Hi,

I want to make a rebuilt of my tranny. Its leaking too much and the bearings make lot of noise.

I'd like to buy the peces but I don't know what excatly. I konw that I need:
-2 bearings
-shims
(seals its allright)

But this tranny has 4 bearings... there's a shem, for the guys who know, can you tell me what I need to ask at the dealer?




Thanks

 

Where's it leaking from? Where the axles go in or in the bell housing? If it's leaking at the axle you need differential bearing(s), if it's leaking out of the bell housing (not sure if you have the trans out of the car yet) then you need the input shaft bearing. On both of the trans I've had to replace input shaft bearings on, it was only the bearing closest to the splines on the input shaft that needed replacement, part number 32203M. Calculating the proper shim size using the solder crush method requires you to first replace the bearing, bolt the thing back together, take it back apart, measure the solder, do the calculations, then order the proper shim. The differential shims are on national backorder btw, so it will be weeks before you recieve them if that is what you need.

Or you can just reuse the shims already in there which is what most places do, and the rebuild will most likely last you about as long as it did the first time.

You'll also likely want little stuff like new roll pins for the forks, snap rings, etc.

You should probably replace the seals too, they are like $10, and if you mess up an axle seal while removing or installing the axles, you'll be pissed if you can't get your car back on the road because you neglected to buy a $10 seal. If your input shaft bearing is bad, you'll definately want a new input shaft seal.

 

Thanks for the images, I wanted to rebuild my manual tranny too. I just brought a used one from this guy that crashed his maxima and plan on putting it on my car this summer. The tranny on my car makes this spinning noise when I don't hold down the clutch and also it makes spinning noises that is most noticable at slower speeds. Do you have the same noise problem?

 

That's your input shaft bearing.

 

And if you suspect a bad input shaft bearing, replace all of the bearings. IME, it's sometimes ok to only replace the differential carrier bearings, but if you think you have mainshaft or input shaft bearing problems then you should expect to replace them all.

Neal, what kind of solder do you find works best? I have a feeling that leaded solder might be the softest and most crushable kind, and that I'll need it in a few sizes. Any insight there would be appreciated.

Dave

 

First,dgeesaman and nealoc, thanks a lot for your help!


Yeah, I got the same problem + lot oil leaking.

My leaking comming from differancial shaft, not from the case seal.

So, you told me to change all bearings or only some of those?
Actually, the problem is the preload, I think is too much, how can I fix it? with good seize shims?

If it possible, I'd like every parts number that I need for the best rebuilt. Then I'll got to the dealer, order it and give it all to my mecanic.

Thanks for your help!

 

Yes, the proper shims will solve the preload problem. Unfortunately it may take a long time to order new shims - Nissan doesn't have many of them in stock. I suggest that if the shims are too thick, that your mechanic have them ground to the proper thickness.

I suggest you have your mechanic get the bearing and seals kit from a regular transmission parts shop. It will be cheaper than from Nissan, and the exact same bearings.

Also, your mechanic will need the factory service manual. PM me if you have trouble obtaining that info.

Dave

 

degeesaman, yes I believe the solder we use at the shop is regular leaded solder. I will ask tomorrow, I don't buy the shop supplies I just use em

As far as what bearings to replace I think that is personal preference. At the shop we do not replace bearings other than those that are pitted, worn, or otherwise imperfect. If the bearing and it's race is in perfect working order, we don't replace it. We do however check the shimming of all bearings to make sure that it is exactly correct.

Check multiple sources for the parts you decide you need (whether it be one bearing or more than one.) I just priced some transmission and other parts through DAVE B at southpoint nissan (the parts guy most maxima.org members buy through) and compared his prices to the local nissan dealership. For the parts I priced, the local dealership wanted $1213 dollars, DAVE B's price was $309 cheaper at $904. I don't know what a transmission parts shop like degeesaman described would charge for the parts you want so you should check.

 

I didn't have leaded solder on-hand, but I found that if I took .032 tin solder and twisted it (making it .063 thick), it worked really well. I think the trick is to be sure to have the right thickness, since if it's too large it won't squish easily and you won't get accurate measurements. I think leaded solder or some other very soft material would be nice since it won't be so sensitive to how much it's crushed.

Dave

 

I asked for you today and yes I was right, we use leaded solder. After bolting everything together we usually wait about 10-15 minutes to let the solder set and then take it apart and mic it.

 

yeah i have had this problem for awhile now, same as above, i hear a whirling noise in neutral but if i push the clutch down to the floor it disappears (dont hear it anymore so to speak).

made some videos:

Tranny Noises - Video 1:
http://www.ceasarschariot.net/tranny_woes.wmv

Tranny Noises - Video 2:
http://www.ceasarschariot.net/tranny_woes2.wmv

 

I have the input shaft bearing part # 32203-03E00 If anyone needs one.

 

To finally help the original poster: here is a fairly comprehensive list of parts for a non-LSD tranny. Note that it makes no sense to buy all of these in advance - I would only buy bearings, seals, and maybe synchros if you wanted to do a full rebuild.



