crewchief264

I am wondering how many people on here with boosted maxs have blown their motor up with the supercharger? I am currently running the 9 psi pulley and never hit redline, because of fear of blowing the thing up. My winter project is a front mount and then thats it, I plan on quitting adding power to the motor unless, I rebuild it. Anyways I am just wondering how many of you have blown your motor with boost and what the circumstances are?

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

9PSI, youll never blow that motor up. Take it to redline. The only way to blow it up if its your Fuel pump goes out and your boosting. I try blowing my up at 10.8 PSI w/turbo and it would not blow and I was taking to redline all I saw was the EGT s hit 800' degrees celsius.

CiViC KiLLeR

Do not worry about blowing your motor with that supercharger at 9 psi. just like jay25 said keep a close eye on the fuel pump and you will be good. One last thing take it to redline. Know more worrys just have fun!!!!!!!!!

Ammi

iTrader: (26)

Pull out the fuel pump and check it visually?

Shadow

iTrader: (15)

Even if your fuel pump isn't working, you probably won't blow it up as long as the FMU is working.

I was running 9 psi on my SC setup and the power wire for my Vortech fuel pump "fell off" due to a lazy shop. I didn't know this since my fuel pressure gauge wasn't hooked up at the time. It ran this way for probably 3-4 weeks, I even took it to the track and ran it twice. Only thing that happened was that my plugs were white from running lean and my car was way down on power. But the car never detonated, and I did a compression test afterward fearing the worst and all 6 cylinders were totally fine.

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

you were not close to boosting 9PSI, have you been a 5 speed redlining shifts I am sure you would have swapped out your motor.

Shadow

iTrader: (15)

Well, I was revving high enough to hit fuel cut on several occasions so that was past redline. Tach read 6800 when that happened, but we all know it's slightly off so closer to 6600. Didn't do that every shift, but I wasn't driving like a granny that month either. 3.33 pulley.

It's really no different than guys who run dry nitrous setups on the factory fuel pump. With the fuel pressure raised, it can be done, but it's not recommended or safe. My engine could have blown up during this time, but it didn't. Doesn't mean it was safe, but it happened.

Mishap

Yeah, uh I accidentally shifted into neutral at the 1000 ft mark on his car at the Nopi Drag War at Silver dollar last year. Car was bounced off the rev limiter pretty hard and I thought the motor let go when I heard the BOV go off at the top of the quarter mile. I was very distracted that run for some reason. Nothing like a quarter mile time of 15.7 at 83mph w/ a r/t of 1.4 seconds and still beating a Mustang GT.

iansw

iTrader: (7)

Actually, assuming he had the Aux Pump installed (which I am assuming) - he would be fine.

The Aux pump by itself can run a car at full boost.

I know this because right now the fuel pump in my trunk is completely busted and I've been driving on the Aux Pump for 3 weeks - FP gauge actually shows a little more PSI than without the Aux pump running and running the stock in-tank.

So werey ou running the Aux pump Shadow?

Otherwise, I don't see how your car would have ran - since pulling the power wire off the pump is enssentially the same as running with the fuel pump fuse pulled.

IanS

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

He did have the aux pump but one wire was not connected

crewchief264

the aux pump will kick on when you make boost, when I first installed the sc kit i used the aux pump and a factory pump, the factory pump however could not handle the extra quantity that it had to supply. I smoked two factory pumps in one day. all I noticed was that at idle and when accelerating normaly the fuel psi would actually drop down to below 20psi and then you could feather the throttle to get psi back up to 30 psi barely, but when you'd go 3/4 throttle the aux pump would kick in and you'd see 50psi or so. however I swapped in a holley pump and don't use the crappy stock or aux pump. Any ways I 'm planning on installing an intercooler anyways before I hit redline wioth 9 psi regularly, better safe than sorry in my eyes, 143,000 miles, and I don't feel like rebuilding it yet. although if any one knows where I can pick up rotating vq30de at let me know, I really wanna get pistons, rods made up for it, and I think it would be much easier if I had spare motor, to do it. I'm figureing somwhere from 3000-5000 to do a complete rebuild with custom pistons, and rods.

stephenlc

iTrader: (1)

Quicksilver has spent like 2500 on pistons and rods I think, tack on a motor and you got about 3000 dollars right there.

crewchief264

you wouldn't happen to have all the details of that build up would you. ie piston and rod manufacturer and the diminsions ie comp. ratio and whether or not the crank was ground etc....

190hpKiLLA

iTrader: (11)

Can u expain this please.

