i have just completed my injector/knock sensor replacement. the car is idleing like it did before the job. ecu showed codes 34 and 51 then and IS STILL showing the same codes. what needs to be done to resolve it. do i need to reset the ecu. if so how do i do it.

 

anybody?

 

did you continuity test the proper pins on the harness? I replaced my 02 sensor back in ... a long time ago, and it still gave me a 33. here's why:

see how the black wire broke JUST as it enters the wire bundle? i didn't notice it at first, until i continuity tested it. then i found out that i had no ground... so i did this:

strangely on the car-side, black was ground, and on my particular sensor, white was ground... very odd, but i triple-checked it before splicing anything, and white was right. Killed the 33 code, but more importantly, it brought my MPG from 15-16(combined, highway, didn't really matter) in early '07 to a much-improved 27.1mpg and 26.3mpg for my past two tanks (hasn't been below 20mpg since i fixed the wire, no matter how i drive it)

 

thanx for the response.

 

Hmmm... I'm glad I read this man, because my ECU still insists (LOL) with the 34 which is knock sensor right? so do you know how a car behave with a bad knock sensor or let's say bad ground from harness... you know weird thing right now is that CEL comes on when I move the shifter selector, btw the selector is making a big "Click" every time I depress the brake pedal

 

that must mean that the control box for the shifter button release is getting a signal that your car is still in park. that switch in your shifter assembly may be stuck in the park-engaged position (totally 100% unrelated to the PN and PRND2L switch pair on the tranny casing). which means the shift lock solenoid will fire every time you hit the brakes. as for the CEL coming on when you move the shifter... does it come on and stay on? flickers each time a new position is selected? can you elaborate some on that?

 

it flickers when a gear is selected, but not always, sometimes doesn't even come on and I drove it for a few minutes without the CEL, but when I park and move the selector again turn on and stays on for a while then off, then move the selector back to D or R and flickers and turns off... so I have no idea why is this happening, this happened just when I removed the negative terminal from Batt to change TCU and then when I put it back start behaving like this

 

mebbe a broken wire or short or bad ground on the tcu harness... when you wrestle wire bundles around sometimes one will pull a little tighter than the rest.

 

You know, That's what I been thinking about: a broken wire or some bad ground, but not on the TCU (I checked that already) I think this clown (mechanic) maybe break a connector or forgot to put a cable back (like those vacuum hoses) and that's causing the problem, but I don't know where to start since he mess up with the whole engine.

 

i'd check the ground on the tranny, tbh. there's a black wire that clips onto a little flat terminal on the seam of the 2 halves of the tranny. it's on the top somewhere, but i forget where precisely... just follow the seam and you'll find it.

also there are like 4 connectors on the tranny. one for the speedometer, two in the inhibitor, and one on the front for the valve/control stuffs. I don't know if the tranny can function without them, but then again, it could possibly go into a failsafe induced by a lack of signal from TCU, at which point you'd be stuck in 3rd always with no real way to regulate anything (no drop resistor, not TC control, no solenoid control)

 

which makes perfect sense for my problem since the shiftings are so weird and even sometimes it just can be picking up speed very slowly until 35-40mph where the car behaves much better. I might be wrong but that sounds like getting stuck on 3rd.