look what I got!!!! :)
11-13-2003, 11:51 AM
#1
look what I got!!!! :)
Well I am not really sure if this turbo is any good but if it is not I will sell it back on e-bay. I got a great price on it and I just wanted to know what everyone thinks. 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2442024004
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2442024004
11-13-2003, 11:52 AM
#2
Originally Posted by spanishrice
Well I am not really sure if this turbo is any good but if it is not I will sell it back on e-bay. I got a great price on it and I just wanted to know what everyone thinks.
11-13-2003, 12:56 PM
#8
Before buying it you shouldve checked out to see what the AR and trim on it was. Those are very important. Just having a t3/t4 dont mean anything if you dont have the right spec. You got something like a 1.2ar on the turbine side, that is not going to be good, its going to take at least till 4500 to spool. If the turbine ar is like .43 you will choke by the time you get to 5000rpm or so on a v6 like ours.
Also the compressor side trim and ar makes a big difference. Same applies there. That is why people spend alot of time mapping things to a compressor map to see which one fits the car the best.
Wheather this sounds bad or not, I have to say it. You cant just buy a turbo like you are walking into a market and picking something off the shelf unless you know thats what you want.
For your sake, I hope the turbo is near the right specs to work out for you. Being that it came from a 6.5l Diesel I gaurantee the turbine AR is well above 1.0.
Dixit
Also the compressor side trim and ar makes a big difference. Same applies there. That is why people spend alot of time mapping things to a compressor map to see which one fits the car the best.
Wheather this sounds bad or not, I have to say it. You cant just buy a turbo like you are walking into a market and picking something off the shelf unless you know thats what you want.
For your sake, I hope the turbo is near the right specs to work out for you. Being that it came from a 6.5l Diesel I gaurantee the turbine AR is well above 1.0.
Dixit
11-13-2003, 03:03 PM
#9
If it does not work out I sell it back on e-bay. I want my car to spool around 3500 rpm. I plan to spend 1 grand on parts and 1 grand on a custom turbo manifold, not a reverse y-pipe. I try to work on it this winter but if I don't have the cash I will wait till the summer. 
11-13-2003, 04:34 PM
#10
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,371
the turbine in the pic dont look that big maybe its .81 or somthing, youll only know when you get it but ive been told never to buy a stock diesel turbo for that reson, but when you see one with say a 1.15 A/R hot and .63 A/R cold the turbine always dwarfs tha compressor and in this case its not so you may be lucky
11-13-2003, 07:25 PM
#12
My question is how you plan on making a custom turbo manifold on a V6? You can probably make one for the front, but then what? You going to run the turbo off one bank? Theres no way you going to fit a turbo on the rear manifold cause of space issues.
that turbo also is way to big you want to try to fit it on the front manifold or rear. No way to clear it.
As far as the AR, it should be stamped on the exhaust housing on the outlet and same thing goes for the compressor housing.
Dixit
that turbo also is way to big you want to try to fit it on the front manifold or rear. No way to clear it.
As far as the AR, it should be stamped on the exhaust housing on the outlet and same thing goes for the compressor housing.
Dixit
11-13-2003, 07:40 PM
#13
Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 42
It does look like a turbo from a GM 6.5 TD. I hope you at least get what you paid for. You could have bought one brand new here: http://www.topgunengines.com/catalog...06.htm#image_1
Here's my $0.02. On the plus side a 6.5 TD redlines at about 3500 RPM, so a 3.0 L engine spinning nearly twice as fast should have nearly the same WOT airflow. Second plus: the volumetric efficiency of the VQ will be better than that of the 6.5 particularly at high RPM. Third plus: 6.5 TD engines start to build boost at very low RPM, like below 1500. On the minus side, first, diesel engines effectively run at WOT all the time. There is no throttle butterfly to restrict the flow at part load. My guess is that this means that the A/R is pretty large. Second, a turbo for a diesel engine is likely to be optimized for steady state high load rather than transient boost response. Again, this makes me think that the turbine side is pretty free flowing to minimize exhaust pressure. Third, you’re going to have to buy or fabricate the exhaust flange. Look at picture a7_1.JPG in the lower left of the Ebay page. I think the missing part is an integrated waste gate. That port to the right of the turbine outlet is probably used to vent exhaust gasses before they reach the turbine. Look at the picture in the link above. The missing hardware is there and it looks like there’s a flapper on it
All in all I give you a lot of credit for taking a shot. It will be interesting to see how it works.
