Split Second the non-JWT answer to our Maxima prayers
04-06-2004, 10:25 AM
#1
Split Second the non-JWT answer to our Maxima prayers
www.splitsec.com
I think we need to make a collective FOCUS on these guys as THE solution for boosted VQ tuning. I was also looking into UNICHIP, since it's a very similar programmable piggy-back approach plus AU guys have these on VQ30/VQ35s, however you're limited to dealer only software tuning. The Split Second products are 3D laptop programmable with HUNDREDS of data points by RPM, Load, and/or MAP or MAF that works WITH your factory ECU. They can control AFR, timing, different MAFs, clamp out-of-range signals, or even run aux injectors.
I believe the VC2 is the solution to people maxing out A32/A33 MAFs and the PSC1 second/third mode can control ANY MAF we care to use once the maps are built withOUT the STOCK ECU overriding or flipping out.
I believe if we can figure out IF the timing control features of the FTC1 will work, we'll be SOOOoooo much better off, since we can ALL share maps/tuning examples and LEARN from each others cars/dynos/track/daily driving. Even those LUCKY FEW who have the JWT option are DEPENDENT on JWT and their ultra-conservative programs, which most use a S-AFC or eMange in addition to anyways. Using SplitSecond as our engine management solution means everytime someone builds up a map for a certain list of mods, ie 370cc/Z32 MAF/10psi SC, we'll have a database file that ANYONE can grab and upload to any of the SplitSecond devices, whether it be a FTC1, PSC1, or AIC1 all using Split Seconds common R4 software.
I think SplitSeconds' product prices are resonable because:
1)you can add on as necessary,
2)they'll customize if needed,
3)the laptop programmable software is INCLUDED,
4)more features then we'll need,
5)logging,
6)flexability to GROW as needed,
7)*looks* simple being a PIGGY-BACK ECU with the programmablity of stand-alone withOUT all the headaches involved in building maps from scratch, closed-loop control, startup, and safe modes,
8)we can LEARN from each other and move forward each step vs. working from scratch on your own,
9)ANY year Max will be able to use this~!
Let me know what you guys think, ie
or what.
I think we need to make a collective FOCUS on these guys as THE solution for boosted VQ tuning. I was also looking into UNICHIP, since it's a very similar programmable piggy-back approach plus AU guys have these on VQ30/VQ35s, however you're limited to dealer only software tuning. The Split Second products are 3D laptop programmable with HUNDREDS of data points by RPM, Load, and/or MAP or MAF that works WITH your factory ECU. They can control AFR, timing, different MAFs, clamp out-of-range signals, or even run aux injectors.
I believe the VC2 is the solution to people maxing out A32/A33 MAFs and the PSC1 second/third mode can control ANY MAF we care to use once the maps are built withOUT the STOCK ECU overriding or flipping out.
I believe if we can figure out IF the timing control features of the FTC1 will work, we'll be SOOOoooo much better off, since we can ALL share maps/tuning examples and LEARN from each others cars/dynos/track/daily driving. Even those LUCKY FEW who have the JWT option are DEPENDENT on JWT and their ultra-conservative programs, which most use a S-AFC or eMange in addition to anyways. Using SplitSecond as our engine management solution means everytime someone builds up a map for a certain list of mods, ie 370cc/Z32 MAF/10psi SC, we'll have a database file that ANYONE can grab and upload to any of the SplitSecond devices, whether it be a FTC1, PSC1, or AIC1 all using Split Seconds common R4 software.
I think SplitSeconds' product prices are resonable because:
1)you can add on as necessary,
2)they'll customize if needed,
3)the laptop programmable software is INCLUDED,
4)more features then we'll need,
5)logging,
6)flexability to GROW as needed,
7)*looks* simple being a PIGGY-BACK ECU with the programmablity of stand-alone withOUT all the headaches involved in building maps from scratch, closed-loop control, startup, and safe modes,
8)we can LEARN from each other and move forward each step vs. working from scratch on your own,
9)ANY year Max will be able to use this~!
Let me know what you guys think, ie
or what.
04-06-2004, 11:04 AM
#5
I hear that, but if someones considering JWT or even eManage, I'd consider this.
However, J&S is superior to either eManage or FTC1 for timing control, so that's another tough decision.
However, J&S is superior to either eManage or FTC1 for timing control, so that's another tough decision.
