On my way into work today I lost all boost. There was a bit of a sputter (for lack of a better term) and then no more boost. The car continued to run fine but showed constant vaccuum regardless of how much I got into the throttle. My EGTs are low/fine and temp was fine too. In fact, the car felt pretty good.

I checked all vaccum lines, couplers and assorted fittings to no avail. Did my snail just go bad? No oil leaks or visible problems from the quick roadside and parking lot checks.

I tested the gauge and boost controller and both went through their normal power-on sequences and appear to be working correctly.

Thoughts?

 

Make sure non of your vaccuum lines are not pinched or anything. I remember when I was rewiring my vaccuum hoses I had accidently capped the one going to the vias off.. And I had no boost. Uncapped it and I was spooling back in business

 

Hmm Did your boost/IC pipe blow off? It shouldn't be a bad turbo. There's a warranty on those since they are brand new. You might want to check vacuum lines (as mentioned) One of my pipes had blown off just partially, enough not to make boost but not quite enough to make it run badly. Mine was at the TB but it could happen any place there is a joint.

If you are genuinely concerned about the turbo, you can disconnect the boost pipe to the turbo and spin it by hand. It should spin freely. Unless oil didn't get to the turbo housing, it should be fine.

 

hi Joa

Any news? I hope you found the problem!

 

Yeah, I got it but now have the CEL on and p0300 (0701) which equates to multiple cylinder misfire. :mercy: :mercy:

 

Uh oh...

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? You may want to pull your plugs and check the gap.

Did any of your tapped fittings fly off?

 

I guess I'm driving my truck with the jacked up steering column. Hey, the cool part about it is that I don't even need a key to start it, just a screwdriver. Man, I went from 2 perfectly good vehicles down to 0 in just 3 days time and my clubs are gone on top of that. DAMMMIT!

 

 

Hi Joa

I had this mysterious problem before too! I have posted this in the past after my engine was flooded with fuel. If your boost pipe blew off, you may have been trying to drive it and it would run real rich. You may have fouled the plugs and or the O2 sensors. My O2 sensors got fouled pretty badly and threw multiple misfire code sometimes and cyclinder 5 misfire sometimes along with O2 sensor code I managed to clean them (O2 sensors) up with some brake kleen. They did get cleaned up a little and didn't throw the O2 codes but still got misfire code. I replaced the O2 sensors and they all went away no more of any codes! I found that cleaning them up improved the responsiveness of the O2 sensors (I hooked them up to a scope and also had it connected to an A/F gauge) but when I hooked up new sensors, the responsiveness was so much better! I cannot guarantee this will work for you, but that's what happened to me. I don't know how many miles you have on your car, my O2s were probably getting close to end of life considering that the O2s have been abused a lot not understanding the effects of trying to run the car without a MAF (some of it was me forgetting to hook up the MAF but the muffler shop was trying to drive it around without a MAF) so running rich again more recently just put it over the edge. you might be able to find my post, I think it was in March ... dunno if I followed up with my solution though.

Hope this helps!

 

Yeah, that's pretty much my thought but the boost pipe hasn't been off for at least a month. That just happened once during initial testing and never indicated any trouble. I'm definitely still flooding with fuel at this point but hadn't planned to drive the car much. I planned on doing the O2 sensors anyway after running so rich. I have like 62K on my car right now. Cleared the code last night and it didn't come back on today during a very soft-throttle drive into work.

 

12:1 disc is too much... drop down to 8:1. I just remembered that you are using 12:1.

 

Thanks, on it.

 

DAMMMMIT! So I'm going about 80 in 5th, punch it to about 2/3rd throttle and hear what sounds like the BOV dumping while I'm still on it. Just a kinda loud/smooth PSHHHH. After that, car seemed fine but again, no boost. Then I get to a stop and she dies. I get her rolling but she's running really rough. I finally have to pull over cuz I can't keep it running. Again, everything is connected and looks fine, nothing melted and no visible leaks. Only now the car runs like complete @$$ if it runs at all.

I haven't pulled codes yet but will tonight. Sound familiar to anyone?

 

Sounds like a leak ... Open you hood and temporarily disconnect the vacuum line to your BOV (Plug up the line!). This will keep the BOV closed... Pull on the throttle cable and listen for the air leak... You shouldn't need to rev it up too much.

 

Pull your plugs. That sounds like me on 4 cylinders.

 

Hi Joa

Did you install a variable intake? We've found that the rubber gaskets, if not installed quite right will blow and your car will idle/run like @$$. Is idle erratic? Does it idle with vacuum constant vacuum? The rubber gaskets seem to be a weakness. I have never had any problems with mine other than when I first installed it, I used a gasket sealer and it slipped out of place blowing like a ****! If it is blowing you may see some oil pooling around the intake after a while.

It sounds like something's loose! You can try Kev's suggestion, though I am not sure why it would happen all of a sudden after just 2/3rd load. Misfiring gives the same symptoms.

 

Just thought of one more thing:

Try to rotate the BOV in its seat. If it is loose, the retaining clip was not seated properly.

If you still can't figure it out, try to put your CAI pipe back in to bypass the turbo system altogether. Move the MAF if you have to, I am not sure the CAI will reach the MAF but you can try. That way you can at least get a feel for whether the turbo piping has a leak or it's an engine issue. We can then go from there.

 

Any update mang?