Right but Jim got his from an appliance store. I was hoping to go to Radio Shack to get mine. So I just wanted to make 100% sure I get the right thing when I go. Are you saying yours looks just like Jim's? I guess if there is only one 10A NC switch there then I can't go wrong? Thanks.

 

they only sell one switch like that so you cant go wrong. the switch is dual so you can use it both ways. if you cant find one i'll send you one there only like 3 bucks.

 

"They only sell one switch like that so you can't go wrong.". Well....... I went wrong! I knew this would happen to me, that's why I asked for a model number and/or pic. before I went.

Anyway, I went in there and asked for a "Normally closed 10 Amp switch". He recommended the switch on the left in the pic. below. It didn't seem to be like the one C-Max or Jime is describing so I kept rumaging through the drawers. I bought anything that seemed remotely applicable. Are any of the four switches I bought usuable for the drop resistor bypass mod? None of them say 10 amps. If these are not correct, could you please list the Radio Shack part number C-Max? Thanks.

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!

 

i have the 275-017A with the roller. im sorry bro over here thats all they sell. but you have me wondering if this is correct also. i had it hooked up for a week now with no problems at all. im new to this also so jime would have to answer the technical questions all i can say is its working for me.

 

The 275-017a that you have is the picture is only 5 amps but that the type of switch you want. You will notice there are 3 connectors on it, 1 is common and 1 is n/c and 1 is n/o, you want to use only the common and n/c for the wot DR switch.

Try it, if it won't handle the current the worst it will do is fuse together and won't release which you will notice right away, but C Max says his is working fine.

 

Thanks Jime and C Max. I appreciate the assistance. So why the roller (275-017A) instead of the non-roller lever (275-016A)? Mr. electrical engineer Jim, here's what the Radio Shack guy said to me when I mentioned to him that it was not 10A. He said it was o.k. because it is rated at 3A at 125VAC (I'm refering to the 275-618 switch). And in a car we are only at 10-12 volts so we should be more than fine. Does this make sense? I put off circuits until my senior year and then just barely got out of there with a C. Thanks again guys.

 

Sorry I didn't notice the 016a, which one you use really doesn't matter, both will work, they are rated at the same amperage, which ever one is easier to install, as long as it connects and disconnects at WOT.

 

Thanks Jime. So, no comment on my question to you about the Amps Jim? Correct me if I am wrong but I am calculating that if the switch is 5A at 125VAC, then it is about 12A at 12.5VDC. Yes/no? Therefore the switch should be more than adequete. Not sure if I did that right though.

 

the worst thing that could happen is the switch stops working, which i doubt.
i used the roller type because this was all they sold. well im going on a week and if anything should happen i will post it.

 

Oh boy, taxing my brain.

Current carrying capacity rating at VAC is much higher than VDC because it is alternating and not full on all the time.

Also to be really accurate it would have to be tested to know for sure.

I have a switch rated at 10A at 125 VAC which is only rated at 1/2A at 125 VDC and 1/4A at 250 VDC. Therefore at 5A at 125 VAC would be rated at 1/4A at 125 VDC which would be approx 2.5A at 12.5 VDC.

Probably still ok like C MAX said don't think you will hurt anything other than burn the contacts etc not like overloading wire where you can start a fire.

 

Hey, I just disconnected the resistor for a couple short WOT runs. There is a big difference in shifts at full throttle. I did notice the shifts were shorter, quicker, and seemed like I gained/stayed at speed. There was not really a jerkyness to the shifts at full throttle, but seemed like there was at slow speeds. I will pick up a WOT switch soon and complete the mod.

 

Where you guys getting brackets to mount it?

 

i used those L brackets that come with radios and measured it from a bolt to the throttle and drilled some screws in to hold the switch. also the switch i got from radioshack is failing. my car is down right now for the s/c but it was on its way out. i noticed that i W.O.T it wasnt shifting quick anymore and when i tested it the current stayed on even with switch depressed. on a good note if it does fail it doesnt cause any harm it just puts it back to normal.

 

Mine is mounted on the gas pedal because the 5.5 is drive-by-wire.

 

I finally (I'm a slacker) took the car to an empty road last weekend to try Jime's DR Bypass mod before I cut any wires and install the WOT switch. I just got out and unplugged it. At low speeds, it is really clunky - at WOT, it is smooth. Maybe I was expecting too much but I hardly felt any difference at WOT with the 1-2 shift (a far different story than the 1-2 chirp I am reading about here) and the 2-3 was definitely firmer. I can't say 'better', just firmer. ? I'll probably continue with this mod but it is not equivalent to a VB mod (where you really feel a firm/fast shift - but I've had enough of that, no more for me).

Too bad C-Max's Radio Shack switch started to fail, now I need to return my switch and search for a new one. :I

 

just for a note it wasnt the current or the amp rating that made it fail it was the heat from the motor which actually melted the plastic switch. i believe with a higher rating it can withstand the constant heat surrounding it. i guess some switches are made for the heat hence the microwave switch that jimes use. im gonna buy a heavy duty switch once im back up and running.

 

With that said, maybe mounting it under the throttle pedal is a better idea with the radioshack switches?

