how to read EGT gauge??
how to read EGT gauge??
Hey All,
I just switched my A/F guage to a EGT pyrometer. I was wondering how Im supposed to read this thing.
When exactly am I running rich and when lean? Will the temp rise significantly when i'm rich? How does that work?
On normal driving conditions,idle is at 600 degrees, normal driving conditions are 1000, punching it normally is 1300 and jucied is about 1450.
THanks for the help! =]
Also, Now that I have my own probe, I can hook the A/F gauge up to it, would it be more accurate?
I just switched my A/F guage to a EGT pyrometer. I was wondering how Im supposed to read this thing.
When exactly am I running rich and when lean? Will the temp rise significantly when i'm rich? How does that work?
On normal driving conditions,idle is at 600 degrees, normal driving conditions are 1000, punching it normally is 1300 and jucied is about 1450.
THanks for the help! =]
Also, Now that I have my own probe, I can hook the A/F gauge up to it, would it be more accurate?
Originally posted by DCmax
If you're at 1300 at WOT off the bottle and 1450 WOT on the bottle you are lean.
If you're at 1300 at WOT off the bottle and 1450 WOT on the bottle you are lean.
Where is your probe mounted? That will vary your readings a lot. No, you cannot use this probe for a AF guage...this measures temperature, the AF guage needs an O2 sensor which measures oxygen content. Very different.
I learned the hard way the A/F ratio gauge (autometer btw) is a waste of space...
you would need a wide-band 02 sensor installed to get a good reading and I tend to think (now) that the egt is more informative...I like the A/F info the SAFC gives me better.
you would need a wide-band 02 sensor installed to get a good reading and I tend to think (now) that the egt is more informative...I like the A/F info the SAFC gives me better.
nothing that dramatic...I thought I had it wired up right, never saw anything dramatic, found a graphic online that said"this is what it should look like when working"
mine looked nothing like that and then I saw Hoon's and it was working right
anyway I felt it was useless...so I replaced it with a boost guage
mine looked nothing like that and then I saw Hoon's and it was working right
anyway I felt it was useless...so I replaced it with a boost guage
Originally posted by WizzaMax
nothing that dramatic...I thought I had it wired up right, never saw anything dramatic, found a graphic online that said"this is what it should look like when working"
mine looked nothing like that and then I saw Hoon's and it was working right
anyway I felt it was useless...so I replaced it with a boost guage
nothing that dramatic...I thought I had it wired up right, never saw anything dramatic, found a graphic online that said"this is what it should look like when working"
mine looked nothing like that and then I saw Hoon's and it was working right
anyway I felt it was useless...so I replaced it with a boost guage
What should the gauge do whem Im running lean? What should happen if I run Ruch.
I just learned I had little next to none nitrous left in the bottle so I was squeezing fuel and air
2nd post here in this form 
800c (1500F) is my limit. anything after that is bad for your engine. The reading is more accurate if it is taken on the manifod. I have it installed on the ypipe and I set the warning light to go off at 760 because the location and the exhaust gas will get cooled off a little.
I think weather your car is running lean or rich is based on how fast the temp increase. It will increase when you boost your car or floor the pedal. But if it increase in a really fast manner, that means it is leaning out.
I usually get 620c when cruising at 70 on a flat road. Partial throttle will increase the EGT faster than boosting....probably the amount of boost (SC) is too small for the FMU to detect.

800c (1500F) is my limit. anything after that is bad for your engine. The reading is more accurate if it is taken on the manifod. I have it installed on the ypipe and I set the warning light to go off at 760 because the location and the exhaust gas will get cooled off a little.
I think weather your car is running lean or rich is based on how fast the temp increase. It will increase when you boost your car or floor the pedal. But if it increase in a really fast manner, that means it is leaning out.
I usually get 620c when cruising at 70 on a flat road. Partial throttle will increase the EGT faster than boosting....probably the amount of boost (SC) is too small for the FMU to detect.
Originally posted by SonicDust187
Will a dyno tell me if one is running rich or lean? And is it is how would I modifiy it without SAFC?
Will a dyno tell me if one is running rich or lean? And is it is how would I modifiy it without SAFC?
Originally posted by PCGuRu2K
You'll need to get a FPR.... On a dyno they can hook up a wideband o2 sensor and they can measure your air/fuel ratio.
You'll need to get a FPR.... On a dyno they can hook up a wideband o2 sensor and they can measure your air/fuel ratio.
Originally posted by SonicDust187
Oh ye, I am going to wait to put the system on till i get the genx2 upgrade, egt, fuel pressure, nitrous pressure gauges and a y-pipe, so that i can have them installed at once and then go dyno. I should start looking for 2 step colder plugs now.
Oh ye, I am going to wait to put the system on till i get the genx2 upgrade, egt, fuel pressure, nitrous pressure gauges and a y-pipe, so that i can have them installed at once and then go dyno. I should start looking for 2 step colder plugs now.
Originally posted by PCGuRu2K
I don't think you'll need 2 step unless your pushing 150+ shot.. I'm only using 1-step colder on my setup.. I think with 2 step you're performance when n/a will suffer until you spray..
I don't think you'll need 2 step unless your pushing 150+ shot.. I'm only using 1-step colder on my setup.. I think with 2 step you're performance when n/a will suffer until you spray..
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