Garrett Turbo Types
01-07-2004, 04:43 PM
#1
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 470
Garrett Turbo Types
Ok... Been doing some research.. Currently my T3/T4 is way to small... Compressor A/R=60 Turbine=43. I'm spooling the dam thing way to fast.. I'm in the process of upgrading to a larger more efficient turbo..
I've been searching Garret Turbos.. And I have 4 different types in mine.. Maybe you guys can give me a second opinion...
1. GT26RS Ball Bearing - (Compressor) Wh Dia.=60, Trim=62 A/R=0.60
( Turbine) Wh Dia.=53.8, Trim=76, A/R=0.86 or 0.64
( Power) 250hp-320hp
2. GT30R/4SR82 Ball Bearing - (Compressor) Wh Dia=76.2, Trim=56, A/R=0.60
(Turbine) Wh Dia.=60, Trim=84, A/R=0.82
(Power) 350hp-500hp
3. GT32 Ball Bearing - (Compressor) Wh Dia=71, trim=52, A/R=0.50
(Turbine) Wh Dia.=64, trim=73, A/R=0.78
(Power) 200hp-420hp
4. GT35 Ball Bearing - (Compressor) Wh Dia=71 or 76, trim=52, A/R=0.50
(Turbine) Wh Dia.=68, trim=84, A/R=1.05
(Power) 260hp-510hp
From the four listed, I kinda perfer option 2. One thing though, is the GT30R/4Sr82 similar to a T4/T4 or TO4E...
Thanks.
I've been searching Garret Turbos.. And I have 4 different types in mine.. Maybe you guys can give me a second opinion...
1. GT26RS Ball Bearing - (Compressor) Wh Dia.=60, Trim=62 A/R=0.60
( Turbine) Wh Dia.=53.8, Trim=76, A/R=0.86 or 0.64
( Power) 250hp-320hp
2. GT30R/4SR82 Ball Bearing - (Compressor) Wh Dia=76.2, Trim=56, A/R=0.60
(Turbine) Wh Dia.=60, Trim=84, A/R=0.82
(Power) 350hp-500hp
3. GT32 Ball Bearing - (Compressor) Wh Dia=71, trim=52, A/R=0.50
(Turbine) Wh Dia.=64, trim=73, A/R=0.78
(Power) 200hp-420hp
4. GT35 Ball Bearing - (Compressor) Wh Dia=71 or 76, trim=52, A/R=0.50
(Turbine) Wh Dia.=68, trim=84, A/R=1.05
(Power) 260hp-510hp
From the four listed, I kinda perfer option 2. One thing though, is the GT30R/4Sr82 similar to a T4/T4 or TO4E...
Thanks.
01-07-2004, 05:35 PM
#3
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 470
Yeah.. I did not know any better when I got it... But what can you do... You live and you learn... This was a learning process for me so, I'm trying to correct it.. But I can tell you the thing spools very fast.. Acceleration is good from low to mid... As long as the rpms are low...
Originally Posted by subs1000w
holy crap .43 A/R turbine
why did you get such a small turbo
why did you get such a small turbo
01-07-2004, 05:52 PM
#5
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 470
Its seems option 3 has more potential for accelaration than top end. But Option 2 seems good.. Which is my first choice... Comon guys, need more opnions...
Originally Posted by CiViC KiLLeR
I like option 2 that is the one I whould go with. But if you do not go with number 2,Number 3 is ok too.
01-07-2004, 06:46 PM
#9
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 413
Option 2 uses a T3 compressor housing so you're looking at something very similar to a T3/T04S (60-1) setup. It means it will bolt up to your current flange w/ only minor modification to the compressor side piping and no need to reduce the 4" exhaust outlet the GT35 has. It has the 4" air inlet on the compressor side.
The GT32 is the equivalent to a T3/T04E sized turbo. Slightly on the small end but w/ the BB it'll be crazy fast spooling.
The GT35 is similar in size to the T4/T04E combo and may be a bit big on the compressor side w/o that large of a compressor. The GT35R has a T3 flange and better power characteristics than the GT35 but the VQ30 is at the bottom end of its displacement range.
I don't know the specs of the GT26 but it seems to be the smallest of the group and not appreciably better than your current turbo
Any of the bottom 3 choices will work w/ the 2nd one being the largest to work w/ your current flange setup. IIRC, you had a V-band on your downpipe which means some modification there but nothing major.
Just figure these newer Garrett's offer more hp per turbo size b/c of better flow characteristics and faster spool w/ the complete BB center. Given that, you can err slightly larger on the turbo than if you were working w/ non-BB turbos. Personally, I'd go w/ option 2 since it requires the least modification while giving you the biggest compressor side. Hope this helps.
Check the specs here: Garrett GT Catalog
The GT32 is the equivalent to a T3/T04E sized turbo. Slightly on the small end but w/ the BB it'll be crazy fast spooling.
