Jime

iTrader: (10)

MSD has a new window switch out for 2004. This one is digital, doesn't require any modifications for the coil-per-cylinder ignition system, its adjustable from 200 to 15000 RPM in 100 RPM increments and requires no pills.

The best part is its price is not much higher than the old one. Jegs is around $92 and Summit lists for $69 but I think it may be a misprint.

http://www.msdignition.com/2004/2004_2.htm

I should have on on Fri and will see how it works.

Running N/A and lower shots shifts fine with the DR Mod but when running over a 100 HP shot the 3-4 shifts are way too slow and the clutches won't last long at that level, so I am going to try the new window switch.

I have also ordered a new set of M/T 24.5x8x15 slicks my old ones are now down to the cord. The larger diameter will also keep me in 3rd gear.

DaThrillr

very nice jim, please let us know how it works..... to speed up the 3-4 shift have u ever considered the maxximum tuning (jeff) version 2 VB upgrade, it makes 1-2 and 3-4 shifts harder.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

The VB and DR mods work great for N/A or lower shots like I said earlier but the more power you put down the slower the transmission shifts and when I get over the 300 mark it is considerable. The 4th Gen was a bit better than my 2k2 for the 3-4 shift but even it was slow when under considerable power.

No one has ever convinced me the VB mod can shift as fast as the DR mod let alone faster.

DaThrillr

ok.... understandable.... the only thing i dont like about the DR mod is the harsh downshift, to me it doesnt feel rite.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

It won't be on when you downshift if you use a WOT switch.

nostrixoxide

Hey Jime I read your post the other day about the 2K2 tranny shifting sluggish and I found this information on VQ35driver.com. I'm not sure if it can cure your problem but it was intresting reading about it and I guess it wouldn't hurt to find out.

Hyper-Ground systems have been used in racing for many years apparently. It’s also been on “the radar” of many high-performance auto enthusiasts for a long time. NISMO, the high-performance and racing division of NISSAN Japan, have kits out for their cars.
One of the major magazine publications that cater to the high-performance crowd was also skeptical. In their April 2003 issue, they grounded 3 cars, and ran before and after dynamometer tests for horse power. They were amazed, but in each case, the cars showed improvement! In fact, a modified 1995 twin-turbo Mazda RX-7 showed a horse power increase of 15.3 at 6500 RPM!
Feedback from most people that have actually installed GroundingGear™ is overwhelmingly positive. Virtually all report a significant improvement in engine smoothness, throttle response, and more stability in engine RPMs, especially at idle. Many report less “buzziness” and harshness of the engine at high RPM as well as improved starting, and with a Hyper-Grounded automatic transmission, most are reporting better shifting response. A few have reported better gas mileage, and those with 4 cylinder engines say that they no longer feel the engine “bog down” when they turn on the air conditioner. One client was convinced that GroundingGear™ made dramatically more noticeable improvement in the performance of his car than when he put on a Cold Air Intake, costing 3 to 4 times more. Another client provided me with charts of dynamometer runs taken about 15 minutes apart, showing before/after increases of 5.9 hp and 9.8 torque, in his new G35 with installed GroundingGear™!

tampamax

Jime, i just saw your 12.1 run in the 3.5. Big thumbs up man, looking great. No matter how fast you go or how many dumbestic's you ride out on they will always have some lame excuse.<--(The ford and chevy guys are argueing over your run on my board)

Just keep repp'n. BTW....how tall are the slicks you run?

Jime

iTrader: (10)

The M/T's i have now are 22" but the ones I have on order are 24.5, so I should be able to stay in 3rd gear until the end of the 1/4 now.

With the 22's I had to shift to 4th even on N/A runs.

NostrixOxide I did have a partial grounding job done but just completed it today after reading your post. I did a nice short heavy one on the trans so will see if it makes any difference.

DaThrillr

jime where did u ground the tranny too? and where did u connect onto the tranny to ground?

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Any updates Jime?

