2k1maxgle

iTrader: (1)

I have a 2001 max and im installing a Zex wet kit in a couple weeks. I have a/f, fuel pres., and nitrous pres. guages on the way as well as a triple a pillar pod. The jets with the kit range from 75 - 125 horsepower. I know some of you guys are spraying upwards of 150 shot of nitrous, so i have a few questions for you guys spaying the big shots of 100+, because i plan on using either a 100 or 125 shot myself. Now ive been told by an owner of the same kit that the 100 shot is fine as long as my nitrous pressure stays below 900psi, BUT the car will also get richer as you approach higher RPMs. So the questions im asking are...should i go ahead and get a walbro 255 fuel pump?(if so what is the part number for the fuel pump i would need)? and what other recomendations do you guys have. like i said, i plan on running either a 100 or a 125 shot. I dont like to halfway do anything with my max, so i wanna do this right, no matter what it takes.

thanks in advance,

Matt

SonicDust187

iTrader: (11)

Well, I think the 255 will be overkill, I think 190 high flow (none high pressure is good). Run two step colder plugs (try one step first). Also send back the a/f gauge and replace it with egt gauge. And do youself a favor, start with a small shot to see how the system holds up, and to see what the gauges read.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

#1 Nitrous Rules
DO NOT LISTEN TO:

A. YOUR BUDDY!
B. YOUR BUDDY’S FRIEND!
C. THE LOCAL NITROUS GURU!
D. ANY ARTICLE IN ANY MAGAZINE

Follow the kit instructions. NX recommends 1000 psi at all times, all shots, not sure on ZEX, RTFM.

With a wet kit the same amount of fuel and nitrous is admitted at all RPM's so I don't know how he figures it gets richer at higher RPM.

A wet kit does not require a 255 pump a 190 regular pressure (not high pressure) is more than adequate for any shot, you also will probably not have to get an aftermarket fpr like you will with the 255.

I recommend 2 step colder plugs. (BKR7E)


PS It took me a while to write this so SonicDust got in there, so I am repeating some of what he said. So ditto on his stuff, especially the EGT. I prefer a wideband O2 but they cost quite a bit more ($350) and aren't just for the average enthusiast.

2k1maxgle

iTrader: (1)

So no 255 fuel pump, and i should be just fine running pretty much any shot with a wet kit? And where can i find 2 step colder plugs?? thanks for everything.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

Correct, get a 190 lph standard pressure instead. They are available at http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/ '95-'98 Talon/Eclipse/Laser (turbo) Part # FPD004 for $88. They do not list one for the 4th or 5th Gen Max.

I buy my plugs here.
http://www.clubplug.net/

Blu

iTrader: (63)

This info came from me Jim and ZEX recommends 900psi bottle temp.

As far as getting richer at high rpm's I have dynoed and the a/f curve in fact gets richer a lot richer at higher rpms. It is aroun 13:1 until around 5k which then drops to 11:5:1 all the way until redline. The pull was done at 900psi bottle pressure.

Unfortunatly 2 steps colder plugs weren't available for the 02-03's

SonicDust187

iTrader: (11)

My NX bottle warmer gets the pressure up to 1100.

Blu

iTrader: (63)

Like I said im no pro I just thought the NX bottle heater had a safety shutoff once it reached 900psi. I was wrong

Simply turn it on and heats bottle to 1050 PSI and shuts off. When bottle drops to 900 PSI it turns on and heats bottle to 1050 PSI.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

IF ZEX recomends 900 psi then you should run at 900 psi, like I said manufacturers recommendations.

If you are getting richer with a wet kit then the extra fuel is coming from the injectors and you will also be running rich N/A as well. There is no change in the air/fuel ratio on a wet kit, the fuel pressure remains constant.

I can see that happening on a dry kit, hence I do not recommend dry at all, been there, done that, got the T-Shirt.

SonicDust187

iTrader: (11)

Jime so what are you plans now, since you are not turning up the juice to run 11s?

Jime

iTrader: (10)

Hopefully picking up a 2k2 auto within the next couple of months and doing it up for this year.

Don't plan on going too crazy but will probably try for an 11, but only once because after that IHRA requires a cage which I am not about to do, so I will just keep it in the 12's.

This year I just want to race in the 12's, be consistant and try for the annual points championship.

Blu

iTrader: (63)

I'll be watching this closely.

2k1maxgle

iTrader: (1)

for the plugs, what do they need to be gapped. leave them gapped stock of .044 or change them?

Jime

iTrader: (10)

I gap mine at .035 for N/A and all nitrous shots as well.

Here is the plug chart.

