VQ Building Time!
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 348
From: West Fargo, ND 58078
VQ Building Time!
OK, you guys are the experts here so I'm hoping to get some good pointers on building a 4th gen VQ for a F/I set up. I have a spare '98 motor out of the car (have not had it m-fluxed yet though). If it checks out OK, I'm going to get it rebuilt with some modificiations to the internals. I'm planning on lowering the compression to about 8.5 or 9 among other things. So here are my q's:
What is the best way to lower compression (have heard of different tactics used by different people, spacer plates, different piston configs, etc)?
Can/Should the head and valves be re-worked?
Who makes good cams that could still be used for street driving?
Where to go to get pistons and rods for a slightly bored VQ? Rings?
Which shop is best at building VQs?
Can the block handle a larger bore, if so, up to what?
Will the headstuds pop?
Will the OEM main bearings handle insane pressures?
Should the tranny be cryo'ed? How about the crank? Other items?
What else should I worry about?
Am I wasting my time?
I know some people may think that I'd be better off just buying a 300ZXTT or a SupraTT... but, regretfully, my response is: boooring. I'm also assuming that a butt-load of $$$ will be involved... yes, 5 figures could easily be going into this project.
But this has been a dream of mine for a long time so I WILL BUILD THIS THING.
Thanks in advance for your time guys.
D
What is the best way to lower compression (have heard of different tactics used by different people, spacer plates, different piston configs, etc)?
Can/Should the head and valves be re-worked?
Who makes good cams that could still be used for street driving?
Where to go to get pistons and rods for a slightly bored VQ? Rings?
Which shop is best at building VQs?
Can the block handle a larger bore, if so, up to what?
Will the headstuds pop?
Will the OEM main bearings handle insane pressures?
Should the tranny be cryo'ed? How about the crank? Other items?
What else should I worry about?
Am I wasting my time?
I know some people may think that I'd be better off just buying a 300ZXTT or a SupraTT... but, regretfully, my response is: boooring. I'm also assuming that a butt-load of $$$ will be involved... yes, 5 figures could easily be going into this project.
But this has been a dream of mine for a long time so I WILL BUILD THIS THING.Thanks in advance for your time guys.
D
Re: VQ Building Time!
Originally posted by sleepermaxima
What is the best way to lower compression (have heard of different tactics used by different people, spacer plates, different piston configs, etc)?
Can/Should the head and valves be re-worked?
Who makes good cams that could still be used for street driving?
Where to go to get pistons and rods for a slightly bored VQ? Rings?
Which shop is best at building VQs?
Can the block handle a larger bore, if so, up to what?
Will the headstuds pop?
Will the OEM main bearings handle insane pressures?
Should the tranny be cryo'ed? How about the crank? Other items?
What else should I worry about?
Am I wasting my time?
What is the best way to lower compression (have heard of different tactics used by different people, spacer plates, different piston configs, etc)?
Can/Should the head and valves be re-worked?
Who makes good cams that could still be used for street driving?
Where to go to get pistons and rods for a slightly bored VQ? Rings?
Which shop is best at building VQs?
Can the block handle a larger bore, if so, up to what?
Will the headstuds pop?
Will the OEM main bearings handle insane pressures?
Should the tranny be cryo'ed? How about the crank? Other items?
What else should I worry about?
Am I wasting my time?
For FI polishing the heads and spending money on the heads is a waste, IMHO. Sure their are gains their, but why spend 3k on that when you can just turn up the bost a little more to get the same results. For NA, sure its necessary, for FI, nope. Blue print the heads, if the specs are all in range dont have them re worked, just do the valve stem seals.
Do not have the factory block or heads resurfaced, very few machine shops can match the cut the factory put on them. Just check them for straightness, if they are outa spec, replace them.
Cams are also a waste IMHO on FI, just turn up the boost.
You shouldnt even consider this project with out a factory service manual. Get a FSM to see what the specs are, its trivial to over bore the VQ.
Yes OE head bolts should not be used. I sent SGP Racing a sample of head bolts and main bolts. They are having ARP make sets for the VQ. Call them up and ask for Kyle.
OE bearings are fine.
Get rods made they will be a week link. Eagle, Crower, its all good, just tell them your HP goal and they will make you what you need.
OE head gasket is good of used with head studsn not the OE bolts.
OE Crank is fine as is.
Get a book called "The step by step guide to ENGINE BLUEPRINTING, by Rick Voegelin, published by Cartech, ISBN 1-884086-26-7. This book is geared toward domestic apps but the info on the process is aplicable. I am using it to help my DIY a 3.5L build up for my 98.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 348
From: West Fargo, ND 58078
Re: Re: VQ Building Time!
Jer,
THANK YOU for the bump.
MardiGrasMax,
THANK YOU for the info. This is exactly what I was looking for.





Thanks again,
D
THANK YOU for the bump.
