Dyno Analisis and Z32 MAF Questions
Originally Posted by matty
Where does that hose go thats coming off of the BOV ??
.[/QUOTE]This piece is an oem Z32 intake duct part.[/QUOTE]
Im tryin to understand all of this[/QUOTE]

Pictures have been edited to include some explanatory text.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
No.....you don't.
I would seriously consider if you do put it on the charged side however that you keep a socket wrench and a spare MAF in your trunk, just in case it blows.
IanS
I would seriously consider if you do put it on the charged side however that you keep a socket wrench and a spare MAF in your trunk, just in case it blows.
IanS
Well I havent really decided where I am going to put it yet....really up in the air and Ill wait till either more people put in the fender well or on the charged side 
-matt

-matt
Originally Posted by Prodeje79
Look at his car domain site page 2 , pic 3
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/260562/2
He has a hose going from his BOV to the recric point.
Remember, of course, he is not running the z32 maf on the intake side.
No one has done this yet with 18 inches, therefore there are not pics to show you, but you can get the idea by looking at his pics.
Someone want to draw us a nice diagram I could give to my pipe maker? :>
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/260562/2
He has a hose going from his BOV to the recric point.
Remember, of course, he is not running the z32 maf on the intake side.
No one has done this yet with 18 inches, therefore there are not pics to show you, but you can get the idea by looking at his pics.
Someone want to draw us a nice diagram I could give to my pipe maker? :>
S
Originally Posted by iansw
No.....you don't.
I would seriously consider if you do put it on the charged side however that you keep a socket wrench and a spare MAF in your trunk, just in case it blows.
IanS
I would seriously consider if you do put it on the charged side however that you keep a socket wrench and a spare MAF in your trunk, just in case it blows.
IanS
You can get home in limp mode if the maf blows, from what I've heard. But I do keep a spare in the trunk anyway.
Stephen,
You think your lean AFR and intermittent light throttle detonation could be a result of JWTs program not accounting for the extra air you're flowing from these "improvements" you've made?
I think you're flowing sufficiently more air then JWT has accounted for and that's why you're having some issues including your lean AFR, which isn't normal. Maybe a reprogram to correct for more airflow would be a good idea.
Just a thought to account for all these optimizations you've made.
You think your lean AFR and intermittent light throttle detonation could be a result of JWTs program not accounting for the extra air you're flowing from these "improvements" you've made?
I think you're flowing sufficiently more air then JWT has accounted for and that's why you're having some issues including your lean AFR, which isn't normal. Maybe a reprogram to correct for more airflow would be a good idea.
Just a thought to account for all these optimizations you've made.
You can gain power running an IC with a SC, it's just difficult.
Aquamist is simple to install and if AFR and/or timing is tuned more aggressively, you will gain power.
BOTH are great at decreasing charge temps, which drastically decreases the potential for detonation. However, only Aquamists' in-cylinder cooling of the valves, head surface, cylinder walls, piston surface, and especially the plug tip/carbon deposits allows a safer stable combustion process with minimal chance for preignition.
Fuel ratios of <12.5:1 to combat detonation are inefficient and decrease power. It takes 1/6 the amount of water to combat detonation compared to fuel due to it's 6x latent heat(gas = 350 vs. water = 2256). Water alone will allow you to SAFELY increase AFR, which allows more air into the combustion process along with all it's cooling benefits to produce *MORE* power. Add in upto 50% methanol to the mix and you have even greater knock suppression then water alone.
Aquamist is simple to install and if AFR and/or timing is tuned more aggressively, you will gain power.
BOTH are great at decreasing charge temps, which drastically decreases the potential for detonation. However, only Aquamists' in-cylinder cooling of the valves, head surface, cylinder walls, piston surface, and especially the plug tip/carbon deposits allows a safer stable combustion process with minimal chance for preignition.
