and go nowhere and tear up your car in the process). 50 shot is good for adding some good performance, but it's not like a 100-125 shot.

Ignition retard is not needed for a 50 shot. You should run 1 step colder plugs and that's it. If you want to retard ignition, and you can, it's fine but not completely needed yet. If yo step up to 70+ shot, then you will need to consider it. At those levels you will also need bigger fuel pump, gauges, plugs, etc.

Reason for not spraying below 2500 is due to two main reasons: Basic N2O systems use fuel pressure risers of some kind. All that means is that it utilizes a part to raise "stock" fuel pressure w/o using an adj. FPR. If you spray before the fuel pressure rises high enough, you will be running dangerously lean. The system is designed to be engaged @WOT @ 2500+ rpms. Second reason is because as battle max said, it is a waste of N2O since all you do if you spray off the line from a standstill is spin and probably go and bounce off the limiter, which again is a big no no.

Most basic systems, regardless of brand, are designed to be installed relatively easily and used with stock parts. Once you step up to higher power levels, you will need to add several different additional parts in order to keep up with the elevated power levels. You can over-kill a basic system, but why would you defeat the purpose? If you want to do that, why not just step up to higher power levels from the beginning?

 

gosh this is the kind of stuff that I really enjoy about the .ORG...

 

You're kinda right, kinda wrong. All N2O systems, regardless of brand, will some kind of mechanism that will "sense" when you reach WOT and in turn allow the solenoid(s) to open and spray.

For example, NOS systems use a microswitch which is mounted on our TB and is "tripped" when the linkage hits it @WOT. It then completes the circuit (as long as the main activation switch in the car is on) and lets the solenoids open to introduce N2O into the engine. Some of the other manufactures use voltage readings of the TPS to determine WOT and do the same thing. Finally, you could also have the old F&F manual switch, which just basically takes the place of the microswitch/TPS sensor and makes you tell it when to spray, but it is usually not the best idea.

To finally answer your question...yes the system works all by itself when it reaches WOT, but now you know how and why.

 

OK, now that I know that Zex kits will spray as soon as I stomp on the gas... What is Battle Max talking about?


Also, if the Zex kit will spray at WOT everytime time I step on the gas, then what will prevent it from dangerously spraying below 3K? My tires will break lose and I will be running very lean. Is this how Zex kits work?

 

you have to turn the kit on first. but yes *** soon as you flip that switch for the zex kit you start spraying assuming you are at WOT. "battlemax" is telling you to flip the switch at 3k so you are moving already to reduce your chances of breaking traction when the nitrous hits. if you sit at the line with the system armed the minute you launch assuming you launch at WOT the system will kick in and start spraying. if you break traction of the line you will get ****ty times.


[/i]


Also, if the Zex kit will spray at WOT everytime time I step on the gas, then what will prevent it from dangerously spraying below 3K? My tires will break lose and I will be running very lean. Is this how Zex kits work? [/QUOTE]

you can

1. launch at 3/4 throttle and after 3k go to WOT.

2.flip the activation switch right before you hit 3k.

3.buy a window switch wire it in line with the arming switch.
set the window switch to turn on at 3k and shut off at 6k.
search: MSD window switch for this

4.wire a small momentary push botton swith close to the steering wheel and push the button when you want to squeeze. release button when you don't want to squeeze.

 

Yeah, I am a track *****, so I will be getting this kit to put a smile on my face at the track. I appreciate your help. I think I got it now.. finally. lol

Let me know if I am right on this one, for the Zex kit, there is an arming switch that will turn on the system, but it won't spray unless the spraying switch is on, I'm at WOT, and of course the bottle is open. Is this right? Thanks again.

 

Ok, there is only ONE switch with the basic Zex setup. So, yall were talking about flipping the arming switch when I am above 3K. AHHH! Is this right? Thanks.

 

Okay im going to explain this as easy as i can.

Zex comes with one Arming Switch- toggle switch with red cover.

Lets say i was at the christmas tree and i launch and get on my way, once im around 3k rpm i flip ON the arming switch the nitrous will spray. You can turn on the bottle before you even activate the arming switch. The way zex tells you will work also but your 60ft times will suffer by doing this.

Here is some advise once you first install your zex kit DO NOT screw the nitrous line into the bottle. Turn your key to the on position without starting the car, push down the pedal to go WOT then flip on your arming switch. Once you flip the arming switch on you should immediatley hear a "click" from the solenoids in the Nitrous Management Unit. To sum up what i just said if your car was running and you where already at WOT once you flip the arming switch the
nitrous will spray (hence why the solenoid clicks).

thanks
Jon

 

Sweet! Thanks Jon. It only took me only like 2 pages of posting for me to understand. There is a lot of good info in this thread. One last question that I am a little confused on... What is the Zex kit number that we should install in our Maximas? I have heard just to get the regular Nissan/Datsun kit. Also, I've heard to get the V6 Accord kit.

Which kits will work correctly on our Maximas? I'm assuming a few different kits would work just fine.

 

Man just have the bottle loose and tell your girl friend to hold onto it when your driving.