t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

I went to the track today and ran a 14.1@100mph on a 100shot. My best n/a run about3weeks ago was a 14.5@93mph both with 2.2 60ft's but I had a better 330 and 1/8 time with spray and the 2nd 1/8 the car just fell flat on it's face. when I launch the nitrous kicks in and pulls hard for till the 330ft mark then dies off, it feels like soon as a shift into second the juice is gone. I am running out of idea's as to what the problem can be. I found a bad ground about 2weeks ago and thought the problems was fixed cause it sprays everytime now. But it does not feel like it is staying on the whole time. I am thinking about getting a mechnical wot switch and bypass the controller to see what happens but 1st I am going to scan the car for a bad KS and check the plugs.

On a good note I stopped at the casnio on the why home and won some money so the whole trip to the track did not cost me anything

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

well I called the company that makes the controller and they said the tps signal has to be within a 2% range of the wot setting or it will not activate. the tech said I may not be pressing the pedal all the way to the floor cause the nitrous is pushing me back in my seat and to change the setting from 100% throttle position to activate to 90 or 95%.

VQrebuild96

iTrader: (1)

i see in your sig. u were auto. What happend did it start to slip with the juice?

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

the tranny was fine the TC started to go bad

Grand_hustle17

iTrader: (22)

hmm still not a bad run

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

remember I ran a 14.5 n/a and only picked up 4tenths on the juice, I should have ran low-mid 13's

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

well I reprogramed the tps to activate at 90% throttle and that seemed to solve the problem. For the 1st time every the 1gear lockout option worked. I made a few passes on the street and raced another car and everything is fine so far so I am going back to the track this week to see what can run

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

That's good. I am using a physical WOT switch behind my TB. It doesn't take up much room and is hard to notice.

What car is this you are talking about? A 4th gen 5spd?

I see you said the TC went bad. How did that happen? What were the symptoms?

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

I bought a physical wot switch just encase this did not work sometimes technology is over rated. The car I raced was a SC'd 4.5gen 5-speed it was just a friendly race so I could see how the car was running.

As for the TC is started when I did some back to back nitrous runs on a 90+ day and the tranny over heated. after that the tranny was slow to engage into 1st gear or downshift. once I got rolling the car would shift into 2nd,
3rd and 4th fine but when I would come to a light the car did not want to downshift and would hold the gear. Then from a stop it did not want to go into 1st gear and I would have to tap the gas to get it into gear. I drove like this for over 6months till I saved up for a 5-speed swap. MAN that was a long 6months with no nitrous

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

What part in the TC broke? They are pretty beefy components. It sounds like it was just a bad tranny in general.

Did you have a tranny temp gauge?

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

the tc was not completely broken it was going bad but knew what signs to look out for and just babied it. plus I took it to a tranny shop and he said the samething, he also suggested that I just drive it till it dies cause he would charge me the same for a rebuild with hd clutches and high stall tc

either way the tranny was dying and I was not going to pull the tranny to just replace the tc so I just swapped everything

so arron do you anything new in the works

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

well I went to the track to test out nitrous since it worked this weekend without nay problems and guess what it did not work at the track. but I was able to run a new n/a pb of 14.3@95mph.

I was able to get the nitrous to kick in at the track but it was not hard at all so I'll be check for loose connections, kinks or clogs and all else fails throw in the old school wot switch

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Man that sucks. Does it feel like it surges like it's either ON or OFF? Or does it feels consistent, but not as much of a HP increase as it should be?

What shot are you spraying? 100?

Bottle pressure is usually the biggest reason for a 'lower than expected HP increase'. But I know you have that under control. I have also had problems with debris in the lines, I think. But ever since I installed my nitrous filter on the solenoid itself, the problems went away. The 75 shot always feels like a 75 shot.

I would imagine that if you had problems with the TPS switch, then it would surge on and off.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

You need a bigger nitrous line.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

Yes I am spraying a 100shot. The bottle psi is always at 1050. I tested the nitrous on the side road at the track and only once did the nitrous hit hard then it fell off and the rest of the times it just hit really soft like a 50shot.

To give you a idea it would only chirp 2nd gear which is what I can do n/a and nothig in 3rd. I tested the tps with the bottle off by reving the car while holding the soleniod to see if I can feel them click and by activating the nitrous with the bottle off to see if the car boggs since it's getting gas only and it did everytime even on the highway during the ride home.

I am running out of idea's cause from what I seen last nite changing of a tps to a wot will not effect how hard the nitrous is hitting. I also have a fuel psi gauge and that was fine also. today or tomorrow I am going to check my plugs and the nitrous line for kinks and trash in the line.

any suggestions, I do not think the line is too small cause I dyno'd the car and picked up 88whp with the 100shot jets

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

this did cross my mind but when I dyno'd the car I was able to pickup 88whp from the 100jets and I my have been able to get the full 100 if I let the car cool off

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Yeah. I would undo the feed line going into your nitrous solenoid. Aim it up in the air, crack the bottle for a half second, then seal it back up and see if the problem gets any better.

Also, if you do have an inline nitrous filter, I would open it up to inspect the filter element and clean it if necessary.

