question before getting a V2
#1
question before getting a V2
ok i want to get a supercharger for my 97 se. i heard there are problems with the v2 kit from stillen. i just wanna get an idea of what kinda troubles and if they are easy to cure. and if u guys changed ur pullys for more boost, how much can u go with it being fail proof safe. also what other BOV work with the stillen kit.
thanks
jason
thanks
jason
#2
Re: question before getting a V2
Originally posted by M A L
ok i want to get a supercharger for my 97 se. i heard there are problems with the v2 kit from stillen. i just wanna get an idea of what kinda troubles and if they are easy to cure. and if u guys changed ur pullys for more boost, how much can u go with it being fail proof safe. also what other BOV work with the stillen kit.
thanks
jason
ok i want to get a supercharger for my 97 se. i heard there are problems with the v2 kit from stillen. i just wanna get an idea of what kinda troubles and if they are easy to cure. and if u guys changed ur pullys for more boost, how much can u go with it being fail proof safe. also what other BOV work with the stillen kit.
thanks
jason
Problems: The most common I read about was the plastic idler pully melting. Stillen claims they fixed it. I (and many others here) purchased aluminum (or steel) ones from aspracing.com.
BOV's: Stillen recommens the Blitz, as it will bolt right to the stock flange. I would imagine just about any BOV will work, its just a matter of getting the correct flange welded to the piping.
#3
No real problems with the stock 3.6" pulley. You may want to invest in some metal pulleys to be safe... ASP makes them.
If you change to a smaller pulley to increase boost... make sure you can support it with fuel system. Make sure you align the pulleys and belts and have the belt tension adjust right. Depending how small the pulley, you may have to grind part of the bracket to clear the belt. AFAIK, only the Blitz BOV will fit the stock Stillen pipe.
Use search for additional details.
If you change to a smaller pulley to increase boost... make sure you can support it with fuel system. Make sure you align the pulleys and belts and have the belt tension adjust right. Depending how small the pulley, you may have to grind part of the bracket to clear the belt. AFAIK, only the Blitz BOV will fit the stock Stillen pipe.
Use search for additional details.
#4
try a search on your questions and read couple 4th gen and 5th gen FAQs. This topic has been discussed for many times.
try search following
melt AND pulley
belt AND align
belt AND shred
crank AND diameter
hobb AND switch
if you have an auto, make sure you beef up your auto tranny.
welcome to Maxima.org
try search following
melt AND pulley
belt AND align
belt AND shred
crank AND diameter
hobb AND switch
if you have an auto, make sure you beef up your auto tranny.
welcome to Maxima.org
#5
Your driving style will dictate whether you can get by with the stock plastic pulleys. I just babied my car most of the time. No track, just a few spirited spurts of driving and one auto-cross. I installed my V2 back in Oct. 2000 and it was until Nov. 2002 I replaced the idler pulley with the aluminum one from DanNY when he was still manufacturing them. My tensioner pulley is still plastic although I have the aluminum one. I switched back to the plastic as I was having lots of belt slippage during the winter months. I thought my plastic pulleys were showing signs of melting but I discovered that it was residue from the melting belts! Scraped the hard goo off and the surface was intact!
The thing you have to be careful of is overtightening the drive belt. Overtightening will cause premature blower bearing wear and you'll hear the marbles-in-a-can noise. This was something I did to myself because of the belt slippage.
Oh yeah, if you're auto you'll need a tranny cooler and a VB mod. I've got the B&M Supercooler while others have the Hayden model. I got my VB mod through Mobiltek.
The thing you have to be careful of is overtightening the drive belt. Overtightening will cause premature blower bearing wear and you'll hear the marbles-in-a-can noise. This was something I did to myself because of the belt slippage.
Oh yeah, if you're auto you'll need a tranny cooler and a VB mod. I've got the B&M Supercooler while others have the Hayden model. I got my VB mod through Mobiltek.
#7
Originally posted by M A L
its 5spd. so under normal use, its fine? no belt shreads etc? ok then i think i will consider it. whats the difference between the v1 and v2?
jason
its 5spd. so under normal use, its fine? no belt shreads etc? ok then i think i will consider it. whats the difference between the v1 and v2?
jason
Only difference is the blower design, hence V1 versus V2(SC trim). I believe its described on the Vortech website. You can't get a new V1 anyways. The mounting plate design is slightly different as well.
