So I was testing how well my clutch is gonna handle the 65 shot, and did a run through 2nd gear. It barely grabbed, and spun up to 6000 or so. As I got off the throttle and into neutral the car kept revving itself between 1000-2000 rpm, so I pulled over. It kept revving, so I turned the car off along with the bottle heater and nitrous. I got out of the car and heard a loud noise coming from around the intake that sounded like the intake was still sucking in air, or the nitrous was still spraying. So I closed the bottle, and by the time I got back to the engine the sound had stopped. I started the engine up again and as soon as it cranked there was a fairly loud metal/metal clicking noise that clicked once, but went away when the car was started. The car drove fine after that.

So I called Jason and he told me it could be my solenoid going bad, since it sounds like it might have still been spraying after I turned it off. However, since the noise stopped so quickly after I closed the bottle, instead of 15 seconds later or so (for the pressure to be let out of the line), we aren't sure if it is the solenoid going bad, or maybe something else.

I'm going to call JWT ASAP, but I wanted to see if others had a similar experience, or might know what caused some of the problems. Thanks guys.

 

You got teflon tape caught inside the solenoid. You aren't supposed to put teflon on compression fittings. Dissasemble the Nitrous solenoid and clean out the trash.

That or you have a wiring issue on your relay.

 

So exactly how does that cause the engine to rev continuously? I suppose I should get a solenoid rebuild kit. How can I be sure that the solenoid is the problem?

 

i had a similar problem with my car when my mass air flow sensor was not plugged in tight, granted i don't have nitrous but maybe you should check all connections and all lines. Sorry if you have already checked this but it is a suggestion. Good luck

 

If the solenoid has trash in it, it usually can't close itself and Nitrous still flows through the jet. If the fuel solenoid does manage to close itself the engine can still rev because of the engines fuel mixture. The ECU will also see a lean condition and try to compensate by adding fuel.

 

I would check the relay's wiring, and if you did use tape on the threads I would pull the solenoid out. If the JWT switch was in the off posisition and the nozzle was still spraying nitrous (which it sounds like it was) you probably ran very lean - I hope the metal to metal sound wasn't detonation from nitrous being in the intake w/o enough gas. btw, I should get my ECU this week.

 

Yeah, I switched the nitrous off and I'm guess it was still spraying the nitrous. If I ran lean for 3-5 seconds while in neutral, how can I find out if any damage was done? How would I know if the sound upon startup was detonation? I get the feeling it could have been.
Yeah, JWT will say it's coming this week. Don't get your hopes up. They told me that a few times a couple months ago. Either way, I hope you have better luck with your setup that I do.

 

the chances of detonation occuring while at idle are very very slim so that proboly didnt hapen

what could of happened is a backfire in your intake that could have been what happened when you heard the clancking ive had mine backfire a few times when i let off but i think its because im so rich

 

We did not use any teflon tape, only paste, and only a touch on the outside of the threads. I am thinking that the solenoid may need the rebuild kit. Have you taken the solenoid apart like I told you? Did you check to see if the plunger inside has a small chunk taken out, or is it smooth. I know the wiring is right, and we actually have a switch controlling a relay that is being powered through the computer. The switch must be armed, and the car must be at 3000 RPM to initiate the control from the computer. I think there may be a sensor that is tweaking out with the new computer. I wonder if there is something to the whole Maxima computer in an infinity may actually be an issue. And get a new clutch...

 

There is also an outside chance that the relay got stuck open...

 

You do NOT use teflon or ANY type of sealant on compression fittings. That is what I was trying to say. Sealant only goes on pipe threads.

 

Ditto on taking the solenoid apart. I heard mine hissing even after turning the system off. We took apart the solenoid and somehow there was a tear in the gasket. Like something had gotten through the nitrous filter and blown through the solenoid. Replaced gasket and everything is good again.

 

The sealant is on the solenoids, as they are NOT compression. He has all AN fittings elsewhere, and the teflon paste is on all the pipe thread going into and out of the solenoids.

 

And that is correct.