04-06-2004, 11:28 AM
#6
hmm... stuff like htis scares me. It is EASY to plug in the JWT ecu. I just don't know about programming all of the requirewd info. And I won't even go into installation.
Good find. I am looking at the site. Look slike I have some info to read while at work.
Thanks for pointing it out alex
Good find. I am looking at the site. Look slike I have some info to read while at work.
Thanks for pointing it out alex
04-06-2004, 11:42 AM
#7
THAT'S THE POINT BAGS~!!!!!!
Once a few PIONEERS do the dirty work, you just download the program and bingo you're done. No sending in your ECU to JWT, waiting GOD only knows how long, and then fine tuning with an AFC on a dyno for peak performance.
JWT *IS* simple/sweet, if you have a 95/96 or don't mind a CEL on your 97, so that would be a HARD decision especially with the raised limiter.
However, this setup is a piece of cake software wise and if you don't change ANY maps, it won't modify anything, ie you can install it and still be stock. Then wait until somebody with a similar setup tweaks their maps and sends them to you, if you don't like it, switch back to the previous maps. Once you get to a dyno and feel comfortable, you can make some tweaks and see what happens. As long as you don't go crazy and start subtracting out fuel or adding timing, you'll be fine.
We can EASILY create SUPER conservative, ie SAFE, fuel/timing maps just like JWT does that ANYONE can start out with and then slowly modify with their WBO2 or dyno AFR monitor.
Install isn't going to be any more ugly then an AFC. All you're doing is intercepting the MAF voltage and adjusting via RPM, or even a MAP sensor to adjust via boost psi can be built in. However, the timing is still unknown, but probably similar to the J&S.
Once a few PIONEERS do the dirty work, you just download the program and bingo you're done. No sending in your ECU to JWT, waiting GOD only knows how long, and then fine tuning with an AFC on a dyno for peak performance.
JWT *IS* simple/sweet, if you have a 95/96 or don't mind a CEL on your 97, so that would be a HARD decision especially with the raised limiter.
However, this setup is a piece of cake software wise and if you don't change ANY maps, it won't modify anything, ie you can install it and still be stock. Then wait until somebody with a similar setup tweaks their maps and sends them to you, if you don't like it, switch back to the previous maps. Once you get to a dyno and feel comfortable, you can make some tweaks and see what happens. As long as you don't go crazy and start subtracting out fuel or adding timing, you'll be fine.
We can EASILY create SUPER conservative, ie SAFE, fuel/timing maps just like JWT does that ANYONE can start out with and then slowly modify with their WBO2 or dyno AFR monitor.
Install isn't going to be any more ugly then an AFC. All you're doing is intercepting the MAF voltage and adjusting via RPM, or even a MAP sensor to adjust via boost psi can be built in. However, the timing is still unknown, but probably similar to the J&S.
Originally Posted by bags533
hmm... stuff like htis scares me. It is EASY to plug in the JWT ecu. I just don't know about programming all of the requirewd info. And I won't even go into installation.
Good find. I am looking at the site. Look slike I have some info to read while at work.
Thanks for pointing it out alex
Good find. I am looking at the site. Look slike I have some info to read while at work.
Thanks for pointing it out alex
04-06-2004, 11:51 AM
#8
Oh and forgot to add this as well.
How about if you decide to go out and do some late night racing or 1/4-mile runs and want to dump in some race gas and crank the boost? Easy enough, just download new maps. Yeah, you can have JWT do some of that, but it gets expensive.
How about if you decide to go out and do some late night racing or 1/4-mile runs and want to dump in some race gas and crank the boost? Easy enough, just download new maps. Yeah, you can have JWT do some of that, but it gets expensive.