MardiGrasMax,
THANK YOU for the info. This is exactly what I was looking for.
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
I am using it to help my DIY a 3.5L build up for my 98.
I am using it to help my DIY a 3.5L build up for my 98.





Thanks again,
D
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,035
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Re: Re: VQ Building Time!
This is excellent advice and I fully concur! I like the way you think mardigras
"just turn up the boost"
It's absolutely true, I know a guy that spent $3500 on head work, headers exhaust etc ... and made 27 HP! That's ridiculous!
Are the ARP studs available now? Those are the best studs you can get.
I agree that the rods are weak and sickly looking. I look at the stock ones and look at my Eagle rods ... Holy cow! I am surprised I haven't bent a rod yet!
Is there even an alternative to OE crank? I imagine custom would be super $$$
As for cams, no one has proven that there is indeed a real benefit (I agree theoretically there is). But for the $$$ it just isn't worth it. Aren't they like $600 each and there are four of them? .. I can't remember the price.
I am doing zero headwork ... maybe three angle valve job. We'll see what happens!
"just turn up the boost"
It's absolutely true, I know a guy that spent $3500 on head work, headers exhaust etc ... and made 27 HP! That's ridiculous! Are the ARP studs available now? Those are the best studs you can get.
I agree that the rods are weak and sickly looking. I look at the stock ones and look at my Eagle rods ... Holy cow! I am surprised I haven't bent a rod yet!
Is there even an alternative to OE crank? I imagine custom would be super $$$
As for cams, no one has proven that there is indeed a real benefit (I agree theoretically there is). But for the $$$ it just isn't worth it. Aren't they like $600 each and there are four of them? .. I can't remember the price.
I am doing zero headwork ... maybe three angle valve job. We'll see what happens!
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
Get custom pistons made to lower compression. JE, whoever... just tell them what you HP goal is.
For FI polishing the heads and spending money on the heads is a waste, IMHO. Sure their are gains their, but why spend 3k on that when you can just turn up the bost a little more to get the same results. For NA, sure its necessary, for FI, nope. Blue print the heads, if the specs are all in range dont have them re worked, just do the valve stem seals.
Do not have the factory block or heads resurfaced, very few machine shops can match the cut the factory put on them. Just check them for straightness, if they are outa spec, replace them.
Cams are also a waste IMHO on FI, just turn up the boost.
You shouldnt even consider this project with out a factory service manual. Get a FSM to see what the specs are, its trivial to over bore the VQ.
Yes OE head bolts should not be used. I sent SGP Racing a sample of head bolts and main bolts. They are having ARP make sets for the VQ. Call them up and ask for Kyle.
OE bearings are fine.
Get rods made they will be a week link. Eagle, Crower, its all good, just tell them your HP goal and they will make you what you need.
OE head gasket is good of used with head studsn not the OE bolts.
OE Crank is fine as is.
Get a book called "The step by step guide to ENGINE BLUEPRINTING, by Rick Voegelin, published by Cartech, ISBN 1-884086-26-7. This book is geared toward domestic apps but the info on the process is aplicable. I am using it to help my DIY a 3.5L build up for my 98.
Get custom pistons made to lower compression. JE, whoever... just tell them what you HP goal is.
For FI polishing the heads and spending money on the heads is a waste, IMHO. Sure their are gains their, but why spend 3k on that when you can just turn up the bost a little more to get the same results. For NA, sure its necessary, for FI, nope. Blue print the heads, if the specs are all in range dont have them re worked, just do the valve stem seals.
Do not have the factory block or heads resurfaced, very few machine shops can match the cut the factory put on them. Just check them for straightness, if they are outa spec, replace them.
Cams are also a waste IMHO on FI, just turn up the boost.
You shouldnt even consider this project with out a factory service manual. Get a FSM to see what the specs are, its trivial to over bore the VQ.
Yes OE head bolts should not be used. I sent SGP Racing a sample of head bolts and main bolts. They are having ARP make sets for the VQ. Call them up and ask for Kyle.
OE bearings are fine.
Get rods made they will be a week link. Eagle, Crower, its all good, just tell them your HP goal and they will make you what you need.
OE head gasket is good of used with head studsn not the OE bolts.
OE Crank is fine as is.
Get a book called "The step by step guide to ENGINE BLUEPRINTING, by Rick Voegelin, published by Cartech, ISBN 1-884086-26-7. This book is geared toward domestic apps but the info on the process is aplicable. I am using it to help my DIY a 3.5L build up for my 98.
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,035
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
The rods I have cannot work with stock pistons. I have custom pistons that work with these. If you are interested, let me know, I can hook you up with a set.
Originally posted by SLC98Max
Turbo97se where did you get your eagle connecting rods? I am rebuilding my max for forced induction but I am having trouble finding rods.
Turbo97se where did you get your eagle connecting rods? I am rebuilding my max for forced induction but I am having trouble finding rods.
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