grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Good luck .....

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Triple check everything, and then triple check again, make sure your solenoids are working perfect, no clogs, the proper jetting, the wiring is perfect. 75 to 150 is a big jump, be safe n make sure the streets are clear. And dont spray to low rpm on a high gear. KABOOM.

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

Thanks for the advice. I've gone through everything VERY thoroughly. My rpm switch is set to kick in at 4k so no low rpms for me. I'll probably just quickly spray third gear. Hopefully I can keep some traction...

I haven't sprayed it yet because I've been trying to find some new bkr7e-11's. I might have to order them from the internet...

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

I use the 6's with a 175-shot - no problems yet....

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

just but bkr7e's and gap them yourself

personally the 2 step colder plugs suck with nitrous since it's either on or off. With boost they may work fine but when I would drive around n/a they would not get hot enough to clean themselves

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

Really?? I have some 6's in my engine right now they look a little on the hot side (but still safe) with my 75-shot. Currently, my timing is fairly aggressive for nitrous which might be why the plugs are on the hot side. I don't have any signs of detonation...

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

I'll definitely buy some and gap them myself. I just can't find them at any local auto parts stores??

What do you recommend besides the 2-step colder plugs?

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

ask for them bkr7e and not bkr7e-11 and they should have them, I paid like 1.90 each

also I forgot your timing is advanced and would not suggest running a 175shot with it. I have a jwt ecu and a 3.5 with the timing map very close to 350z. I know those guys can safely run between a 75-125 with this setup

I have not seen anyone run anything higher than that without race gas and something to detect knock and pull timing

since this is my dd I am not going pass a 100shot on the jwt ecu and for everything higher the stock one

almost forgot not sure if it will work on a maxima but msd has a timing advance/retard box that will pull anywhere from 2-20 degrees of timing when you activate your nitrous

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

Thanks alot! I called napa and asked if they had some ngk 4644 (bkr7e) plugs and they had 12 in stock. I just got back from buying 6 of them.

I looked up what the 11 meant and now I realize why you were telling me to just gap them myself. (Even though I'd still have to re-gap the bkr7e-11 for nitrous ....)

My timing is slightly advanced for my 75-shot, but it will be retarded for my 150 shot. Currently, it's around 20 degrees initial advance and works great with the 75-shot. I plan to set it at 10 degrees initial advance for the 150-shot. It might be a little drastic, but better safe than sorry. After I spray the 150, I'll check the plugs and go from there.

FYI, my compression ratio is 10.5 to 1. Z32 NA pistons...

I could be wrong, but I would think that a VE is a little bit stronger than a VQ30. I'm not baised, I have a VQ in my other car and I love the VQ.

I definitely wouldn't spray more then 100shot with a JWT and no way to retard timing. I used to have a JWT ecu and I used to spray with it. I never had any problems, but I would retard my timing when I would spray. I compared the timing and fuel maps between the JWT ecu and the stocker (both VE ecu's). IIRC, the JWT had 7 degrees more advance at 4600 rpm, plus the fuel maps showed that JWT was a bit leaner. I wonder what a comparison like this would reveal for the VQ ecu?

That would be interesting. I'll have to do some research.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/3...questions.html

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

I've seen that in the past, but I forgot about it. Thanks.

Comparing the blue and orange lines, it looks like there's about 2-7 degrees advance from stock to JWT with about a 5-6 degree average advance. I'm surprised your motor is still together after a 100 shot.

The values that I was comparing are the bin files pulled from the JWT and stock rom chips.

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

I feel like an idiot now. After looking at other people's log files, I began to realize that my timing calculations were wrong. I assumed that the ecu's values were added to the base timing set on cam position sensor. My assumption was wrong because the timing value on my ecu is 15 for idle and that would mean that the stock initial advance would be about 30 degrees at idle. I don't think so! So now I understand that my ecu's timing values include what the cps is supposed to be set to from the factory, which is 15 degrees. All of the values in the table are supposed to be total advance values. Sorry Jime...


FYI, the 3 digit values are where the ecu looks for knock. To determine the actual advance, you subtract 128 from the three digit value.

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

When it stops raining and the roads dry up, I'll make some 150 shot runs, and report back with plug pics and afr log files.

I want J&S Safeguard, a dynotune afr cutoff switch, and nistune. Then I'll feel pretty safe. lol

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

I take that back, I'm using 62-35 @ 43psi.

grey99max what fuel pressure are you running with your 62-33 jets??

My car is ready to test the 150 shot, but it's still raining...

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

My AERO regulator is set at 45 psi.... and the plugs look good.... Your 43psi should work fine.

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

I sprayed the 150-shot in third gear and it ran good! My afr was low 11's. I pulled one plug and it looked like I need more timing. I'll pull the rest tomorrow and post a pic.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

did you spin the tires any

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

Nope, it needs more timing and less fuel. All of the plugs look almost identical.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

What RPMs did you spray in 3rd gear? and how did you decide that you need more timing ?? The A/F sounds safe, but you gotta learn to read the plugs - look at the ground strap and the top ring of the plug outer shell.

