grey99max

iTrader: (12)

I'm updating the nitrous plumbing from -4AN to -6AN , from the trunk to the Y-connector in the engine compartment.

Hear are some pictures to show the difference in the inside diameter of the tubing. The large roll of -6AN is 16 ft long and is the newest, triple-insulated "race" tubing.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...s/Dscn1519.jpg

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...s/Dscn1520.jpg

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...s/Dscn1521.jpg

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...s/Dscn1522.jpg

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...s/Dscn1525.jpg


Come on spring !

SonicDust187

iTrader: (11)

I thought the 20923 used 4an lines stock.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

You are correct - I was having a brain-f*rt when I wrote the message.

Even my NX invoice says "6AN x 4AN x4AN Y-connector" .....

All the parts seem to look OK - the bottle nipple, bottle nut, and larger mainfold have larger passages, the hose looks like my garden hoses on the outside, and the Y-connector for nitrous is huge inside.. see photos-...

Just what I need for a 200-shot adventure.

SonicDust187

iTrader: (11)

Wait, so you got 6an or 8an? I think 8an might be overkill for you.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

No, I got the parts to upgrade nitrous lines from -4AN to -6AN.

The 16 ft -6AN "triple-insulated race hose" does look like a 3/4" garden hose, though. One of the pix shows side-by-side with the stock fuel lines and the new nitrous hose.

This setup should flow much better than the stock lines - but mostly this will make a spectacular purge-plume at staging!

??Why would a -8AN line be overkill?? Not that I'll ever need a 1/2" hose for anything except washing the car..... The 15lb bottle has the latest Hi-Flow valve, and there will be an -6AN fluid passage from the trunk to the front, up to the Y-connector for the two N2O solenoids. Probably big enough for a total 200-shot of nitrous.....

SonicDust187

iTrader: (11)

It just hit me, can the solenoids really support 150shot? Or will those need to go also?

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

I had the same thought - but with two pairs of N2O / fuel solenoids to provide spray, I should be OK up to 200-shot combined. I've sprayed one pair at 100-shot settings, and that worked so well I had to buy JClaw's traction bars.... The Walbro 255lph pump and AERO FPR seems to work OK, so I got lots of 104 octane fuel at the nozzles.

I presently use a 75-shot + 75-shot combination on the track, and that has worked well this season. Just no traction from the slicks if I get into spray too early...

I'll probably dyno-tune after the nitrous plumbing updates, and maybe I'll get up the nerve to try a 75-shot + 100-shot combination. Maybe - if the A/F can be made good at lower shot levels. But first, the plumbing needs upgraded..

SonicDust187

iTrader: (11)

its best to use the biggest shot possible in lower gears. But your slicks are guys too small to handle the power.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

I was eyeing some 26x10x15 M&Hs .. that's 1 1/2 " wider than my 23 / 8.5 /15 M&Hs.

I need to:

A. Find out if the present engine setup can take a 175-shot or 200-shot total.

B If so, tune the whole thing.

C. Get bigger slicks.

D. Add another spray nozzle to help with launch. ? 50 + 75 + 75 maybe? I can stage these steps to help with traction.. Tune again.

E. Get the 3.5L ready for install, because that junkyard 3.0 won't live forever..

SonicDust187

iTrader: (11)

Maybe and I mean maybe the motor can take 175 or 200 but only if you run 116 octane and some timing retard along with 3 step colder plugs. If I were you I would ask to borrow someones bigger slicks and see how they work for you. Plus the 3.5 would be sweet. But if you going to swap the 3.5 in then get cams.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

You should have no problem with the solenoids, I have run a 150 from a single NX setup and thats spraying out of the hole doing a 1.7 60' on 22x8x15's. I also ran stock plumbing with the exception that I only had a 6' nitrous line because the bottle was in the front seat which does make a difference vs the 18' standard line. The main thing I concerned myself with was the pressure, I ran a manual controlled heater and tried to keep right around the 1100 psi mark.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

That's good to know - I thought the solenoids were good for a bunch.

