Progressive conrollers
03-17-2007, 01:15 PM
#1
Progressive conrollers
Hey I was looking into getting a progreesive controller for my other car, right now I am leaning towards dynotune or the nx mini controller
does anyone have any comments about these controllers good or bad
does anyone have any comments about these controllers good or bad
03-18-2007, 08:05 AM
#3
Originally Posted by streetzlegend
Dont do it, just get multiple stage nitrous instead. progressive controller is hard to work with, are not perfect. and two stage is simpler =) and also cool saying "i have two stage nitrous setup" lol
What he said ^ ^ ^ - heck, install three stages - I'm going to..
No personal experience w/progressive controllers. I chose two stages and glad I did - there's less drama in changing jets and when to cut in stages. My first stage sprays at WOT, and the second stage has a floor-mounted switch box.
Now the 4th gen nitrous master Jime used a progressive controller and was very successfull with it after he had the setup figured out, but I went with what I could figure out for myself. Progressive controllers are pre-programmed. A two-stage can be driven as conditions change.
The third stage will spray when into third gear, I think. It hasn't been installed yet - just a bucket of parts and hoses right now. I've got lots to do before I hit the track this season...
03-18-2007, 12:27 PM
#5
Originally Posted by t6378tp
the controller will be for my truck not the max, so it would be cheaper and easier to intall an controller than to install and new or 2nd nitrous plate
Oh - I misunderstood which car you meant...
How much N20 are you planning for on the truck, anyway? seems like a 400-shot should do it.......
03-18-2007, 01:06 PM
#6
Originally Posted by grey99max
Oh - I misunderstood which car you meant...
How much N20 are you planning for on the truck, anyway? seems like a 400-shot should do it.......
How much N20 are you planning for on the truck, anyway? seems like a 400-shot should do it.......
I am planning to run a 150shot but for now 100shot will do. 100shot should get me low 13's high 12's and a 150shot will place me solidly into the 12's
I currently have a 10bolt open rear with 3.73's that = zero traction in a pickup. I can not launch with any spray or I will just spin so my options were a delay box and rpm switch or progressive controller. the controller will do the same thing as the delay box and rpm switch but cheaper and with more control + it's just 1 unit which = less wires and less things 2 wrong
03-18-2007, 01:50 PM
#7
Originally Posted by t6378tp
No problem, I started playing with the truck again since I will not take the max back to the track till I intall the exhaust which should be here next week
I am planning to run a 150shot but for now 100shot will do. 100shot should get me low 13's high 12's and a 150shot will place me solidly into the 12's
I currently have a 10bolt open rear with 3.73's that = zero traction in a pickup. I can not launch with any spray or I will just spin so my options were a delay box and rpm switch or progressive controller. the controller will do the same thing as the delay box and rpm switch but cheaper and with more control + it's just 1 unit which = less wires and less things 2 wrong
I am planning to run a 150shot but for now 100shot will do. 100shot should get me low 13's high 12's and a 150shot will place me solidly into the 12's
I currently have a 10bolt open rear with 3.73's that = zero traction in a pickup. I can not launch with any spray or I will just spin so my options were a delay box and rpm switch or progressive controller. the controller will do the same thing as the delay box and rpm switch but cheaper and with more control + it's just 1 unit which = less wires and less things 2 wrong
What do you have planned for the controller, and how can you program it?
Maybe launch it NA, wait a couple of seconds and begin spraying at a low level and raising the "shot" up to max in 10 seconds or so ? I'm just guessing, of course. I can't launch with spray - have to wait until the car moves a bit, then spray the first 75-shot and get into the second 75-shot while still in first gear. hold that all the way. I'll add a third stage for third gear this season - parts are sitting in garage.
03-18-2007, 03:01 PM
#8
Originally Posted by grey99max
What do you have planned for the controller, and how can you program it?
Maybe launch it NA, wait a couple of seconds and begin spraying at a low level and raising the "shot" up to max in 10 seconds or so ? I'm just guessing, of course. I can't launch with spray - have to wait until the car moves a bit, then spray the first 75-shot and get into the second 75-shot while still in first gear. hold that all the way. I'll add a third stage for third gear this season - parts are sitting in garage.
Maybe launch it NA, wait a couple of seconds and begin spraying at a low level and raising the "shot" up to max in 10 seconds or so ? I'm just guessing, of course. I can't launch with spray - have to wait until the car moves a bit, then spray the first 75-shot and get into the second 75-shot while still in first gear. hold that all the way. I'll add a third stage for third gear this season - parts are sitting in garage.
