i drove my 96 I30 home finally after a 2 freaking month install. now im broke and i need to install my safc2, 300zxtt injectors and fuel pressure and boost gauge myself. installing the afc and injectors should be a sinch. but what would be a safe setup to run the car until i can get it to a dyno?

 

Wouldn't it be best to just leave the AFC2 at it's baseline settings until the dyno? I'm assuming you have an FMU and all that to up fuel pressure. Since you already drove it home, it's probably safe. I'd avoid tweaking anything on the AFC since not enough turbo maximas are around to give you a baseline. I think this question was asked a few months back, and no one had a definitive answer. So just install it, and leave everything at 0 which won't affect your car. Just make sure to keep an eye on the boost and FP gauge until dyno day.

 

i got a walbro 255 and a fuel pressure regulator

 

fuel pressure regulator - is that the one regulates idle fuel pressure or the blue disk from vortech that builds fuel pressure based upon intake manifold pressure?

If your EGT reading is high....I would use S-AFC2 to incrase air flow in order to increase fuel injector duty cycle. But if your EGT is low and you want to lean it out a little, as Shadown mentioned, I would tune it on a dyno.



this is what I got confused all the time. when we asked people for their setup, FMU and FPR are sometimes referred to the samething, the boost reference fuel pressure rising unit. Vortech and cartech call it an FMU, fuel management unit. Fuel pressure regulator for our car is attached to the fuel rail.

 

well i thought i would be able to get away with just having the fuel press and boost gauges. the main reason i posted this thread is because i was told that if i put the 300zx injectors in the motor i wont be able to drive the car without tweaking the safc. and i will be damned if i have to pay someone to pop the injectors in. so i want to pop them in and drive to the dyno and get it tuned.

 

I dont really understand how can you get away with fuel pressure/boost gauge.


if you install the 370cc injectors from a 300zxTT, you will need to use an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to lower the base fuel pressure or you will flood the engine and you need a smaller ratio of FMU to boost your fuel pressure.

or get a JWT ECU.

it has nothing to do with S-AFC2 - it is used to fine tuned your air-fuel ratio in order to get more power.

 

you might wanna pay someone to do this for you...this is one of those things that "if you f*ck up, YOU F*CK UP" good luck plus there is no way you will be able to"tweak" your AFC properly on the street without dyno time...why not just run stock injectors and FMU till you have money, no rushing with FI

 

you will only run rich by leaving the s-afc at 0. you can turn it down a little bit but don't boost much just to be safe from causing detonation.

 

so this is what im going to do:
1)buy and install the auto meter egt gauge kit
2)install the afc2 myself
3)have pann auto install the injectors tune the afc2 and adjust the weapon r fuel pressure reg.

 

Turbo I30! He11 yhea

 

there is no way where i could F*ck up a simple 2M job like that. all i need to do is strip the wires, solder, and shrink wrap them. done deal time to drink beers....
im gonna have a harder time installing the gauges i think. by the way can someone walk me through my boost, egt, and fuel press gauge install?

 

if you tap into the wrong wire.....you might messed up something. let the gauges go in first and get an idea of baseline reading on your car. then install the S-AFC for fine tuning. You will need your baseline reading to help you diagnostic any problem you might encounter in the future.



gauges are easier, except for EGT. IMO autometer instruction should be easy to follow.
mechanical boost - tap the tee into the vacuum hose right above the throttle body....route everything into the car thru the driver side fender. power the gauge light by tapping the wire to any ignition source and ground it.

EGT - you need to install the probe on exhaust manifold or the ypipe. route everything into the car. Then power and ground the gauge.

electric fuel pressure gauge - use a tee tap the sender into the fuel feed line before the fuel rail. route everything into the car thru the groumet on the driver side fender and the wiring is the same as previous 2 gauges.

 

Who built your turbo kit.. not to offend you, but you don't seem to know exactly what you are talking about.

And saying that throwing in some injectors and whatnot is a sinch, without knowing what an fmu is or if you have, kind of worries me. And then asking for help putting a boost gauge, or fuel pressure gauge??

And why can't you run just fuel pressure and boost gauges? I understand that you will see if you are leaning out with an egt gauge (but if tuning was done well you shouldn't have to worry about it).

 

hyper sport racing in san diego did my kit. and honestly i thought i knew a pretty good amount being that i started with bullsh*t bolt ons in 2000 but compared to you guys obviously not. the regular turbo kits I've studied had a engine management systems like e manage, or some other sort of piggy back computer. i never hear about the vortech fmu until a year ago (and that’s because i never wanted a supercharger) when i saw it offered in the over priced pfi kit. as i researched through out that year i found that mostly all the maxima kits used it. but i went with the afc2 because i was told it was way more versatile than the fmu. the other thing that throws me off was that when ever i think of a fuel management unit i think of a computer not a part that goes in the engine bay.

i was just going to run the two gauges for now but maxi overdose and Gerald at HSR made me feel stupid for not going the extra mile and getting the egt.

i say injectors are a cinch, because i can read a Hanes manual.
and if i had instructions for my two gauges i wouldn’t have asked.
notice i didn’t ask how to install the afc2 thats because i can read a wiring schematic.

