From what I can tell in here..this is a new question and I did do a search and read just about all the threads. What do those of you that are seeking the high gains (75+shot) using/prefer for activation? Are you happy with just a WOT switch or is it better to have a happy button? I'm curious because I am converting from S/C to N2O and would like to eventually work my way up to a 100shot. Just wanna make sure I'm preparing well in advance with the equipment I buy. Right now I have bit the bullet and am going to purchase the J&S UltraSafeguard with Dual Monitor and I'm leaning towards a full ZEX wet setup including all the trimmings. I am looking to hear anyones opinions, suggestions etc.

Thanks in advance.

 

It depends, everyone has there own preference. I just used a switch mounted on the dash, along with the WOT switch. Other people buy the remote switch with the cable, and just hold onto it while shifting. Either way is fine, as long as your comfortable with it.

 

1) You should always use a WOT switch because nitrous should only be activated at WOT. You can easily blow your motor if you don't.

2) For autos I'd highly recommend having an additional push button because the tranny might downshift when you are spraying (want to make sure the tranny has downshifted before spraying) - this is obviously not a problem for manuals, but a push button can provide more control.

 

Thank you for the input. That confirms what I've been told by some others.

 

+1 on button and WOT....... you ALWAYS want to have the control to shut it off.....

Just like with Gun's and safeties.....its a mechanical device. Keep your finger OFF THE TRIGGER and you won't have any problems =)

 

I use one of the switches on the steering wheel. For the 2k2 I use the one that switches modes for the trip gizmo because its on the left side of the steering wheel.

Just have to find out what color the wires are from the FSM and find them coming out of the steering column. Then put in a switch so you can switch from normal to engage nitrous so you don't lose the switches original capability.

Just makes it a lot easier than trying to run a coiled wire from the steering wheel or having one somewhere else thats harder to reach.

 

no such thing, you can spray in any gear as long as its w.o.t and it doesnt make a difference if it downshifts or not. i have the standard micro switch and arming switch thats it. i've been using this method since 99

 

What do you mean no such thing? Many people including myself (when I was still auto) have experienced the occasional lag in downshifting. You've never stepped on the gas and took a second for the auto tranny to downshift??

If this happens when you're spraying, the tranny will downshift and your RPMs will jump above redline (I've personally experienced ~7000rpm on the downshift when spraying).

 

that has nothing to do with the nitrous, a good vb mod would stop the lag and or a better tranny.

 

Yes, it has A LOT to do with the nitrous. If you are not spraying, RPMs should never jump to 7000+ during a downshift (assuming your tranny is in good condition, of course).

A modified VB affects the quickness/firmness of the shift. It does not affect the downshifting lag that sometimes people get when going WOT. The lag is TCU related, not VB related.

An upgraded tranny? HAHA. You expect everybody with nitrous to spend thousands of dollars on an upgraded transmission? Off the top of your head, I bet you can't count more than five auto Maxes with a bulletproof tranny. The only transmission upgrade(s) that 99% of the people here do are a modified VB and/or high-stall torque converter (even a high-stall TC is fairly uncommon). I had both & neither will stop 7000+ rpm downshifts associated with high power output and lag.

 

well i never experienced it or neither of my nitrous boys. i dont understand this lag thing you talk about. i run 12.9 in the 1/4 spraying the whole way with no lag what so ever. i have bullet proof waverider, tj max and a whole bunch of other people i know have bullet proof and thts just off the top of my head. a simple vb mod will stop the lag thing you talk of during shifts and who downshifts at 7000 rpm

 

i dont have nitrous but i rode in cmax car and trust me theres no lag in his tranny. he has used it from 2nd gear up to the end of the clock on some ocassions and the car continously picked up with no lag. so maybe it might be the tranny that causes lag for some of you.

 

You misunderstand me. I'm not talking about the lag (slippage) when the tranny upshifts (of course VB mod or drop resistor mod will help this). (I never mentioned UPSHIFT in my previous posts; I always said DOWNSHIFT, yet you still think UPSHIFT...omg)

I'm talking about the kind of lag that you feel when you're slowing down for a stop sign. You slow down, but not stop completely, you then floor it but the tranny doesn't downshift immediately. This is the lag I'm talking about. Many people have experienced it and there are many threads pertaining to it. It doesn't happen every single time, but it does happen. Do a search if you still don't know what i'm referring to.

Perhaps your bulletproof tranny fixes this lag, but how many people have extra thousands of dollars to spend? A simple $20 button can prevent people w/o a bulletproof tranny from jumps to 7000+ rpms when the tranny lags.

