Took the car out on a private road, to see what it could do on top end (car is still unregistered). Car has alot of low end torque. Well once I hit 103-105 the car hesitated and seemed to have bog down. I got back down to 80 or so, and tried again to see if it was a one time thing, the car accelerated steadly and it hesitated at 90.

The car came with a 3.5 swap already done. I do have the ABS light, and the CHECK engine light on. I have yet to check codes ( I will have it done this weekend). Could it be related to the Speed Limiter? The car is a 95 GLE. No mods yet, car has headers and stock exhaust.

Any ideas?

 

Is it ta black auto with a cattman exhaust?
Check your codes then report back

 

Yes, codes should be able to solve a good percentage of your issues.

 

^ lol

Yeah I don't think anybody's going to be able to tell you much until you check the codes or possibly find other symptoms.

 

did codes work?

 

^The op also stated ("no mods yet") Im just trying to help instead of making people feel stupid.
Im sorry I meant to say headers instead of exhaust but thanks 4 pointing that out.
Im still waiting for op to report back feel so free to quote me some more un till then...

 

Is it a hybrid swap, or full?

 

........

 

Its a hybrid swap I'm assuming because its running the a32 ecu. I have yet to check codes... I went to autozone, just praying by chance they have the diagnostic reader for 95's of course they dont, only for 96 and over. Called the local Nissan, they charge $90 for the check. (forget that... i'd rather buy the dam code reader) do you guys recommend a brand or place I can find one. I'd rather be able to check codes on a weekly/monthly basis as the mods go on piece by piece (and paying $90 each time isnt what I want to do). I tried running the car again over 100 yesterday after filling up on premium shell gas (makes me wonder if the fuel gauge is incorrect) . Car reached 110 without a hitch. But didnt push it after that. I'll be doing the manual code reader (http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html) tomorrow afternoon.

 

Just check the codes yourself, no need for a scanner.

Any auto parts store that has an OBD-II scanner can check the codes just fine, the reason they wouldn't is because you said you have a '95. Before you ask what I mean, just look at my sig.

 

Oh werd... I didnt even know that... so its behind or around the ECU ?? Ugh stupid me, i'm looking over here by the fuse box. Yeah I'll most likely do it myself. So to make sure, the same OBD II scanner that they'll use on 96 and newer and if found around the fuse box, is behind the ecu.

 

Well at the fuse box is the CONSULT-II port, but the OBD-II port on the driver's side 96+ is on the right side of the center console, right above the ECU, yes.

 

Honestly i would suspect that the vss wire hasnt been cut cause it does sound like your hitting limiter.

if you get a p0500 that means your VSS has been clipped eliminating that guess. but if it doesnt show you know what it is then.

But then again you have a gle. There only is a limiter in gxe right??

 

Ok finally pulled codes while working on the car:
I got a crap load, kinda of concerns me; tell me what you guys think

0504 Automatic Transmission Control Unit Signal to ECU
0802 Crank Position Sensor
0205 Idle Speed Control
0401 Intake Air Temp Sensor
0407 Crankshaft Position sensor (reference)
0801 Vacuum cut balve bypass valve
0703 Three Way Catalyst (left bank)
0902 Undefined
0903 EVAP Canister vent control valve
1005 EGRC Solenoid valve
1008 EVAP canister purge volume control valve
1302 MAP/BARO SW Solenoid/Valve
0803 Absolute Pressure Sensor
1101 Inhibitor Switch

 

Holy hell.

0902 isn't 'undefined', what decoder are you using? Not the good one

0902 is rear O2 sensor.

Are you a 5 speed swap, or using an auto ECU? Cali spec ECU?

I guess first thing to ask is, look over the list and check off everything you don't have connected or you completely removed. Have you reset the codes to see which come back?

A lot of these simply look like you turned the key to ignition while in the middle of the project, with a bunch of stuff left unplugged.

 

you should just go get an ecu to a 3.5, and do the full swap. Best of luck to you with all those codes being thrown at you.