The GT35 is similar in size to the T4/T04E combo and may be a bit big on the compressor side w/o that large of a compressor. The GT35R has a T3 flange and better power characteristics than the GT35 but the VQ30 is at the bottom end of its displacement range.
I don't know the specs of the GT26 but it seems to be the smallest of the group and not appreciably better than your current turbo
Any of the bottom 3 choices will work w/ the 2nd one being the largest to work w/ your current flange setup. IIRC, you had a V-band on your downpipe which means some modification there but nothing major.
Just figure these newer Garrett's offer more hp per turbo size b/c of better flow characteristics and faster spool w/ the complete BB center. Given that, you can err slightly larger on the turbo than if you were working w/ non-BB turbos. Personally, I'd go w/ option 2 since it requires the least modification while giving you the biggest compressor side. Hope this helps.
Check the specs here: Garrett GT Catalog
01-07-2004, 08:06 PM
#10
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 470
Thanks for the info mishap. Option 2 has far less modification and easy to bolt up to.. Again thanks alot..
Originally Posted by Mishap
Option 2 uses a T3 compressor housing so you're looking at something very similar to a T3/T04S (60-1) setup. It means it will bolt up to your current flange w/ only minor modification to the compressor side piping and no need to reduce the 4" exhaust outlet the GT35 has. It has the 4" air inlet on the compressor side.
The GT32 is the equivalent to a T3/T04E sized turbo. Slightly on the small end but w/ the BB it'll be crazy fast spooling.
The GT35 is similar in size to the T4/T04E combo and may be a bit big on the compressor side w/o that large of a compressor. The GT35R has a T3 flange and better power characteristics than the GT35 but the VQ30 is at the bottom end of its displacement range.
I don't know the specs of the GT26 but it seems to be the smallest of the group and not appreciably better than your current turbo
Any of the bottom 3 choices will work w/ the 2nd one being the largest to work w/ your current flange setup. IIRC, you had a V-band on your downpipe which means some modification there but nothing major.
Just figure these newer Garrett's offer more hp per turbo size b/c of better flow characteristics and faster spool w/ the complete BB center. Given that, you can err slightly larger on the turbo than if you were working w/ non-BB turbos. Personally, I'd go w/ option 2 since it requires the least modification while giving you the biggest compressor side. Hope this helps.
Check the specs here: Garrett GT Catalog
The GT32 is the equivalent to a T3/T04E sized turbo. Slightly on the small end but w/ the BB it'll be crazy fast spooling.
The GT35 is similar in size to the T4/T04E combo and may be a bit big on the compressor side w/o that large of a compressor. The GT35R has a T3 flange and better power characteristics than the GT35 but the VQ30 is at the bottom end of its displacement range.
I don't know the specs of the GT26 but it seems to be the smallest of the group and not appreciably better than your current turbo
Any of the bottom 3 choices will work w/ the 2nd one being the largest to work w/ your current flange setup. IIRC, you had a V-band on your downpipe which means some modification there but nothing major.
Just figure these newer Garrett's offer more hp per turbo size b/c of better flow characteristics and faster spool w/ the complete BB center. Given that, you can err slightly larger on the turbo than if you were working w/ non-BB turbos. Personally, I'd go w/ option 2 since it requires the least modification while giving you the biggest compressor side. Hope this helps.
Check the specs here: Garrett GT Catalog
01-09-2004, 07:44 AM
#13
Can you do that?
At least on the BB ones like the GT30R/GT35R the center section is water cooled and oil lubricated, so I didn't think you could just run oil.
At least on the BB ones like the GT30R/GT35R the center section is water cooled and oil lubricated, so I didn't think you could just run oil.
Originally Posted by Morfeus17
Not making it water cooled.. I will run it Oiled cooled like my current setup... it should be an easy swap from my T3/T4...
01-09-2004, 07:54 AM
#14
http://www.agpturbo.com/turbochargers.htm
This is why I think it needs to be water cooled:
http://www.atpturbo.com/root/technicinfo/bbjb.htm
All of the GT series turbos utilize a water cooled bearing housing. A constant supply of water must be plumbed to the 14mmx1.5 threaded holes front and rear. The oil inlet on the top of the bearing housing is a 7/16-24 inverted flare. This must be supplied with a constant flow of CLEAN oil at pressures no greater than 60psi. And the oil drain is a two bolt flange with 8mm1.25 threaded holes. This flange is the same spacing and configuration as the standard Mitsubishi oil drain found on TD05 and TD06 bearing housings.
http://www.atpturbo.com/root/technicinfo/bbjb.htm
Reduced Oil Flow - The ball bearing design reduces the required amount of oil to provide adequate lubrication. This lower oil volume reduces the chance for seal leakage. Also, the ball bearing is more tolerant of marginal lube conditions, and diminishes the possibility of turbocharger failure on engine shut down.