The stock 16 ft 4AN nitrous line just looks too small to me. I know the nitrous jets aren't very big, but pushing liquid through a 1/8" tube 16 ft long must have some pressure drop - hence the bigger line (garden hose). Might as well make the entire fluid path 6AN, right? Got the parts for that.

I do have a NX pressure regulated heater on a 15lb bottle, so pressure doesn't drop much at the end of the quarter - the 10lb bottle did drop a lot more - hence the 15lb bottle.

Many thanks for your shift_fast concept - I keep finding more things to do with it! Shifting at 6400 and cutting the second stage during the shift made a serious difference in performance and shifting speed. Amazing.

SonicDust187

iTrader: (11)

Its funny how jime is able to hook 150 shot and you are not with same slicks (I think).

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

I run only Sunoco 104 (blue) or VP Racing 103 (red), both of which are formulated for very high compression engines and nitrous oxide users. Only unleaded for me.

I use the "shaved ground" plugs and with the side-gap of .035 and my voltage booster running, I'm good...

Spray a 3.5L.. ???

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

He's better than me.

MAXDADDY98

iTrader: (6)

Man I need to get to Work on Finishing my Setup

MAXDADDY98

iTrader: (6)

Jime and Grey99max are you guy coming to Maxus 07 in Chicago? I will be Traveling to Canada next month.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

I haven't decided..... Maxus '06 was kind of a bust - not much of a turnout for a national event.

Of course, those Chicago ORGers might have some new ideas.....

MAXDADDY98, you need to hook up that fogger manifold !! You gotta have some experienced nitrous guys around there.. Just do it ! and take videos..


.......

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

I think you will need to run higher bottle pressure with the larger line, since the larger line will allow more nitrous inside the line, bottle pressure will drop faster during the run

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

The point of using the larger tubing was to eliminate pressure drop from trunk to engine, at higher flow rates. This way, I could increase the jetting to higher shot numbers, and not have pressure loss.

I won't use any more nitrous - that's controlled by the jets in the nozzles. A heated 15lb bottle doesn't drop pressure nearly as much as a 10lb bottle. I've tried both.

At 150-shot levels, I can make only 4 and 3/4 passes before the bottle is empty, or at least not spraying liquid, and refills are around 7 to 8 lbs. So, the 15lb bottle has 7 to 8 lbs left inside that I can't get to.

Maybe the valve has a short pickup tube, or is adjusted wrong? Has anyone else opened their bottle to check the pickup tube?

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

I was talking about the bottle pressure, I maybe wrong but I wondering how much does your bottle psi drop from the start to the end of the race

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

I was talking about the bottle pressure, I maybe wrong but I wondering how much does your bottle psi drop from the start to the end of the race

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

It starts in the green and ends in the green - from 1050 psi to 950 psi, I think...

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

hey I was doing some nitrous research cause I am looking to put nitrous in my V8-S10. And I was reading up on how some guys are getting the power to the ground cause s10's have 0 traction.

Anyway long story short, since you have a dual stage nitrous kit maybe this setup will help your traction problems

1st stage 50shot
2nd stage 100shot
Now the way it works is you use the 1st stage to get out the hole, then turn off the 1st stage go right into the 2nd stage then around the 330ft mark turn the 1st stage back on so your spraying with the 1st and 2nd stage to finish the run. This setup is almost like the progressive kit but without pulsing the noids to death. This maybe cheaper then buying another set of slicks

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

V8-S10, eh? Now if was a FWD, you could do something.... Sounds like you might need a modified rear suspension with link suspension, kinda like the Mustangs use to keep the car level while trying to pick up the front.

Naw, I can hook with the whole 150-shot combination after about 300'. I don't know what's up with the launch, though. Once in a while, I hook pretty good, but usually it's a 13.3 ET - too slow...

I probably need to experiment with launching a little easier and rolling into the first stage of spray, then hitting second-stage. I've been thinking about a 3rd stage for another 50-shot after I get into 3rd gear. I've still been eating most street cars early, but sometimes being edged out at the traps.