I do not want the controller pulsing too far into the run since it does wear down the soleniods but once I get some traction bars and a eaton posi unit I should be able to set the controller for 15-20% off the line and 4-5sec into the run but this is all theory right now and till I get the controller and the weather breaks I'll be doing it by hand and will launch n/a and start spraying 2nd gear to see what happens
03-18-2007, 03:09 PM
#9
03-18-2007, 05:01 PM
#11
Originally Posted by black95max
i know this guy that going to put the progressive controller on my nitrous setup. he says its going to work great. why is it not good? is it just cause u cant program it?
which brand r u getting?
03-18-2007, 05:47 PM
#12
Originally Posted by t6378tp
From what I seen you have to start with atleast 1% spray, which for me will only be 1-1.5hp then I will set the rpm switch for 2500-5000rpms and set the ramp to deliver full power at 5 seconds into the run. I figure at 5sec I will far enough into 2nd gear that I should not spin.
I do not want the controller pulsing too far into the run since it does wear down the soleniods but once I get some traction bars and a eaton posi unit I should be able to set the controller for 15-20% off the line and 4-5sec into the run but this is all theory right now and till I get the controller and the weather breaks I'll be doing it by hand and will launch n/a and start spraying 2nd gear to see what happens
I do not want the controller pulsing too far into the run since it does wear down the soleniods but once I get some traction bars and a eaton posi unit I should be able to set the controller for 15-20% off the line and 4-5sec into the run but this is all theory right now and till I get the controller and the weather breaks I'll be doing it by hand and will launch n/a and start spraying 2nd gear to see what happens
03-19-2007, 05:45 AM
#13
Originally Posted by grey99max
Good luck on that - pulsing solenoids still makes me nervous.
You can also send your NX solenoids in every year for a free rebuild if you wish. That info came from Jeremy Hicks who was their race director until a year or so ago.
03-19-2007, 05:33 PM
#14
Originally Posted by t6378tp
do you really think he will say anything else, why not install the nitrous and controller yourself
which brand r u getting?
which brand r u getting?
03-19-2007, 06:58 PM
#15
Originally Posted by Jime
Pulsing solenoids are ok if they are NX because they are guaranteed for life. I have run a progressive controller for 2 years with no problems. Easy to setup and combined with a wideband it can shut the system down if the a/f goes lean. I believe NX has the best controller. You sent the ramp time and level with your mouse and makes for easy transition vs a sudden burst, plus it will shut down between shifts and even keeps track of the gears so you can run a different setup for each gear.
You can also send your NX solenoids in every year for a free rebuild if you wish. That info came from Jeremy Hicks who was their race director until a year or so ago.
You can also send your NX solenoids in every year for a free rebuild if you wish. That info came from Jeremy Hicks who was their race director until a year or so ago.
03-19-2007, 08:20 PM
#16
Originally Posted by black95max
well hes suposed to be really good with that stuff and im not thats why im not doing it my self. im not sure what brand it is i will ask him. this is his website. http://www.nisstuner.com/
"William Tronco an ASE Certified Technician, is known
for having the best reputation when it comes to top quality
workmanship and expertise in dealing with todays high
performance Sport Compact vehicles. Weather your
looking to make your car a little faster, handle better or get
time slips from the track so good that you'll have to frame! "
"Jim Wolf Technology after market parts manufacture of Nissan and infinity
performance parts including JWT Pop Charger intake systems, "
Yeah, I'm picking nits, but this web page is weak... I would be cautious about using what is offered here. I hope the shop is really great and the web page designer is inexperienced.
03-20-2007, 01:25 PM
#18
Originally Posted by grey99max
I hope he tunes better than he spells... and punctuation is weak, too....
"William Tronco an ASE Certified Technician, is known
for having the best reputation when it comes to top quality
workmanship and expertise in dealing with todays high
performance Sport Compact vehicles. Weather your
looking to make your car a little faster, handle better or get
time slips from the track so good that you'll have to frame! "
"Jim Wolf Technology after market parts manufacture of Nissan and infinity
performance parts including JWT Pop Charger intake systems, "
Yeah, I'm picking nits, but this web page is weak... I would be cautious about using what is offered here. I hope the shop is really great and the web page designer is inexperienced.
