? on best clutch if planning on SC'ing later
? on best clutch if planning on SC'ing later
I'm sure this has been on here before, but I haven't seen it yet. I am in need of a clutch and I would like to get the ACT clutch on custommaxima.com. I will probably get a light weight flywheel and UDP at that time too. My brother has been using my car and took care of the clutch in the last 6,000 miles...car has 51k total now. My question is which stage is the way to go? Also, does the heavier clutch require a different slave master cylinder due to the added pressure, or can everything else stay stock? I am planning on SC'ing in the future, but I will be N/A for a while. And no, my brother will not be borrowing the car then!
They say it's a heavy clutch, but I loved the way my friend's 2003 Mustang Cobra felt. Is this about the same pressure?
They say it's a heavy clutch, but I loved the way my friend's 2003 Mustang Cobra felt. Is this about the same pressure?
Something to consider, but I notice you mentioned using a UDP. If your going S/C, UDP will hurt you when running a S/C. You'll be slowing down the S/C with a UDP and won't be making as much boost....just a thought...
You could however go with a smaller pulley on the S/C to offset that....but really kind of pointless.
S
You could however go with a smaller pulley on the S/C to offset that....but really kind of pointless.
S
Originally Posted by maximase86
Something to consider, but I notice you mentioned using a UDP. If your going S/C, UDP will hurt you when running a S/C. You'll be slowing down the S/C with a UDP and won't be making as much boost....just a thought...
You could however go with a smaller pulley on the S/C to offset that....but really kind of pointless.
S
You could however go with a smaller pulley on the S/C to offset that....but really kind of pointless.
S
Originally Posted by CiViC KiLLeR
If you are going to run 11psi go with the ACT Stage 2 clutch.That is my 2 cents.
Thanks for the info.
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,129
From: San Fernando Valley CALI
I'm running with the ACT Heavy Duty clutch - Stage 1 - with no problems so far.... Guess we'll see how long it lasts in the long run though...
Also, if you do the S/C... use the clutch you have now, until it burns up, no need replacing it until it's no good.
The UDP stands for Under Drive Pulley... so yes, it's got a smaller diameter than the stock one... You can get a lightened, stock size crank pulley if you want though...
I like my clutch, but it's going to take a few days for you to get used to the clutch chatter...
FYI - I'm running the stock crank pulley, 6.25", and the 3.125 pulley on the blower... My dyno shows 10.1 lbs at the manifold...
Also, if you do the S/C... use the clutch you have now, until it burns up, no need replacing it until it's no good.
The UDP stands for Under Drive Pulley... so yes, it's got a smaller diameter than the stock one... You can get a lightened, stock size crank pulley if you want though...
I like my clutch, but it's going to take a few days for you to get used to the clutch chatter...
FYI - I'm running the stock crank pulley, 6.25", and the 3.125 pulley on the blower... My dyno shows 10.1 lbs at the manifold...
Originally Posted by HNDA ETR
I'm running with the ACT Heavy Duty clutch - Stage 1 - with no problems so far.... Guess we'll see how long it lasts in the long run though...
Also, if you do the S/C... use the clutch you have now, until it burns up, no need replacing it until it's no good.
The UDP stands for Under Drive Pulley... so yes, it's got a smaller diameter than the stock one... You can get a lightened, stock size crank pulley if you want though...
I like my clutch, but it's going to take a few days for you to get used to the clutch chatter...
FYI - I'm running the stock crank pulley, 6.25", and the 3.125 pulley on the blower... My dyno shows 10.1 lbs at the manifold...
Also, if you do the S/C... use the clutch you have now, until it burns up, no need replacing it until it's no good.
The UDP stands for Under Drive Pulley... so yes, it's got a smaller diameter than the stock one... You can get a lightened, stock size crank pulley if you want though...
I like my clutch, but it's going to take a few days for you to get used to the clutch chatter...
FYI - I'm running the stock crank pulley, 6.25", and the 3.125 pulley on the blower... My dyno shows 10.1 lbs at the manifold...
Hmmm, some things to consider. I definetely don't want to go the route of a blown trans. I know if I get a SC, I will be an even worse lead foot than now. I know the stage 2 puts more strain on the trans and the risks are higher, but I didn't know if the stage 1 could handle the boost. I guess in the end it would be better to change a clutch instead of a trans because a rebuilt trans is never the same again.
exedy is one of the top clutch manufacturers. i'm going to use a SPEC clutch on my max however. you can get a 4 puck race disk with a sprung hub for better street driving which is really cool. i also hear a lot of people have noticed a lighter clutch pedal feel with the spec setup. www.nipponpower.com sells those.
oh yeah and btw, if you want even more gripping power for a lower price the 84-86 300zx Turbo clutch should work. i know it will fit on the flywheel for the 3rd gen maxima and since the same clutch is used from 85-99 they should also bolt onto the 4th gens.
84-86 300ZX 3.0L Turbo
Stage 1 - Clutch Kit w/ Organic Street Disc 395 lb-ft SN321 $ 275.95
Stage 2 - Clutch Kit w/ Kevlar Street Disc 450 lb-ft SN322 $ 305.95
Stage 3 - Clutch Kit w/ Sprung Hub Race Disc 515 lb-ft SN323 $ 319.95
85-99 Maxima 3.0L
Stage 1 - Clutch Kit w/ Organic Street Disc 360 lb-ft SN441 $ 295.95
Stage 2 - Clutch Kit w/ Kevlar Street Disc 395 lb-ft SN442 $ 335.95
Stage 3 - Clutch Kit w/ Sprung Hub Race Disc 469 lb-ft SN443 $ 349.95
oh yeah and btw, if you want even more gripping power for a lower price the 84-86 300zx Turbo clutch should work. i know it will fit on the flywheel for the 3rd gen maxima and since the same clutch is used from 85-99 they should also bolt onto the 4th gens.
84-86 300ZX 3.0L Turbo
Stage 1 - Clutch Kit w/ Organic Street Disc 395 lb-ft SN321 $ 275.95
Stage 2 - Clutch Kit w/ Kevlar Street Disc 450 lb-ft SN322 $ 305.95
Stage 3 - Clutch Kit w/ Sprung Hub Race Disc 515 lb-ft SN323 $ 319.95
85-99 Maxima 3.0L
Stage 1 - Clutch Kit w/ Organic Street Disc 360 lb-ft SN441 $ 295.95
Stage 2 - Clutch Kit w/ Kevlar Street Disc 395 lb-ft SN442 $ 335.95
Stage 3 - Clutch Kit w/ Sprung Hub Race Disc 469 lb-ft SN443 $ 349.95
Originally Posted by abradic
Hmmm, some things to consider. I definetely don't want to go the route of a blown trans. I know if I get a SC, I will be an even worse lead foot than now. I know the stage 2 puts more strain on the trans and the risks are higher, but I didn't know if the stage 1 could handle the boost. I guess in the end it would be better to change a clutch instead of a trans because a rebuilt trans is never the same again.
Originally Posted by luckee2bhere
ACT stage 2=blown Max trans
is my guess.
is my guess.
I've had my STAGE 3 clutchmaters clutch for 20k miles now, and its fine.. no tranny problems...
http://www.clutchmasters.com/shop/?p...264&AppID=3198
it transfers quite a lot of power
edit: stephen beat me to it
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
litch
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
123
Jan 4, 2024 07:01 PM
DC_Juggernaut
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
4
Sep 28, 2015 04:07 PM





