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2004 SE p0340 camshaft sensor error...not quite

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Old May 2, 2012 | 04:42 PM
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2004 SE p0340 camshaft sensor error...not quite

Hello all, it's a pleasure to be here with all of you knowledgeable folks on this forum. I'll get strait to my story. Yesterday while I was driving, my car just cut off and I pulled to the side of the road trying to start it again and again, until it finally started, only to be in failsafe mode (stuck in 5th gear). This seems to be quite the common issue among many 6th gen owners, but here's where I became stuck. I went to auto zone, had a diagnostic done, and the P0340 code came up. I replaced the rear sensor (bank 1), reset the ECU (just by disconnecting the battery...I tried that other pedal/ignition method but I couldn't get it to work). Turned the car on...and the check engine light was off of course, but it's still in failsafe mode. It's also been taking forever to start (still does after replacing the sensor) and clunks whenever I put it into gear/reverse. I am REALLY hoping this not a transmission issue because I am just barely out of my used car warranty...and a $4k bill on a military budget is pretty gut wrenching. Did I miss something on replacing the sensor or resetting the ECU...or something at all? Any input/ideas/ANYTHING would be much appreciated. Thank you.
Old May 2, 2012 | 08:09 PM
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Maybe both sensors were bad or it was the bank 2 and since you only replaced bank 1 then there's still a malfunctioning one. That's one possibility. I would recommend getting the other cam sensor replaced too. The same thing happened to me last summer and I had both cam sensors replaced at the same time. No issue w/getting stuck in gear after that and the shifts were a lot smoother too.
Old May 3, 2012 | 05:08 PM
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Makes sense I would need two new ones. Thanks. I'll keep you updated when I replace it...it'll be tomorrow evening though.
Old May 4, 2012 | 05:22 PM
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Didn't work. Feeling like ripping someone's head off. So would resetting it with a computer be better than resetting it via disconnecting the battery?
Old May 5, 2012 | 06:16 AM
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Any advice? Could it be having to reset the ECU via computer? I finally got the whole turn key/press and release pedal method to turn the SES light off, but it is still stuck in 5th gear, and the light just comes back on soon afterwards. Last night I disconnected the battery again, but this time waited a couple of hours, reconnected it and tried (of course with no success) - but I walked out this morning to start it and everything was off. No power at all, look under the good and the battery is still connected. I disconnected/reconnected it again and all electricity came back but the damn light was back on immediately. A couple of more things, seems like two gears work...it says it is in gear 5 but I think it's in 4th; and it also shifts into 2nd via "automanual" option. Also code p0340 is still the one popping up. At a total loss here guys...all help is much appreciated
Old May 5, 2012 | 06:50 AM
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Sounds like you have a unique problem there. It's time to suck it up and go to the dealer before you really damage it by driving it around like that.
Old May 5, 2012 | 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Icons04SilverMax
Sounds like you have a unique problem there. It's time to suck it up and go to the dealer before you really damage it by driving it around like that.
Good suggestion. The fault might indeed lie with the camshaft itself and not the sensor.
Old May 5, 2012 | 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Icons04SilverMax
Sounds like you have a unique problem there. It's time to suck it up and go to the dealer before you really damage it by driving it around like that.
Originally Posted by Costee
Good suggestion. The fault might indeed lie with the camshaft itself and not the sensor.
+1