Here's my $0.02. On the plus side a 6.5 TD redlines at about 3500 RPM, so a 3.0 L engine spinning nearly twice as fast should have nearly the same WOT airflow. Second plus: the volumetric efficiency of the VQ will be better than that of the 6.5 particularly at high RPM. Third plus: 6.5 TD engines start to build boost at very low RPM, like below 1500. On the minus side, first, diesel engines effectively run at WOT all the time. There is no throttle butterfly to restrict the flow at part load. My guess is that this means that the A/R is pretty large. Second, a turbo for a diesel engine is likely to be optimized for steady state high load rather than transient boost response. Again, this makes me think that the turbine side is pretty free flowing to minimize exhaust pressure. Third, you’re going to have to buy or fabricate the exhaust flange. Look at picture a7_1.JPG in the lower left of the Ebay page. I think the missing part is an integrated waste gate. That port to the right of the turbine outlet is probably used to vent exhaust gasses before they reach the turbine. Look at the picture in the link above. The missing hardware is there and it looks like there’s a flapper on it
All in all I give you a lot of credit for taking a shot. It will be interesting to see how it works.
11-14-2003, 05:23 AM
#14
Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 42
I just took a look at a 6.5 TD engine and I found another plus for you. The turbo on this engine is driven off only one bank of cylinders. This means that the turbine section was sized for flow from 3.25 liters. Also, the system is spec'd to produce 2 psi of boost at idle. Max boost is spec'd at 8 psi, but that's controlable by the waste gate.
Based on this, I think my first thoughts on the turbine section sizing may have been wrong. You may have stumbled on to something really good here.
Based on this, I think my first thoughts on the turbine section sizing may have been wrong. You may have stumbled on to something really good here.
11-14-2003, 08:55 AM
#17
Yall seem to forget one key thing is that diesel creates a MUCH higher volume/cfm of exhaust gas to spin that turbo easier. You cant compare a diesel engine to a unleaded engine as you did above on specs of thinking that it works on a 3.25L diesel so it should work out for the 3Lv6 VQ.
Dixit
Dixit
11-14-2003, 09:18 AM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 344
you can definitely make a manifold for the turbo, and i think you should do it, especially with 1000 dollars to play with. If you remove the AC compressor and condensor, there will be enough room to: run the rear bank forward and run the Downpipe back between the oil pan and the crossmember. Ive checked, it WILL work, if it still had my car, thats what I would be doing right now...
The benifits of the setup are: no decrease in ground clearance, and very fast spool up.
It will spool fast because: a) minimized length of feed manifold b) greatly shortened IC pipe length
Someone needs to do this.
Problems:
no AC
may need a new radiator
may need to use a sump on turbo.
The benifits of the setup are: no decrease in ground clearance, and very fast spool up.
It will spool fast because: a) minimized length of feed manifold b) greatly shortened IC pipe length
Someone needs to do this.
Problems:
no AC
may need a new radiator
may need to use a sump on turbo.
11-14-2003, 09:24 AM
#19
Originally Posted by on_alert
you can definitely make a manifold for the turbo, and i think you should do it, especially with 1000 dollars to play with. If you remove the AC compressor and condensor, there will be enough room to: run the rear bank forward and run the Downpipe back between the oil pan and the crossmember. Ive checked, it WILL work, if it still had my car, thats what I would be doing right now...
The benifits of the setup are: no decrease in ground clearance, and very fast spool up.
It will spool fast because: a) minimized length of feed manifold b) greatly shortened IC pipe length
Someone needs to do this.
Problems:
no AC
may need a new radiator
may need to use a sump on turbo.
The benifits of the setup are: no decrease in ground clearance, and very fast spool up.
It will spool fast because: a) minimized length of feed manifold b) greatly shortened IC pipe length
Someone needs to do this.
Problems:
no AC
may need a new radiator
may need to use a sump on turbo.
11-14-2003, 10:52 AM
#20
Ya I don't understand how you would route the manifold. I thought the rear banks going under the engine but I am not sure. I have to go to a shop and really look in there. I know it should spool way faster because those reverse y-pipes are pretty long and this should be like a 1/4 of the lenght. I don't get how there would be shorter intercooler piping. Where will the turbo be placed? Still in the same place as most Maxima Turbo kits, like right next to valve cover breather?