01-09-2004, 08:08 AM
#17
Looks like there are different types...some with water cooled center sections or even turbine sections in varying models.
There seems to be air or water cooled bearing center sections, so they probably offer it in both.
There seems to be air or water cooled bearing center sections, so they probably offer it in both.
01-09-2004, 08:32 AM
#18
Not really, if you're careful about letting the car cool down and such, oil cooling is more than sufficient. Water cooling has it's own problems too, more lines to run and they can leak. Also, sometimes if the turbo is running hot enough, it will burn coolant. Had that happen once, just driving on the highway for a while on a hot day and the temp guage pegged on my GF's Integra. My GF's integra's turbo setup is both oil and water cooled but I'm about to pull the water lines and just plug the turbo fittings for those.
Originally Posted by spanishrice
Keeping oil and water cooled, the turbo should last longer.
01-09-2004, 01:13 PM
#20
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 470
Well I hope it can do both, becuase I heard of many horror stories about water cooling turbos... To much issues.. Hopefully, they may have an oiled cool option.. If not I'll find a supplimental turbo that can...
01-09-2004, 03:28 PM
#21
70/30. Running the coolant lines to the turbo don't really affect that. I've always run 70/30.
It's weird, it only happened that one time, and I'll admit, the conditions were pretty extreme. But I hate having to constantly check the lines to make sure they're not leaking and so on, just a hassle. Got a turbo timer on the car, so I might as well just let it run. And I have heard a lot of horror stories about water cooling the turbo. For me, there just isn't enough justification to keep running the water lines.
And to Morfeus, I don't know of any turbos that actually require water cooling. Many turbos have water line fittings, but most people just block those off. My Garrett turbo only had oil fittings, my GF's Turbonetics had both oil and water line fittings. From what knowledgable turbo guys tell me, oil cooling is sufficient provided you let the turbo cool down and so on. I could be wrong though, I'm not an expert on this.
It's weird, it only happened that one time, and I'll admit, the conditions were pretty extreme. But I hate having to constantly check the lines to make sure they're not leaking and so on, just a hassle. Got a turbo timer on the car, so I might as well just let it run. And I have heard a lot of horror stories about water cooling the turbo. For me, there just isn't enough justification to keep running the water lines.
And to Morfeus, I don't know of any turbos that actually require water cooling. Many turbos have water line fittings, but most people just block those off. My Garrett turbo only had oil fittings, my GF's Turbonetics had both oil and water line fittings. From what knowledgable turbo guys tell me, oil cooling is sufficient provided you let the turbo cool down and so on. I could be wrong though, I'm not an expert on this.
Originally Posted by spanishrice
What do you run in your radiator? What percentage water/coolant?
01-09-2004, 03:53 PM
#22
According to this:
http://www.atpturbo.com/root/technicinfo/bbjb.htm
...I'd be concerned, because IF the center section is designed for water cooling it doesn't need as much oil flow, I'd worry that the reduced volume of oil DESIGNED for only lubrication and NOT cooling wouldn't be enough.
http://www.atpturbo.com/root/technicinfo/bbjb.htm
Reduced Oil Flow - The ball bearing design reduces the required amount of oil to provide adequate lubrication. This lower oil volume reduces the chance for seal leakage. Also, the ball bearing is more tolerant of marginal lube conditions, and diminishes the possibility of turbocharger failure on engine shut down.
Originally Posted by Shadow
70/30. Running the coolant lines to the turbo don't really affect that. I've always run 70/30.
It's weird, it only happened that one time, and I'll admit, the conditions were pretty extreme. But I hate having to constantly check the lines to make sure they're not leaking and so on, just a hassle. Got a turbo timer on the car, so I might as well just let it run. And I have heard a lot of horror stories about water cooling the turbo. For me, there just isn't enough justification to keep running the water lines.
And to Morfeus, I don't know of any turbos that actually require water cooling. Many turbos have water line fittings, but most people just block those off. My Garrett turbo only had oil fittings, my GF's Turbonetics had both oil and water line fittings. From what knowledgable turbo guys tell me, oil cooling is sufficient provided you let the turbo cool down and so on. I could be wrong though, I'm not an expert on this.
It's weird, it only happened that one time, and I'll admit, the conditions were pretty extreme. But I hate having to constantly check the lines to make sure they're not leaking and so on, just a hassle. Got a turbo timer on the car, so I might as well just let it run. And I have heard a lot of horror stories about water cooling the turbo. For me, there just isn't enough justification to keep running the water lines.
And to Morfeus, I don't know of any turbos that actually require water cooling. Many turbos have water line fittings, but most people just block those off. My Garrett turbo only had oil fittings, my GF's Turbonetics had both oil and water line fittings. From what knowledgable turbo guys tell me, oil cooling is sufficient provided you let the turbo cool down and so on. I could be wrong though, I'm not an expert on this.
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