It's strange, because the p0340 code was the same one I got before I replaced my sensors but it was fine after that. And if it's not the sensors then it's something else.
Old May 7, 2012 | 06:44 AM
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So I did some more reading and found out the sensors I bought could be the problem...Duralast from autozone. Gonna go OEM and see what happens.
Old May 9, 2012 | 03:42 AM
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If going OEM doesnt work then your issue is timing related
Old May 10, 2012 | 09:05 AM
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I own a '04 Maxima SE. I can't speak for the trans issue you are experiencing but I did have the fault code for the camshaft position sensors. After replacing the bank 1 with no help I replaced bank 2...seemed to clear the problem temporarily but eventually came back. Ultimately I had to change the crankshaft position sensor and all has worked well now for 6 months. May be worth a try.
Old May 13, 2012 | 10:08 PM
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So, turned out I just needed to go oem with the sensors. Runs even better than before now...a word to all...NEVER buy Duralast products! Just spend the extra couple or bucks for ones that you know will work...at least for a while!
Old May 14, 2012 | 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by DarthPrater
So, turned out I just needed to go oem with the sensors. Runs even better than before now...a word to all...NEVER buy Duralast products! Just spend the extra couple or bucks for ones that you know will work...at least for a while!
I never use anything but Nissan parts. Google nissanpartzone and you will never have this issue with second rate parts.
Old May 14, 2012 | 09:52 AM
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I see this issue over and over people just buy OEM parts .
Old May 14, 2012 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by DarthPrater
So, turned out I just needed to go oem with the sensors. Runs even better than before now...a word to all...NEVER buy Duralast products! Just spend the extra couple or bucks for ones that you know will work...at least for a while!
The only Duralast products I've used were their brake pads... not too fond of them. Good to know it was just the sensor after all!
Old May 14, 2012 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Akiriyama
The only Duralast products I've used were their brake pads... not too fond of them. Good to know it was just the sensor after all!

HAHA. I just bought duralast brake pads for the front. Cheap asses only have wear sensor on 1 side
Old Nov 12, 2012 | 06:59 AM
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Is it simple to replace both sensors? I have the same issue with my 2004 maxima, new transmission at 80k.
Old Jan 15, 2013 | 02:14 AM
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how hard is it to change crank & cam sensors in the 04 maxima? dealer charged me $105 for each sensor plus after tax and labor it came out to $500 and it only took them an hour! not to mention I still needed catalytic converter.
Old Jan 28, 2013 | 09:27 PM
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the sensors really are not difficult to change at all...just be sure the car is cool and you have some patience. as for the actual installation just look around these forums / on google for instructions.
Old Jan 28, 2013 | 09:52 PM
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Duralast is complete crap. I hope Autozone gave you your money back. As for doing the sensors it's easy. One closest to radiator takes 2 mins. The one closest to the firewall is a a little more tricky but take off the intake and it's a snap.
Old Jan 30, 2013 | 03:26 PM
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500 for both sensors and install is not right. 200 for both sensors and 300 for labor, that is over 3 hours installation. took me less that 20 minutes for both sensors.
Old Feb 2, 2013 | 06:10 PM
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Car just stopped running while i was driving. Took it to the mechanic and was told the same and switch out both. Each sensor was $60 and labor was $80. It was about 1-2 hrs of labor while we talked bout cars.
Old Mar 27, 2013 | 11:28 AM
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Just to add my $.02 to this topic, even if it's somewhat old; On my way to work this morning I came up on a stop light and my car stalled out. Was on a bit of an incline so I was able to roll to the side of the road (thankfully). Put her in N, fired her up (as others have stated, it took longer than usual) and was stuck in 5th. Made it the rest of the way limping along to my office and parked her. Immediately got on my computer and started frantically searching and found that there's A S&%T TON of people that have/had the same issue! Called the garage next door to my building and he told me to bring her over and he'll get the code for me at no charge. While we're waiting for the code to register, I'm praying for the P0340 code and not the code of death (P0447 I think it is...?), and voila!! Took the boss mans 2012 Jeep SRT8 over to the local Nissan dealership, picked up a bank 2 sensor, got back to our parking lot, popped the hood and did the switch. Took all of 5-6 minutes. Put the negative back on the battery, closed up the hood, fired her up and she's running like a champ!

Also have to say, I can't for the life of me remember what life was like before we had the internet. 20 years ago something like this would most likely meant having to fork out $3000-$4000 for a new transmission! In other words, thanks to everyone for their input to forums like this one!!
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