"William Tronco an ASE Certified Technician, is known
for having the best reputation when it comes to top quality
workmanship and expertise in dealing with todays high
performance Sport Compact vehicles. Weather your
looking to make your car a little faster, handle better or get
time slips from the track so good that you'll have to frame! "
"Jim Wolf Technology after market parts manufacture of Nissan and infinity
performance parts including JWT Pop Charger intake systems, "
Yeah, I'm picking nits, but this web page is weak... I would be cautious about using what is offered here. I hope the shop is really great and the web page designer is inexperienced.
03-20-2007, 07:12 PM
#20
Originally Posted by black95max
dam your more **** then i am. lol
And yeah, I'm kinda **** - "success is in the details", you know...
.
.
11-27-2007, 02:39 PM
#22
What do you have planned for the controller, and how can you program it?
Maybe launch it NA, wait a couple of seconds and begin spraying at a low level and raising the "shot" up to max in 10 seconds or so ? I'm just guessing, of course. I can't launch with spray - have to wait until the car moves a bit, then spray the first 75-shot and get into the second 75-shot while still in first gear. hold that all the way. I'll add a third stage for third gear this season - parts are sitting in garage.
Maybe launch it NA, wait a couple of seconds and begin spraying at a low level and raising the "shot" up to max in 10 seconds or so ? I'm just guessing, of course. I can't launch with spray - have to wait until the car moves a bit, then spray the first 75-shot and get into the second 75-shot while still in first gear. hold that all the way. I'll add a third stage for third gear this season - parts are sitting in garage.
I take some screen shots and the program so you can see what I am talking about
11-27-2007, 08:16 PM
#23
my current setup and a time based ramp set at a .8sec delay starting a 33% and ramps up to 100% 2.5sec into the run. the cool thing is you and control the flow of the ramp and it's not a set line
I take some screen shots and the program so you can see what I am talking about
I take some screen shots and the program so you can see what I am talking about
open just to make a tiny progressive change.I hope the Dynotune unit works. All I have to do is turn a **** to make subtle changes in ramp % and time.
11-27-2007, 08:56 PM
#24
So you already have the controller? Which one did you end up getting? I assume you got one of the NX controllers since you are referencing to making changes with a computer. That's the only thing I don't like. When I'm at the track, I don't want to have to have my crappy laptop open just to make a tiny progressive change.
I hope the Dynotune unit works. All I have to do is turn a **** to make subtle changes in ramp % and time.
open just to make a tiny progressive change.I hope the Dynotune unit works. All I have to do is turn a **** to make subtle changes in ramp % and time.
right now I am only using the controller for the max as a rpm switch with 1st gear lockout and will only spray 2nd, 3rd and 4th if I get there
I do not really mind the whole labtop thing cause it gives you more control over the ramp. for example you and have it in a straight line or curve almost anything you can think of
11-27-2007, 09:08 PM
#25
yes I have 2 nx fjo controllers 1 for my max and another for my truck
right now I am only using the controller for the max as a rpm switch with 1st gear lockout and will only spray 2nd, 3rd and 4th if I get there
I do not really mind the whole labtop thing cause it gives you more control over the ramp. for example you and have it in a straight line or curve almost anything you can think of
right now I am only using the controller for the max as a rpm switch with 1st gear lockout and will only spray 2nd, 3rd and 4th if I get there
I do not really mind the whole labtop thing cause it gives you more control over the ramp. for example you and have it in a straight line or curve almost anything you can think of
11-27-2007, 09:15 PM
#26
but here are a few pic's of some of the setting and different ramps you can do with the controller. you can use either time or rpm based ramp to controller both stage either indenpently or have the 2nd stage activate based in the 1st stage.
these are not my setting just something I made up so you can have a idea of how much more control you have with this controller over the dynotune unit. but if you do not like the idea of tuning with a labtop or do not have one then I would go with another brand
11-27-2007, 09:20 PM
#27
the other good thing about the kit is with auto's you can use a ramp based ramp and have the nitrous tapper off right before redline so the tranny can shift better
so it would be like start at 2500rpm at 50shot, 150shot at 6000rpms and 50shot at 6500rpms
so it would be like start at 2500rpm at 50shot, 150shot at 6000rpms and 50shot at 6500rpms
11-27-2007, 09:22 PM
#28
How much did the setup cost?
