Hey guys been about 2weeks, but my custom kit is finally in. We took it for a test spin, to see how it would handle. 1st gear is use-less. 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears hitting 4k on the rev band, allows me to break tires loose. The boost is at 4.5 PSI. Unfortunately, my egt and fuel pressure gauges have not arrived yet.

We will install the Vortec Super FMU as a stand-alone on Wensday to monitor the fuel curve.

The only issue that I'm having, I get peridical back-fires when I rev to 6k, then back to idle. Not sure why, I may need to get colder plugs and re-gap to .028. Some advice on this would be help-full.

I took tons of pics. I'll post it soon. Thanks.

 

Colder plugs will not help back fires. Depending on how your BOV is arranged in your system, if it is between your MAF and TB then your MAF will think there is more air than there actually is and go super rich, perhaps rich enough to cause it to stall. Back fires can be quite normal depending on your exhaust system also.

 

look at the new neon SRT4 for example.. no mufflers but does have resonators, and those definately backfire plenty in stock form.

 

congrats! just take her easy until you have the EGT and fuel p.

 

My BOV is not between the MAF and TB. The BOV is situated in this order.

1. Filter
2. MAF
3. Turbo Inlet
4. Intercooler - Inlet
5. Intercooler - Outlet
6. BOV
7. TB

One other issue I'm having, the car will stall a bit at idle after reving. In some cases it may shut down totally.

 

Your BOV is between the MAF and TB. Air is sucked through the filter, through the MAF then pushed out the turbo, through the IC, then through the BOV and finally through the MAF.

Your stalling is caused by your BOV being between the MAF and TB. It happens on PFI's kits too because your arrangement is similar to theirs. If you have a 4th gen, you can move the MAF to the charged side, or you can use an SAFC to prevent the stalling. I'm not sure of the settings, you'd have to check with Nigel (Turbo97SE) he's the expert on that.

 

Im not knocking on your comment, but you say 2nd, 3rd, and 4th, you can break the tires loose at 4000rpm. On 4th that would be well over 80mph and to break the tires loose at 80mph on 4.5psi is not really feasible to me. It takes a good 400whp to break tires loose at 80+mph. Chirp maybe, not break them loose.

Lets see those pictures, I want to see another custom job. Like to see what everyone comes up with.

Dixit

 

Congrats

 

I was wondering what size turbo are you using? What are the specs on it?

 

You can also prevent stalling by running a recirculation hose from the bov to a point in between the maf and the turbo, so that metered air is not lost to atmosphere.

 

I understand you and your right!! This is what happend. When we did our test runs, we did not have any gauges at that time to fall back on. We assumed we were using a 4psi spring for the wastgate, but we were wrong. We installed a cheap boost gauge to check, and it turned out the car was overboosting around 10-12 psi, which was "WAY TO HIGH" with our setup. We could have blown the motor. The spring in the waste gate was not 4 pounds. The shop which sent me the external wastegate screwed up! The spring must have been like .5 or .8 bar. So we got the correct spring. Night and Day difference. We can peel 1st and 2nd and cheerp only 3rd. 4th is no longer in the picture. Hope that explains it.


So yeah we found out the hard way. Could have been costly.

I will post pics. Dont worry we took plenty of shots. Thanks.

 

Good deal, glad you caught that, test runs you always gotta take it easy.

Dixit

 

Its a T3/T4 Hybrid. If I remeber the numbers, the exhaust side is .43
and the inlet size is .63. The turbo is not that big. Not like a T40E.

The things spools very quick. At 2200 rpm I make full boost to 4psi. I was hoping to get full boost at around 3500. Maybe I'll shop around for a T40E.

For now I'm a bit satisified.

 

.43ar on the exhaust side of a T3 is very small actually, it may spool ultra quick, but thats gonna be a problem up top. Its going to top out really quick. Thats the biggest drawback.

Backpressure if going to be an issue as well.

Dixit

 

Will this work? Has it been done before?... I would hate to do this and the things does not work.

 

I see. Well I looks as if I need to upgrade in the near future.