 

I don't think I would ever take the chance my trans would downshift after applying nitrous. Normally I hit in in 1st and it stays on to the end of the run. The only exception is testing on back roads and then I nail it and wait until it downshifts and then spray.

You are probably putting a lot of stress my doing that. If the trans is bulletproof I guess its ok but mine isn't so I wouldn't do it on my car.

 

Geeesh...even glader i did the 5spd conversion now lol

 

I never took the chance, I just waited for mine to downshift, then I would hit the nitrous. Even with a VB mod, you could tell when the nitrous was running, because the RPM got pushed higher, and it took a little longer to shift.

 

longer to shift?? downshifting while spraying.

When mine sprays it shifts really fast. In fact if i was to leave my foot on the on the gas pedal it wouldn't spray above 6000rpm. I got a window switch, you don't want to be spraying near your fuel cut off.

I use the same method as JIME, I have a WOT switch in series with a steering wheel button.

 

that is what i mean. a person truly using nitrous to obtain maximum speed hits the switch at optimum time and holds it to end of run. but now i know what you mean by lag after reading some posts. of course if your cruising at 50 and decide to wanna spray you first floor it, wait for it to downshift then spray. i would never spray until it dropped down into gear also.

 

i run a WOT switch and a clutch switch so when i push the clutch in it cuts the nitrous. this alows me to do WOT shifts safely

 

Interesting....Im putting in the DigiSet device from NX to delay the WOT activation X amount of seconds. You think that would be enough for traction issues or should I go ahead and grab the MSD window switch as well?

 

You should get a window switch to prevent from over reving the motor and blowing it, thats the biggest benefit of that one.

 

Where's the best place to order it from? MSD direct? I could search again for a link I found buried but if you know that would sure help

 

http://www.summitracing.com/

 

Hey Thanks for the linkage

 

So with a happy button switch connect in series with a WOT and Arming switch, it would spray as long as the button is press to complete the circuit. However what would happen if I were to throw a window switch into the picture? Let say I set my nitrous to cutoff @ 6400 rpm, now would the nitrous disengage after 6400rpm even if the happy button remains on (in my case I was going to hook up a regular switch so it would be on/off instead of keeping my finger press on the button) and reengage after shifting? where would I insert the window switch into the circuit, between Arming and Happy switch? or does it matter?

 

1. Yes it will spray as long as the button is pressed to complete the circuit.

2. A window switch is just the same as introducing a 3rd switch into a series circuit. Disconnect one and it shuts down.

3. Doesn't matter where you insert the window switch (as long as its in the same circuit as the on/off and WOT), as indicated previously in a series circuit any interuption will shut it down.

If you do get a window switch get the MSD #8969. Its called their Digital RPM Activated Window Switch. It will work with any ignition type, doesn't require pills or any modification to work on a Maxima. It can be programmed in 100 RPM increments from 200-15,000 and has an RPM readout and can be programmed while engine is running.

PS After saying that, I spray through all gears except 3-4 which on the 2k2 doesn't shift quicker with the DR mod. So I just hold in 3rd till the end of the 1/4. Thats why nitrous is better suited to an auto. Both of my 4th Gen's I sprayed through all shifts with just a tranny cooler and DR mod with no problems.

 

Ya I just bought a 8969 this morning. Will be sweet not to have to futz with any pills and be able to make WOT shifts without worrying about the dreaded POP.

 

question here, uhm for those that say push button or wot.....cant u just use the arm switch as ure little push button if u feel the need to get the surge "manually" so to speak? there were times where i went WOT and had the arm switch off, then armed it, and it sprayed, it acted as my push button, and either let off the button or flip the arm switch back off...

is this bad? its the same ish as a pushbutton isnt it?

 

Same thing only a push button on your steering wheel is a bit easier and safer because you aren't reaching for it and you can keep both hands on the wheel.

 

yeh i had many of days fumbling for that switch lol

 

lmao...

push button on ure steeringwheel huh? ive been trying to get that done, how is this possible with our stock wheels, the wire would get tangled and caught if u turn ure wheel wouldnt it?

or did u mean on an aftermarket steering wheel?

 

I use the trip computer button on my 2k2 but on my 4th Gen I used the cruise control button. If you look in the FSM and get the colors of the wires you can find them where they come out of the steering column. I then put in a switch at the bottom of the steering column so I could switch between cruise and nitrous.

You can also use a coiled wire but it does tend to get tangled.

 

HAHAHA, had the same problem. I was at the track and I couldn't find the switch in the dark, after i found it was too late.

Jime steering wheel button idea is very good.