11-28-2007, 09:07 AM
#30
http://www.shopatron.com/product/par...56.26369.0.0.0
A new product from NX. $399 gets you multipoint progressive, no laptop required, AFR safety cutoff, controls your bottle heater, and a shift light function.
I really don't need all the extra bells and whistles. So I will probably still get the $149 Dynotune Progressive Controller and the $99 Dynotune AFR safety switch.
A new product from NX. $399 gets you multipoint progressive, no laptop required, AFR safety cutoff, controls your bottle heater, and a shift light function.
I really don't need all the extra bells and whistles. So I will probably still get the $149 Dynotune Progressive Controller and the $99 Dynotune AFR safety switch.
11-30-2007, 04:32 PM
#31
http://www.shopatron.com/product/par...56.26369.0.0.0
A new product from NX. $399 gets you multipoint progressive, no laptop required, AFR safety cutoff, controls your bottle heater, and a shift light function.
I really don't need all the extra bells and whistles. So I will probably still get the $149 Dynotune Progressive Controller and the $99 Dynotune AFR safety switch.
A new product from NX. $399 gets you multipoint progressive, no laptop required, AFR safety cutoff, controls your bottle heater, and a shift light function.
I really don't need all the extra bells and whistles. So I will probably still get the $149 Dynotune Progressive Controller and the $99 Dynotune AFR safety switch.
11-30-2007, 04:59 PM
#32
Well I thought about getting it yesterday. Funds are kind of low right now. But I'll probably end up getting it soon anyway.
I talked to Dan at Dynotune and he was nice enough to pull the Progressive Controller and the AFR Lean Switch and put them in his desk. That way, they won't go on backorder.
BTW, the AFR switch got released a couple days ago!!! I highly suggest you get one!
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...p?idproduct=67
If you talk to Dan, tell him Aaron with the Maxima referred you. I don't get anything from it, but it's just nice to let him know where you are getting your information. The LS1tech.com crowd are buying these up quickly I assume. I mentioned to Dan that the Maxima crowd is slowly starting to learn about Dynotune.
I talked to Dan at Dynotune and he was nice enough to pull the Progressive Controller and the AFR Lean Switch and put them in his desk. That way, they won't go on backorder.
BTW, the AFR switch got released a couple days ago!!! I highly suggest you get one!
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...p?idproduct=67
If you talk to Dan, tell him Aaron with the Maxima referred you. I don't get anything from it, but it's just nice to let him know where you are getting your information. The LS1tech.com crowd are buying these up quickly I assume. I mentioned to Dan that the Maxima crowd is slowly starting to learn about Dynotune.
Last edited by Aaron92SE; 11-30-2007 at 05:03 PM.
11-30-2007, 07:47 PM
#33
Well I thought about getting it yesterday. Funds are kind of low right now. But I'll probably end up getting it soon anyway.
I talked to Dan at Dynotune and he was nice enough to pull the Progressive Controller and the AFR Lean Switch and put them in his desk. That way, they won't go on backorder.
BTW, the AFR switch got released a couple days ago!!! I highly suggest you get one!
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...p?idproduct=67
If you talk to Dan, tell him Aaron with the Maxima referred you. I don't get anything from it, but it's just nice to let him know where you are getting your information. The LS1tech.com crowd are buying these up quickly I assume. I mentioned to Dan that the Maxima crowd is slowly starting to learn about Dynotune.
I talked to Dan at Dynotune and he was nice enough to pull the Progressive Controller and the AFR Lean Switch and put them in his desk. That way, they won't go on backorder.
BTW, the AFR switch got released a couple days ago!!! I highly suggest you get one!
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...p?idproduct=67
If you talk to Dan, tell him Aaron with the Maxima referred you. I don't get anything from it, but it's just nice to let him know where you are getting your information. The LS1tech.com crowd are buying these up quickly I assume. I mentioned to Dan that the Maxima crowd is slowly starting to learn about Dynotune.
question, will I run into any problems if I replace a o2 sensor with a wideband. I think my rear o2 is going bad or has gone bad cause my gas mileage sucks and I have a cel. also why is it cheaper to get this and a wideband o2 then a wideband gauge and o2
these are the 2 that I am talking about
Innovate Wideband Gauge XD-16 kit --COMPLETE KIT-- (028.2) 399.00
LC-1 Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge --Round Display (026) 269.00
Last edited by t6378tp; 11-30-2007 at 07:55 PM.
