This is something I have just started used on my dual 15-lb bottles, because the 12-volt pads suck over 40 amps from my battery when they are heating. I use the hook-and spring version, because they are so easy to install and remove.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/23995/10002/-1#

When I want to warm up one or two bottles, I run an extension cord from a garage outlet and plug in the pad or pads. From 60* F up to full pressure takes about 12-15 minutes - instead of the usual +1 hour with the battery pads.

When I go racing - like yesterday at KCIR - I plug in a cord to the cheapo generator on the trailer and warm up the bottles, then wrap them in an insulated blanket - they stay warm for an hour or more, depending on outside temperature.

And my battery never goes dead while waiting in the staging lanes for an hour...

 

http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/prod...&cat=18&page=1

this is what I use and it sucks less power than the morso warmer and heats my bottle about 4times faster than the zex warmer I had

FYI and it wraps around the entire bottle like a sleeve and not just on a peice of the bottle

 

The wrap-around part sounds good, but your 300 watt pad draws 25% more power from the battery. When I'm trying to heat TWO bottles, the current drain is horrific - like over 40 amps. That will drain any battery within an hour or so.

If your battery is weak, and then you launch and get into two nitrous stages, that takes another 30 amps or so to hold the solenoids and such.

I ditched the battery pads and went to the 360 watt Moroso pads. This works much better for me.

 

We use good old fashion portable propane torches to heat our bottles & havent had one go boom yet. Been racing with Nitrous since 1994... Another good one is to heat your bottles in the bath tub with hot water first & then use your bottle heaters to maintain the pressure you want while your driving to the track. Ofcourse that all depends on how far the track is from you?

 

Any open-flame bottle heating is forbidden by NHRA tracks and any others I'm aware of - so I don't do that. You can get tossed out of sanctioned events. Kinda like fire jackets and no computers in the car.....

I have one local track, and others are 90-200 miles away. That runs down batteries on a cool day, while on the trailer. Why heat bottles in hot water if you can just plug in the Moroso heater pads for a few minutes? Of course that requires a small power generator, but it also runs a cooling fan for the engine while waiting between passes.

 

Sometimes i forget that all this usually takes place inside the enclosed trailor. But ya, we usually don't attempt to heat the bottles while the track officials are eye balling us?

As for using hot water to heat the bottle, it's been good luck for us. Our bottles reach well over 1100psi in a matter of about 3-5minutes when using hot water. It all depends if were sticking them in the bath tub or the kitchen sink? Like I stated before then we use the heaters to just maintain the tempature.

Another thing you might want to try is a automotive heat gun, since you have a generater already. That might help speed things along while your at the track without draining your battery???

 

Sometimes I wish I had an enclosed trailer..... especially when I'm in "hot water" at home. Say, how do you heat the water when you're at the track? Please don't say "with a torch". And what cars are you guys spraying, anyway?

I don't need a heat gun - I have the two Moroso heat pads on the two bottles in the trunk all the time, and just plug them in when I return to the trailer - since I have a generator running there. That also lets me run the fan, so the $167.00 1100-watt generator really earns its keep. Hummm - I could also run a smaller refrigerator as well, couldn't I?

No more battery-powered pads for me. The relay wiring is still there, but both pads are disconnected now.

 

Maybe I'm not spelling it out correctly. What I have been saying is to pre heat your bottles by heating them with hot water & then use your old "Bottle Heaters" to maintain the tempature. But ofcourse this was all based on your first post about your old bottle heaters draining your car battery... Obviously the generator & new heaters cures this problem when your at the track. But I just don't see you cruising around the streets with a generator running in your back seat to power your heaters when some crazy guy in a Z06 pulls up next to you & thinks he's the shizznit...

As for the cars there have been several.
1994 Z28 Camaro
1995 Jetta 2.0 5spd
1995 Jetta VR6
1998 Nissan Maxima SE
1990 Mustang LX Coupe SSP 351 windsor based (best pass 9.36 on a M/T DR)
1991 Mustang LX Hatch 351 windsor based (best pass to date 8.60 on a M/T10.5W)
And quite a few more vehicles also. We usually spray around 400+hp on the Stangs. Here is a video of the LX Hatch with the old motor. It's the very first race on the video. We won at this even & just recently have won the last 2 PSCA events in a row.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23a1_xi8flc

 

Of course you're correct about cruising the streets - if I ever did such a thing. How did the Jettas run with spray? I like the "351 windsor based" Mustangs - those wouldn't be closer to 400 cubes, would they? I study Engine Masters magazine closely.... 400-shots on the 'stangs is awesome - is this on pump gas? I actually have a 'stang guy with a similar setup living about a mile away, with a huge tank of Nytrus in the garage and a two-stage individual-nozzle setup with a 100-shot plus 200-shot jettings on a "351 windsor based" motor. That is a scary collection of tubing, with 16 nozzles on the intake manifold (one of the Edelbrock series).

A generator in the back seat? maybe in the trunk... hummmm.....

 

Actually we like to keep the displacement down for the sake of maintaing the higher RPM levels. We can spin these puppies pretty close to 8500rpm. As for the pump gas question we have those too, but that one runs C16 all the time because we like to put a bunch of timing in it, even on the bottle. It really depends what track were at. But we have pump gas killers too with complete stand alone fuel systems that we put the good octane in. As for the direct port systems you referenced we run NX twin gemini plates that we send out & have professionally flowed. Makes a big difference when you do that.

If your into the direct port systems the edelbrock E3 titanium foggers is where it's at. The only thing that IMHO is a better choice would be NX shark nozzles. They have a much higher flow capability. But either one is a great buy. They both give you room to grow...

 

With the VQ35 motor, I think fogger plates are out, but I have two Shark nozzles just ahead of the TB now and one more waiting for installation. ( just for the top end, of course). VP Racing Motorsport 109 (unleaded) keeps me in one piece and saves the O2 sensors for street driving...