 

Dam that bits... I would perfer to correct this problem quick. When Im driving lets say in 2nd gear at 30mph, then ease off the gas pedal and sink the clutch down. The rpm will drop from 3000k to 2000k to 1000k, then to 0 and shut down. In order for me to prevent it from happing, I need to tease the gas pedal while on the clutch, between 1000k and 700k decelerating to keep the idle up. Then it will sputer slightly then the idle position will remain constant. It's a pain in the ***.

Now moving the MAF on the charged side of the turbo would fix this??

If you have pics please post it... I would like to see this.

Thanks.

 

http://www.evolution-autodesign.com/projects/max2.htm

See how the MAF is right by the TB like on the STillen SC setups. The BOV is near the passenger side headlight. That setup hasn't stalled yet from letting off the throttle.

When you put the MAF after the BOV, it will cause stalling when you back off after flooring it. The MAF measured a certain amount of air going in, the BOV released a lot of that air so your engine never sees it. This throws off your ECU. So either you have to move the MAF, or get the SAFC.

Oh, and .43 is really small for a Maxima. It's smaller than the .48 turbo we're using on an Intega which is a 1.8L 4 cylinder. And that car sees full boost by 2800 RPM.

On the T04E in Jason's car, it's got a .63 AR and the car hits full boost before 3.5K.

 

Thanks Shadow for this info. I will start re-routing my MAF to the TB, illustrated from your picture. And as far .43 I'll put in a bigger unit. Thanks.

 

It works for me just fine. But if you're sticking with the A32 maf you might as well put it just in front of the TB, like Shadow says.

 

"We will install the Vortec Super FMU as a stand-alone on Wensday to monitor the fuel curve. " First off, this statement makes no sense at all, second: were you test driving the setup with no fmu??? @ 12 psi!!!!! I would check your compression.

 

I see. Well today we went along with shadows idea and relocated the MAF. One thing we notice, was a much better response during boosting. I also relocated my Air-filter inside the wheel-well. Big difference in throttle response.

Once complete, we tried testing again. We reved the motor while in Neutral up to its limiter and the idle fell back into place. Before it would have dropped to 0 then shutdown.

However, we have another issue. While driving, if your are doing say 60mph while in gear, then sink the clutch, the rmps will dropped hard and then the car will shutdown.

My only way to resolve this is to down-shift until the idle comes low, then put into Neutral to come to a complete stop.

Not sure why, but a friend of my told me that this may be dued to my light-weight fly wheel. But I dout that!!!

 

???? Well ok?? First-off, the Vortec SFMU was still being shipped and would be in by Wensday. Our testing was done prior. So when we did our testing we did not have an FMU to begin with. And we tested it assuming there was a 4 pound spring. And like I said the spring was not a 4 pounder. My compression checked fine, none the less...

Hope it clarified things.



QUOTE=on_alert]"We will install the Vortec Super FMU as a stand-alone on Wensday to monitor the fuel curve. " First off, this statement makes no sense at all, second: were you test driving the setup with no fmu??? @ 12 psi!!!!! I would check your compression.[/QUOTE]

 

try messing with your blow off valve for the near stall after putting the clutch in.. open it a little bit and drive, open it more and drive, etc.. and see if that helps at all.

 

I just tightened my BOV and it doesnt stall as much. It does it once in a while. Whistle is still very loud

 

the points i was trying to make were:
a) vortech is not a stand alone unit, it works with your existing fuel system
b) it doesnt moniter the fuel curve, it boosts fuel pressure. thus adding more fuel.
c) even 4 psi is not safe w/out an fmu, and you saw 12!!! even if it was briefly!!! you are extremely lucky that your motor isn't toast.

 

Vortech's SFMU is a stand alone unit. It can adjust the base idle pressure.

Dixit

 

my point is that it is not a stand alone fuel management setup. It is a mechanical piggyback. If it was a stand alone then you wouldnt need the stock ECU for fuel. an SAFC or emanage is a electronic piggyback.

 

Yes Im very lucky that my motor held. But, to be honest , Vortec makes the Super FMU. It can run piggy back or it can run standalone. That is a fact. I would prefer standalone, The only thing I need is diagram for installation.

 

I want pictures of your setup.

 

You guys dont understand what stand alone fuel management is. Can you take your stock ECU out and run the vortech SFMU... no. Therefore, it is not standalone. It works with your existing ECU, that is a fact. It is therefore a piggyback unit: fact.