12-01-2007, 04:58 PM
#34
this is nice I was already looking to get a wideband but did not have the funds for the 02 and gauge .. maybe I can talk my girlfriend into getting me this for xmas .. I'll def tell him maybe they'll become a sponser for the org
question, will I run into any problems if I replace a o2 sensor with a wideband. I think my rear o2 is going bad or has gone bad cause my gas mileage sucks and I have a cel. also why is it cheaper to get this and a wideband o2 then a wideband gauge and o2
these are the 2 that I am talking about
Innovate Wideband Gauge XD-16 kit --COMPLETE KIT-- (028.2) 399.00
LC-1 Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge --Round Display (026) 269.00
question, will I run into any problems if I replace a o2 sensor with a wideband. I think my rear o2 is going bad or has gone bad cause my gas mileage sucks and I have a cel. also why is it cheaper to get this and a wideband o2 then a wideband gauge and o2
these are the 2 that I am talking about
Innovate Wideband Gauge XD-16 kit --COMPLETE KIT-- (028.2) 399.00
LC-1 Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge --Round Display (026) 269.00
A wideband setup includes a wideband o2 sensor, a controller, wiring, and usually a wideband gauge.
A wideband o2 sensor can also act as a narrowband. So yes, you can put the wideband sensor in the location of your stock narrowband as long as the bung threads are the same.
I don't know the difference between those two kits you showed. You'll have to link me. If you found them on the Dynotune website, then I'm guessing the more expensive one has datalogging capabilities and the other one doesn't.
12-01-2007, 05:50 PM
#35
I am having trouble understanding your question.
A wideband setup includes a wideband o2 sensor, a controller, wiring, and usually a wideband gauge.
A wideband o2 sensor can also act as a narrowband. So yes, you can put the wideband sensor in the location of your stock narrowband as long as the bung threads are the same.
I don't know the difference between those two kits you showed. You'll have to link me. If you found them on the Dynotune website, then I'm guessing the more expensive one has datalogging capabilities and the other one doesn't.
A wideband setup includes a wideband o2 sensor, a controller, wiring, and usually a wideband gauge.
A wideband o2 sensor can also act as a narrowband. So yes, you can put the wideband sensor in the location of your stock narrowband as long as the bung threads are the same.
I don't know the difference between those two kits you showed. You'll have to link me. If you found them on the Dynotune website, then I'm guessing the more expensive one has datalogging capabilities and the other one doesn't.
here is the link: http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...idcategory=116
thanks you pretty much answered the question looks like the a/r saftey switch and the cheaper wideband can not datalog and the other can
now is it possible with some type of software to connect my labtop directly to the wideband o2. if you have some good links I could read, I really have not started reading up on o2's yet since I was not going to get one till track season starts again
but the one you posted about is so cheap and xmas is right around the corner maybe I can get it early
12-01-2007, 06:23 PM
#36
here is the link: http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...idcategory=116
thanks you pretty much answered the question looks like the a/r saftey switch and the cheaper wideband can not datalog and the other can
now is it possible with some type of software to connect my labtop directly to the wideband o2. if you have some good links I could read, I really have not started reading up on o2's yet since I was not going to get one till track season starts again
but the one you posted about is so cheap and xmas is right around the corner maybe I can get it early
thanks you pretty much answered the question looks like the a/r saftey switch and the cheaper wideband can not datalog and the other can
now is it possible with some type of software to connect my labtop directly to the wideband o2. if you have some good links I could read, I really have not started reading up on o2's yet since I was not going to get one till track season starts again
but the one you posted about is so cheap and xmas is right around the corner maybe I can get it early
I have the PLX Devices, which was one of the first to have a linear signal. I've had it for several years now and it's been holding up fantastic! I needed it to be linear b/c of the Zemulator software I was messing with. I aborted that project since I wasn't able to work out all the kinks with it. But it was VERY nice to be able to datalog my wideband readings along with the corresponding rpm readings.
I don't know of any software out there. But if you find something, PLEASE let me know. B/c I would love to be able to datalog my wideband while at the track. Now that I think about it, I may be able to make the Zem software work. I'll have to give that a shot and make sure I can connect without connecting it to the ECU EPROM.
But for now, the AFR lean switch has a Max/Min recall! I told Dan that this is a GREAT addition! And it ignores lean spikes less than a few tenths in length. And you can adjust the amount of "ignore" time. I don't have any lean spikes that I know of, but a lot of wet kits on other vehicles have this problem like the 4.6L Stang.