Fuel ratios of <12.5:1 to combat detonation are inefficient and decrease power. It takes 1/6 the amount of water to combat detonation compared to fuel due to it's 6x latent heat(gas = 350 vs. water = 2256). Water alone will allow you to SAFELY increase AFR, which allows more air into the combustion process along with all it's cooling benefits to produce *MORE* power. Add in upto 50% methanol to the mix and you have even greater knock suppression then water alone.
Originally Posted by iansw
All the research I've seen on this Forum says that a SC + FMIC causes power and boost loss due to the bends in the piping and the FMIC itself.
Aquamist also may or may not do the same thing - but since it's a cheaper alternative, I will probably do that and see what happens.....
IanS
Aquamist also may or may not do the same thing - but since it's a cheaper alternative, I will probably do that and see what happens.....
IanS
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
It seems however that if I go above 13.0:1 I lose power. Everything i've read about AFR in outside articles/reports tells me this also is true. That's why I gained power by adding more fuel in the dynos above.
It seems somewhere between 12.5:1 and 13:1 is the "sweet spot" for AFR. Anyone have conclusive data on this? I know some people gained hp before by dropping it from 12.5:1 to 11.5:1. (I think it was Kev, but I'm not 100% on that). What does that tell us? What does it mean?
Granted - the JWT seems to be keeping me about at 12.0:1 - which is a little too low if I were IC'ed or had Aquamist and wanted to "lean it out".
So, assuming leaning it to say 13:1 added power, How would that be done? With an adjustable FPR? (This is of course AFTER the Aquamist goes in).
IanS
It seems somewhere between 12.5:1 and 13:1 is the "sweet spot" for AFR. Anyone have conclusive data on this? I know some people gained hp before by dropping it from 12.5:1 to 11.5:1. (I think it was Kev, but I'm not 100% on that). What does that tell us? What does it mean?
Granted - the JWT seems to be keeping me about at 12.0:1 - which is a little too low if I were IC'ed or had Aquamist and wanted to "lean it out".
So, assuming leaning it to say 13:1 added power, How would that be done? With an adjustable FPR? (This is of course AFTER the Aquamist goes in).
IanS
I'm still researching/learning how tuning with WI/WAI is performed.
I've only just scratched the surface, but here is one place I think has the answers, but I'm still digging through:
http://waterinjection.info/phpBB2/
I've only just scratched the surface, but here is one place I think has the answers, but I'm still digging through:
http://waterinjection.info/phpBB2/
Just to clarify, I'm far from an expert on tuning, let alone Aquamist tuning, so take this for what it's worth.
Timing is typically directly related to injector pulse-width, so leaner(less pulse-width) means less timing advace = less power and richer = vise versa. Also, sometimes when you see a dip in AFR, it's because the MAF is measuring more air and the ECU is richening the AFR, so more air is causing more power not necessarily the excess fuel(ignoring added timing).
I'd have JWT reprogram your ECU, so you keep your timing. Otherwise, it's AFC or play with fuel pressure.
Also, JWT programs Aquamist for the SR20 guys by having a daughter board that turns on the Aquamist, advances the timing, and plays with the fuel.
Originally Posted by iansw
It seems however that if I go above 13.0:1 I lose power. Everything i've read about AFR in outside articles/reports tells me this also is true. That's why I gained power by adding more fuel in the dynos above.
It seems somewhere between 12.5:1 and 13:1 is the "sweet spot" for AFR. Anyone have conclusive data on this? I know some people gained hp before by dropping it from 12.5:1 to 11.5:1. (I think it was Kev, but I'm not 100% on that). What does that tell us? What does it mean?
It seems somewhere between 12.5:1 and 13:1 is the "sweet spot" for AFR. Anyone have conclusive data on this? I know some people gained hp before by dropping it from 12.5:1 to 11.5:1. (I think it was Kev, but I'm not 100% on that). What does that tell us? What does it mean?
Granted - the JWT seems to be keeping me about at 12.0:1 - which is a little too low if I were IC'ed or had Aquamist and wanted to "lean it out".
So, assuming leaning it to say 13:1 added power, How would that be done? With an adjustable FPR? (This is of course AFTER the Aquamist goes in).