The exhaust manifold part is easy. There are flanges that block off the internal wastegate part so you can run an external one. I looked that part up before I bid.
I have a question though. If the turbine exit diameter is only 2 inches and the exhaust flange has a 2 inch opeing, should I only use 2 inch downpipe or should I port out flange and use 3 inch downpipe?
The exhaust manifold part is easy. There are flanges that block off the internal wastegate part so you can run an external one. I looked that part up before I bid.
I have a question though. If the turbine exit diameter is only 2 inches and the exhaust flange has a 2 inch opeing, should I only use 2 inch downpipe or should I port out flange and use 3 inch downpipe?
11-14-2003, 10:56 AM
#21
Originally Posted by pblaze
I just took a look at a 6.5 TD engine and I found another plus for you. The turbo on this engine is driven off only one bank of cylinders. This means that the turbine section was sized for flow from 3.25 liters. Also, the system is spec'd to produce 2 psi of boost at idle. Max boost is spec'd at 8 psi, but that's controlable by the waste gate.
Based on this, I think my first thoughts on the turbine section sizing may have been wrong. You may have stumbled on to something really good here.
Based on this, I think my first thoughts on the turbine section sizing may have been wrong. You may have stumbled on to something really good here.
11-14-2003, 11:00 AM
#22
Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 42
Originally Posted by BigDogJonx
Yall seem to forget one key thing is that diesel creates a MUCH higher volume/cfm of exhaust gas to spin that turbo easier. You cant compare a diesel engine to a unleaded engine as you did above on specs of thinking that it works on a 3.25L diesel so it should work out for the 3Lv6 VQ.
Dixit
Dixit
11-14-2003, 11:00 AM
#23
Originally Posted by on_alert
you can definitely make a manifold for the turbo, and i think you should do it, especially with 1000 dollars to play with. If you remove the AC compressor and condensor, there will be enough room to: run the rear bank forward and run the Downpipe back between the oil pan and the crossmember. Ive checked, it WILL work, if it still had my car, thats what I would be doing right now...
The benifits of the setup are: no decrease in ground clearance, and very fast spool up.
It will spool fast because: a) minimized length of feed manifold b) greatly shortened IC pipe length
Someone needs to do this.
Problems:
no AC
may need a new radiator
may need to use a sump on turbo.
The benifits of the setup are: no decrease in ground clearance, and very fast spool up.
It will spool fast because: a) minimized length of feed manifold b) greatly shortened IC pipe length
Someone needs to do this.
Problems:
no AC
may need a new radiator
may need to use a sump on turbo.
11-14-2003, 11:07 AM
#24
Originally Posted by pblaze
I just took a look at a 6.5 TD engine and I found another plus for you. The turbo on this engine is driven off only one bank of cylinders. This means that the turbine section was sized for flow from 3.25 liters. Also, the system is spec'd to produce 2 psi of boost at idle. Max boost is spec'd at 8 psi, but that's controlable by the waste gate.
Based on this, I think my first thoughts on the turbine section sizing may have been wrong. You may have stumbled on to something really good here.
Based on this, I think my first thoughts on the turbine section sizing may have been wrong. You may have stumbled on to something really good here.
to turbos.........
11-14-2003, 11:15 AM
#25
since it is only running on 3.25 liters on the diesel and since VR6 guys are getting some awesome power from them I'd say you found yourself a good turbo. Like other people said, though, you'll need to find a place that sells the flanges or have some custom made.
11-14-2003, 12:31 PM
#26
Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 42
The GM 6.5 TD will make 15 psi of boost if the wastegate sticks closed. I've seen it happen. If a turbo is sized correctly, boost pressure will be controllable by the wastegate.
Since you're planning on spending kilobucks on hardware, it might be wise to invest $25 or so on a book like "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. You can find it on Amazon.
Since you're planning on spending kilobucks on hardware, it might be wise to invest $25 or so on a book like "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. You can find it on Amazon.
11-14-2003, 06:11 PM
#27
Originally Posted by pblaze
The GM 6.5 TD will make 15 psi of boost if the wastegate sticks closed. I've seen it happen. If a turbo is sized correctly, boost pressure will be controllable by the wastegate.
