Few technical infos on a NOS setup.
#1
Few technical infos on a NOS setup.
Hi guys, I was wondering if a NOS power adder is AFR tuned like turbochargers or superchargers?
I tuned my NA setup on my 4th gen to 13.1:1 but Which AFR should I be looking for to keep everything solid and reliable?
12.0 to 12.5??
Plan to run a 75shop wet ZEX.
Also, with a heated blanket from dynotune, is 950psi high enough. I believe 1050 is too high from reading the solenoids were freezing when operated in that pressure range.
Spark plug heat range is one or two step colder than stock so, copper 6's are good?? I have iridiums 6's actually but plan to run cheaper plugs as they are recommended by everybody.
Thanks for taking consideration helping a .org member going faster. I'd like to get 13.5 and lower with the juice at the track with bfg 2255015 drag radials. I get 14.5 at 98mph actually NA with CAI, udp, 2.5 mandrel exhaust, 00VI, VAFC2 tuned above 3500rpm and VI opening at 4600rpm, 5spd and street tires.
I tuned my NA setup on my 4th gen to 13.1:1 but Which AFR should I be looking for to keep everything solid and reliable?
12.0 to 12.5??
Plan to run a 75shop wet ZEX.
Also, with a heated blanket from dynotune, is 950psi high enough. I believe 1050 is too high from reading the solenoids were freezing when operated in that pressure range.
Spark plug heat range is one or two step colder than stock so, copper 6's are good?? I have iridiums 6's actually but plan to run cheaper plugs as they are recommended by everybody.
Thanks for taking consideration helping a .org member going faster. I'd like to get 13.5 and lower with the juice at the track with bfg 2255015 drag radials. I get 14.5 at 98mph actually NA with CAI, udp, 2.5 mandrel exhaust, 00VI, VAFC2 tuned above 3500rpm and VI opening at 4600rpm, 5spd and street tires.
#2
Let us know how it goes.
#4
I don't really recommend tuning with just the a/f ratio.
I would recommend you learn how to read the spark plugs.
That is the best way to tune a single nozzle nitrous car.
Just go with copper plugs. Buy a lot of them to start with so you have extras.
Iridiums get hot and can melt.
I would recommend you learn how to read the spark plugs.
That is the best way to tune a single nozzle nitrous car.
Just go with copper plugs. Buy a lot of them to start with so you have extras.
Iridiums get hot and can melt.
#6
THANKS GUYS, i really appreciate your help. I was planning a RMT setup but I already had the NOS kit at home. Wanted to sell it to finance the RMT but though twice before putting 2k$ on the car. Decided to give it a try then we'll see how it goes. Will post results.
The plugs needs to be chocolate-brownish if everything's solid.
If they are whitish, not enough gas, too hot...
if they are blackened, too much gas, deposits.
Am I right??
The plugs needs to be chocolate-brownish if everything's solid.
If they are whitish, not enough gas, too hot...
if they are blackened, too much gas, deposits.
Am I right??
#7
THANKS GUYS, i really appreciate your help. I was planning a RMT setup but I already had the NOS kit at home. Wanted to sell it to finance the RMT but though twice before putting 2k$ on the car. Decided to give it a try then we'll see how it goes. Will post results.
The plugs needs to be chocolate-brownish if everything's solid.
If they are whitish, not enough gas, too hot...
if they are blackened, too much gas, deposits.
Am I right??
The plugs needs to be chocolate-brownish if everything's solid.
If they are whitish, not enough gas, too hot...
if they are blackened, too much gas, deposits.
Am I right??
Here is a pretty good read about it, http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticle...ark-plugs.html
#8
As always, its appreciated streetzlegend. I saw an old video of your 50shot wet/basic-bolt on dyno. From 167 to 214whp non-VI is pretty good. What was your results on the track with the 50shot?? Should have drop like .6-.7sec from your e.t. or better?? it is with such articles that credible knowledge is shared. Seriously I cant thank you enough. If you come across other technical articles with serious knowledge like the one you linked, id really like to read them. I have a binder at home to compile
those good articles.