It very well could have something in the lines that can't pass through the solenoid itself. Have you looked closely in the solenoid to see if there is any garbage hung up on the mesh screen?

Back when I first installed my nitrous kit, I had the same problem. Sometimes my 75 shot would hit hard and sometimes it would feel like a 30 shot. But every time I undid the nitrous feed line to purge it, the problem went away.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

How long is your main nitrous line? If it's -4AN and 16 ft long, it's too small for a 100 shot, IMHO. I know it's WAY too small for a 150-shot setup - that's why I put in a -6AN Alaskan Pipeline from NX. Heck, the purge plume was four times bigger with the pipeline!

If you open up both ends of the line, can you blow through it? Betcha can't.. The line may have been kinked during install, and blocks N2O if it shifts around.

My new motto = " Spray = Pray"....

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

ok so I disconnected the nitrous feed line from the soleniod and opened the bottle a few times, then disconnected it from the bottle and blew thur it, then hooked everything back out and disconnected the nitrous line from the nozzle turned the car on a sprayed it a few times and it came out with enough psi to move my hand alittle. so I'm going to test it out tonight on a side road and see what happens. so it looks everything on the nitrous end is working fine, so I'll check the plugs next

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

Well I pulled my plugs and they look the pic #6. I am wondering if they look like this cause I leave them in for daily driving or if the plugs are just too cold even with the nitrous to burn off the crap. either way I'll be replacing the plugs this weekend with 1step colder since I never had a problem with the plugs looking like this before.

http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Sp...s_catalog.html

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

So your plugs are too rich now? Like maybe you're not getting enough nitrous at the nozzle? If you disconnect the nitrous line from the nozzle - and disconnect the fuel solenoid for the test - then when you test-spray the nitrous, you should get a 3-ft plume out of the line from the solenoid. You should have to tie down the nitrous line when spraying - 1100 psi makes itself known.


Plugs? -they should look like this:

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Yeah, I always keep my plugs in near perfect condition. It's easier to read new plugs anyway.

And you're right about the pressure. It should be a VERY powerful burst when you test fire the nitrous while holding the feedline in your hand. I leave the fuel line attached and make sure there is no fuel pressure on the lines. When I bump the WOT switch next to my TB, it does shoot about a 5 foot plume. Really powerful! First time I did it, it scared me.

If the car runs good NA, it makes me think it's a clog or kink as you mentioned.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

If the car runs good NA, that's fine. If you spray and you have weak nitrous delivery, then you go very rich, because you are adding fuel without adding nitrous. That's kinda what I was hinting about. Those plugs look rich.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

well when I disconnected the nitrous line from the nozzle and sprayed it, the line alomost jumped out of my hand the 1st time and that was at 900psi. the cloud was about 3ft or a arms length and the tip of the line was nice and frosty.

I am going to change the plugs and test it out today

oh and my plugs do not even look close to that

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

They sure look rich - but a fresh set of cold copper plugs should fix that right up. (and gap them close - .035 to start - side-gap them if you got the grit)

You have solid N2O pressure, you have fuel, you will have new plugs - looks like you're out of excuses !!! .. Bring on that 13.4 ET !!



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Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Sorry, I meant to say that it DOES appear he has a clog or kink.

The only other things I can think of is a fluttering relay or loose connection causing the nitrous to surge on and off.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

Ok I went out to buy some 1step colder plugs and sprayed the nitrous and it cuts on a off like it's suppose too but still not hitting hard. so when I got home I checked the bottle psi and it was around 900psi. I pulled the nitrous line back off the nozzle ran the ground from the nitrous niod directly to the battery since it normally goes to the controller with the 12v still coming from the relay and held it there for a few seconds.

Well the nitrous line shot right out of my hand and the blast from it hit me in the chest with some force and I noticed it was not cold, the tip of the line got alittle cold but normally there is frost everywhere. So I did it again spraying a wrench on the ground and it did not frost up a get cold but air is coming out. So I called the local speedshop I deal with and they said maybe the pickup fell off inside the bottle or the bottle is empty. I thought this was werd cause there was alot of air shooting out and with some KICK and the other day at the track I had 7lbs left. But even if the bottle is almost empty bottle why would it still have so much air inside but no nitrous. Since I do not have a extra bottle I am going to borrow one from a friend to see what happens. If everything works I'll have the bottle checked out and try getting it filled somewhere else to see what happens or maybe get another one.

I sure hope this is the problem

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Have you weighed the bottle?

For a 10lb bottle, it should be around 14lbs completely empty. My bottle is exactly 14lbs with the bottle heater pressure switch, gauge, and blow down tube connected. When my bottle gets below 3lbs of nitrous, the nitrous starts to surge and it feels like 50% of the power is missing sometimes.

Pressure is pressure. You still have air in the bottle. It's the liquid nitrous that is cold. So if you have an empty bottle without any nitrous in it, you can still build up the pressure by heating the air that's in the bottle. At 900psi, the air is going to shoot out at a very powerful rate, even though the bottle is empty.

I would first weigh the bottle. If it weighs below 17lbs, empty it the rest of the way, unscrew the main valve and make sure the syphon tube is in tact. I bet it's ok. Then you can fill the bottle and see if the problem gets better.