Since you're planning on spending kilobucks on hardware, it might be wise to invest $25 or so on a book like "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. You can find it on Amazon.
Since you're planning on spending kilobucks on hardware, it might be wise to invest $25 or so on a book like "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. You can find it on Amazon.
11-14-2003, 07:07 PM
#28
I e-mailed that company in Houston and this is what they said.
"The company that makes that turbo don't indicate the A/R like Garrett does. That turbo flows like a T3/4 hybrid. Stage -3- exhaust and a somewhere between a Vtrim and Htrim compressor. Hope this helps."
"The company that makes that turbo don't indicate the A/R like Garrett does. That turbo flows like a T3/4 hybrid. Stage -3- exhaust and a somewhere between a Vtrim and Htrim compressor. Hope this helps."
11-15-2003, 10:33 AM
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 344
you can use a fluidyne universal radiator, there should be one that will work. In the space you save by not having the turbo pipes in front of the tranny you can have a thick radiator with a huge fan pulling in air. If you do this, there will def. be enough room for the turbo. Ill try to come up with a cheesy *** diagram.
In order to do my manifold idea you would need to:
1) remove the ac compressor and replace the belt with a shorter one.
2) remove the AC condensor, it is in front of the radiator. After the condensor is out, vou can move the radiator forward about at least 2" maybe three.
3) you will have to remove your fan on the passenger side. This is why I said you may need a different radiator.
*another option is to removeyour AC condensor and put you radiator off to the drivers side, under the front top hood beam a little. This will give you loads of room. Below is a pic of our car with the radiator removed, even if you left the factory radiator and moved it forward under the front top hood beam you can see how much room there would be!
METHOD 1
METHOD 2
Now that we have enough room:
TURBO MOUNTING:
I don’t feel like typing anymore.
PICS:
pretty self explanatory. Sorry for the ****ty drawings, these are not to scale obviously, I just did a quick 5 minute sketch in ACAD3d.
-new
In order to do my manifold idea you would need to:
1) remove the ac compressor and replace the belt with a shorter one.
2) remove the AC condensor, it is in front of the radiator. After the condensor is out, vou can move the radiator forward about at least 2" maybe three.
3) you will have to remove your fan on the passenger side. This is why I said you may need a different radiator.
*another option is to removeyour AC condensor and put you radiator off to the drivers side, under the front top hood beam a little. This will give you loads of room. Below is a pic of our car with the radiator removed, even if you left the factory radiator and moved it forward under the front top hood beam you can see how much room there would be!
METHOD 1
METHOD 2
Now that we have enough room:
TURBO MOUNTING:
I don’t feel like typing anymore.
PICS:
pretty self explanatory. Sorry for the ****ty drawings, these are not to scale obviously, I just did a quick 5 minute sketch in ACAD3d.
-new
11-16-2003, 07:41 PM
#34
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,371
there are 2 A/R's and they are both important. you splitt the turbo in half one for the hot/exhaust or turbine side. one for the cold or compressor side. the bigger the number the bigger the turbo. ideal for maxima would be someware between .63 and .84 tirbine and it seams .60 compressor. take a look at this turbo http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33742
see the .60 compressor is fine but the 1.15 turbine is way to big this is more of a disiel size turbo and would = large amounts of lag on a maxima
see the .60 compressor is fine but the 1.15 turbine is way to big this is more of a disiel size turbo and would = large amounts of lag on a maxima
11-17-2003, 09:04 AM
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 344
thats why you need a new radiator. If you put a massive fan on just one half of the stock radiator it may be ok. Not one of those slim fans that hal uses, but a really deep, high CFM one. Notice that there will be tons of room in between the tranny and the radiator with the turbo mounted elsewhere.
-new
-new
11-17-2003, 09:38 AM
#39
Originally Posted by on_alert
thats why you need a new radiator. If you put a massive fan on just one half of the stock radiator it may be ok. Not one of those slim fans that hal uses, but a really deep, high CFM one. Notice that there will be tons of room in between the tranny and the radiator with the turbo mounted elsewhere.
-new
-new
11-17-2003, 09:58 AM
#40
Okay laugh if you want, I have things to do and I spent 30 second on this but this is what I am talking about when I do a manifold. Is this impossiable, asking people who have turbo setup.