Dave

 

Ceaser the noise in your videos is the input shaft bearing without question. I responded to your PM as well.

 

OMG this is the thread Ive been looking for .I couldnt tell if it was the tranny or the throw out bearing (which I changed) guess I know what im doing after I sell my passat....Ceasar thanks for posting the videos cause thats how it sounds like on my car although yours is much better looking and etc. When I hit my post limit this was going to be my first post actually speaking of which I just reached it

 

is 600 too much money to pay for the new parts and installation btw just wanted to know

 

You mean $600 to remove the tranny, rebuild it, and replace it? With or without synchros?

Many shops might charge $600 to rebuild the tranny with new bearings and seals, no install or synchros. It usually goes up from there.

Dave

 

Thanks dave for your input....its to rebuild the tranny with new bearings seals, synchros, and installation but it sounds like im getting a good deal

 

Those parts alone are worth $300 at wholesale. $300 to do all the labor seems crazy cheap. Be sure that's a flat price - not just a wild estimate.

Dave

 

Im having the same problem as Caesar and i had the tranny rebuilt about a year ago. It was leaking oil and the noise was outrageous. They replaced the differencial bearings and the input shaft bearings.I still have a windidnd noise but there are no oil leaks and it seems to drive fine besides the notchy shifting. I was thinking that it might be the wheel bearings but those were changed last summer but the 19's seem to kill axles and bearings a lot quicker then i thought.

 

The winding noise is probably damaged gear teeth, which would have been quite a bit more expensive to fix completely.

Dave

 

Thanks Ceasars Chariot, exactly the same problem here. Appaantly, its the bearing, damaged like you can see on motorvate.ca

Ive 2 weeks left before make the rebuilt, and , actually, Ive no idea about what pieces I need.

No one khows the right shims size?

Just make me a list og what I need, the minimum for a nice rebuilt.


Thanks

 

From my list, buy 6 bearings:
- Input shaft inner, outer
- Mainshaft inner, outer
- Differential Carrier inner, outer (remember to specify if it's LSD or open diff)
4 seals
- Axle seal inner, outer
- Input shaft seal
- Striking rod seal

I re-use the snap rings and roll pins without a problem.

If this transmission lasted a fairly long time, then if you re-use the shims the rebuilt tranny will probably last equally long. If this tranny failed early (say, less than 75k miles), plan to buy new shims. You won't know what size you'll need until you reassemble the tranny and measure it; there are two solutions:
1) Have the thickest size shims on hand, take them to a machine shop and have them ground to the exact size you need.
2) Order the exact shims and put the work on hold until they arrive.

Have you ever done transmission work?

Dave

 

Thanks Ceasar for the VID. But what point do you decide to rebuild or purchase a junkyard trans. Spend $300-$400 in parts and rebuild a trans with 176,000 miles in my case, or purchase one from a yard for $550 and has 73,000 miles. I don't know which is better in the end but I went with the later of the two options. Spend $150 more, spend less down time, less hassle, trans with 100,000 fewer miles and be back on the road in 2 1/2 to 3 hours. I will be swapping the trans in mine this Monday after work.

 

because maxima's have defective manual trannies and can go at any mileage.

 

alright heres my problem, i have the EXACT same noise ceasers does. I have a very bad sounding grinding noise i can hear especially in 1st and second gear with the windows up. I thought it might have been my cv shaft bearings because ive been driving around on ripped boots for ahwile i just replaced them today along with the differetnial oil seal so no leaks but it still makes that noise. does anyone else have the same problem with me and know what the problem is?

thanks
chris

 

To clarify, I believe that each tranny, depending on how it's used and how it was assembled at the factory, will last a different amount of time. Some are put together well and last 200k. Others aren't and they die at 50k. And there is the point that a rebuild done with proper shaft shimming will solve the problem of a prematurely worn out transmission.

If you buy a junkyard tranny or any other used tranny, you need to inspect it and consider the mileage to get an idea where it stands. If I were buying a used tranny that I hoped to use for more than 50k miles, I would have it rebuilt regardless before installing it.

Dave

 

Thanks alot dgeesaman, the rebuilt is in 5 days !!!

 

I have the same problem and am anticipating a rebuild this summer. Is there any way to 'beef' up the tranny? Like get closer gears 1st through 4rth then get a nice tall 5th for highway cruising?

 

search or just check the all motor forum for the thread about altima gears...

 

Altima gears are weaker though. That won't matter in 5th, but you might be forced to change a couple of the other gears also in order for it all to fit.

Dave

 

What makes you say they are weaker? I haven't looked at them so I don't know anything about them.

Only 1st and 5th have different ratios iirc. Those are what JClaw swapped in.

 

I had a set of gears from an Altima. The gears were not as thick and had smaller teeth, presumably for better efficiency and lower noise. The clutch hubs were slightly different sizes, so if you changed, say 1st you'd have to change 2nd also.

If anyone does swap these gears, I suggest to check the gear geometry or else you could end up with a lower torque capacity. While that's fine for 5th gear, making things fit could require you to change another gear.

Dave