Rep to streetzlegend!!
those good articles.
Rep to streetzlegend!!
Last edited by VQ'ed; 03-02-2010 at 09:39 AM.
#9
As always, its appreciated streetzlegend. I saw an old video of your 50shot wet/basic-bolt on dyno. From 167 to 214whp non-VI is pretty good. What was your results on the track with the 50shot?? Should have drop like .6-.7sec from your e.t. or better?? it is with such articles that credible knowledge is shared. Seriously I cant thank you enough. If you come across other technical articles with serious knowledge like the one you linked, id really like to read them. I have a binder at home to compile
those good articles.
Rep to streetzlegend!!
those good articles.
Rep to streetzlegend!!
Here is on of my favorite spark plug articles: http://www.4secondsflat.com/Spark_plug_reading.html
#10
Is it possible to try for a 75shot without changing timing assuming the setup have enough gas??
I have 3 jets ramping from 55/65 to 75. I'll try the 55 first to give me experience without risking blowing the engine.
I actually got the 290cc from the DE-K when I done my VI swap. At wot, i have 11.6:1 with no tune, the oem gas pump, oem fuel pressure. I assume I have enough juice for a 55shot but I'll get the pump in before just in case. At 51psi, a 255lph pump and a tune I'm pretty sure I'll have a strong enough fuel setup to support the fuel demand for the wet shot. I may be mistaken, pros step in...
I have 3 jets ramping from 55/65 to 75. I'll try the 55 first to give me experience without risking blowing the engine.
I actually got the 290cc from the DE-K when I done my VI swap. At wot, i have 11.6:1 with no tune, the oem gas pump, oem fuel pressure. I assume I have enough juice for a 55shot but I'll get the pump in before just in case. At 51psi, a 255lph pump and a tune I'm pretty sure I'll have a strong enough fuel setup to support the fuel demand for the wet shot. I may be mistaken, pros step in...
Last edited by VQ'ed; 03-03-2010 at 07:51 AM.
#11
The very first thing you should do, its getting a pump. As for timing, I had a 75shot for about a year I believe or longer, no timing control at all (stock timing), also a/f was in the 12s. However as soon as I put on the turbo I had leaky head gasket for a very long time, when thinking about it I realized that it might have been my lack of experience and not being aware of the possibility of knocking when I was spraying, (later I found out that the sound of little rocks hitting the firewall when I sprayed was actually what real bad knocking sounded like lol).
In conclusion, try to keep your a/f in the 11's (perhaps by putting a bigger fuel jet if needed), and if you have something to control timing (EU), reduce a couple degree's for the 75shot, if not try to just keep it on the rich side just not too rich like 10s.
In conclusion, try to keep your a/f in the 11's (perhaps by putting a bigger fuel jet if needed), and if you have something to control timing (EU), reduce a couple degree's for the 75shot, if not try to just keep it on the rich side just not too rich like 10s.
#15
Something to consider, meth injection! look up the affects of meth/water injection in combination with nitrous, its insane.
Basically, we all know meth/water greatly reduces the chance of knock, detonation, etc... Allows you to run aggressive timing and so on..
in combination with nitrous, an example: a 50shot while using meth/water at the same time will yield you probably 60-75hp. This means you can run a smaller nitrous shot while obtaining greater power and also being pretty safe (you cant take meth/water as being a miracle though, u can still knock and blow **** up with it) but it a little hard to do.
Last edited by streetzlegend; 03-03-2010 at 10:37 PM.
#16
I heard a good substitute to a real water/meth liquid mix is winter windshield washer fluid... It contains methanol for keeping the water from not freezing.
Is it real or BS??
I didnt consider running a meth kit before because I thought it was only good in F/I application. Good to know. Jime has a great thread about nos/meth. I'll give it a read to know more about the benefits.
Rep to streezlegend, again!!
Is it real or BS??
I didnt consider running a meth kit before because I thought it was only good in F/I application. Good to know. Jime has a great thread about nos/meth. I'll give it a read to know more about the benefits.
Rep to streezlegend, again!!