IanS
So, assuming leaning it to say 13:1 added power, How would that be done? With an adjustable FPR? (This is of course AFTER the Aquamist goes in).
IanS
Also, JWT programs Aquamist for the SR20 guys by having a daughter board that turns on the Aquamist, advances the timing, and plays with the fuel.
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Stephen,
You think your lean AFR and intermittent light throttle detonation could be a result of JWTs program not accounting for the extra air you're flowing from these "improvements" you've made?
I think you're flowing sufficiently more air then JWT has accounted for and that's why you're having some issues including your lean AFR, which isn't normal. Maybe a reprogram to correct for more airflow would be a good idea.
Just a thought to account for all these optimizations you've made.
You think your lean AFR and intermittent light throttle detonation could be a result of JWTs program not accounting for the extra air you're flowing from these "improvements" you've made?
I think you're flowing sufficiently more air then JWT has accounted for and that's why you're having some issues including your lean AFR, which isn't normal. Maybe a reprogram to correct for more airflow would be a good idea.
Just a thought to account for all these optimizations you've made.
What I am wondering about, though, is my TPS signal. My TPS has always sent a somewhat low signal. (The SAFC monitors TPS voltage, so I know what I'm getting at different throttle settings.) For instance, the FSM says that TPS voltage should be approximately (the FSM's wording) .36V at idle and 4V at WOT. My signals are around .2V at idle and 3.6V at WOT. It could be that the ecu is interpreting the 3.6V as something less than WOT and therefore thnks the engine is not being loaded 100%, hence it is not giving full mixture enrichment.
I have tried adjusting my TPS to give me 4V at WOT, but when I do I get an idle speed of around 2000 rpm that won't come down, even when I follow the FSM's procedure for idle adjustment.
What I am going to do as an experiment is this. Since I am using a Cartech FMU to fiddle with afr and the SAFC is lying unused, I am going to route the TPS signal through the SAFC so that I can increase or decrease the TPS voltage going to the ecu. That way I can artificially adjust the TPS voltage to give me 4V at WOT above a certain rpm. Then do some runs and see where my afr is.
Originally Posted by Stephen Max
The way I understand it is that since the fuel mapping is based on maf input, any mods that improve air flow are automatically accounted for already. Thats the beauty of going to an air-flow referenced engine management system. The ecu is pretty much blind to mods, all it sees is voltage from the maf, TPS signal and engine rpm.
I've always heard/considered JWT to be ultra-conservative, but maybe in this case they're a little to agressive on the partial throttle/light load map locations. Just something you might ask JWT about. I'm sure they'd help defunk this.
What I am wondering about, though, is my TPS signal. My TPS has always sent a somewhat low signal. (The SAFC monitors TPS voltage, so I know what I'm getting at different throttle settings.) For instance, the FSM says that TPS voltage should be approximately (the FSM's wording) .36V at idle and 4V at WOT. My signals are around .2V at idle and 3.6V at WOT. It could be that the ecu is interpreting the 3.6V as something less than WOT and therefore thnks the engine is not being loaded 100%, hence it is not giving full mixture enrichment.
I have tried adjusting my TPS to give me 4V at WOT, but when I do I get an idle speed of around 2000 rpm that won't come down, even when I follow the FSM's procedure for idle adjustment.
What I am going to do as an experiment is this. Since I am using a Cartech FMU to fiddle with afr and the SAFC is lying unused, I am going to route the TPS signal through the SAFC so that I can increase or decrease the TPS voltage going to the ecu. That way I can artificially adjust the TPS voltage to give me 4V at WOT above a certain rpm. Then do some runs and see where my afr is.
I have tried adjusting my TPS to give me 4V at WOT, but when I do I get an idle speed of around 2000 rpm that won't come down, even when I follow the FSM's procedure for idle adjustment.
What I am going to do as an experiment is this. Since I am using a Cartech FMU to fiddle with afr and the SAFC is lying unused, I am going to route the TPS signal through the SAFC so that I can increase or decrease the TPS voltage going to the ecu. That way I can artificially adjust the TPS voltage to give me 4V at WOT above a certain rpm. Then do some runs and see where my afr is.
