Okay guys this may sound like neewwb question but i was wondering. When spraying in an automatic do you let go of the gas pedal when you know its gonna switch gears or just keep it floored. Also will keeping it floored **** up the engine? Plus how many hear have run nitrous on stock automatics, meaning no vb mod, also is it safe to run lets say a 50 to 75 shot on stock auto tranny?
Oh yeah i'm thinking of using the zex wet kit, os that ok???
Sorry if this is newb question i just dont wanna fck up my tranny, thanks guys


Thanks
Robert

 

I have heard good and bad things about spraying between shifts in an auto. Most of the dragstrip guys always spray between shifts in their autos but Im more familar with American cars. My Camaro is a 6pd and I would always let out of the gas when shifting.

 

most guys here use a window switch, meaning it turns nitrous off at special rpm so you don't hit the rev limiter.

I use a tranny cooler. On my track day with nitrous(75 shot) my tranny started slipping. The rpm started going down slowly while I was running the 1/4 mile.

I run an altima, so the maxima auto tranny should hold the 75 shot without a problem.

 

You can run it with an auto. Tranny cooler is a real good idea, as is a VB mod, it will help your auto last longer. When I ran nitrous on my auto, I noticed my RPM went higher before shifting by about 200 rpm, but not enough to be concerned. Run a window switch to cutoff before you get to your rpm/fuel cutoff and you will be okay. You can spray between shifts.

 

I have a ZEX wet kit and the 75 jets in. I have always kept it floored through shifts, but to make those shifts faster, I did the Drop Resister mod. Deffinitely the best mod for the cost of a simple arming switch! The DR won't necessarily make life any easier on your tranny, however it saves you from worrying about traveling into redline between shifts.

 

Thanks for the replys guys is their anything else i should consider, like spark plugs and a purge kit?

 

Yes and Yes

 

i have run 70 shot with no tranny upgrade or cooler or vb mod for about a year with no problems. the tranny will eventually die quicker though.

 

Where can i buy the spark plugs?

 

Autoparts store? Anyplace that carries NGK really.

 

Do you know whcih ones i should get i know that you should get one step colder, and you guys think i'll be safe with the advance timeing i have?

 

BKR6ES-11 is one step colder. I would set your timing back to stock, I would NOT run it advanced with nitrous.

 

absolutley if anything you have to retard the timing with nitrous

 

I thought i read somewhere that its ok to run at a little advance, im only at 17 degree and stock is 15, dont remmember who but i know someone on the org said they've run with it.

 

This is NX's offical opinion - kinda-




I've just had a couple of Emails with NX Tech Support about my fried platinum plugs and exhaust valves, and this is what NX had to say:

#1:

Harold,
First, I would recommend not using platinum plugs as they don't react well to nitrous use. This could be the cause of the burnt plugs. Also, have you upgraded anything for the ignition?
What are you doing about the timing? Are you leaving it at the stock settings or are you pulling some timing for the nitrous? This could definately be causing the problems if you have too much timing in the motor.
That's all I can think is causing it right now.

Thank you,


#2

Harold,
I would recommend running an NGK plug that is Steel/Copper or Steel/Iridium. For timing I would recommend pulling 3-4 degrees fromt the stock timing. Also, stay away from multi-tip plugs as they don't tend to work well with nitrous usage.

Thank you,


Interesting , yes? .......

 

You'll be fine stock with an automagic. The window switches are use more for 5-speeds, and the trick with the auto is to disconnect the pressure switch at the track, so you run full line presure with the trans. The switch disconnects at the front of the driverside strut tower, and is a little plug with two wires in it. Set timing back to stock for 75 shot, and it will be fine. kinda like you retarded it 2 degrees for the nitrous. Yes run copper plugs, and as cold of a heat index is better. 2 steps is best, one step colder is still ok. No platinum plugs. Trans cooler is not a bad thing either, and also running Amsoil is extremely helpful. I personally have the Mobiltek stage 2 VB, and it rocks. Just get it hooked up and start to play with it. Start with the smallest jet you have, and work your way up. Make sure you have good bottle pressure so you really enjoy it.

 

Do you disconnect your pressure switch even though you have the VB. If so how well does that work for you

 

Works fine....full pressure the whole time. Only for the 1/4 mile though. Around town, it down shifts too hard. I now have it wired through a relay to the WOT switch when the nitrous is armed.

 

I was looking into Puting a Zex Wet system on my 01, I have an auto, with intake, straightpipe and a few other things.

Whats the drop resister mod?

What would I need to get to get a stable 75 shot running on my car?

 

You would need one or two step colder copper or iridium plugs and for safety a walbro 190 high flow (non high pressure) pump.

 

how hard is it to install the fuel pump? Is the Zex Wet System any good? Which ones better iridiums or copper?

 

Search, Search, and Search! Read these forums a little before just posting up the same old question again and again. All of these questions have been discussed numerous times again and again.

 

...but remember, one cannot search if one does not donate.

 

Yeah and learn not to jack threads bizznatch

 

iridiums have been good for me

 

what i did was at the line rev it to about 2500 rpm and then when i launch and the car hooks up then i start spraying as soon as the car hit 3000 rpm and i spray the entire 1/4 mile thru all the automatic shifts

 

What were your times??? What shot were you using???

