Need more info on 5 spds rebuilt **Pics**
#1
Need more info on 5 spds rebuilt **Pics**
Hi,
I want to make a rebuilt of my tranny. Its leaking too much and the bearings make lot of noise.
I'd like to buy the peces but I don't know what excatly. I konw that I need:
-2 bearings
-shims
(seals its allright)
But this tranny has 4 bearings... there's a shem, for the guys who know, can you tell me what I need to ask at the dealer?
Thanks
I want to make a rebuilt of my tranny. Its leaking too much and the bearings make lot of noise.
I'd like to buy the peces but I don't know what excatly. I konw that I need:
-2 bearings
-shims
(seals its allright)
But this tranny has 4 bearings... there's a shem, for the guys who know, can you tell me what I need to ask at the dealer?
Thanks
#2
Where's it leaking from? Where the axles go in or in the bell housing? If it's leaking at the axle you need differential bearing(s), if it's leaking out of the bell housing (not sure if you have the trans out of the car yet) then you need the input shaft bearing. On both of the trans I've had to replace input shaft bearings on, it was only the bearing closest to the splines on the input shaft that needed replacement, part number 32203M. Calculating the proper shim size using the solder crush method requires you to first replace the bearing, bolt the thing back together, take it back apart, measure the solder, do the calculations, then order the proper shim. The differential shims are on national backorder btw, so it will be weeks before you recieve them if that is what you need.
Or you can just reuse the shims already in there which is what most places do, and the rebuild will most likely last you about as long as it did the first time.
You'll also likely want little stuff like new roll pins for the forks, snap rings, etc.
You should probably replace the seals too, they are like $10, and if you mess up an axle seal while removing or installing the axles, you'll be pissed if you can't get your car back on the road because you neglected to buy a $10 seal. If your input shaft bearing is bad, you'll definately want a new input shaft seal.
Or you can just reuse the shims already in there which is what most places do, and the rebuild will most likely last you about as long as it did the first time.
You'll also likely want little stuff like new roll pins for the forks, snap rings, etc.
You should probably replace the seals too, they are like $10, and if you mess up an axle seal while removing or installing the axles, you'll be pissed if you can't get your car back on the road because you neglected to buy a $10 seal. If your input shaft bearing is bad, you'll definately want a new input shaft seal.
#3
Thanks for the images, I wanted to rebuild my manual tranny too. I just brought a used one from this guy that crashed his maxima and plan on putting it on my car this summer. The tranny on my car makes this spinning noise when I don't hold down the clutch and also it makes spinning noises that is most noticable at slower speeds. Do you have the same noise problem?
#4
Originally Posted by BumbleB80
The tranny on my car makes this spinning noise when I don't hold down the clutch and also it makes spinning noises that is most noticable at slower speeds.
#5
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
That's your input shaft bearing.
Neal, what kind of solder do you find works best? I have a feeling that leaded solder might be the softest and most crushable kind, and that I'll need it in a few sizes. Any insight there would be appreciated.
Dave
#6
First,dgeesaman and nealoc, thanks a lot for your help!
Yeah, I got the same problem + lot oil leaking.
My leaking comming from differancial shaft, not from the case seal.
So, you told me to change all bearings or only some of those?
Actually, the problem is the preload, I think is too much, how can I fix it? with good seize shims?
If it possible, I'd like every parts number that I need for the best rebuilt. Then I'll got to the dealer, order it and give it all to my mecanic.
Thanks for your help!
Originally Posted by BumbleB80
Thanks for the images, I wanted to rebuild my manual tranny too. I just brought a used one from this guy that crashed his maxima and plan on putting it on my car this summer. The tranny on my car makes this spinning noise when I don't hold down the clutch and also it makes spinning noises that is most noticable at slower speeds. Do you have the same noise problem?
Yeah, I got the same problem + lot oil leaking.
My leaking comming from differancial shaft, not from the case seal.
So, you told me to change all bearings or only some of those?
Actually, the problem is the preload, I think is too much, how can I fix it? with good seize shims?
If it possible, I'd like every parts number that I need for the best rebuilt. Then I'll got to the dealer, order it and give it all to my mecanic.
Thanks for your help!