 

i had figured if you were getting into this you would know a boost gauge has 1 silicone hose that gets tapped to a vacuum line and that a fuel pressure gauge gets tapped into a fuel return line (off the filter) and then has a sending wire harness.

so you have no idea what your fuel pressure is at full boost, what psi you are running or if you are running really lean or overly rich?

what are the specs of your turbo setup (turbo, wastegate, bov etc), any pictures?

 

So wait let me get this straight, You are running only an SAFC2 with no aftermarket FPR or FMU or engine management or JWT ecu? I really hope you aint boosting on those stock injectors past say 4psi. Otherwise you gonna be putting those 370s into a newer engine.

Dixit

 

I'm confused now too because earlier, he mentions he needs to install the SAFC2 and that he has a walbro and fuel pressure regulator. But then he posts that he decided not to get a mechanical FMU and got the SAFC2 instead.

pawnstar, what is on your car now? Do you have a Vortech FMU, or any sort of FMU?

 

no, i have an adjustable fpr.

i have a custom built big shaft t3/t4 turbo
delta waste gate 6psi spring
hks ssqv bov
weapon r fpr
blitz sbc id II
blitz power meter
safc2
walbro 255
300zxtt injectors
boost/fuel press guages
hks turbo timer
gtr34 skyline core with custom end tanks
ceramic coated reversed Y pipe exhaust manifold
mobiltek VB upgrade
b & m tranny cooler
aluminum battery relocation kit
custom dual 3" magnaflow turbo back dual square dtm exhaust with a 3" high flow cat

im gonna be paying this kit off for 3 years. and im no way near done. im gonna need to do something with the tranny(5 speed conv.) and cooling system.

 

okay for everyone that is confused my fuel management system consists of a weapon R fuel pressure regulator, walbro 255 lph fuel pump, safc2 (not installed yet), 370cc 300zxtt injectors(not installed yet either). when i drove home it was only a 5 min drive and i crawled home. i didnt want to break any thing and that was the last time i drove it. next time i drive the ride its gonna be to the dyno.

 

But a weapon r fuel pressure regular is not a fuel management unit. FPRs are to lower/adjust your static fuel pressure. Not add fuel when boosting. These are not boost relative fuel pressure units.

Im about 95% sure about that unless this weapon R is like a SMFU which dont look like it.

Dixit

 

gerald was telling me the same thing and he said i can get by for now with it and i did, i got it home. now the safc2 will trick my ecu to increase the fuel(thats what piggyback computers do) and im set whats the problem?

 

NO!
You will not be set by ANY means by using the SAFC2. All you will do is basically lengthen the puslewidth of the injector, that is NOT enough to add enough fuel like a FMU will do. The only way thats going to happen is either larger injectors coupled with an engine management unit like eManage or the JWT ecu.

Otherwise you will NEEEEED a Fuel Management Unit like the Vortech FMU or the Cartech FMU. No other way to cut it.

Technically you can be fine as long as you DONT BOOST at all. If you start boosting that means you need fuel to go along with the increased amount of air, and the safc2 is not going to cut it, so what does that leave you? Leaning out and detonating for sure.

Dixit

 

aight cool i got it. i will get a fuel management unit. why was i thinking that the safc2 was a fmu?(damn!, im sorry i thought lengthening the pulse = more fuel, go ahead have a nice laught at my @ss) the vortech joint is the most cost effective way to go right ? that means i dont need the fpr any more because when i need to lower the pressure for the 370's i would just tweak the fmu.

 

Your still a bit off on your understanding. The FMU is only boost relative. That means all it is going to do is ADD fuel when it sees boost. You put a disc in there like a 6:1 or 8:1 etc and basically got each pound of boost it sees it adds 6psi of fuel pressure (on a 6:1). Thats all it does. Now the cartech unit does basically the same with a few extra convieniences like adjust ratio from 1:1 to about 12:1 with the turn of a bleed valve instead of like the Vortech FMU where you need to open the unit and change the discs.

The Vortech Super FMU is basically both a FMU and an FPR combined into one nice and awesome unit.

If you get the vortech fmu, you still need the WeaponR FPR cause if you plan on putting in 370cc injectors and not using a Greddy eManage or a JWT ecu, then you will NEED the FPR to lower the static fuel pressure so you dont flood the engine on the start.

Hope this helps. And be careful, It seems like you just got into this boosting area, many people blow the engines with mistakes they did right in the beginning. Some dont see it immediately, others do. Make sure if you are getting your information, the person you are talking to is well known or well knowledgable in the boost field. There are alot of people who talk BS but dont know the first thing about boosting correctly and safely.

Im still suprised the shop aint say anything, unless they dont know nothing either.

Dixit

 

ahhhh i see said the blind man