what kit is best
what kit is best
Im not sure about a few thing b4 i go and blow my car up...lol...should i go wet or dry...only looking at idk 50-75 shot. my boy has a dry shot on his civic and that seems fine but idk bout the nissan(btw its a 2000 3.0 5spd). also would the fitting go after the Maf??? and would i go with just a universal sport compact set up??? any input would be great.
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A dry kit would go before the MAF, and I wouldn't recommend it.
The wet kit will be safer, goes after the MAF.
Dynotune makes great nitrous kits, and I also like NX (nitrous express). Zex has convenient packaging, as well.
Do some research on price and kit reviews (use google and your brain in conjunction, and I promise you can pull it off) to make your decision. Don't let us decide for you.
The wet kit will be safer, goes after the MAF.
Dynotune makes great nitrous kits, and I also like NX (nitrous express). Zex has convenient packaging, as well.
Do some research on price and kit reviews (use google and your brain in conjunction, and I promise you can pull it off) to make your decision. Don't let us decide for you.
Im not sure about a few thing b4 i go and blow my car up...lol...should i go wet or dry...only looking at idk 50-75 shot. my boy has a dry shot on his civic and that seems fine but idk bout the nissan(btw its a 2000 3.0 5spd). also would the fitting go after the Maf??? and would i go with just a universal sport compact set up??? any input would be great.
i have a dynotune 75 shot wet kit on my 2001 5 speed and i love it......pulls hard even without a bottle warmer..... get a bottle warmer and it will be a beast.... im getting a warmer in a few weeks!
check out www.dynotunenitrous.com
good luck with everything
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Both are high quality. I would use either edging towards the dynotune (personal preference).
Make sure to get a pressure switched bottle heater, TPS switch and window switch (can get all these at dynotune). Also make sure you get 1-step colder COPPER plugs. Use radio shack or cheap online stuff to make yourself a relay/fuse box to keep wiring under the hood clean and out of the way and use common grounds and power!
I'd also get a wideband with guage for an extra 150-250 dollars. That way you can roughly tune your nitrous A/F by changing out your fuel jets along with your bottle pressure. You can get extra fuel jets for cheap from dynotune or NX. For example on a 75 shot, you might use NX .24 for your fuel jet as a default, but find out that you're running 10.5:1 A/F and decide to change to your .22 jet and get a little leaner A/F. The wideband is also important for safety, to make sure you're not running too lean or rich and to warn you of fueling failure.
You should spend some time researching nitrous before you go through with this. You will need to spend between 800-1000 dollars to have a solid baseline nitrous setup that is safe.
Make sure to get a pressure switched bottle heater, TPS switch and window switch (can get all these at dynotune). Also make sure you get 1-step colder COPPER plugs. Use radio shack or cheap online stuff to make yourself a relay/fuse box to keep wiring under the hood clean and out of the way and use common grounds and power!
I'd also get a wideband with guage for an extra 150-250 dollars. That way you can roughly tune your nitrous A/F by changing out your fuel jets along with your bottle pressure. You can get extra fuel jets for cheap from dynotune or NX. For example on a 75 shot, you might use NX .24 for your fuel jet as a default, but find out that you're running 10.5:1 A/F and decide to change to your .22 jet and get a little leaner A/F. The wideband is also important for safety, to make sure you're not running too lean or rich and to warn you of fueling failure.
You should spend some time researching nitrous before you go through with this. You will need to spend between 800-1000 dollars to have a solid baseline nitrous setup that is safe.
Last edited by sparks03max; Jan 13, 2010 at 12:49 PM.
I'd also get a wideband with guage for an extra 150-250 dollars. That way you can roughly tune your nitrous A/F by changing out your fuel jets along with your bottle pressure. You can get extra fuel jets for cheap from dynotune or NX. For example on a 75 shot, you might use NX .24 for your fuel jet as a default, but find out that you're running 10.5:1 A/F and decide to change to your .22 jet and get a little leaner A/F. The wideband is also important for safety, to make sure you're not running too lean or rich and to warn you of fueling failure.
That is unless you have a direct port with equal distribution blocks. Then wideband that beast all day.
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Be careful with a wideband on a single nozzle kit. The mixture doesn't distribute right most of the time. So the wideband might read that you are running 11.5:1 a/f, but one of your cylinders can be dangerously lean. The only safe way to read your kit is to read the plugs.
That is unless you have a direct port with equal distribution blocks. Then wideband that beast all day.
That is unless you have a direct port with equal distribution blocks. Then wideband that beast all day.

How is the dry kit gonna add the extra fuel then?
The only kit I know that you can put the nozzle after the maf is the ZEX dry kit. This kit uses a vaccum line that attaches to the FPR to raise fuel pressure. Pretty much like a RRFPR.
Go put a dynotune dry kit on any car after the maf and watch it blow lol.
The only kit I know that you can put the nozzle after the maf is the ZEX dry kit. This kit uses a vaccum line that attaches to the FPR to raise fuel pressure. Pretty much like a RRFPR.
Go put a dynotune dry kit on any car after the maf and watch it blow lol.
How is the dry kit gonna add the extra fuel then?
The only kit I know that you can put the nozzle after the maf is the ZEX dry kit. This kit uses a vaccum line that attaches to the FPR to raise fuel pressure. Pretty much like a RRFPR.
Go put a dynotune dry kit on any car after the maf and watch it blow lol.
The only kit I know that you can put the nozzle after the maf is the ZEX dry kit. This kit uses a vaccum line that attaches to the FPR to raise fuel pressure. Pretty much like a RRFPR.
Go put a dynotune dry kit on any car after the maf and watch it blow lol.
How is the dry kit gonna add the extra fuel then?
The only kit I know that you can put the nozzle after the maf is the ZEX dry kit. This kit uses a vaccum line that attaches to the FPR to raise fuel pressure. Pretty much like a RRFPR.
Go put a dynotune dry kit on any car after the maf and watch it blow lol.
The only kit I know that you can put the nozzle after the maf is the ZEX dry kit. This kit uses a vaccum line that attaches to the FPR to raise fuel pressure. Pretty much like a RRFPR.
Go put a dynotune dry kit on any car after the maf and watch it blow lol.
btw hope you got a extra maf
You put any other dry kit on the car, you're not adding any fuel.
NOS also makes a dry sport compact kit that does the same thing. I had it before I bought dynotunes conversion wet kit.
http://www.holley.com/05122NOS.asp
http://www.holley.com/05122NOS.asp
$1000.00 for a NX setup...dam ... id wait a bit longer and go boost... too much $$ for rechargeable power.
But if you find a decent kit used with most of what you need, NX is nice proven kit. also think they warratny the solenoids(llc)
But if you find a decent kit used with most of what you need, NX is nice proven kit. also think they warratny the solenoids(llc)
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