I have lost track of how much nitrous is left many times. I've scratched my head more than once wondering what's going on with my nitrous system. When I weigh the bottle, I find out it's empty.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Truth - I have a digital bathroom scale for weigh-in for the bottles. Best way in the world to keep track of how much you have left. I put a strip of paper tape on the bottle so when it's filled, I record the weight, and since I already recorded the empty weight, I know how much is on board. I weight after a track event, so I know how much is left in there. I could never get reliable N2O delivery when the bottle was half-empty - lots of surging at that point, with different bottles ??? I used to refill at the half-empty point.

Just picking a nit, but "It's the liquid nitrous that is cold. " isn't true - after all, its liquid and hot in the bottle. When you spray, the liquid expands and becomes gas at the nozzle - and absorbs heat at the same time, making the gas stream very cold. (Liquid to gas). I don't think you can create 900psi of pressure from air in the bottle - there must be a liquid in there, if it weights much more than an empty bottle. A bottle full of gaseous air would still weigh the same as empty.

What you described sounds like low nitrous levels, or some other gas in the bottle. Maybe argon, or another welding gas? The gas should come out and be super-cold where it goes from liquid to gas.

Weirdness...

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Yes you are nit picking. lol It's not cold while still in the bottle. But I was referring to spraying it. It's the nitrous that's going to burn your fingers, not air.

And it's definitely possible to get way over 900psi without any liquid in the bottle.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Hah! another nit! the nitrous will freeze your fingers, not burn them. OK, I'm done....

About that 900 psi - have you seen that from bottles with no nitrous, or at least no fluid in the bottle? Because if there is just air or nitrous vapor in the bottle, creating 60 atmospheres of pressure in an empty hot bottle seems - unusual. ??? Just asking - that's never happened to me, so I'm curious. That bottle must have been really hot.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

The characteristics are similar to a burn.

Yes, I've seen many bottles hit pressures of over 1000psi without ANY liquid in them at all. I also use to work closely with a scuba shop years ago. The mixtures that they put in those bottles have no liquid and they hit pressures of over 3000psi. Our bottles are only 1800 rated, but they can still hit those pressures.

I've also had my nitrous bottle hit 1100 psi when it had less than a pound of nitrous in it. Yes, it was very hot to the touch, probably around 120 degrees surface temp.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

well I weighted the bottle and it was only 16lbs with the warmer and gauge but when I started testing the system the bottle was around 20lbs. So I figured at 20lbs there should have been enough nitrous in there but maybe my scale was not zero'd out.

Yesterday I borrowed a fellow org member's bottle which was about 21lbs and made a few passes at 925psi and it felt ok. I still do not think it was hitting that hard but he runs a 75shot and thinks it did even with me pulsing the niods. I opened my bottle till nothing was left inside and will get it refilled maybe I got a bad batch of nitrous with the last refill but this time I will test it on my S10, maxima and check for the frost

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

"success is in the details".

You're all right. you know. You filter out the cr*p that people hand you along with useful details, and just listen to what makes sense to you and your problems. Just don't let it go to your head. Plus you race Chevys - the mark of a real man...

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t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

has anyone heard about this. I went to another shop to get my bottle filled and they asked what ratio do I use to fill the bottle. he said some shops will add 1lb of air or more and 9lbs of nitrous or less when filling s 10lb bottle.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

I certainly have never heard of that. It should be directly pumped from the motherbottle they have.

Did you ask him why some shops would do this?

Did he say he would directly pump in an air mixture to the tank? Or did he imply that he was simply going to fill your tank to 9lbs instead of 10?

And how do you measure out 1lb of air?

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

he filled it with all nitrous 10lbs cause he hits the hardest but that some other shops fill it was a air to nitrous mixture.

I never heard of this but I never ask before either so I just said give me 100% nitrous . from what I heard this guy is mr nitrous and knows what he is talking about. I am going to ask a few other shops to see what they say

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

ok so I called the speedshop I deal with and told them what the guy said about the nitrous and they laughed like I was a crazy man. they said they never heard of this either and said the bottle should be all nitrous no air. so I am guess this is a sales pitch or something.

anyway I got my bottle filled and will cracked in open to see if there is a difference between this and the old refill

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

That's what I was thinking. I have never heard of anybody not wanting a good nitrous fill.

As soon as you crack the nitrous bottle open, if you stick a wrench in front of the nozzle, it should frost up instantly. I'm sure it will. I just hope everything works in your car as planned.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

Well today I confirmed the bottle is good guess I had a bad batch of giggle juice. I went to the track with my truck since I know everything is ok with that nitrous system but the bad news is after 2years of spraying a 150shot on a stock motor it's starting to show signs that it's had enough.

today the while juicing the truck started missing and lost power, #1 piston hit the spark plug and pressed the ground strap on the electrode. I checked all the other plugs and they were fine this was the only one. after talking it over with a few racers, shop owners, friends etc. looks like it's between my piston top, rod or bearings. the funny thing is it only happens on the juice if I run on the motor it's fine.

so much for breaking 11's on a stock motor