Was tightening my fuel rail back down and the front right bolt for the fuel rail no longer has any home, the piece on the lower manifold snapped. Now the front left injector seats in it's oring like it should but the front right side of the fuel rail is only 90% of the way in it's cushion ring. Here's a pic of the side without the bolt and the side properly tightened, can I get away with just tightening back down with the right kind of rtv to seal any leak? Or I could take it apart again and use a nut and bolt, the top of the thread is still there I could use to tighten down this way

 

Fix this properly.

You are dealing with pressurized gasoline.

Don't think that rtv would be effective against leaks.

 

Wow, how did you manage to snapped that bolt? Those are 12mm and dont require much torque. Theres 4 rubber gromets that sit onto the lim where the fuel rail sits on, did you lose those?Those rubber cushions for the injectors are suppose to sit flush. Id get another lim and try again.

 

^ +1

Pick up another LIM at a JY.

How did you break a bolt that only requires 15 to 20 ft/lb of torque? I suggest you follow the torque specs within the FSM.

 

Here's a pic, I'd rather order a manifold off eBay if it came to replacement then spend the time in a junkyard pulling one. And I believe I probably stressed it last time I had it apart one of the front plastic washers got lost because it somehow fell down onto the tranny which I didn't find until putting he air filter on. I tightened that one past the torque specs to try and compensate for the missing washer and I was using a torque wrench this time but still ended up snapping it




I tried a nut and bolt and washers, but the washers slanted and tightened down the front making the injector sit uneven and slant forwards

I am CALI, if I order a FED spec LIM would I run into an CELs? I know the fed specs are better power wise

 

You really dont need to be precise for torque on those 4 bolts. just make sure there tight not super tight. As far as cel, you might get a code for swirly valve but im not 100% sure, But try to T off any vaccum lines. Your probably better off with fed spec lim, get rid off all that extra junk.

 

FED spec manifold on its way, I'll now be fully swapped from Cali spec hopefully get some sort of gains out of it in the process. Just want a running car again this all started by not lubing the injectors right when I put them in

 

Am I seeing the top part of that bolt without threading?

That's like using a wedge to split firewood. Made of cast steel. (even less forgiving)

DON'T reuse that bolt next time and expect different results.

I hope I'm just seeing things! LOL

Good luck!

 

Not the bolt I used when it broke that's an old throttle body bolt I chose if a nut was going to work securing it down but it didn't tighten down evenly so I chose to replace it, I still have the original bolt

 

Have you replace the front header (radiator side) and eliminated the huge freakin' pre-cat?

 

yupp i actually did the full exhaust engine back, FED spec LIM will be here saturday

 

Tightening your fuel rail onto the LIM I assume you replaced the crimped O-rings that flooded your engine. Were you able to purchase them locally or on the internet?

 

i purchased them from the ebay link you or CS_AR provided, worked like a charm i heated up the pintle caps in some water on the stove to get them on and noticed the difference with the way i lubed the injecters this time they practically slid right in