One other suspect I'll always have in the back of my mind is those olive injectors and whether they're really 370cc. Even if they are, I've read that non flow-matched injectors can cause detonation issues when one lower cc flowing injector happens to be located on a cylinder that gets less fuel then it needs and you must retard ALL cylinders for that detonation prone one. Basically, you're limiting all cylinders by your weakest.
Just trying to think of anything.
Just trying to think of anything.
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
One other suspect I'll always have in the back of my mind is those olive injectors and whether they're really 370cc. Even if they are, I've read that non flow-matched injectors can cause detonation issues when one lower cc flowing injector happens to be located on a cylinder that gets less fuel then it needs and you must retard ALL cylinders for that detonation prone one. Basically, you're limiting all cylinders by your weakest.
Just trying to think of anything.
Just trying to think of anything.
JOo must tell me these things, so I don't get confused...LOL!How much?

Originally Posted by Stephen Max
I only had the olive injectors in for about two weeks. When I got the partial throttle detonation I jumped to the conclusion that it was the injectors, so I bought brand new (purple) ones from the dealer. But that was not the problem. The olive ones had been flow matched by RC Engineering, according to the documentation that came with them.
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
You have a Pathfinder TB, matched IM, 3" crossover piping, CAI, and Z32 elbow, correct? I'd ASSume with all your changes you've considerably helped increase airflow and JWTs not accounting for this in their program especially under partial throttle/light loads.
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
So, as soon as you put in the Z32 MAF, TT injectors, and JWT ECU or close there after, you got some light throttle detonation, correct?
Any other changes you can think of?
Any other changes you can think of?
Like I mentioned earlier I feel that it may be a timing issue caused by my TPS sending a lower than expected voltage to the ecu. Timing maps are controlled by rpm and TPS voltage (and maybe maf volts, too), so perhaps a low TPS voltage is making the ecu think the engine is not being loaded as heavily as it really is under partial throttle acceleration, and timing may be advanced too far for the conditions to warrant.
What I'm going to do this weekend is block off the IAC air supply and use the throttle stop set screw (the one that controls the butterfly position at rest, not the plastic screw up by the IACS) to control idle speed. Then I can set the TPS to give me 4V at WOT without having a 2000 rpm idle. This may or may not work. Certainly the engine won't idle very well until it is warmed up, but now that the weather is warm that won't be much of a problem. But I also lose idle speed adjustment for when the AC is on or when the power steering pump is being used, so I don't consider this a fix, just an experiment. If it does work, I can find out if the higher voltage TPS setting eliminates the partial throttle pinging.
DAVEB got me six injectors at $102 apiece, slightly better than what Courtesy sells them for.
Originally Posted by Stephen Max
That's right, but I only get it on very warm days after the engine is hot. It happens when accelerating at about 40-50% throttle, and injector duty cycle is 10-20%. I helped the situation considerably when I recently got a Cartech fmu and set it so that it raises fuel pressure just before the onset of boost (like at about 3" vacuum).
Yes, MAF will measure additional incoming air, but how much fuel/timing JWT plugged into the two 3D maps at those particular locations may be too agressive for your SC setup pulley size and lower restriction vs. a standard SC kit or maybe your intake temps are just too high and you could benefit from an IC or WI. Of course, forcing in extra fuel with your Cartech to go from 12:1-->11.5:1 will work too.
Like I mentioned earlier I feel that it may be a timing issue caused by my TPS sending a lower than expected voltage to the ecu. Timing maps are controlled by rpm and TPS voltage (and maybe maf volts, too), so perhaps a low TPS voltage is making the ecu think the engine is not being loaded as heavily as it really is under partial throttle acceleration, and timing may be advanced too far for the conditions to warrant.