But first, plumbing upgrades and dyno tuning....... I know it's running fat, but a serious tune will unlock whatever's left in the motor.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

well I still have the maxima but I am almost done with modding it once I hit 13's maybe a 3.5-swap later down the line, I bought the s10 early this year when my old max got totaled and started modding it till I bought the max I have now and havn't really touched the truck since.

Naw, I am not going to go crazy with the rear suspension just traction bars, auburn or eaton posi, adjustable drag shocks up front and a set of m/t street e/t's which I already have. This with a 100shot of nitrous should put my in the 12's with no problems

good luck with the dyno tune

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

What size M/T ETs do you have for the truck? I can see needing the posi rear end - zero traction, like you said.... or lock the diff if you're staying off the street. Maybe some ballast over the rear axle.

Actually, you might be able to use a dual-stage nitrous youself, on that truck. Hummm...

Back in the day, I built a '63 Econoline van with a cammed, headered, dual-quad Boss 302 mounted in the rear of the cargo compartment, sitting in a cradle that pivioted in the front and was welded to the rear axle (4.56 Chevy locked). Talk about no traction - with 10" slicks, it was point-and-shoot. Couldn't steer it - front wheels weren't on the ground much in the 1/8 mile.
Ah, glory days....

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

I have 275/50/15's. I run them at 17-18psi with this setup I am pulling 1.9-60ft's but can only launch at idle anything higher and I will just spin.
I am either going to put the battery in the bed or weld a plate over the right back tire so I can stack weights over it.

I do not plan to spray till 2nd gear till I get the posi and traction bars
dual stage would be nice I will have to see, but a single stage with a 75 shot should put me at low 13's

whitem1ke88

iTrader: (2)

whoa........

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

I just finished installing the larger ( much larger!) 16ft 6AN race hose from the trunk to the engine compartment. I had to drill another 7/8" hole in the firewall, up high under the dash, on the driver's side... I used my Milwaukee Close Quarters drill, and a fresh step bit that goes up to 7/8". Once I got up under the dash, making the hole was pretty easy. That type of bit is really good at making small holes into bigger ones - one step at a time. The 6AN hose was a really tight fit when running it through the cabin, on the driver's side, under the carpet. Man, that is a big pipe!

The new nitrous pipeline is now connected at both ends, and is ready for a field test - and we have rain/snow predicted.....

I tried blowing through the original 4AN 16ft hose, and it's very hard to move any air through it. The 6AN pipeline is much easier to blow air through. This should be interesting.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

good luck can not wait to see what happens this spring

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Me, too.... There's more there, I think. I just haven't figured out the best solution - yet....

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

Hey I read your comments on the injen intake on vqpower.com and what you did to make it work better. I have 1 from my last maxima but did not install it on the new maxima yet cause I did not like the lose of torque and throttle response below 3k rpms. Do you think a heat shield over the cone is worth getting or should I sell the injen and get the ebay intake that goes thur the fender or a k/n panel filter.

Also did you go back to the dyno yet

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

I like my Ingen - now. Sucking in cold air works much better than hot air. A heat shield? Maybe, if you move the intake filter over in front of the transmission... I did that, and made an opening in the splash shield to let in air from underneath. That worked very well, but I didnt drive in the rain.... The long tube sucking in outside air is the goal.

I now have a spare hood to hack on - its getting a couple of scoops on the leading edge for more cold air so I can finish the front and rear belly pans sitting in the garage. So many projects, so little time...

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

I went out this afternoon to play a bit with the locking torque converter and to spray a shot or two with my new "Alaskan pipeline".

I had installed a switch to control the torque converter clutch directly. I can switch it ON as soon as I get rolling, and can go through first, second, and third using the old manual shift_fast. You can tell that the engine is connected directly to the transmission when the clutch is locked.

OK - this works. Now for some nitrous - I had warmed a 10lb bottle up with a heat lamp, so I could connect it and go. (It's about 40 degrees here, and the roads and highways are full of cars this weekend, but at least the sun is out.

