Here is what I wound up getting:

OBX Headers $345/delivered


Cat-Back $129/delivered


This is being sold as a high flow cat. It is no such thing. It is a straight pipe with a shell around it to make it look like a cat. Not to happy about that but w/e it was only $38/delivered


It's already stripped down to stock exhaust manifolds. I have one question at this point.

I bought a dual output o2 sensor. From what I gather I simulate the secondaries with it, tuck them away somewhere, then install the primary o2 sensors in their holes and cap the upstream holes.

I don't need to simulate the primaries at all with headers? I have to pass inspection this year, then next year it is emissions exempt.

 

This cannot be right. The rear header is so far out of alignment it rubs the oil pan.

Please tell me there is something I'm overlooking and i don't need to return these headers.

 

Never simulate the primaries, ever. As far as fitment goes Idk what's up with that.

 

Thanks for the info.

It looks like the main tube from rear header to the front flex joint is just cocked a couple inches to the oil pan side.

I think I'm going to wrap a strap around it and tie it to the tractor and pull that tube 1/4 - 1/2" at a time until i can just get the front header on the studs.

Ether that or a wedge between the oil pan and the pipe. probably the safer route

 

The problem is you bought the wrong headers. The ones you bought (OBX 95-01) are known for fitment issues, the OBX headers you want are for 02-03.

 

I take it that is the v2 I've read about. I figured that I was getting an up to date version seeing as I bought it straight from them via Amazon.

Owell. If that is the case I'll just do whatever I have to do to get it to work. Right now I have it fairly close from pulling that pipe to the side with the tractor. One bolt is in, now I'm looking for a longer one to catch the other side and start it.

Can you heat SS with an ordinary acetylene torch to bend it?

 

You bought the wrong headers period! OBX!....Have a muffler shop heat up the Ypipe and bend it slowly and smoothly.....Your catback will make a good sacrificial lamb...Cut off the resonantor and muffler and install larger Magnaflow units....

 

Here is what one guy did to make those work.http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...er-review.html

Heat will be fine, best of luck to you!

 

I got these installed. Tomorrow I need to run it for awhile then hook it up to the computer to make sure there are no issues with the primary o2 extension I did.

No mods where necessary other then tugging on the crossover pipe with a tractor to get it to line up with the front header.

I was thinking about getting a video of open header, then a video with the cat-back potato launcher. Later I plan to weld in the Magnaflow 22" resonator, and either a Flowmaster 60 or a Borla muffler and getting a video of that too for comparison. This is ofcourse the v1 OBX headers.

 

OBX v1 are older 3 piece headers that OBX doesn't even produce anymore, to my knowledge. Their fitment was even worse than these.

 

Thank you for clarifying that, I guess I misunderstood something someone said earlier.

 

Alright. I have no idea why but they put all four bungs on this header near the rear-header and crossover pipe.

It's time to put the new o2 sensors on and I'm trying to decide how I want to tackle this.

I thought I could peel back the harness and get slack to run the front o2 down and back to the bung. However, The harness goes up and over the engine to the passenger side. I don't see that working. it looks like I'm going to have to splice in an extension for the front o2. Unless I'm missing something, let me know.

The rear actually looks like it might be possible to just cut the loom back some and reach the bung that way.

Just looking for any last tips/tricks/pictures you guys might have handy before I actually go and cut the harness wire. Makes me a little nervous, ya know? I've done plenty of soldering but no electric work on a car at all.

Thanks.