At the track how do u guys launch
For automatics.. do you brake torque?
Do you squeeze in first gear at all?
WHen do you hit it in 2nd?

I got a 14.2 last week and wasnt proud of it.
I didnt brake tourque and I slowly accelerated and didnt squeeze in first. Hit in in second at about 4400 rpm...
1.3 sec reaction time on top of that

 

brake torque.

well anyways if you hit a 14.2 squeezing in secound you are faster than me. hell your already faster than me. damn it i need more power. arrrrrrrrrg.

i use to hit my nitrous kit at 25k in first.

 

I have jdmmax's old kit and I brake torque at around 1500 and then floor it at green. I'm using stock 15" sawblades at the track and I can't spray in first because I'll spin big time. The first time I spray is at about 3100 in 2nd.

 

hahahahaah i never lost traction in first. i was using my 17 in blitx wheels though.

hehehehe but hitting that thing in first at 25k was like WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOHOO HOO HOO HOO HOO HOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

then

i basically launch the same way dcmax does.

 

Brake torque to 2k, hit it on the 3rd yellow and hit the spray at the same time and don't let go til the line. Let the auto shift itself.

If your throttle is not wide open or your not standing on the brakes your just COASTING.

 

Jim, You squeeze at the light in first gear?
How do you deal with traction?

You dont spray between gears do you?

Frank, not spinning out on first? How the heck?
Is that a good thing or a bad thing? wink wink

 

get yourself some drag radials...Walmart has the same ones I use for $140 each in 17s....find some light wheels drop the pressure...and let it rip as early as you like...

 

170 each eh
I cang et a direct port for that price,
then again, i still wont be able to launch.

 

no I said $140 each...

 

I squeeze as soon as I hit the throttle.

Slicks

Yes

 

i was always under the impression if you squeeze too soon the fuel isnt up to par...Maybe wet kits are different Maybe i was just playing it safe i didnt squeeze until 3k in 2nd gear, With my 5spd first gear went quick anyway.

 

Jim, squeezing between gears isnt bad?

Hows your tranny doing?

 

Nitrous is made for autos much more than 5 speeds, if the tranny can't hold it its just like me, it can be replaced.

Battle Max, yes the NX is wet so no increase in FP but even with dry its virtually instantaneous so its not a problem spraying right away.

However with a 5 speed the traction is more of a problem in 1st gear.

 

with the zex kit isnt it spraying all the time your on wot? wont that meen ill be spraying the whole time when i install the kit? like in between gear and ain first? is that good? i have an auto

 

yes

 

pressure decreases proportional to continued aceration...use a momentary switch to control on gears you want...instead of letting it fly..but I did and was pleased with results...

 

so will the zex spraying all the time be ok on my auto trany?

 

Ok, is a relative term, will it break? Who knows? Will I do it again, hell ya can't wait until Sunday. But just a really small 100 shot.

 

small 100 shot, didnt you just get a 12.6 with that "small shot" there jim ?

 

BNut on Superhonda.org's Accord V6 forum -

No particular order here ya go:

- Let your engine cool off by popping the hood and position your car so the hood will cast a shadow on your engine BEFORE you make any runs at the track.
- If you drive a V6, take off as many of the plastic covers off the engine as you can, all they do is help hold in the heat.
- Buy the 8lb bags of ice, they are worth the $1.50 you will spend! Put the ice on top of your intake manifold. Bring a towel if you can to mop up any condensation from the bag. When the ice starts to melt, use a key to poke a hole in a corner of the bag and drain out the water. When you put the bag back on, make sure the hole is facing UP so the water doesn't get all over your engine.
- Ideally your engine temp should be just above the C line when you start your car. By the time you finish staging it should be 3-4 lines above the C line. If your temp guage is still at the C line when you race, VTEC will NOT engage and your time will suck. (I ran a 17 something without VTEC)
- Every 5-10 minutes while your car is cooling off, start your engine for about 30 seconds so you can move the hot engine coolant away from the engine with colder coolant from the radiator.
- Avoid the water pit if possible when staging.
- Do a quick dry spin of your tires to knock off any rocks or dirt that may be sticking to them.
- In an auto: To spin your tires just hold the brake, punch the gas real quick and let off the brake.
- Staging: Slowly pull up to line while watching the Tree (The thing with all the lights in the middle) Once the first pair of yellow lights come on, slowly inch forward until the second pair of yellow lights come on. You are now staged!
- Launching: In an automatic wait until the car next to you is staged and then begin brake torquing. Use your left foot to FULLY depress your brake pedal while useing your right foot to bring the revs to around 1,800rpms or whatever works for you particular setup. There are 3 yellow lights and a green light. When the THIRD yellow light comes on, release the brake while flooring the gas peddle at the same time. If done correctly your car will start moving right as the light turns green and you will have a quick reaction time.
- If your tires peel out to much on the launch, reduce your rpms next time.
- If your engine bogs down of the line because your tires don't chirp, increase your rpms when launching.
- A small quick chirp generally gives the best results in an automatic.
- Racing in D3 or D4 makes no differences in your 1/4 mile times since 3rd is good for a very high speed and you will never go fast enough in the 1/4 mile to worry about your tranny shifting to 4th.
- Always turn off your radio, AC and any electical accessories. When racing at night, only turn on your parking lights. Always roll up your windows before staging and ALWAYS buckle up!
- When you finish a run, find a spot, pop the hood, put your bag of ice back on the intake manifold, and wait a good 30 minutes before you next run.
- If you go to a track with long lines try to push your car up to the staging area before starting it. Otherwise your engine will just heat up and your cool down period will have been wasted.
- If you drive an automatic leave your tire PSI around 30-34psi. It doesn't hurt to increase your rear tire pressure but typically auto's don't have problems with traction off the line.
- If you lower your tire pressure too much its going to increase your rolling resistance and decrease your trap speed and probably hurt your 1/4 mile time.
- Write down your launch rpm on the time slip so you can compare how your rpms affect your time.
- If you can buy a radio shack indoor outdoor thermometer that measures the humidity. After each run write down the the temp and humidity. This will help you because there are websites that can factor in temp and humidity to adjust your times so you can compare runs from different days when the temperature was different.
- Convert your times for hot and cool days: http://gafba.com/calculators/et1.asp

If I think of any more I'll add them as I remember them.

 

nice,
hondas have to take every precaution not too look too bad

 

I have a auto and I spray right after 10 miles an hour and get light wheel spin.
So I'm still in first gear, remember guys, Jime said he hits the switch right at of the hole. But take into affect that he has slicks. Another thing if you want to spray thru gears, do the trans resistor mod. This will save your tranny and acccording to Jime, he said that he went through two tranny's. But he wasn't using the resistor mod, now that he uses it on the third tranny he has yet to have a problem.