12-03-2007, 10:49 AM
#37
almost forgot to add, if you or some else buys the fjo controller and it does not have version 6.0 it is not plug and play with windows xp and you will need to manually install the drivers.
the newer controllers come with updated sofware that works fine or you can download a update from their website that fixes the problem
just a fyi
the newer controllers come with updated sofware that works fine or you can download a update from their website that fixes the problem
just a fyi
Last edited by t6378tp; 12-03-2007 at 10:51 AM.
12-19-2007, 10:57 PM
#38
FYI
when I was at the dyno shop my nitrous did not turn on, so I reset the controller thinking I did not program the tps and just ran the kit without the fjo controller while I was there
so when I got it home I reprogramed the fjo controller and tested the nitrous again on the street and it still was not working properly. Well come to find out progressive controllers and zex boxes do not like each other
so the problem is that I had the ground from the zex box going to the controller so it could tell it when to turn on and off but this causes a delay cause the zex box is not activated and has to turn on then open the soleniod. I only have the system set right now as a rpm switch with 1st gear lockout but the problem would only get wirse if I were to pulse it. So as you can see this sucks
so to make it work I had to wire up the zex box as norm, this way the zex box is on and activated when I flip the arming switch. then I cut the tps wire and run one end to the 30 pin on a relay and from the 87 pin to the zex box and use a switched 12v source for 85 and the ground from the controller to activate the relay to 86. this works great but sucks cause now the system is limited to the speed of the relay.
yet another reason to ditch the zex box and just wire the soleniods directly to the controler, I can not wait till my parts come in
since my fjo controller already has a tps switch I will be selling the one from the zex box soon for anyone still using a mechical wot switch and wants to convert over. the tps switch can also be used to activated a drop mod for auto's
when I was at the dyno shop my nitrous did not turn on, so I reset the controller thinking I did not program the tps and just ran the kit without the fjo controller while I was there
so when I got it home I reprogramed the fjo controller and tested the nitrous again on the street and it still was not working properly. Well come to find out progressive controllers and zex boxes do not like each other
so the problem is that I had the ground from the zex box going to the controller so it could tell it when to turn on and off but this causes a delay cause the zex box is not activated and has to turn on then open the soleniod. I only have the system set right now as a rpm switch with 1st gear lockout but the problem would only get wirse if I were to pulse it. So as you can see this sucks
so to make it work I had to wire up the zex box as norm, this way the zex box is on and activated when I flip the arming switch. then I cut the tps wire and run one end to the 30 pin on a relay and from the 87 pin to the zex box and use a switched 12v source for 85 and the ground from the controller to activate the relay to 86. this works great but sucks cause now the system is limited to the speed of the relay.
yet another reason to ditch the zex box and just wire the soleniods directly to the controler, I can not wait till my parts come in
since my fjo controller already has a tps switch I will be selling the one from the zex box soon for anyone still using a mechical wot switch and wants to convert over. the tps switch can also be used to activated a drop mod for auto's
12-20-2007, 07:03 AM
#39
Yeah, the Zex box must go! Hope you get it all sorted out correctly.
I've been thinking about my progressive controller. The Dynotune Nitrous Progressive controller is only $149 but it only can do linear time based pulsing. I don't mind the linear really, it's just the time based will only allow me to gain traction and nothing else.
But an rpm based controller will allow me to gain traction and spray more nitrous above certain rpms in each gear. I would like to spray a 200 shot only above 5000 rpm in top of 2nd gear, but when I shift into the bottom of 3rd gear, I need the nitrous to back down to about a 150 shot, then instantly ramp up again.
For now, I may still get the Dynotune Progressive Controller b/c it's simple, inexpensive and requires no computer. But I may decide to get rid of it one day. Can you recommend a better controller that can do rpm and doesn't require a computer? I am looking for the cheapest rpm progressive controller option.
I've been thinking about my progressive controller. The Dynotune Nitrous Progressive controller is only $149 but it only can do linear time based pulsing. I don't mind the linear really, it's just the time based will only allow me to gain traction and nothing else.
But an rpm based controller will allow me to gain traction and spray more nitrous above certain rpms in each gear. I would like to spray a 200 shot only above 5000 rpm in top of 2nd gear, but when I shift into the bottom of 3rd gear, I need the nitrous to back down to about a 150 shot, then instantly ramp up again.