04-06-2004, 01:06 PM
#11
its $529 right?? thats not too bad, pretty similar to the Emanage, except.....Two three-dimensional map tables defined by absolute pressure and RPM 
something that would have REALLY put emange up there as a serious unit IMO 
instead they used TPSxRPM scaling for fuel subtraction/adjustment 
and to those of you scared of serious tuning, I suggest this book..."How to Tune and Modify Engine Management Systems" by Jeff Hartman
and if you are real serious take the EFI 101 course...I learned sooooooo much from that.
www.efi101.com after that you can pretty much easliy tune most of the entry level EMS systems around, you find that majority of them basically use the same platform
something that would have REALLY put emange up there as a serious unit IMO instead they used TPSxRPM scaling for fuel subtraction/adjustment and to those of you scared of serious tuning, I suggest this book..."How to Tune and Modify Engine Management Systems" by Jeff Hartman
and if you are real serious take the EFI 101 course...I learned sooooooo much from that.
www.efi101.com after that you can pretty much easliy tune most of the entry level EMS systems around, you find that majority of them basically use the same platform
04-06-2004, 02:51 PM
#14
yeah, you guys should have taken it last year...it was only $350. but they are upping the price now, because you can get certification now if you complete the 3 courses I think...either way its very fun and educational class, Ben Strader is a ****ing genius and teaches at a good pace!!!
the book is pretty general, but covers most of the major EMSs and a basic overview of EFI from domestics to imports...its not specific really, but a good read
the book is pretty general, but covers most of the major EMSs and a basic overview of EFI from domestics to imports...its not specific really, but a good read
04-06-2004, 03:13 PM
#15
Just ordered:
1)How to Tune and Modify Engine Managements Systems by Jeff Hartman
2)Auto Math Handbook: Calculations, Formulas, Equations and Theory for Automotive Enthusiasts by John Lawlor
3)Maximum Boost: Designing, Testing, and Installing Turbocharger Systems by Corky Bell
Damn magazines haven't been satisfying my technical info fix lately, so this should hold me for awhile.
1)How to Tune and Modify Engine Managements Systems by Jeff Hartman
2)Auto Math Handbook: Calculations, Formulas, Equations and Theory for Automotive Enthusiasts by John Lawlor
3)Maximum Boost: Designing, Testing, and Installing Turbocharger Systems by Corky Bell
Damn magazines haven't been satisfying my technical info fix lately, so this should hold me for awhile.
04-06-2004, 04:25 PM
#16
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
THAT'S THE POINT BAGS~!!!!!!
Install isn't going to be any more ugly then an AFC. All you're doing is intercepting the MAF voltage and adjusting via RPM, or even a MAP sensor to adjust via boost psi can be built in. However, the timing is still unknown, but probably similar to the J&S.
Install isn't going to be any more ugly then an AFC. All you're doing is intercepting the MAF voltage and adjusting via RPM, or even a MAP sensor to adjust via boost psi can be built in. However, the timing is still unknown, but probably similar to the J&S.
You make great points. And I am still reading..lol.
I was not DOWNING this at all. I like it when new products are found.
And if the timing control is similar to the J&S then the ~$500 savings is enough to make my wallet slightly crack..lol
04-06-2004, 05:22 PM
#17
J&S is still superior, since it not only can retard timing X-degrees per psi across ALL cylinders like the SplitSecond, but it can also "hear" knock and pull additional timing on a cylinder by cylinder basis. Plus, it's got a cool A/F and knock meter gauge.
04-06-2004, 10:59 PM
#20
Okay, found out the Vortech SC kit for the 350z comes with a Split Second timing control box.
So, it's available for the VQ35s and the 350z guys are even trading maps already.
Man I need to get my hands on the R4 software.
So, it's available for the VQ35s and the 350z guys are even trading maps already.
Man I need to get my hands on the R4 software.
04-07-2004, 06:01 AM
#21
Originally Posted by DA-MAX
and to those of you scared of serious tuning, I suggest this book..."How to Tune and Modify Engine Management Systems" by Jeff Hartman
I'll say now that it is very informative and on a technical level considerably above the somewhat simplistic (yet still very useful) books by Corky Bell. But Hartman's writing style really irritates me. He is extremely wordy and his sentence construction is unnecessarily complicated. His book requires a lot of extra concentration (above what it would take just to understand the technical aspects of what he is discussing) to get through because of that. He also repeats himself a lot from one chapter to the next, as if the chapters were originally individual magazine articles that were compiled into a book.
Still, definitely worth getting and going through if you're at all interested in engine tuning.
Oh, and one other criticism. He barely acknowledges Nissans at all, spending most of his time talking about domestics, Honda, Toyota and Mitsubishi.