 

humnn not a bad idea

 

i was under the impression that at WOT the tranny shifted at 100% line pressure anyways and the DR mod wasnt necessary...

 

obviously not if with teh DR mod is shifts harder

 

The link and article below was in the Nissan Performance Mag in Oct 2003. As I have highlighted below you can see that they say the trans is at full line pressure at WOT.

This is BS and I had an argument and won against her boss who tried to defend her article. I even did a video to prove the DR mod shifts quicker. Most of her article is good, she just doesn't know that the Maxima trans is NOT at full line pressure under WOT.

However, it does not shift the same on all cars. Some it will chirp some it will just make it firmer. My 95 would definately chirp even with slicks, my 97 wouldn't and my 02 doesn't either. However I believe it does save the clutches by shifting quicker and reduces heat buildup.

Try it like ptatohed did and then decide if you want to do it or not. Definately do a WOT switch though its really jerky and probably will damage your trans over time if you do it at part throttle.

http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/...r03/ask_sarah/


Recently on Maxima.org someone posted about a 'drop resistor mod'. When a sensor is disconnected, it allows the full line pressure in the auto tranny which makes shifts faster and more abrupt. I tried this myself and it makes an enormous difference in shift times. Is it harmful to the transmission? Derek Michaels

Full line pressure will be slightly easier on the transmission because it reduces slippage (typically 2-8% for autos) and shift overlap (being in two gears at once when upshifting) due to stronger application forces being directed via the servos to the bands and clutches. This locks up the bands and clutches harder and gives firmer shifts. By reducing slippage, it also decreases the amount of heat produced by the clutches and bands and locks the clutch in the torque converter up harder in the higher gears to increase fuel economy. The heat produced by slippage contributes to wearing out the seals, bands and clutches in an automatic more quickly. However, since the transmission controller is programmed to give full line pressure at wide open throttle, this mod just gives rough shifts at part throttle. It's similar to using an HKS ALC (Automatic Line Controller) box. Other ideas to improve shifting with an auto tranny could be to shim the PL solenoid regulator springs to increase peak pressure or to shim the shift accumulator springs to firm up and speed up the shifts. Or you can just swap in a manual!

 

cmax i used the same switch for my nitrous...maybe its time to get the ricey push button one, or an official switch from nx....of course the wot is different since it cuts off current....but i used it the opposite way for my nitrous....

 

So to clarify Jime..does radioshack carry the WOT switch at 10 amps?? Id like to try this mod but dont want switches melting. If Radioshack dsnt carry it can you point me to a more focused shop to pick the switch up at?

 

They are used universally in many applications. An appliance or surplus electronic store is probably the best place and where I get mine.

Here are a couple of urls or do a search for "microswitch lever" make sure it has N/C (normally closed) contacts or both N/O and N/C.

http://www.electronicsurplus.com/com...oduct_id=74066

http://www.alltronics.com/switches.htm

 

thanks Jime, yea i have to do a bit of looking. Most places im looking through here in the greater toronto area have diddly squat

 

Ah Sheit didn't notice where you were. I found some at Princess Auto, they are only a buck or two. That can't be too far from you. Look in the surplus section they have all kinds of stuff there.

 

sweeta$$!!! i have a princess auto down the street from me...that place is the best..friend of mine built a go kart from mostly princess auto parts..under $500 and he used an 8hp motor. Jime additionally would i be able to find a piece usable for the bracket with which to mount the switch onto at princess auto as well?

 

I used a bracket from the nitrous kit for my 4th gen but made the one for my 5th gen from some perforated steel I got from Crappy Tire. Any kind of steel will do as long as it doesn't bend.

They may have something a princess.

 

Does princess auto also carry wiring I can use to connect everything?? oh one more question Jime..on your 4th gen, you simply ran the wire from the DR str8t to the switch and souldered everything??? plus what are did you run it around, id like to avoid a fire

 

I used 14 gauge from princess but it could be lighter thats overkill. I just ran from the resistor down to the base that the battery sits on then over and up behind the throttle body. Best to solder, I did have one of the connectors fall off one day at the track.

 

Thanks Jime I plan on doing this mod tonight , ill update as follows

 

when i do the drop resistor mod at Wot, my check engine light comes on, Code- p0745 ( Pressure control solenoid Malfunction ), Is this suppose to happen, did anybody else get any check engine lights, what should i do??

 

yeh the code is normal i get it sometime. the reason is the computer is sensing a voltage drop and is letting you know. we are doing it on purpose so its alright. i have a obd scanner so i just reset with no problem

 

I have the obdii scanner also but the light is going to keep coming back on again even though i clear it right?

 

Right, thats the price you pay for faster shifting.

 

Hmmm, I didn't know that. How often does the light come on? Ever 'X' uses? Once every 'X' days? 'X' miles??

 

Pretty much every time you use it. I hardly ever got wot except at the track so its a simple matter to erase the code after the days racing. Actually I just spend 2 days at the track and haven't erased it yet.

 

Anybody have track time before and after the mod?

 

Are there any negative effects to leaving the check engine light on Jime???
Ive had the Dr installed for some time now and my check engine has been on consistent since the day I put it in.. I rarely hit WOT like maybe once a week on the highway and such..

 

You won't know if you are throwing any other code(s).