#17
yea but not too much, just rich enough to be safe but not to lose too much power. 75shot is still duable with stock timing, anything above id consider doing something bout timing.
Something to consider, meth injection! look up the affects of meth/water injection in combination with nitrous, its insane.
Basically, we all know meth/water greatly reduces the chance of knock, detonation, etc... Allows you to run aggressive timing and so on..
in combination with nitrous, an example: a 50shot while using meth/water at the same time will yield you probably 60-75hp. This means you can run a smaller nitrous shot while obtaining greater power and also being pretty safe (you cant take meth/water as being a miracle though, u can still knock and blow **** up with it) but it a little hard to do.
Something to consider, meth injection! look up the affects of meth/water injection in combination with nitrous, its insane.
Basically, we all know meth/water greatly reduces the chance of knock, detonation, etc... Allows you to run aggressive timing and so on..
in combination with nitrous, an example: a 50shot while using meth/water at the same time will yield you probably 60-75hp. This means you can run a smaller nitrous shot while obtaining greater power and also being pretty safe (you cant take meth/water as being a miracle though, u can still knock and blow **** up with it) but it a little hard to do.
#18
I have done it on my 3.0 when I was spraying it, I had a small 35 or 50shot as well as the methanol and the turbo (was at 300hp back then), and everytime I sprayed that small shot it was insane, never really got to test it at the track or dyno, and on the street was fun.
I wouldnt use the washer fluid honestly. They use that because it already has methanol in it, but it also has other products that you dont really want to have in your engine (theres i think the walmart brand that has the least amount of crap it, mostly methanol, water, and few other things), What I do for methanol is i buy the small yellow HEET bottles, those are 99.5% methanol basically pure meth. i put in 4 of those then get distilled water and fill 3 of of the small bottles. to get a 50/50 balance.
#20
Well I buy meth like that because I dont want to have a huge keg laying around in my house, but its actually cheaper to buy actual methanol from a speed shop than buying the little HEET bottles, if you add it up and compare to a 5gal or w/e they sell at the shops the HEET is actually alot more $.
#21
I needed to disconnect and rearrange the hoses from the previous owner's setup.
What you guys recommend to thighten the hoses to the connections, teflon ribbon or else?? I heard about liquid teflon but what is this, threadlocker??
Is teflon ribbon good enough??
What you guys recommend to thighten the hoses to the connections, teflon ribbon or else?? I heard about liquid teflon but what is this, threadlocker??
Is teflon ribbon good enough??
#22
No teflon on AN fittings, but use teflon tape or liquid on pipe threads.
#23
Yeah teflon is a no no on AN fittings, you shouldnt need it at all, even on the threads since the tighter you get the nut the more it compresses on the flared part(which is what makes the seal), so it wont matter if you have teflon on the threads or not. On the actual solenoids thats another case, you might want to use liquid teflone (NOT threadlock), if you use normal non-liquid teflon then put it closer to the end of the thread, not near the tip of it and dont put too much, just a couple of turns around the thread.
#24
I had teflon tape in my toolchest so I might go with that. I got the bottle mounted in the trunk yesterday. The way I got the hoses underneat the car is by passing it under the seal next to the rear driver seatbelt then through the rear footwell right next to the brake and fuel lines. Then, next to the rack and pinion and in the control box on a custom built sheetmetal plate replacing the battery which is in the trunk next to the bottle. I used a T anodized fitting and the bottle opening to redirect to the center console mounted gauge, in the cup holder.
I still have to wait for the bottle warmer, a replacement pressure gauge and a 255 gas pump. Money's short, i got a speeding ticket lately. Been 4 years without any. So, state money first, laughing gas is coming in.
I need to check which nozzle is installed any I have a hard time locating it, where should it be? ZEX wet. Sounds noobie, but I am with NOS!!!
I still have to wait for the bottle warmer, a replacement pressure gauge and a 255 gas pump. Money's short, i got a speeding ticket lately. Been 4 years without any. So, state money first, laughing gas is coming in.
I need to check which nozzle is installed any I have a hard time locating it, where should it be? ZEX wet. Sounds noobie, but I am with NOS!!!
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