How to Tune and Modify Engine Management Systems
04-07-2004, 10:25 AM
#22
agreed...when I first got it I tried to skim through really quick, but you really have to READ it through, cause the way its organized and written and arranged is wordy like you said and trying to jump in to a specific spot can be difficult. but a good read none the less...the project cars in the back are nice though... 
and yeah he disses Nissan a once or twice in there too 
and yeah he disses Nissan a once or twice in there too
04-07-2004, 11:02 AM
#23
Well Mark Amarandos from Split Second replied TWICE to my emails and in short order. Impressed so far.
He sent me the Install instructions for the FTC1 install on Nissans:
He sent me the Install instructions for the FTC1 install on Nissans:
FTC1-034 Fuel/Timing Calibrator for Nissan
Use and Installation Instructions:
1) Use with R4 software version 1.5
2) Select Vac/Pressure and Programmable Signal Calibrator under system
settings. Refer to the FTC1 data sheet for more information.
3) Program fuel in Map table A
4) The cell values can range from 0 to 20. A value of 10 will result in no
change from stock calibration.
5) Values greater than 10 make the mixture richer. Values less than 10
make the mixture leaner.
6) Cell values can have one decimal place. For example 10.1. There are a
total of 200 levels available for cell value
7) Program the timing in Map table B
8) The cell values can range from 0 to 20. A value of 20 will result in 20
degrees of retard.
9) Disconnect the battery before making connections to the factory wiring
harness.
10) Connect the small gauge RED wire (B+) to switched battery positive.
This is the supply voltage for the FTC1. The best source of power for this
connection is the switched battery wire for the ECU.
11) Connect the heavy gauge RED wire (B+) to switched battery positive.
This is the power source for the auxiliary fuel pump.
12) Connect the RED/BLACK wire to the positive side of the auxiliary fuel
pump.
13) Connect the BLACK wire (B-) to chassis ground.
14) Locate the MAF sensor signal wire and cut it.
15) Connect the GREEN wire to the MAF sensor side of the cut wire.
16) Connect the VIOLET wire to the ECU side of the cut wire.
17) Locate the crank sensor signal wire and cut it.
18) Connect the BLUE wire to the wire leading to the crank sensor.
19) Connect the BLUE/WHITE wire to the wire leading to the ECU crank
sensor input.
20) Locate the cam 1 sensor signal wire and cut it.
21) Connect the YELLOW wire to the wire leading to the cam sensor.
22) Connect the YELLOW/BLACK wire to the wire leading to the ECU cam
sensor input.
23) Locate the cam 2 sensor signal wire and cut it.
24) Connect the TAN wire to the wire leading to the cam sensor.
25) Connect the TAN/BLACK wire to the wire leading to the ECU cam sensor
input.
26) Reconnect the battery.
Use and Installation Instructions:
1) Use with R4 software version 1.5
2) Select Vac/Pressure and Programmable Signal Calibrator under system
settings. Refer to the FTC1 data sheet for more information.
3) Program fuel in Map table A
4) The cell values can range from 0 to 20. A value of 10 will result in no
change from stock calibration.
5) Values greater than 10 make the mixture richer. Values less than 10
make the mixture leaner.
6) Cell values can have one decimal place. For example 10.1. There are a
total of 200 levels available for cell value
7) Program the timing in Map table B
8) The cell values can range from 0 to 20. A value of 20 will result in 20
degrees of retard.
9) Disconnect the battery before making connections to the factory wiring
harness.
10) Connect the small gauge RED wire (B+) to switched battery positive.
This is the supply voltage for the FTC1. The best source of power for this
connection is the switched battery wire for the ECU.
11) Connect the heavy gauge RED wire (B+) to switched battery positive.
This is the power source for the auxiliary fuel pump.
12) Connect the RED/BLACK wire to the positive side of the auxiliary fuel
pump.
13) Connect the BLACK wire (B-) to chassis ground.
14) Locate the MAF sensor signal wire and cut it.
15) Connect the GREEN wire to the MAF sensor side of the cut wire.
16) Connect the VIOLET wire to the ECU side of the cut wire.
17) Locate the crank sensor signal wire and cut it.
18) Connect the BLUE wire to the wire leading to the crank sensor.
19) Connect the BLUE/WHITE wire to the wire leading to the ECU crank
sensor input.
20) Locate the cam 1 sensor signal wire and cut it.
21) Connect the YELLOW wire to the wire leading to the cam sensor.
22) Connect the YELLOW/BLACK wire to the wire leading to the ECU cam
sensor input.
