Supercharged/Turbocharged The increase in air/fuel pressure above atmospheric pressure in the intake system caused by the action of a supercharger or turbocharger attached to an engine.

I've sprouted another gauge

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Old 02-17-2004, 10:18 AM
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I've sprouted another gauge

Well, not me. My car.

It's the analogAFR gauge supplied by Innovate for use with the LM-1 wideband O2 unit. It's made by Westach. Too bad I couldn't keep the Autometer Phantom motif going. Oh well.

Idling very nicely at stoich.


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Old 02-17-2004, 11:43 AM
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kool is accurate?????
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Old 02-17-2004, 11:59 AM
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Analog huh...I bet that dances alot when driving.
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Old 02-17-2004, 12:14 PM
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I'll be getting a SC soon, do you think this could be used in place of an EGT, or would you still suggest both. I can't really afford both so I've been debating which one to get.

Also I assume the gauge is still functional even when the Data logger isn't plugged in, right?

When you Data log, how do you compare the instantaneous AFR to a specific RPM?

Sorry about all the questions, but I'm curious.
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Old 02-17-2004, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by MAXimumHP
I'll be getting a SC soon, do you think this could be used in place of an EGT, or would you still suggest both. I can't really afford both so I've been debating which one to get.

Also I assume the gauge is still functional even when the Data logger isn't plugged in, right?

When you Data log, how do you compare the instantaneous AFR to a specific RPM?

Sorry about all the questions, but I'm curious.

I have the same thoughts
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Old 02-18-2004, 04:48 AM
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Originally Posted by jdmmax
kool is accurate?????
Yes, very. It uses the Bosch LSU4.2 wideband O2 sensor.

Icey: The needle hardly fluctuates at all when driving or idling. It does just the slightest bit, following the ecu's adjustment of the afr. The only time there is a wild fluctuation is when closing the throttle at an engine speed high enough that the fuel cutoff is activated. Then the needle swings way into the lean range until you give it gas again.

Max: Yes, you could use this instead of an EGT since it measures afr directly rather than indirectly like the EGT does. You have to have the LM-1 plugged in, since the LM-1 is what processes the signal from the O2 sensor and sends it along to the gauge. The LM-1 also controls the O2 sensor heater, so running without the LM-1 will result in a carbonized O2 sensor in very short order.

To log data against rpm, you get an auxiliary cable that has an rpm converter built into it. It plugs into the LM-1. Then you just tap in to an appropriate tach signal (such as the tach wire at the ecu that an SAFC uses). The aux cable has provisions for four other inputs. I'm going to log boost pressure (with a 2 bar MAP sensor from a Grand National), TPS, MAF voltage, and intake air temperature.
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Old 02-18-2004, 07:41 AM
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Wow thanks for the info. That's pretty cool. Seems a little inconvenient though for daily use. Where do you put the LM unit while driving around? Will the unit turn on with the ignition? Seems like you would have to turn it on every time you get in your car. Still, being able to data log that info is awesome, and would allow you to tinker and effectively know the results. I can see it being very useful even if you didn't use it daily. How much did the gauge cost ya?
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Old 02-18-2004, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by MAXimumHP
Wow thanks for the info. That's pretty cool. Seems a little inconvenient though for daily use. Where do you put the LM unit while driving around? Will the unit turn on with the ignition? Seems like you would have to turn it on every time you get in your car. Still, being able to data log that info is awesome, and would allow you to tinker and effectively know the results. I can see it being very useful even if you didn't use it daily. How much did the gauge cost ya?
The LM-1 fits very nicely inside the armrest compartment in the console. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the compartment to run cables to the LM-1. You can have the LM-1 powered by the accessory power (cigarette lighter) line by taking out the 9V battery and leaving the LM-1 power switch in the on position. Then it turns on and off with the ignition. Innovate issues a warning about power surges during starting that could damage the LM-1. They say it is not a problem with newer cars and the LM-1 has circuitry to protect against that, nevertheless they recommend using a relay setup that only delivers power to the LM-1 when the starter is not activated. Innovate also warns against starting the car if the O2 sensor is fully hot, due to possible damage from exhaust condensation hitting the hot sensor, so you have to be careful about not starting the car after already having the ignition on for more than a minute or two.

The LM-1 costs $350, including the sensor. I found a dealer selling units for $330 on ebay, though. The gauge and its cable cost about $70, and the auxiliary cable needed for rpm and other sensor input is another $100.
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Old 02-18-2004, 10:13 AM
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OK that sounds fairly user friendly. It's nice to hear you can leave it on all the time and have it turn on with the car. Even adding a relay is no big deal really if you want the extra security. In fact you could probably wire the relay so the LM is only on when the engine is running. Prices aren't bad either. 100 seems a little on the steep side for the accessory cable, but considering what it can do it's worth it. So your talking around 500 bucks for the package. Guess that's not too bad if you virtually eliminate the need to dyno.
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Old 02-18-2004, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by MAXimumHP
OK that sounds fairly user friendly. It's nice to hear you can leave it on all the time and have it turn on with the car. Even adding a relay is no big deal really if you want the extra security. In fact you could probably wire the relay so the LM is only on when the engine is running. Prices aren't bad either. 100 seems a little on the steep side for the accessory cable, but considering what it can do it's worth it. So your talking around 500 bucks for the package. Guess that's not too bad if you virtually eliminate the need to dyno.
Yep, that's what I was figuring. The only thing you don't get is horsepower measurement, although it's easy enough to calculate from the change in rpm over a time interval knowing your final gear ratio for the gear your in and your test weight.
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Old 02-18-2004, 11:47 PM
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arrrrrrg i may have to bite the bullet and buy one. $180 dollar tuning sessions are expensive and im still detonating.
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Old 02-19-2004, 01:03 PM
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Stephen Max-My sister lives in Austin. I'm coming out at the end of April to go to my cousin's wedding. If I came in early do you think that i could check w/ your setup. I'm really interesed in being able to tune in realtime instead of on a dyno sled.

are you able to adjust fp with the LM-1? What kind of fpr do you have, and do you think it would be compatible with the jwt ecu program?

Steve
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Old 02-19-2004, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by slimer
Stephen Max-My sister lives in Austin. I'm coming out at the end of April to go to my cousin's wedding. If I came in early do you think that i could check w/ your setup. I'm really interesed in being able to tune in realtime instead of on a dyno sled.

are you able to adjust fp with the LM-1? What kind of fpr do you have, and do you think it would be compatible with the jwt ecu program?

Steve
You can't make any adjustments with the LM-1. I use it to make adjustments with an SAFC. I'm running 370 cc/min injectors at 43 psi. I do use an adjustable fpr, though, to bring the fuel pressure down from the 50 psi that the Walbro produces. I'm running the JWT ecu program along with a Z32 maf.

Let me know when you're in Austin.
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Old 02-20-2004, 03:02 PM
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Hopefully everything on mine will be runnin fine by the time i get down there, im even considering driving.

btw, i grew up in rollingwood, next to westlake.

steve
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