i was wondering if any of you guys, such as Jime, or anyone else that are using slicks and nitrous at the track have ever had any problems with breaking axels? i want to get some but im not sure about it. i really dont feel like breaking them being this is my daily driver. also, some suggestions on tire/wheel combo would be much appreciated also. thanks a lot

-Steve

 

Everyone said I would and I always knew it was possible but hasn't happened (yet).

That is after 3 Maximas, all runnng slicks and nitrous.

I use 15x7 Kosei K1's and 22x8x15 M/T slicks. This is for an auto, a manual would use a larger tire.

 

So what would you say is the weakest part of your 4th and 5th gens' drivetrain? Is it the tranny or the slicks? Which one will break lose first?

I am guessing the tranny is the weakest link. So with that said, how many trannies have you broken b/c you were putting too much power through it?

I have 145K miles on my tranny with a high stall TC and nice VB mod. I keep it well maintained at all times and never let the tranny temps heat up past 160*F.

I am wondering how much luck you've had with your auto trannies in the past while running 12s and 13s in the 1/4 mile with the DR mod and nitrous. Thanks.

 

I haven't broken any trans because of too much power. Which one will break loose first depends on the size of the slick and the amount power etc.

All the auto's I have had (3) have performed great until the 2k2.

Now I don't blame that necessarily on the 2k2 trans but mainly because of the amount of power I am trying to put through it. It does perform great at N/A levels and up to a 75 shot its great. Lets put it this way if I kept my times down to a mid 12 sec level, no problem. But as soon as I get above that it has a slow 3-4 shift because I am way over 100 mph mark.

The cure, well I am working on it. I have decided that spraying through the shifts is just too much for the trans and am going to run a digital rpm window switch as well as break the nitrous into a 3 stage effort.

Of course all of this would be non essential if I weren't trying to run 11's. I could just run mid 13's N/A or high 12's with a 35 shot and never run into slippage problems, thats what I ended up doing at the race last weekend.

 

About that 3-4 shift, since it's electric and not hydrolic, it will be hard to quicken that shift. I guess your best bet is to be at the top of 3rd gear through the traps. Which would require a bigger slick. Figure out the maximum trap speed you think you want to run at, then you can figure what final drive gearing you need and what size tire you need. Sorry, I know you already know this. lol

Thanks for the info.

 

Aaron I just hope I have it figured correctly. I have a set of 24.5x8x15 M/T's on order. That means I should be able to hit almost 120 mph at redline in 3rd, exactly what you are suggesting. That should give me a bunch more traction I just hope the trans and axles will handle it. Although I don't plan on doing much more than a 50 shot out of the hole, that netted me a 1.75 60' with the old setup and I don't think I can do much better.

The only problem I have is that I am trying to run a quick N/A time as well as spray and it just doesn't work, you have to decide which is the most important and go for it. So I guess my N/A times are going to suffer a bit.

 

You're exactly right. I had the same decision a while back. Since I was worried about bracket racing, I got 23" OD drag radials so I can launch without a chirp with my high stall TC. But I wanted 22" MT slicks to bracket race with b/c of the nitrous I want to do. But my class only allows DOT approved tires and mufflers. So I had to stay within the rules and get 22" MTs when I'm ready to spray. Oh well, just like you said, you have to choose one or the other.