23) Locate the cam 2 sensor signal wire and cut it.
24) Connect the TAN wire to the wire leading to the cam sensor.
25) Connect the TAN/BLACK wire to the wire leading to the ECU cam sensor
input.
26) Reconnect the battery.
04-07-2004, 11:05 AM
#24
Mardi, can you verify this is correct for the VQ30?
17) Locate the crank sensor signal wire and cut it.
18) Connect the BLUE wire to the wire leading to the crank sensor.
19) Connect the BLUE/WHITE wire to the wire leading to the ECU crank
sensor input.
20) Locate the cam 1 sensor signal wire and cut it.
21) Connect the YELLOW wire to the wire leading to the cam sensor.
22) Connect the YELLOW/BLACK wire to the wire leading to the ECU cam
sensor input.
23) Locate the cam 2 sensor signal wire and cut it.
24) Connect the TAN wire to the wire leading to the cam sensor.
25) Connect the TAN/BLACK wire to the wire leading to the ECU cam sensor
input.
18) Connect the BLUE wire to the wire leading to the crank sensor.
19) Connect the BLUE/WHITE wire to the wire leading to the ECU crank
sensor input.
20) Locate the cam 1 sensor signal wire and cut it.
21) Connect the YELLOW wire to the wire leading to the cam sensor.
22) Connect the YELLOW/BLACK wire to the wire leading to the ECU cam
sensor input.
23) Locate the cam 2 sensor signal wire and cut it.
24) Connect the TAN wire to the wire leading to the cam sensor.
25) Connect the TAN/BLACK wire to the wire leading to the ECU cam sensor
input.
04-07-2004, 01:13 PM
#25
see this is what confuses me(as far as retarding timing on some coil cars)...while J&S and Emanage intercept coil signals, this system intercepts 2 cam and a crank signal(which is similar to some of the MSD, etc. apps I've seen)...am I missing something? is there a difference in these two ways 
Quote:
17) Locate the crank sensor signal wire and cut it.
18) Connect the BLUE wire to the wire leading to the crank sensor.
19) Connect the BLUE/WHITE wire to the wire leading to the ECU crank
sensor input.
20) Locate the cam 1 sensor signal wire and cut it.
21) Connect the YELLOW wire to the wire leading to the cam sensor.
22) Connect the YELLOW/BLACK wire to the wire leading to the ECU cam
sensor input.
23) Locate the cam 2 sensor signal wire and cut it.
24) Connect the TAN wire to the wire leading to the cam sensor.
25) Connect the TAN/BLACK wire to the wire leading to the ECU cam sensor
input.
OR
http://www.jandssafeguard.com/MaximaDrawing3.gif (similar to Emanage as well)
Quote:
17) Locate the crank sensor signal wire and cut it.
18) Connect the BLUE wire to the wire leading to the crank sensor.
19) Connect the BLUE/WHITE wire to the wire leading to the ECU crank
sensor input.
20) Locate the cam 1 sensor signal wire and cut it.
21) Connect the YELLOW wire to the wire leading to the cam sensor.
22) Connect the YELLOW/BLACK wire to the wire leading to the ECU cam
sensor input.
23) Locate the cam 2 sensor signal wire and cut it.
24) Connect the TAN wire to the wire leading to the cam sensor.
25) Connect the TAN/BLACK wire to the wire leading to the ECU cam sensor
input.
OR
http://www.jandssafeguard.com/MaximaDrawing3.gif (similar to Emanage as well)
04-07-2004, 01:24 PM
#26
My *GUESS* and that's *PURE GUESS* is that the eManage/J&S signal modify the OUTPUT of the ECU to retard timing, while the FTC1 signal modifies the INPUT to the ECU to cause it to retard timing.
04-07-2004, 07:53 PM
#27
I with you on that...so looks like split second intercepts those 3 sensor readings, intakes the info, applies your changes(thus altering the 3 signals accordingly to reflect your timing changes), outputs altered info to ECU, ECU acts accordingly and sends the corresponding signal to coils(retard/advance)...enh? 
04-07-2004, 08:29 PM
#29
Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 58
Let me begin saying that english is my third language and I don't know anything about tunning my engine.
I want to start reading more about it. I will buy the book when I understand a little more about this, in the mean time can someone please send me some links to start learning.