 

There are a few sensors unplugged (my friend was concerned with all the "unplugged" sensors), but I got the car as is. We didnt put it together, so I cant really tell you I know the in's and out's of it. Its a automatic, I'm not even sure what ECU i'm using. The car came with two, one disconnected and one connected I'll find out tonight if its gonna help.(i'm assuming the disconnect one didnt work, and they slapped on another one,because the stock one was a PITA to remove) We didnt pull codes with scanner, we did the DIY (turn screw, key in ign)

Only other concern I have right now is the car had a short somewhere, and it drains the battery. I purchased a new DURALAST about 3 weeks ago, yesterday it was officially dead. Thanks to the warranty I got a free replacement, and for now I disconnect the battery everytime I dont use it (will a battery disconnect kit be helpful)? When the car becomes the main track/project car I wont mind not having it connected, but for now its a pain in butt to be doing this anywhere if I plan to stay long (only to keep the battery from being drained)

All we did today was really clean up the engine bay with degrease and a hose down, swap radiators, change coolant, and change the oil. The CPS code is what concerns me because I have to crank the car once or twice before it finally takes and idles fine. Eventually the motor will be torn down, once my beater or daily driver is running. But for nowI have to drive it... on a side note, when removing the A/C for weight reduction, all I will really need is a smaller belt for the pulleys correct?

 

Its being considered, I just need my daily back up and running, and I might just go that route.

 

No offense but how could you buy a swapped car and not know anything about it? That just seems like a bad move right from the start.

 

You need to look everything over, and actually learn about the car. At this point we likely know more about how the swap was done than you, but diagnosis will be nothing but a SWAG until you know all you can about what's where, what's hooked up, what's been removed, etc.

For the AC, yes, just a smaller belt. Search the 4th/5th gen sections, there are many posts about it.

For the battery draining issue: http://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain

 

True, but it was a deal I couldnt pass up. Must of the info giving was from a thread, I've read the stickies, but I'm not a big gear head to say that I could tackle a swap myself, nor really understand all of the info and terminology giving. I read every post on the NA and Boosted pages, trying to pick up anything I can use or apply to my setup/situation. I try not to post just due to flaming. If I thought my local mechanic or any local shop could handle the swap, I've would done it thru them. But i doubt anyone would be able to tackle this job locally.

I'll try and go thru the car as thoroughly as possible, to the best of my ability, and come back and report. Thanks

 

Looks like it just gets crappier....
Went to go get codes read by a Snap-On Modis (eems300), with both OBDII port and the Other port (they used a "nissan 2" for the fuse box read)

Unfortunately, with my luck. The diganostic reader, was not able to connect/read any of the ports. It asked if cable was connected, if key was in ignition etc... no go. Does anybody know why it couldnt read?

It was able some how to read the "global OBD II" pretty much i think its a UNIVERSAL read.. and the only codes I got with that was:

P0104: Vehicle Speed Sensor
P0102: Mass Air Flow Sensor
P0101: Camshaft Position Sensor

that was all that popped out... so we replaced the Mass Airflow for the moment thinking it might be one of the many problems I have... No change. We then did a Live Data Read and this what it gave me:

Engine Speed 4128 or c 1128 (not sure what I jotted down)
Absolute Throttle Position 50.2
Fuel 1 Closed Loop
Fuel 2 Open Loop
Intake Air Temp (C) 88
Engine Coolant Temp (C) 104
Airflow Rate (g/s) 11.52
Intake Map (kpk) 202
Ignition Timing Advance -24
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 600.00
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 800.00
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 2 1000.00
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 2 1200.00
02 Voltage Bank 1-Sensor 1 (v) .040
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 Sensor 1 -25.0
02 Voltage Bank 1-Sensor 1 (v) .035
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 Sensor 2 0.0
02 Voltage Bank 1-Sensor 1 (v) 2 0.010
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 Sensor 3 0.0
02 Voltage Bank 1-Sensor 1 (v) 3 0.030
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 Sensor 1 0.0
Vehicle Speed -80
Caculated Load Value 25.1

I wrote down what I could, they didnt have a printer to print out the reading... but it was the best I could do... So today I decided to check out the Crankshaft Position Sensor... well as luck would have it... with a slight tug by accident it broke off. It looked as thou it was already jacked up... and it was a matter of time for it break. Hence the photos included:

Worst part is, it broke off, and then the head on the screw broke too... so now I have the thread stuck inside, and I cant get it out (any thoughts on how I can go about this with basic tools? Alredy used a bolt/nut spray called liquid wrench to see if could help, no go.













I hope with the replacement of the sensor it can solve the starting problem i've been having and maybe even the performance. sigh... but oh well... I'll keep this updated

 

fixing those CPS sensors will definitely help your starting issuses and performance. if the camshaft position sensor is bad too,that also will help with both of those problems. as far as 100mph+ problems, to me sounds like either one of those codes, speed limiter, fuel psi too low or maybe a bad fuel pump. Any type of A/F gauge in the car?

 

No A/F gauge in the car yet... as far as the car stuttering or hesitating when going over 100mph, it hasnt happend since. I think the fuel gauge was reading incorrect, I've been able to take the to 125 mph with no problems... must of been i was low on gas the first time. No I constantly keep it and half full and up.