Tally Max

Jime, what do you plan on doing to run 11's, justt out of curiousity?

Jime

iTrader: (10)

My theory is that if I can get my 4th Gen to run 12.1 it shouldn't be too hard to get a 3.5L to hit 11's. Just repeat my setup on a 2k2.

Saying that I realize it hasn't been done yet, but then no one ran 12.1 in an auto 4th Gen either.

So I don't plan on doing anything but putting my NX kit on with the 2 stage setup, tranny cooler, drop resistor mod, messing with the suspension and slicks, thats about it. Of course I will have an intake and and least a B-Pipe not sure if I will do a Y yet unless Budget have one my then for the 2k2.

With the wideband and S-AFCII tuning will be a snap. The other thing I do is run a 1 gal fuel cell with 114 octane unleaded for the nitrous. This is the fuel (Mark 5) I used last year and it worked out great. Love the smell too. Its a pretty simple setup really compared to what a lot of folks are running. http://www.speedwaybikes.com/sponsors/fuel.htm

SonicDust187

iTrader: (11)

Jime, why do you need a SAFC with a wet kit?

Jime

iTrader: (10)

Because of the race fuel and to compensate for any difference in A/F of the basic N/A setup.

Like you suggest, don't really need any tuning with the wet kit. Its more of a safety issue for running 100+ on the nitrous. Plus its another playtoy for a big kid. Thats why i bought the wideband O2 so I could tell the SAFC what to do.

I really don't trust the dyno widebands I want to do the test where I use it, at the track. Dyno's do not load the engine the same as when you are at the track and that is what I am tuning for.

My wideband will also log EGT as well as some other inputs which will really help to tune for maximum HP.

Can't wait for spring.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

Was just talking to Jody at Budget and they are working on a jig for the 2k2 y-pipes today so should be available soon.

C MAX

iTrader: (4)

[QUOTE=Jime]My theory is that if I can get my 4th Gen to run 12.1 it shouldn't be too hard to get a 3.5L to hit 11's. Just repeat my setup on a 2k2.

Saying that I realize it hasn't been done yet, but then no one ran 12.1 in an auto 4th Gen either.

you mean no one posted that yet.. just dont go lower than that or they'll ban you
unless you have a cage..

Tally Max

Jime, dont mean to bother you but i was just wondering why you prefer budget as opposed to othere brands? what about headers. i was under the impression that with n20, airflow was the key. thank you

Jime

iTrader: (10)

I prefer Budget because all their pipes are T-304 Stainless Steel and they are cheaper than wrapspeeds aluminized steel pipes. Bang for the buck its the best pipe out there. Plus that I can drive there in less than an hour and they are really great folks and treat me very well.

Besides that wrapspeed bad mouths Budget on their site which is in very poor taste and their product is way overpriced like Stillen etc.

I don't think headers give much for their price, similar to the MEVI and a few other high priced supposedly performance mods. If I am going to spend that much money I want some REAL performance gains.

Remember I am a Budget Racer, which means I not only support Budget Performance Exhaust, I want performance without breaking my wallet.

Tally Max

Thanks alot Jime i really appreciate it

Tally Max

Jime, how big of a shot is your two stage setup? do you have stock internals with your setup? and do you retard your timing at all? i apologize for all the questions. im not sure about nx but for zex it says to retard timing 4 degrees for a 75 shot, but i have no idea how to do it. thanks again for your time Jime

Jime

iTrader: (10)

You can put a 150 in each stage if you want to but not recommended. I haven't really run the 2 stage yet so it will take some experimentation to get the best combo. I am thinking about 35-75 in the first stage out of the hole so I don't lose traction then after the 1-2 shift hitting the second stage with another 35-75 etc shot for the rest of the run but I really don't know how it will work until I try it.

You cannot retard a 4th gen timing unless you get some really expensive electronic stuff or get a JWT ecu etc which again is very expensive so what I do is run 114 race fuel to help reduce any detonation which is what retarding the timing will do. Its just much cheaper to run race fuel than the retard the timing. Thats why I run a small 1 gal fuel cell too, its much easier than trying to get your fuel tank down really low and put race fuel in there.

Prior to doing all this though I just ran with the highest octane pump gas I could get and still ran a 150 shot without blowing it up but its not recommended, I wouldn't go above 75-100 on a pump gas setup without retarding the timing somehow just to be safe.

Oh yes my engine is bone stock internally and NX says to retard the timing too its just that its not possible with the 4th gen without spending a lot of money. Remember I am a Budget racer and I think I have proven that by running 12.1 on less than a $2k investment. For some reason people think you have to spend big bucks to go fast and be safe.