#7
Yes, the proper shims will solve the preload problem. Unfortunately it may take a long time to order new shims - Nissan doesn't have many of them in stock. I suggest that if the shims are too thick, that your mechanic have them ground to the proper thickness.
I suggest you have your mechanic get the bearing and seals kit from a regular transmission parts shop. It will be cheaper than from Nissan, and the exact same bearings.
Also, your mechanic will need the factory service manual. PM me if you have trouble obtaining that info.
Dave
I suggest you have your mechanic get the bearing and seals kit from a regular transmission parts shop. It will be cheaper than from Nissan, and the exact same bearings.
Also, your mechanic will need the factory service manual. PM me if you have trouble obtaining that info.
Dave
#8
degeesaman, yes I believe the solder we use at the shop is regular leaded solder. I will ask tomorrow, I don't buy the shop supplies I just use em
As far as what bearings to replace I think that is personal preference. At the shop we do not replace bearings other than those that are pitted, worn, or otherwise imperfect. If the bearing and it's race is in perfect working order, we don't replace it. We do however check the shimming of all bearings to make sure that it is exactly correct.
Check multiple sources for the parts you decide you need (whether it be one bearing or more than one.) I just priced some transmission and other parts through DAVE B at southpoint nissan (the parts guy most maxima.org members buy through) and compared his prices to the local nissan dealership. For the parts I priced, the local dealership wanted $1213 dollars, DAVE B's price was $309 cheaper at $904. I don't know what a transmission parts shop like degeesaman described would charge for the parts you want so you should check.
As far as what bearings to replace I think that is personal preference. At the shop we do not replace bearings other than those that are pitted, worn, or otherwise imperfect. If the bearing and it's race is in perfect working order, we don't replace it. We do however check the shimming of all bearings to make sure that it is exactly correct.
Check multiple sources for the parts you decide you need (whether it be one bearing or more than one.) I just priced some transmission and other parts through DAVE B at southpoint nissan (the parts guy most maxima.org members buy through) and compared his prices to the local nissan dealership. For the parts I priced, the local dealership wanted $1213 dollars, DAVE B's price was $309 cheaper at $904. I don't know what a transmission parts shop like degeesaman described would charge for the parts you want so you should check.
#9
I didn't have leaded solder on-hand, but I found that if I took .032 tin solder and twisted it (making it .063 thick), it worked really well. I think the trick is to be sure to have the right thickness, since if it's too large it won't squish easily and you won't get accurate measurements. I think leaded solder or some other very soft material would be nice since it won't be so sensitive to how much it's crushed.
Dave
Dave
#10
I asked for you today and yes I was right, we use leaded solder. After bolting everything together we usually wait about 10-15 minutes to let the solder set and then take it apart and mic it.
#11
yeah i have had this problem for awhile now, same as above, i hear a whirling noise in neutral but if i push the clutch down to the floor it disappears (dont hear it anymore so to speak).
made some videos:
Tranny Noises - Video 1:
http://www.ceasarschariot.net/tranny_woes.wmv
Tranny Noises - Video 2:
http://www.ceasarschariot.net/tranny_woes2.wmv
made some videos:
Tranny Noises - Video 1:
http://www.ceasarschariot.net/tranny_woes.wmv
Tranny Noises - Video 2:
http://www.ceasarschariot.net/tranny_woes2.wmv
#13
To finally help the original poster: here is a fairly comprehensive list of parts for a non-LSD tranny. Note that it makes no sense to buy all of these in advance - I would only buy bearings, seals, and maybe synchros if you wanted to do a full rebuild.
Dave
Dave
#15
OMG this is the thread Ive been looking for .I couldnt tell if it was the tranny or the throw out bearing (which I changed) guess I know what im doing after I sell my passat....Ceasar thanks for posting the videos cause thats how it sounds like on my car although yours is much better looking and etc. When I hit my post limit this was going to be my first post actually speaking of which I just reached it
#17
You mean $600 to remove the tranny, rebuild it, and replace it? With or without synchros?
Many shops might charge $600 to rebuild the tranny with new bearings and seals, no install or synchros. It usually goes up from there.
Dave
Many shops might charge $600 to rebuild the tranny with new bearings and seals, no install or synchros. It usually goes up from there.
