Ok, I finished the install finally this morning. Me and my cousin did every single step in the Stillen instructions, but I think maybe we did somehing wrong. We went to start it up after adding all the fluids and checking all the lines, and it won't start. We see that the belt is turning without a problem, but it seems like its not firing up. My cousin thinks it might not be getting gas because it sounds like the time when I tried to start it up with a blown fuel pump fuse, but this time the fuse is good. Also, I couldn't get the hose coming from the Bosch bypass valve to the air filter, since it isn't connected, could that be the problem? I then tried coupling another hose to that hose and connecting it to the air filter, an still no luck. Should I remove the Bosch and try using the Blitz blow-off valve? What are the most common reasons for why it wouldn' start up? Someone please help me, I hate to do a week's amount of SC install work and nothing to show for it. This is so frustrating.

Thanks,
Ben

 

Yes Someone please help him!!! I want to ride in his car tomorrow night!!

 

1) Is the add on fuel pump "buzzing"? If not, its not ketting power of the relay is wrong?

2) The fuel lines could be backwards. Make sure they are right. You might just want to reverse them at the motor and see if it starts. I did this once and the car would not start.

 

Hmm, I don't hear buzzing from the fuel pump, but I do hear it from the oem relay box directly in front of the battery. Did it always do that when you turn the key to the on position? I just checked the fuel lines and they seem right. At first I didn't attach a new hose directly from the outlet of the fuel filter, I just attached it after the brass pipe where there was a 4" fuel hose. I removed the 4" fuel hose and attached the hose there assuming that it was still getting fuel from the outlet of the fuel filter, just 5" closer to the front of the car. I went ahead and directly attached it to the filter even though I did notice that there was fuel in the hose that was attached after the brass pipe. Thanks Matt for replying. I'm tryin to get this done right. I also checked out the your other reply about the belt tension, looks like I have to loosen mine up a little. My fuel relay came already assembled with the red, yellow, and black wires attached. I assumed they were correct. Do you happen to have a diagram of which wire goes where? I'm not sure if the V1 is any different. Please get back to me with your thoughts.

Thanks,
Ben

 

When the shop installed my SC, the car wouldn't start. They unplugged a grey plug with green center and shaved it down to fit correctly. I don't know what it was for, but it was on the left side of the engine behind the SC.

 

Actually the car should run at idle even if the "boost" pump is not running. The pump may only run if their is boost, somthing Stillen did... If you disconnect the vaccume line from the relay assembly the pump should turn on.

I bet you have the fuel lines backwards.

Pull a plug and check for fuel. If their is fuel then you have no spark. If their is no fuel you have the fuel lines on backwards.

Or...

Is the MAF connected again?

I dont know about the buzzing from the relay box.

Check your fuel pump fuse?

 

Hmm, should I try to remove the vacuum line from the relay assembly? Which line exactly is that? If I have the fuel lines backwards where should I check for the fuel? I'm guessing after the pump? I did pull a line and it did have fuel, though it was the first line coming from the fuel filter. Yes, the MAF is connected again and all hoses and clamps are secured from leaks. So the pump actually makes a sound when the key is in the ON position, and Stillen says it shuts off when the car starts, is that right?

 

Also check that the cam position sensor plug is fully seated (it clicks in place)... This kept me from starting my car for a week after the install..

... you should smell gas after a few starting attempts from the tailpipe if there is fuel.

 

How the h*ll did you know? I noticed I had the lines on the fuel pump backwards, running the outlet of the pump back to the tank. Your the man Matt. Now, my question is with this Blitz BOV, where do I leave the setting of the valve adjuster? I'm guessing too tight would be for higher boost cars? Well, I have to adjust that and install my VB tomorrow because tonight it seemed like the auto tranny was hunting for gears. I really babied it tonight. I wasn't sure if there was a break-in period for the blower, is there?

Thanks,
Ben

 

Not sure about a break in period, but take it easy till your sure its all running good anyways. Their is a warp up period for the blower. You must wait till the water temp has been in the normal warm position for 5 min. until you go above 2500rpms, IIRC.

The BOV should vent air at idle then if you blip the throttle it should close. It should vent just enough air so the car dosent stall or "hunt" at idle.

 

Just careful you dont strip that bolt/nut on the BOV. I missed this post. But he knows it had something to do with the fuel pump or hoses. Something similar happened to me and Mardigrasmax came over to fix/look at it.

 

Well, he solved my problem and everything is fine now. I also changed my BLitz to the Greddy a few days ago and I did read the other guy's post about the stripped bolt, so I've been very careful with adjusting my BOV's. Thanks though.

 

did you notice any difference between the biltz and greddy bov?

why did you swicth?

 

I switched mainly for sound and looks, I doubt performance differs much. I like Greddy's higher/louder pitch over the Blitz. The Blitz is okay though since it just bolts right on, the Greddy has to have the flange welded on.