 

Is it possible that your RPM went higher because it was slipping? because otherwise an auto should not reach the rev limiter because it shifts before that. I assume with extra hp the tranny might slip while shifting causing it to rev higher and posibly reaching the limiter and fuelcuttoff. I a tranny cooler and dr mod set to a WOT switch. u guys think i am safe with spraying between shifts? or still good idea to stop spray between shifts?

 

Thats the point of the window switch on an auto, to keep you safe between shifts. It would be bad enough to have your transmission go out, but to blow both because the tranny slipped and caused you to bounce off the rev limiter, well, that would be crap frosting on a very $hitty day. I had a VB mod on my car when I was running nitrous, I just noticed the RPM needle went a tad bit higher than NA, but like I said, it was nothing be concerned about, and it was not slipping.

 

well in my case i will mostlikely spray while in highway with OD off. so worring about the shifting wont matter since there wont be any shifting. unless i go real high in mph and have to shift to 4th. if i do run from a stop or roll or w/e ill just use a pushbutton for now. till i collect enough to buy a window switch. So i should be fine with just tranny cooler and dr mod.?

 

Keep it on the track. I also would not recommend using nitrous for top speed runs, most you should use it at a time is 15-16 seconds, if you have it tuned right.

 

But if the a/f ratio is good why would it be a bad thing spraying for longer than that?

 

Saying you can only spray for 15-16 seconds at a time is like saying you can only boost (TC/SC) for 15-16 seconds at a time, which is a lie. The only thing that can happen perhaps if you spray for a while is that the bottle pressure drops, and the mixture becomes slightly more and more rich, which is safe. If you can explain in technical terms what the problem with doing that is, i'll stand corrected. But i just don't see it.

 

Oh yes, I must just be here to spread misinformation right? How long have you been running nitrous or boost? What your not considering is the severe temperature increases that are a byproduct of power adders. Run down the track with a properly setup nitrous system and you will be approacing 1400F on your EGT. Keep going past that, and you will soon be facing detonation, not to mention the fact that the stock radiator would not be able to handle the heat dissapation much beyond that. Can you do it and get away with it? Sure, there is a good possiblity. I popped a fuel line on a 100 shot dry system and it did not blow my motor... but I consider myself lucky. I said I would not recommend running for beyond that amount of time... Just because I do not recommend it does not mean it cannot be done, or has not been done. I try to promote engine longevity on these forums. We get too many people already who think that your engine is going to blow the second you turn the nitrous on, most of these rumors come from misinformation, or from someone who misused nitrous and blames the nitrous, not there own stupidity. There was a guy running a 120 shot about 4 years ago, tried to do a top speed run with it and broke a ring. I would like to know in what situation you would find good reason to run nitrous or boost for beyond 15+ seconds? On a tuned 100 shot, that is over 100mph, from a standstill, on a track, and your out of room. On the street, from a 40 mph roll, that would be over 120+ mph, and I am not about to advocate street racing. You know what kind of ticket you would get for doing 120+ mph using nitrous on the streets? What about turns, are you going to spray or boost right through all of those? My nitroused Maxima, boosted 240, and the boosted Maxima ive driven would all be well into the triple digets in 15+ seconds, and unless your on a long stretch of empty highway, you are going to have to let off before then to turn. Tracks are not setup to let you get that fast before you have to turn, and are VERY trying on the cooling system. Next time think about what you are saying before calling me out.

 

:Ohsnap:

 

mtrai760 you are right..i didnt take heat into consideration. also i didnt see nismology's statement as a call out towards you, just simple discussion, but anyway. I agree with what you are saying but you are mentioning 100 shot 120 shot etc.. Would what you say about the temperature apply for a small shot, i kno it obviously will, but if i just want to spray a 35 shot or 50 shot, would i really need to be worried about it?

 

You make good points, but you were saying it like it's the fact that it's nitrous that will prevent you from running it for long periods of time. If it's true for nitrous, it's true for any other power adder. It almost goes without saying that the chance for engine failure goes up the longer ANY power adder is used at WOT. I just want you to explain to me how nitrous is different than turbocharging or supercharging in it's effect on combustion chamber temps and potential engine failure assuming the a/f ratio is in check.

If you have nothing useful or germane to add to this discussion, stand down...

 

well i personally have sprayed for at least a mile straight at top speed but i have payed the price. i've done it many of times with no problems but this one time cost me my motor. like the guys said you can spray as long as you like but at your cost, thats why they say spray for only ten seconds at a time. you can also spray in between shifts wont cause any harm to the motor but will eventually lead to clutch failure without the proper tranny set up.

 

It does not greatly differ from s/c or t/c, other than the fact that it initially greatly lowers the temp inside the combustion chamber, that is, until the combustion process completes, then the temps are near even. A proper A/F ratio does not take into account other things happening in your engine. Have you considered the stress on your engine at 5000+ rpm, what about for extended period and extreme loads? What happens to your oil temps during that period? What temp is your piston reaching? Even with a proper A/F ratio, you exceed NA temps by a couple hundred degrees. While that may be fine for short periods, it is IMO, not sustainable. My evidence is the numerous engine failures Ive seen over the years from people who have tried to push the top end and lost. There have been several failed VQ's on these forums because of this. It is my OPINION, that most people do not have a need to use power adders for more than 15 seconds at a time. This is not to say you cannot let off for 15-20 seconds and go again, but be prepared to pay to play.

 

ok now that we have that clear, which window switch do you recommend?! i kno NOS has one alot of the mustang guys use, and MSD has another. i want one i can really trust since it is a key item when activating the nitrous.