Just curious -

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

I sprayed from 4k to 6.5k. I decided that I need more timing because there wasn't any heat showing up on the ground strap. I figured that I would probably need more timing, but I decided to play it safe and see what the plugs revealed.

My fuel pressure was turned up to 46-47 psi when I made this run. Low 11 afr is safe but I would like it to be around 12 to 12.5. I'm going to turn my fuel pressure down to 43 psi and make another pull.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Dropping your fuel pressure probably won't make much difference - better luck with changing the fuel jet. What's wrong with low 11s for A/F? So how did it feel to spray that load?

How about posting a couple of closeup pix of those plugs ??? I'd like to see them...

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

with that size shot I would keep the a/f in the 11's are not going to make that much more hp, maybe alittle more tq but thats it. Remember you have to be carefully not to exceed the tq limits of your rods or it does not matter what gas your using

I would set the fuel back to where you had it and tune the nitrous with the jets

I have been running my a/f around 12.8 on spray with a 85shot but will retune for 12.5 with the 3.5 and mid 11's with a 150shot

with that size shot you may want to look into a cutout , it's very important to get the hot exhaust out with nitrous

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

No it probably won't, but the car is supposed to run at 43psi.

It didn't pull as hard as it should have for a couple of reasons. The bottle was almost empty, the timing was very conservative, and the fuel pressure was a little bit high.

Yesterday, I dropped the fuel pressure to 43psi and advanced the timing a little. When it hit in 2nd gear my clutch slipped a tiny bit, then my tires let go and I let off. It surprised me because I have an act pp and a 6-puck disc. Then, I tried to spray 3rd, but I soon realized that my bottle was empty. I thought that there was quite a bit left, but I was wrong.

I would have taken a pic of the plugs, but I wanted to go for another run. I'll take some pics after make some better runs with a full bottle.

BTW, my 3rd-4th shift fork broke today. It's totally unrelated to my nitrous adventures, but it's just something I have to fix again.

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

I'm not worried about my rods. lol. The VE has the same rods and crank as a VG30DETT...

I'm not really tuning with the fp. I just thought that it wouldn't hurt to raise it a little for my initial run. Now that I've made my initial run and everything worked great, I turned the pressure back down to where it's supposed to be.

I've thought about getting a cutout and I probably will. Currently, I have a full wsp 2.5" exhaust and a magnaflow muffler.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

what was your bottle psi on those passes cause if they were low than I would not make any changes till you a pass with good bottle psi

I am telling you making a pass at 1000-1100psi compared to 600-800psi is a big difference

accordingtou

iTrader: (41)

I ran my setup open & closed just to see the diferences...
I averaged a gain of 4mph going from stock cat back to a 3"cutout in the same night.
An exhaust cut in place of your stock cat will help drastically. If you dont buy a cutout @ least drop the cat or y-pipe for a pass or two.You wont be disapointed

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

My pressure is always around 1050psi. I know how important it is to have the correct pressure.

My last run was down on power. The pressure was ok, but when I purged it, I could only see air coming out....

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

I was planning on removing the cat when I got to the track. Thanks for the advice though.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

any update

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

Not yet. I just fixed the broken shift fork and I haven't filled my bottle yet. I will probably get it filled on Tuesday.

krazy6

iTrader: (5)

In for the results!

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

I might go to the track on friday!

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

I have a decent bathroom scale, accurate to .2lb, that I use to weigh all my bottles. That's the only way I can tell how much I have left - and I always change the pair when I get to 50% remaining N2O. At 150-shot, you may use 2lbs per pass, depending on when you engage the warp engine.

When I get them filled, I weigh each bottle and mark it on a long strip of paper tape stuck on the bottle, then weigh each one as I feel the need. I found that the refillers noticed the weights and don't short me on the fills. Imagine anyone doing that....


.

krazy6

iTrader: (5)

Nice, can't wait to see what you run!

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

Me too...

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

I've never ran my car at the track and I hope I do ok. I'm removing my sway bars, strut tower bars, back seat, front seat, amp rack, and I'm bolting on some oem brakes for the DR's. I was going to run the DR's at 12-14 psi and start spraying the 150 shot as soon as I hit 2nd gear (40 mph). I'm pretty sure that the BFG DR's won't the 150 shot in 1st... What do you guys think?

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

That's a good idea.

@ warp engine

Jime

iTrader: (10)

Your DR's probably won't hold the power until you hit 2nd.

Just remember that you will lose most of your et reduction from nitrous by not spraying in 1st. If you only sprayed in 1st and no other gears, your times would be much better than if you spray from 2nd up.

What I am really trying to say is YOU NEED SLICKS.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

dr's will not hold, trust me I have a 13.4@110mph slip to prove it and that was only with a n/x 85shot

krazy6

iTrader: (5)

+1, try to sell the drag radials and get some 24.5 slicks!