I only have the PSC1, Speed Force Racing is doing all the tuning, last week they finished with a G35 and it dyno 402 rwhp. When they finish with mine it should be close to 380 whp at 6.5 psi vice the 345 that I'm running now at 5.5 psi. I'm going to ask them for the software.
I want to start reading more about it. I will buy the book when I understand a little more about this, in the mean time can someone please send me some links to start learning.
I only have the PSC1, Speed Force Racing is doing all the tuning, last week they finished with a G35 and it dyno 402 rwhp. When they finish with mine it should be close to 380 whp at 6.5 psi vice the 345 that I'm running now at 5.5 psi. I'm going to ask them for the software.
04-07-2004, 08:55 PM
#30
Guerrero...ONLY three? 
Anyways, welcome and I hope to learn more about how your setup holds up.
Definitely get the R4 software CD, we'll, I mean you'll need that.
Anyways, I highly recommend you get SOMEthing for timing, I'd sell the PSC1 and go with the FTC1 or J&S.
As far as tuning, I think this is worthwhile reading, http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articl...ne/Detonation/, but honestly I'm a newb on hands on tuning.
Anyways, welcome and I hope to learn more about how your setup holds up.
Definitely get the R4 software CD, we'll, I mean you'll need that.
Anyways, I highly recommend you get SOMEthing for timing, I'd sell the PSC1 and go with the FTC1 or J&S.
As far as tuning, I think this is worthwhile reading, http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articl...ne/Detonation/, but honestly I'm a newb on hands on tuning.
04-13-2004, 09:34 AM
#33
VQ35 Vortech SC program my350z.com baby steps on learning SS R4 software for the FTC1:
http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthre...threadid=69509
Map A for Fuel:
Map B for Timing:
Closeup of Fuel:
http://www.my350z.com/forum/attachme...&postid=776634
Closeup of Timing:
http://www.my350z.com/forum/attachme...&postid=776641
Dyno Printout:
http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthre...threadid=69509
Dyno Chart:
http://www.my350z.com/forum/attachme...&postid=776654
http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthre...threadid=69509
Map A for Fuel:
Map B for Timing:
Closeup of Fuel:
http://www.my350z.com/forum/attachme...&postid=776634
Closeup of Timing:
http://www.my350z.com/forum/attachme...&postid=776641
Dyno Printout:
http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthre...threadid=69509
Dyno Chart:
http://www.my350z.com/forum/attachme...&postid=776654
04-14-2004, 10:21 AM
#35
Can you explain where you found out how eManage controls fuel by TPSxRPM? Does that change, once you add the optional MAP sensor?
With the injector harness, doesn't eManage still condition MAF voltage to indirectly control fuel? If so, you're limited by MAF capacity, correct?
So, once you surpass MAF capacity, you'd rely on the MAP sensor to 'measure' additional airflow? If so, how is additional fuel added?
Does the injector harness "tap" the signal to the injectors or intercept them?
With the injector harness, doesn't eManage still condition MAF voltage to indirectly control fuel? If so, you're limited by MAF capacity, correct?
So, once you surpass MAF capacity, you'd rely on the MAP sensor to 'measure' additional airflow? If so, how is additional fuel added?
Does the injector harness "tap" the signal to the injectors or intercept them?
Originally Posted by DA-MAX
its $529 right?? thats not too bad, pretty similar to the Emanage, except.....Two three-dimensional map tables defined by absolute pressure and RPM something that would have REALLY put emange up there as a serious unit IMO instead they used TPSxRPM scaling for fuel subtraction/adjustment
something that would have REALLY put emange up there as a serious unit IMO instead they used TPSxRPM scaling for fuel subtraction/adjustment
04-14-2004, 01:32 PM
#36
1. there is a pulldown menu above each map, you can use TPS x RPM, MAP x RPM(which is the best IMO) etc. This will work for most all of the maps EXCEPT the airflow adjustment map(which is by far the most important for guys with bigger CCs). on the AA map you can only do TPS x RPM( EVEN with the Greddy sensor in use)...tuing by throttle position is decent, but IMO(and as you'll see in most other dedicated rom editors, MAPxRPM is the choice of most. its just so much simpler to tune based on your psi rather than TPS IMO.
yes with the injector harness, fuel control(as far as subtracting when using bigger CCs) is dependent on MAF voltage, which is basically why that map is called the Airflow Adjstment map...so yes you are limited, but that raises the argument concerning the Greddy pressure sensor which I'll get into for the next question.