I went to my favorite on-ramp, and had to wait for a couple of civilians to clear, but I rolled in first, locked the clutch, eased up to 3000, and nailed the first 75-shot stage - Whooo - the 10" DRs broke loose and I hit the rev limiter five times before I let up. That was exciting! but I ran out of room, and went out on the interstate for a while until I found a break in the traffic, brought the engine up to 4000 in second gear (still with clutch engaged) and nailed the first stage again. The car broke loose again and drifted until I let off - I like this! Granted, the pavement was cold, but dry and no sand, and the BFGs can't hang on now....

I am using the bigger -6AN pipeline from the trunk to the front, and I really think it makes a difference. I know purging is entirely different - the plume looks like a humpback whale blowing now.. Yes, I've seen them in Hawaii.. After closing off the bottle, it takes a lot longer to drain the pipeline dry.

There wasn't enough room to hit both stages today - plus I probably would have spun out the car - but now I'm closer to a dyno tune - just need to upgrade the exhaust. I am going to tune and race with the clutch engaged - I think I'll use another MSD switch to turn it ON above 3000 RPMS...

EDIT: Maybe connecting the clutch lockup to the WOT switch relay would be better? I can see this working well at the strip, so I can still stall up to 2800 at the tree, launch with the throttle, and when I go WOT, I spray and lock the converter. Well, it sounds better....

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

did you try any runs with the t/c in normal mode

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Nope - there wasn't much running room out there.... I would have liked to run a before-after test on the torque converter lockup, but first I drove around for a while playing with the TC clutch and got used to it, then decided to make a couple of nitrous runs.

So I went to my favorite on-ramp to try a first-gear 75-shot blast, where I've been before, and surprised the heck out of myself. Then I got out on the interstate and waited for a clear space while running in second gear and blasted the first 75-shot - and surprised myself again. I don't know what contributed most, the "Alaskan pipeline" or the locked clutch, or maybe both together, but the kick in the back and the spinning DRs were quite a shock. I like it.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

I just came back from running the on-ramps and Interstate tonight, armed with the leftovers of my 10 lb hot bottle. Well, first I launched with the shift_fast in first gear and the clutch locked - and I quickly hit the rev limiter a couple of times.. It makes the car bounce around on the road.

I put the shift_fast back into Normal mode, put the tranny into Drive, made sure the clutch was off, and made another standing-start launch. This was more normal, the tires broke loose and spun until the car went into second gear, and still definitely pulled harder.

I turned around at my usual exit, to go the other way, got out on the highway in second gear, still clutch-off, and nailed it. The car jumped hard, blasted up to 80 in a heartbeat, I nailed the second stage and let off at 105, a few seconds later. This time, no massive wheelspin or sliding. Weather conditions were almost identical to last time out.

I then headed home and scouted a 4-lane close to home until there was no traffic for 1/2 mile, stopped, powerbraked, and nailed it. Same deal - massive wheelspin in first, shifted to second, nailed the second stage and ran up to 100 MPH rather quickly.

Engaging the torque converter clutch makes a definite and serious improvement in how the car launches and pulls. The new nitrous pipeline also makes a definite difference in power. Using both at the same time is - exciting - ....

With the clutch on, the first gear became uncontrollable on the 10" BFG DRs. Second gear breaks loose easily, as well. I never tried a first and second stage highway run with the clutch engaged - I'll need more room to try that.

Maybe tomorrow - it's supposed to be reasonable weather again.

glenmoormax

iTrader: (13)

That is awesome to hear, I have been meaning to post here.

So do you think the small nitrous line, once pressurized, and once you spray, you think it has a hard time "keeping up" to pressurize the 125-150 shots wwe were using? I can see how for a 75 it would be fine, this makes me wonder, if unless I was at max pressure, I wasn't NEAR a 125 shot, which at times I knew I wasnt. Nice work, I won't be dooing this mod, but I will be still hooking up some nitrous, in case I need it to get my 11's..

636specman

iTrader: (1)

instead of double staging your system, why havent you gotten a true progressive controller?