Dave
#20
Im having the same problem as Caesar and i had the tranny rebuilt about a year ago. It was leaking oil and the noise was outrageous. They replaced the differencial bearings and the input shaft bearings.I still have a windidnd noise but there are no oil leaks and it seems to drive fine besides the notchy shifting. I was thinking that it might be the wheel bearings but those were changed last summer but the 19's seem to kill axles and bearings a lot quicker then i thought.
#22
Thanks Ceasars Chariot, exactly the same problem here. Appaantly, its the bearing, damaged like you can see on motorvate.ca
Ive 2 weeks left before make the rebuilt, and , actually, Ive no idea about what pieces I need.
No one khows the right shims size?
Just make me a list og what I need, the minimum for a nice rebuilt.
Thanks
Ive 2 weeks left before make the rebuilt, and , actually, Ive no idea about what pieces I need.
No one khows the right shims size?
Just make me a list og what I need, the minimum for a nice rebuilt.
Thanks
#23
From my list, buy 6 bearings:
- Input shaft inner, outer
- Mainshaft inner, outer
- Differential Carrier inner, outer (remember to specify if it's LSD or open diff)
4 seals
- Axle seal inner, outer
- Input shaft seal
- Striking rod seal
I re-use the snap rings and roll pins without a problem.
If this transmission lasted a fairly long time, then if you re-use the shims the rebuilt tranny will probably last equally long. If this tranny failed early (say, less than 75k miles), plan to buy new shims. You won't know what size you'll need until you reassemble the tranny and measure it; there are two solutions:
1) Have the thickest size shims on hand, take them to a machine shop and have them ground to the exact size you need.
2) Order the exact shims and put the work on hold until they arrive.
Have you ever done transmission work?
Dave
- Input shaft inner, outer
- Mainshaft inner, outer
- Differential Carrier inner, outer (remember to specify if it's LSD or open diff)
4 seals
- Axle seal inner, outer
- Input shaft seal
- Striking rod seal
I re-use the snap rings and roll pins without a problem.
If this transmission lasted a fairly long time, then if you re-use the shims the rebuilt tranny will probably last equally long. If this tranny failed early (say, less than 75k miles), plan to buy new shims. You won't know what size you'll need until you reassemble the tranny and measure it; there are two solutions:
1) Have the thickest size shims on hand, take them to a machine shop and have them ground to the exact size you need.
2) Order the exact shims and put the work on hold until they arrive.
Have you ever done transmission work?
Dave
#24
Thanks Ceasar for the VID. But what point do you decide to rebuild or purchase a junkyard trans. Spend $300-$400 in parts and rebuild a trans with 176,000 miles in my case, or purchase one from a yard for $550 and has 73,000 miles. I don't know which is better in the end but I went with the later of the two options. Spend $150 more, spend less down time, less hassle, trans with 100,000 fewer miles and be back on the road in 2 1/2 to 3 hours. I will be swapping the trans in mine this Monday after work.
#26
alright heres my problem, i have the EXACT same noise ceasers does. I have a very bad sounding grinding noise i can hear especially in 1st and second gear with the windows up. I thought it might have been my cv shaft bearings because ive been driving around on ripped boots for ahwile i just replaced them today along with the differetnial oil seal so no leaks but it still makes that noise. does anyone else have the same problem with me and know what the problem is?
thanks
chris
thanks
chris
#27
Originally Posted by konak85
because maxima's have defective manual trannies and can go at any mileage.
If you buy a junkyard tranny or any other used tranny, you need to inspect it and consider the mileage to get an idea where it stands. If I were buying a used tranny that I hoped to use for more than 50k miles, I would have it rebuilt regardless before installing it.
Dave
#33
I had a set of gears from an Altima. The gears were not as thick and had smaller teeth, presumably for better efficiency and lower noise. The clutch hubs were slightly different sizes, so if you changed, say 1st you'd have to change 2nd also.
If anyone does swap these gears, I suggest to check the gear geometry or else you could end up with a lower torque capacity. While that's fine for 5th gear, making things fit could require you to change another gear.
Dave
If anyone does swap these gears, I suggest to check the gear geometry or else you could end up with a lower torque capacity. While that's fine for 5th gear, making things fit could require you to change another gear.
Dave
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