For now, I may still get the Dynotune Progressive Controller b/c it's simple, inexpensive and requires no computer. But I may decide to get rid of it one day. Can you recommend a better controller that can do rpm and doesn't require a computer? I am looking for the cheapest rpm progressive controller option.
12-20-2007, 09:24 AM
#40
Alright. I think I know what controller I'm getting! The Trick Performance Progressive Controller!
This is sold by NX known as the Octane Series and it's also sold by Nitrous Oulet and Dynotune from what the forums at ls1tech.com have told me.
http://www.trickperformanceproducts....0019_00029.htm
I am interested in the P gauge shown here:
Here is what the website says:
I highly suggest you read the manual. It really explains all the features!
http://www.trickperformanceproducts....nual_ver_d.pdf
For $399, I think it's a bargain! The features I'm interested in are Multipoint RPM or Time Progressive, AFR safety cutoff switch, bottle heater control, bottle pressure gauge and you can do it all without a laptop!!
It appears this is a better option for me than to purchase the Time based Controller and AFR Cutoff Switch from Dynotune. That will cost $250 and it won't give me an RPM Progressive like I want. Since I've heard that Dynotune is a Trick Performance Vendor just like NX and Nitrous Outlet, I will call Dynotune first since they have proven to have good customer service.
This is sold by NX known as the Octane Series and it's also sold by Nitrous Oulet and Dynotune from what the forums at ls1tech.com have told me.
http://www.trickperformanceproducts....0019_00029.htm
I am interested in the P gauge shown here:
Here is what the website says:
P is the only gauge in the world that is a progressive controller with mutli-point ramping capabilities. Its computer processor controls the nitrous system completely including the heater. It is the world's first and only gauge that is completely graphical and digital, with state of the art computer screen display. Its fully programmable system can work on any single stage nitrous system. You simply program the unit to your nitrous system. P is not just a gauge, it is a controller as well. P controls the heater, shuts the nitrous system down; if you are running lean or low on nitrous or fuel pressure, progressive controller, window switch, TPAS switch, nitrous pressure gauge, shift light. A warning flash will let you know you have a problem and where that problem is. P will dispaly, your(nitrous, boost, fuel, or oil pressure), O2 reading, is the heater on or off, nitrous progressive level, rpm, inside or outside the window switch setting, wot activation. The full color graphic display allows you to control and monitor your nitrous system with just a quick glance at the face. You have 8 main viewing screens to choose from, with just a push of the control button. Fits any 2 1/16 gauge pod.
• Progressive controller (time or rpm based)
• RPM window switch
• Wide-Open-Throttle detection when used with factory TPS or WOT switch.
• Supports Fly-by-Wire TPS rising or falling
• 5 Point variable Progressive ramping (time or rpm based)
• Shift Light
• Rich l Lean Cutoff (when used with a wideband)
• Air/Fuel inputs Digital or Analog
• Multiple wideband capabilities
• Heater controller
• First gear lockout / delay
• 8 different Main Viewing screens.
• Programmable Power UP screen and Arm screen
• Multiple pressure choices
• Pressure display ( Boost, Nitrous, Oil or Fuel)
• Progressive controller (time or rpm based)
• RPM window switch
• Wide-Open-Throttle detection when used with factory TPS or WOT switch.
• Supports Fly-by-Wire TPS rising or falling
• 5 Point variable Progressive ramping (time or rpm based)
• Shift Light
• Rich l Lean Cutoff (when used with a wideband)
• Air/Fuel inputs Digital or Analog
• Multiple wideband capabilities
• Heater controller
• First gear lockout / delay
• 8 different Main Viewing screens.
• Programmable Power UP screen and Arm screen
• Multiple pressure choices
• Pressure display ( Boost, Nitrous, Oil or Fuel)
http://www.trickperformanceproducts....nual_ver_d.pdf
For $399, I think it's a bargain! The features I'm interested in are Multipoint RPM or Time Progressive, AFR safety cutoff switch, bottle heater control, bottle pressure gauge and you can do it all without a laptop!!
It appears this is a better option for me than to purchase the Time based Controller and AFR Cutoff Switch from Dynotune. That will cost $250 and it won't give me an RPM Progressive like I want. Since I've heard that Dynotune is a Trick Performance Vendor just like NX and Nitrous Outlet, I will call Dynotune first since they have proven to have good customer service.