Runing N/A, And Juicing Questions...
#1
Runing N/A, And Juicing Questions...
Lets say i am runing the NOS 5124 kit with a 70 shot.
if i go one step colder plugs, and upgrade my fuel pump... will my car run like crap N/A?
also, what else is needed for me to run a 70 shot without worrying that my engine is being damaged? (not talkin about bottle acessary's etc) Do i need a window switch? usually i just flip my arming switch, and when i go WOT it will spray...
if i go one step colder plugs, and upgrade my fuel pump... will my car run like crap N/A?
also, what else is needed for me to run a 70 shot without worrying that my engine is being damaged? (not talkin about bottle acessary's etc) Do i need a window switch? usually i just flip my arming switch, and when i go WOT it will spray...
#2
I dynoed with 1 step colder, reduced gap NGK copper plugs and also the Walbro fuel pump (but I also had a fuel press. regulator to lower the N/A WOT fuel press. back to 43psi) Compared to a prior dyno (stock plugs and stock pump), I lost some power at all RPMS with peak power decreasing by -3.6hp & -9.2tq.
With a high flow pump and no FPR, I'd run rich and probably lose more power not to mention MPG.
I'd say colder plugs and upgraded fuel pump is all that's needed for a safe 70 shot...a RPM switch will guarantee that you won't spray if you hit the fuel cut (esp. if you are manual and like to "power shift") or if you are auto, you won't be spraying when the tranny shifts. Also if you go WOT and spray right off the line, you may get too much wheel spin. Setting the RPM switch higher will help. I have mine set to activate at 3400 and shut off at 6300.
With a high flow pump and no FPR, I'd run rich and probably lose more power not to mention MPG.
I'd say colder plugs and upgraded fuel pump is all that's needed for a safe 70 shot...a RPM switch will guarantee that you won't spray if you hit the fuel cut (esp. if you are manual and like to "power shift") or if you are auto, you won't be spraying when the tranny shifts. Also if you go WOT and spray right off the line, you may get too much wheel spin. Setting the RPM switch higher will help. I have mine set to activate at 3400 and shut off at 6300.
#3
Originally posted by CalsonicSE
I dynoed with 1 step colder, reduced gap NGK copper plugs and also the Walbro fuel pump (but I also had a fuel press. regulator to lower the N/A WOT fuel press. back to 43psi) Compared to a prior dyno (stock plugs and stock pump), I lost some power at all RPMS with peak power decreasing by -3.6hp & -9.2tq.
With a high flow pump and no FPR, I'd run rich and probably lose more power not to mention MPG.
I'd say colder plugs and upgraded fuel pump is all that's needed for a safe 70 shot...a RPM switch will guarantee that you won't spray if you hit the fuel cut (esp. if you are manual and like to "power shift") or if you are auto, you won't be spraying when the tranny shifts. Also if you go WOT and spray right off the line, you may get too much wheel spin. Setting the RPM switch higher will help. I have mine set to activate at 3400 and shut off at 6300.
I dynoed with 1 step colder, reduced gap NGK copper plugs and also the Walbro fuel pump (but I also had a fuel press. regulator to lower the N/A WOT fuel press. back to 43psi) Compared to a prior dyno (stock plugs and stock pump), I lost some power at all RPMS with peak power decreasing by -3.6hp & -9.2tq.
With a high flow pump and no FPR, I'd run rich and probably lose more power not to mention MPG.
I'd say colder plugs and upgraded fuel pump is all that's needed for a safe 70 shot...a RPM switch will guarantee that you won't spray if you hit the fuel cut (esp. if you are manual and like to "power shift") or if you are auto, you won't be spraying when the tranny shifts. Also if you go WOT and spray right off the line, you may get too much wheel spin. Setting the RPM switch higher will help. I have mine set to activate at 3400 and shut off at 6300.
#4
I agree with calsonic. You will need upgraded pump, colder plugs, gauges, an adj. FPR won't hurt, bottle acc. will go a long way too.
Your power loss will be minimal. You won't really feel it. I have 2 step colder plugs and drive the car everyday, I don't notice much as far as power loss once the car warms up. It does make it a little more cold nature in the morning, until it warms up a little then it runs normal.
70 shot is a lot of fun, but you have to tune it right to get the most out of it. It's also the beginning of a double edge sword. This is usually the power level that starts to put you on the finer edge where there is less room for error and also starts to get you really hooked and wanting more.