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/units/
#8
Originally posted by M A L
its 5spd. so under normal use, its fine? no belt shreads etc? ok then i think i will consider it. whats the difference between the v1 and v2?
jason
its 5spd. so under normal use, its fine? no belt shreads etc? ok then i think i will consider it. whats the difference between the v1 and v2?
jason
#9
Originally posted by Stephen Max
The main difference between the V1 and the V2 kit, besides the mounting bracket difference, is that the V1 blower has straight cut spur gears, which are inherently noisy when spinning in an unloaded condition at idle. Vortech used helical cut spur gears in the V2, eliminating the noise at idle.
The main difference between the V1 and the V2 kit, besides the mounting bracket difference, is that the V1 blower has straight cut spur gears, which are inherently noisy when spinning in an unloaded condition at idle. Vortech used helical cut spur gears in the V2, eliminating the noise at idle.
now you gotta admit, that is pretty kewl...
this goes under the GTK info link
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally posted by BlackCat
I replaced the idler pulley with the aluminum one from DanNY when he was still manufacturing them. My tensioner pulley is still plastic although I have the aluminum one. I switched back to the plastic as I was having lots of belt slippage during the winter months. I thought my plastic pulleys were showing signs of melting but I discovered that it was residue from the melting belts! Scraped the hard goo off and the surface was intact!
I replaced the idler pulley with the aluminum one from DanNY when he was still manufacturing them. My tensioner pulley is still plastic although I have the aluminum one. I switched back to the plastic as I was having lots of belt slippage during the winter months. I thought my plastic pulleys were showing signs of melting but I discovered that it was residue from the melting belts! Scraped the hard goo off and the surface was intact!
( KNOCK ON WOOD )
everything was done by jeff @ max tuning
#12
Originally posted by GoldenGlory
i bought my V2 from NYM jay jay with DanNy's pulleys ..havent hand any problems as of yet
( KNOCK ON WOOD )
everything was done by jeff @ max tuning
i bought my V2 from NYM jay jay with DanNy's pulleys ..havent hand any problems as of yet
( KNOCK ON WOOD )
everything was done by jeff @ max tuning
#14
Originally posted by SprintMax
who supercharges a car to baby it?
who supercharges a car to baby it?
#15
Originally posted by SprintMax
who supercharges a car to baby it?
who supercharges a car to baby it?
I think I'm babying it in comparision to some of the others here.
After last Novembers' experience I'm starting to treat it like how we handle our Canadian Sea King helicopters up here: For every hour of flight there's 30 hours of maintenance downtime.
#16
Originally posted by SprintMax
who supercharges a car to baby it?
who supercharges a car to baby it?
#17
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Re: question before getting a V2
1. Blitz BOV
2. ASP metal pullies (idler no rails & belt tensioner pulley w/rails)
3. If you have money left a oil cooler
thats all you will need for the V2 kit, but its optional the kit comes with everything you need, you may need to run to autoparts store to get some hoses and maybe a couple of clamps and plastic vacuum T's etc..
thats all the info the man was asking for.
when I got the blower I had the 3.33 option or the 3.25 so I went for the 3.25 and tuned/tweeked everything from there with the help of Mardigrasmax.
2. ASP metal pullies (idler no rails & belt tensioner pulley w/rails)
3. If you have money left a oil cooler
thats all you will need for the V2 kit, but its optional the kit comes with everything you need, you may need to run to autoparts store to get some hoses and maybe a couple of clamps and plastic vacuum T's etc..
thats all the info the man was asking for.
when I got the blower I had the 3.33 option or the 3.25 so I went for the 3.25 and tuned/tweeked everything from there with the help of Mardigrasmax.
#18
Re: question before getting a V2
Originally posted by M A L
ok i want to get a supercharger for my 97 se. i heard there are problems with the v2 kit from stillen. i just wanna get an idea of what kinda troubles and if they are easy to cure. and if u guys changed ur pullys for more boost, how much can u go with it being fail proof safe. also what other BOV work with the stillen kit.
thanks
jason
ok i want to get a supercharger for my 97 se. i heard there are problems with the v2 kit from stillen. i just wanna get an idea of what kinda troubles and if they are easy to cure. and if u guys changed ur pullys for more boost, how much can u go with it being fail proof safe. also what other BOV work with the stillen kit.
thanks
jason
for you if you want to buy
Alot of extras with it.
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