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Colder plugs?

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Old Nov 20, 2002 | 08:16 PM
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Colder plugs?

Just curious, what all the deal with colder plugs is.. what they do exactly/why, and what "step" colder plugs i should use on my car.. right now i am just on my normal ones.. is there any real reason to change?
Old Nov 20, 2002 | 08:21 PM
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Re: Colder plugs?

Originally posted by hlh0501
Just curious, what all the deal with colder plugs is.. what they do exactly/why, and what "step" colder plugs i should use on my car.. right now i am just on my normal ones.. is there any real reason to change?
is your car detonating?
Old Nov 20, 2002 | 08:49 PM
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Re: Colder plugs?

Originally posted by hlh0501
Just curious, what all the deal with colder plugs is.. what they do exactly/why, and what "step" colder plugs i should use on my car.. right now i am just on my normal ones.. is there any real reason to change?
if your talking about spark plugs ... i don't think it makes a difference
Old Nov 20, 2002 | 09:23 PM
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Colder plugs helps prevent detonation. Some said to have seen EGTs decreased by ~200 degrees with 2 step colder plugs.

In the winter, the car is harder to start, will idle rough (until warm), and will lag more until boost kicks. But...you can run higher boost then you could without em...

Also, you have to decrease the gap by .004 for every 50hp you add over stock.
Old Nov 20, 2002 | 10:17 PM
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The depth of the plug reaches a shorter distance into the top of each cylinder and does not get as hot when combustion occurs and that is why they are called "colder"...one item is they require more frequent checks as since they are colder, they are unable to burn off the carbon deposits left from operation.
Old Nov 21, 2002 | 05:50 AM
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Originally posted by WizzaMax
The depth of the plug reaches a shorter distance into the top of each cylinder and does not get as hot when combustion occurs and that is why they are called "colder"...one item is they require more frequent checks as since they are colder, they are unable to burn off the carbon deposits left from operation.
Actually, they sit as far in the combustion chamber as the standard heat range. The ceramic area surrounding the center electrode is deeper into the plug. This gives the ceramic material more area to absorb heat and transfer it out to the cylinder head. Colder plugs remove more heat from the combustion chamber than a warmer one. A cooler combustion chamber is les likley do detonate than a hotter one, so you can safely add more power to a point. You will suffer some low end power loss if you go 2 steps or more, but you could make it up on the top by adding even more boost. For a boosted daily driver one step is the best bet.

hlh, I'd try one step colder and gap down to ~.037". IMHO
Old Nov 21, 2002 | 08:22 AM
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Originally posted by MardiGrasMax


hlh, I'd try one step colder and gap down to ~.037". IMHO
thank you very much, I am going to now. I do not have any trouble with detonation with the car tuned in now, although i wish i had known this earlier haha because you try running 10-12psi with ONLY a fpr as your fuel mods... factory fuel pump haha, doesn't work. I now have my new fuel pump and can run 10-12 with no problems at all. but never can be too safe - and a guy in the shop with a turbo prelude was talking about how they kept trying different step colder and different gap and got me to wondering.

is there a certain brand or type that is best? thank you all for the help!
Old Nov 21, 2002 | 08:32 AM
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NGK
Copper
BKR6E-11 1-step colder
BKR7E-11 2-step colder
Platinum
PFR6G-11 1-step
PFR7G-11 2-step

I would go with the coppers...

Old Dec 16, 2002 | 02:14 PM
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Originally posted by mtrai760
NGK
Copper
BKR6E-11 1-step colder
BKR7E-11 2-step colder
Platinum
PFR6G-11 1-step
PFR7G-11 2-step

I would go with the coppers...


Hey bro, your #'s got me thinking the other day. I want to go 1 stage colder from stock however I've been getting some conflicting info.
Someone please correct me if i'm wrong. I called 2 different nissan dealers and this is what they said. The nissan part #'s for the corrisponding plugs would be OEM/NGK 22401-1p116 and 22401-1p155vw. Now, I have no idea what the #'s mean; however, both the parts managers I talked to went to read the numbers off of the plug boxes. 22401-1p116 had the NGK part # of BKR6ES-11(copper) and 22401-155vw was to be what came in our cars to begin with PFR6G-11(platinum).

I just want to make sure I get the right plugs without having to swap them out a couple of times. Useing them to run a 100 shot and I know the plugs need to be at least 1 stage colder. Is there any standard to go by as to determine when you need 2 stages colder. I don't want to run into detonation problems, yet I want to keep the cars' drivability. Am I doomed to changing plugs at the track everytime I want to run hard or is there a compromise?
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