Enjoy.
Your power loss will be minimal. You won't really feel it. I have 2 step colder plugs and drive the car everyday, I don't notice much as far as power loss once the car warms up. It does make it a little more cold nature in the morning, until it warms up a little then it runs normal.
70 shot is a lot of fun, but you have to tune it right to get the most out of it. It's also the beginning of a double edge sword. This is usually the power level that starts to put you on the finer edge where there is less room for error and also starts to get you really hooked and wanting more.
Enjoy.
#5
Originally posted by JAIMECBR900
You will need upgraded pump, colder plugs
You will need upgraded pump, colder plugs
This is usually the power level that starts to put you on the finer edge where there is less room for error and also starts to get you really hooked and wanting more.
Enjoy.
Enjoy.
#6
Originally posted by ToYLeT902
will the fuel economy become noticably worse?
i need more bolt-ons first
will the fuel economy become noticably worse?
i need more bolt-ons first
It's a good idea to have some complimentary bolt-ons before you try and step up to the 70+ shot. You can hypothetically run a 100 shot w/o anything but a bigger pump, but you will probably blow something on your first run. It's better to er on the side of caution than crazy.
Trust me though, when you finally have your system close to optimal tuning and you run anything 70 and up.....you will have a hard time wiping the grin off your face for a while.
#7
Originally posted by JAIMECBR900
It's a good idea to have some complimentary bolt-ons before you try and step up to the 70+ shot. You can hypothetically run a 100 shot w/o anything but a bigger pump, but you will probably blow something on your first run. It's better to er on the side of caution than crazy.
It's a good idea to have some complimentary bolt-ons before you try and step up to the 70+ shot. You can hypothetically run a 100 shot w/o anything but a bigger pump, but you will probably blow something on your first run. It's better to er on the side of caution than crazy.
#8
I'm also thinking about making the jump to N20. 2 questions:
1) What "shot" comes standard with the 5124 kit?
2) If 70 shot is standard for the 5124 kit and you guys say that it's a necessity to run an upgraded fuel pump and 1 step colder plugs, why does the 5124 manual recommend just using both the stock plugs and stock pump?
thanks
1) What "shot" comes standard with the 5124 kit?
2) If 70 shot is standard for the 5124 kit and you guys say that it's a necessity to run an upgraded fuel pump and 1 step colder plugs, why does the 5124 manual recommend just using both the stock plugs and stock pump?
thanks
#10
Originally posted by DCmax
I'm also thinking about making the jump to N20. 2 questions:
1) What "shot" comes standard with the 5124 kit?
2) If 70 shot is standard for the 5124 kit and you guys say that it's a necessity to run an upgraded fuel pump and 1 step colder plugs, why does the 5124 manual recommend just using both the stock plugs and stock pump?
thanks
I'm also thinking about making the jump to N20. 2 questions:
1) What "shot" comes standard with the 5124 kit?
2) If 70 shot is standard for the 5124 kit and you guys say that it's a necessity to run an upgraded fuel pump and 1 step colder plugs, why does the 5124 manual recommend just using both the stock plugs and stock pump?
thanks
The manual may recommend that, but they also don't take into consideration that we cannot retard our ignition. As for the pump, the reason for bigger one as you step up is due to volume. As the shot size goes up, the demand for fuel gets exponentially greater. The stock pump will support the lower shots, but once it runs out...it runs out and you will run dangerously lean.
#11
Originally posted by JAIMECBR900
The 5124 comes with 4 different jet sizes which can be configured several different ways to achieve the desired "shot".
The manual may recommend that, but they also don't take into consideration that we cannot retard our ignition. As for the pump, the reason for bigger one as you step up is due to volume. As the shot size goes up, the demand for fuel gets exponentially greater. The stock pump will support the lower shots, but once it runs out...it runs out and you will run dangerously lean.
The 5124 comes with 4 different jet sizes which can be configured several different ways to achieve the desired "shot".
The manual may recommend that, but they also don't take into consideration that we cannot retard our ignition. As for the pump, the reason for bigger one as you step up is due to volume. As the shot size goes up, the demand for fuel gets exponentially greater. The stock pump will support the lower shots, but once it runs out...it runs out and you will run dangerously lean.
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MaximaDrvr
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
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08-19-2015 08:20 PM