Jime

iTrader: (10)

Was hoping the have the window switch fri but its not in yet. They are in stock in the city so I will have it installed by the weekend but I don't think my slicks will be in, they said 2 weeks last wed but I am keeping my fingers crossed. I may end up racing on the old ones sunday, but it will be a 35 shot only, just enough to get through the day.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Keep me posted on how the MSD works out, since I'm thinking of getting it.

Good luck on the new slicks~!

Jime

iTrader: (10)

Ok, got the MSD connected and it works fine, had to drop it down to 5900 to get it to cut out before the shift because of the lag. I set it to come on at 1000. I will play with it a bit more at the track.

Had a bit of trouble getting it to work initially, you have to press the bejeezus out of it to get it to change modes etc but once its set I will probably never set it again. It even reads the RPM constantly as well.

Will try it out on Sat at the track, just got a call from my Son and my slicks are in.

Toolrocks

iTrader: (1)

Jime, you say this RPM switch constantly reads the RPMs - does that mean that it will display your RPM? If so, does it follow the actual RPM better than the stock tach? I ask because even with a shift light and "training" myself to know that my tach will read ~6800 when my 6300 rpm light illuminates I'd like to have a better reading of my actual RPMs. Hope that makes sense. Thanks.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

It takes its reading from the ecu so its more accurate than the stock tach which reads about 3-400 high for me. My obdII reader and S-AFC II which also get their signal from the ECU read the same as the RPM switch.

Yes it does constantly display but only in 100's ie 6.1 for 6100.

Toolrocks

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Jime, always so informative.

jcy98maxse

iTrader: (8)

I went to Summit but couldnt find this switch, I did see another on that had a description of this: "Window Switch RPM Activated for CPC/DIS Ignitions" Part number was MSD-89561. Is this the same switch that you were talking about? thanx

Jime

iTrader: (10)

Thats not it. Click on the link in my first post. Its an 8969.

They are fairly new so not all places may have them yet.

jcy98maxse

iTrader: (8)

why does the regular window switch need modification? What exactly does MSD do to make it work for our cars?

Max1man

iTrader: (2)

Hey Jime...GREAT information on the MSD switch. I just got mine yesterday and am nearly ready to begin installing everything. One question.... do you have any pics of where you tapped into the ECU to get the tach output? I havn't gone knee deep in the FSM's yet so this question may be a little bit premature. Any info you could provide me would sure save some time and help reiterate what I find in the FSM. Two heads are better than one and all that.

edit: Just found the answer to that on your website

I'm also concerned about Amp draw with all these items (bottle heater, opener, system, msd, safcII etc etc). If you don't mind, which switched 12V supplies did you use for your components? I was thinking of just tapping into the cig lighter for the in cabin stuff.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

There are probably a few blanks, ie no fuse, in your fuse panel that you can find with a simple test light or multimeter.

For a simple method, I just feed the wire in from the back of the panel, snip a bit off the fuse leg, wrap the wire around the short fuse leg, and push the fuse into the slot. Quick&dirty, but works nicely.

Toolrocks

iTrader: (1)

I don't know all the devices current draw but my bottle heater draws 13 amps!

jcy98maxse

iTrader: (8)

tap the tach signal off the ecu harness, I think Jime's website has a writeup on a SAFCII install, just tap into that tach wire and u should be fine.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

Your nitrous solenoids and heater need to be fed directly from the battery with some pretty heavy wiring, I use 12 gauge, don't forget to put a fuse on it.

As far as the power to the heater relay, bottle opener and the rest of that stuff the draw is relatively minor. I took mine off of one of the heavy duty fuse outlets (can't remember which one) but something 20 amps or higher, all of that stuff together is probably around 1 amp or so.

jcy98maxse

iTrader: (8)

jime-where did you mount the window switch?

Jime

iTrader: (10)

Actually it just layed on the floor, very close to the ecu, I only used it temporarily until I got the Maximizer.

NisMo-Max

iTrader: (40)

Your getting the maximizer now, i give you mad props Jime, you know your sh*t. Im installing my zex kit tomorrow, cant wait to see how bad the installs are!!