now this is the thing I'm 50/50 over....now yes the Greddy sensor DOES wokr in the Sub Injection and Add. Injection maps, BUT does the Greddy MAP sensor "take over" in the AA Map when stock MAF is exceeded is the real question. from my readin does it just allows you to view the "exteneded" voltage in the datalog. as far as the Greddy sensor goes with the AA Map, it is simply used as a tuning tool you use if you are tuning based on MAF votlage and allows the tuner to view what the the NEW voltage WOULD be if the stock MAF was still reading and not maxed out. exmaple...imagine we are watching the datalog as we dyno...stock MAF conks out at 4.98v...**** we are maxed out, we can't really tune, BUT no, the Greddy sensor is still reading fine and displaying the NEW votage level.....now the question is, is the Emanage now making changes to the fuel system or is this just allowing you view the new voltage in order to get a little more out of your now maxed out system?? I went through this in another Emanage thread and I had a good example that proved the Greddy sensor was ONLY used in the AA map in order for the tuner to view the new votage and make changes...I'll try and dig that up.
and lastly the injector harness taps the signal...the only wires that are intercepted are the ignition wires.
*takes a breather*
if I stated anything wrong in there and Dixit or SX7R or any of the other Emanage guys wanna clean it up, go ahead. 
yes with the injector harness, fuel control(as far as subtracting when using bigger CCs) is dependent on MAF voltage, which is basically why that map is called the Airflow Adjstment map...so yes you are limited, but that raises the argument concerning the Greddy pressure sensor which I'll get into for the next question.
now this is the thing I'm 50/50 over....now yes the Greddy sensor DOES wokr in the Sub Injection and Add. Injection maps, BUT does the Greddy MAP sensor "take over" in the AA Map when stock MAF is exceeded is the real question. from my readin does it just allows you to view the "exteneded" voltage in the datalog. as far as the Greddy sensor goes with the AA Map, it is simply used as a tuning tool you use if you are tuning based on MAF votlage and allows the tuner to view what the the NEW voltage WOULD be if the stock MAF was still reading and not maxed out. exmaple...imagine we are watching the datalog as we dyno...stock MAF conks out at 4.98v...**** we are maxed out, we can't really tune, BUT no, the Greddy sensor is still reading fine and displaying the NEW votage level.....now the question is, is the Emanage now making changes to the fuel system or is this just allowing you view the new voltage in order to get a little more out of your now maxed out system?? I went through this in another Emanage thread and I had a good example that proved the Greddy sensor was ONLY used in the AA map in order for the tuner to view the new votage and make changes...I'll try and dig that up.
and lastly the injector harness taps the signal...the only wires that are intercepted are the ignition wires.
*takes a breather*
if I stated anything wrong in there and Dixit or SX7R or any of the other Emanage guys wanna clean it up, go ahead.
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Can you explain where you found out how eManage controls fuel by TPSxRPM? Does that change, once you add the optional MAP sensor?
With the injector harness, doesn't eManage still condition MAF voltage to indirectly control fuel? If so, you're limited by MAF capacity, correct?
So, once you surpass MAF capacity, you'd rely on the MAP sensor to 'measure' additional airflow? If so, how is additional fuel added?
Does the injector harness "tap" the signal to the injectors or intercept them?
With the injector harness, doesn't eManage still condition MAF voltage to indirectly control fuel? If so, you're limited by MAF capacity, correct?
So, once you surpass MAF capacity, you'd rely on the MAP sensor to 'measure' additional airflow? If so, how is additional fuel added?
Does the injector harness "tap" the signal to the injectors or intercept them?
04-14-2004, 01:39 PM
#37
ICE, concerning the pressure sensor...read my reply here...a little more clearer (post #47)
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=286432&page=2
(post #47)http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=286432&page=2
04-14-2004, 01:54 PM
#38
Can you double check that, I think it's the other way around.
I'm not sure on the injector harness, but according to what I saw for the 350z it was tapping the ignition wires IIRC. I'll look again.
I'm not sure on the injector harness, but according to what I saw for the 350z it was tapping the ignition wires IIRC. I'll look again.
Originally Posted by DA-MAX
and lastly the injector harness taps the signal...the only wires that are intercepted are the ignition wires.