Colder plugs?
Colder plugs?
Just curious, what all the deal with colder plugs is.. what they do exactly/why, and what "step" colder plugs i should use on my car.. right now i am just on my normal ones.. is there any real reason to change?
Re: Colder plugs?
Originally posted by hlh0501
Just curious, what all the deal with colder plugs is.. what they do exactly/why, and what "step" colder plugs i should use on my car.. right now i am just on my normal ones.. is there any real reason to change?
Just curious, what all the deal with colder plugs is.. what they do exactly/why, and what "step" colder plugs i should use on my car.. right now i am just on my normal ones.. is there any real reason to change?
Re: Colder plugs?
Originally posted by hlh0501
Just curious, what all the deal with colder plugs is.. what they do exactly/why, and what "step" colder plugs i should use on my car.. right now i am just on my normal ones.. is there any real reason to change?
Just curious, what all the deal with colder plugs is.. what they do exactly/why, and what "step" colder plugs i should use on my car.. right now i am just on my normal ones.. is there any real reason to change?
Colder plugs helps prevent detonation. Some said to have seen EGTs decreased by ~200 degrees with 2 step colder plugs.
In the winter, the car is harder to start, will idle rough (until warm), and will lag more until boost kicks. But...you can run higher boost then you could without em...
Also, you have to decrease the gap by .004 for every 50hp you add over stock.
In the winter, the car is harder to start, will idle rough (until warm), and will lag more until boost kicks. But...you can run higher boost then you could without em...
Also, you have to decrease the gap by .004 for every 50hp you add over stock.
The depth of the plug reaches a shorter distance into the top of each cylinder and does not get as hot when combustion occurs and that is why they are called "colder"...one item is they require more frequent checks as since they are colder, they are unable to burn off the carbon deposits left from operation.
Originally posted by WizzaMax
The depth of the plug reaches a shorter distance into the top of each cylinder and does not get as hot when combustion occurs and that is why they are called "colder"...one item is they require more frequent checks as since they are colder, they are unable to burn off the carbon deposits left from operation.
The depth of the plug reaches a shorter distance into the top of each cylinder and does not get as hot when combustion occurs and that is why they are called "colder"...one item is they require more frequent checks as since they are colder, they are unable to burn off the carbon deposits left from operation.
hlh, I'd try one step colder and gap down to ~.037". IMHO
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
hlh, I'd try one step colder and gap down to ~.037". IMHO
hlh, I'd try one step colder and gap down to ~.037". IMHO
is there a certain brand or type that is best? thank you all for the help!
Originally posted by mtrai760
NGK
Copper
BKR6E-11 1-step colder
BKR7E-11 2-step colder
Platinum
PFR6G-11 1-step
PFR7G-11 2-step
I would go with the coppers...
NGK
Copper
BKR6E-11 1-step colder
BKR7E-11 2-step colder
Platinum
PFR6G-11 1-step
PFR7G-11 2-step
I would go with the coppers...
Hey bro, your #'s got me thinking the other day. I want to go 1 stage colder from stock however I've been getting some conflicting info.
Someone please correct me if i'm wrong. I called 2 different nissan dealers and this is what they said. The nissan part #'s for the corrisponding plugs would be OEM/NGK 22401-1p116 and 22401-1p155vw. Now, I have no idea what the #'s mean; however, both the parts managers I talked to went to read the numbers off of the plug boxes. 22401-1p116 had the NGK part # of BKR6ES-11(copper) and 22401-155vw was to be what came in our cars to begin with PFR6G-11(platinum).
I just want to make sure I get the right plugs without having to swap them out a couple of times. Useing them to run a 100 shot and I know the plugs need to be at least 1 stage colder. Is there any standard to go by as to determine when you need 2 stages colder. I don't want to run into detonation problems, yet I want to keep the cars' drivability. Am I doomed to changing plugs at the track everytime I want to run hard or is there a compromise?
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