Shadow

iTrader: (15)

Well on my car, the power wire from the relay to the battery for the aux pump became disconnected. My car was running pretty badly, down on power and such, and I couldn't find the problem. Until one day I realized I couldn't hear the annoying whine of the pump. Mine was wired to be on all the time, so as you know, at idle there is always that whine. But it wasn't there, so I thought my pump went bad. Next day I started looking and realized the power wire for the pump had come out of it's connector to the battery. Reconnect it, and the pump kicked back in.

If the car won't run without the aux pump, then what was the point of the Hobbs switch Stillen supplied to turn the pump on and off under boost?

iansw

iTrader: (7)

OH! - I misunderstood - I thought you said your in-tank pump (like a Walbro or something) went bad.

I was assuming you still had the Aux pump working.

IanS

desertmaxima

iTrader: (5)

Naw not that much for the motor and pistons and rods. On_alert said he paid about 1800 for the pistons and rods. Then you can get a VQ for about 500 or even less. But if yer gonna do it do it right. I plan on putting 555 injectors with my built motor along with getting the crank journals done up nice and reinforced. Maybe cryo some stuff here and there. Just kinda hard to think bout the stuff while im out here.

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

stock pump cannot build up that much pressure for 9psi even with the FMU. when my inline pump wasnt wired correctly, I was running 20:1 AFR. I have seen one .org member blew his engine because of this.


Even it is now wired correctly and I have all the fuel pressure that I need.....I am still running 14:1 AFR and I'm still trying to figure what went wrong.

my suggestion is to watch EGT closely....never go above 800C or 1470F.

Shadow

iTrader: (15)

Yeah, I probably was at 20:1 or near there without the inline pump. Luckily nothing blew up.

I hopefully didn't give anyone the wrong impression that it was ok to not run the inline pump or anything of that nature. I was just trying to allay the fears of the original poster who thought his motor would let go at 9 psi on the SC. Once again, don't let what happened to me happen to you. I got lucky, maybe you'll get lucky too, or it could go boom.

JeffesonM

iTrader: (5)

Has everyone that has blown their motors done so because of lack of fuel, vs. something breaking?

Redmax

iTrader: (20)

Yes it seems that way , every one that i have talked to, the parts broke because of detonation, not because of breaking a rod or something like that.

Desertmax:
I have harder bearings now and my y crank shaft was nitroded. My det Pistons were also fly cut and Coated. So we will see if i can hold this 15psi next week.

crewchief264

Did you lower your compression? and what did this whole set up cost? and could you pm me the detailed info of your set up thatnx?

190hpKiLLA

iTrader: (11)

Whats is this AUX pump ur talking about? Where would it be?

I have Walboro pump in the tank and the blue FMU under the hood?

Can someone teach what I have. LOL

mtcookson

iTrader: (2)

i probably about blew up today... i hooked the vacuum up to my turbonetics deltagate and i went driving and experience... lets just say lots more power and turbo noise. take a look at the boost gauge and i f-ing hit 15 psi. at most i should push 10 due to no aftercooler and my car still isn't really tuned. is 235 knock on the s-afc 2 bad? i didn't hear any knocking noises but i'm going to test my compression tomorrow to make sure i didn't do any damage. damn that was scary as hell.

Shadow

iTrader: (15)

If you have a Walbro, then you don't have the Auxillery pump. That is included with the Stillen SC kit and is an inline high flow fuel pump. It normally mounts right below the blue Vortech FMU. Whomever installed your Walbro probably removed the inline pump, or since you had a Walbro, the Aux pump was not installed when you had the SC installed.

GoldenGlory

i have redlined many of times in 2nd and 3gear @ 11psi on my supercharger and im still running fine!

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

go head keep on 15PSI is alot, be a bit more careful!

Nismo3112

iTrader: (12)

Idea: run a wire to the pump and hook it up somehow and install a LED/blinker somewhere on the dashboard where it is easily visible, and if the fuel pump ever fails the LED will immediately turn on warning you when it happens...Kind of the same theory as a check engine light (check fuel pump light) lol.. So if your pump does fail u will know.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

I don't see how that "somehow" would work, but you *SHOULD* be able to rig up a NOS fuel pressure saftey switch anywhere in the fuel supply line to trigger a warning light if fuel pressure drops below a certain level.

Something like this:
http://www.lonestarperformance.com/s...uct_Code=15685

I'd have it set so the light was on anytime the FP was below 34psi.

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

You could have it wired in series with a Hobbs switch so that it only came on when boosting. Then you could adjust to a higher fuel pressure without having a warning light when NA.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Exactly...for <$30 it would warn you even if you have a fuel pressure gauge.

Someone should design a circuit/switch that would be boost referenced and programmable by the user.