What I'm going to do this weekend is block off the IAC air supply and use the throttle stop set screw (the one that controls the butterfly position at rest, not the plastic screw up by the IACS) to control idle speed. Then I can set the TPS to give me 4V at WOT without having a 2000 rpm idle. This may or may not work. Certainly the engine won't idle very well until it is warmed up, but now that the weather is warm that won't be much of a problem. But I also lose idle speed adjustment for when the AC is on or when the power steering pump is being used, so I don't consider this a fix, just an experiment. If it does work, I can find out if the higher voltage TPS setting eliminates the partial throttle pinging.
DAVEB got me six injectors at $102 apiece, slightly better than what Courtesy sells them for.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
So - yesterday an EEPROM from a 1996 JWT ECU with 370's/Z32 MAF and SC Program showed up along with a Z32 MAF from Confused.
I remembered after he shipped it that my ECU is actually a 1995. But decided that logically if a 1995 AND 1996 JWT ECU works fine in a 97 Maxima, the EEPROM should work.
Put the Z32 MAF in (on the charged side until I figure out piping) and the EEPROM.
Started the car - it ran SUPER rich, and the MAF was reading 3.7 volts at idle, where my A32 MAF usually reads around 1 volt.
So obviously either the MAF is bad (unlikely) or the 96 EEPROM doesn't work in a 95 ECU. This doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me.
Anyone care to try an explanation for this?
I put the A32 MAF and EEPROM back in and it runs fine again.
I remembered after he shipped it that my ECU is actually a 1995. But decided that logically if a 1995 AND 1996 JWT ECU works fine in a 97 Maxima, the EEPROM should work.
Put the Z32 MAF in (on the charged side until I figure out piping) and the EEPROM.
Started the car - it ran SUPER rich, and the MAF was reading 3.7 volts at idle, where my A32 MAF usually reads around 1 volt.
So obviously either the MAF is bad (unlikely) or the 96 EEPROM doesn't work in a 95 ECU. This doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me.
Anyone care to try an explanation for this?
I put the A32 MAF and EEPROM back in and it runs fine again.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
Nope - can't be it - JWT's ECU Programs are generic (they don't have a "charged or "non-charged" program) - Stephen Max is running on the charged side with the JWT ECU/Z32 MAF without issues.
Also, Z32 MAFs read both "suction" and "blow" - and you have to suck in x amount of air through the blower to put x amount through the piping. So the MAF should read the same either way.
The reason JWT says you shouldn't mount on the charged side is because all that air is pressurized and more forceful. But it's the same amount of air nonetheless.
Someone else either cooborate that statement above or tell me I'm wrong - but I don't think I am.
Anyone else have any ideas?
Also, Z32 MAFs read both "suction" and "blow" - and you have to suck in x amount of air through the blower to put x amount through the piping. So the MAF should read the same either way.
The reason JWT says you shouldn't mount on the charged side is because all that air is pressurized and more forceful. But it's the same amount of air nonetheless.
Someone else either cooborate that statement above or tell me I'm wrong - but I don't think I am.
Anyone else have any ideas?
Originally Posted by iansw
So - yesterday an EEPROM from a 1996 JWT ECU with 370's/Z32 MAF and SC Program showed up along with a Z32 MAF from Confused.
I remembered after he shipped it that my ECU is actually a 1995. But decided that logically if a 1995 AND 1996 JWT ECU works fine in a 97 Maxima, the EEPROM should work.
Put the Z32 MAF in (on the charged side until I figure out piping) and the EEPROM.
Started the car - it ran SUPER rich, and the MAF was reading 3.7 volts at idle, where my A32 MAF usually reads around 1 volt.
So obviously either the MAF is bad (unlikely) or the 96 EEPROM doesn't work in a 95 ECU. This doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me.
Anyone care to try an explanation for this?
I put the A32 MAF and EEPROM back in and it runs fine again.
I remembered after he shipped it that my ECU is actually a 1995. But decided that logically if a 1995 AND 1996 JWT ECU works fine in a 97 Maxima, the EEPROM should work.
Put the Z32 MAF in (on the charged side until I figure out piping) and the EEPROM.
Started the car - it ran SUPER rich, and the MAF was reading 3.7 volts at idle, where my A32 MAF usually reads around 1 volt.
So obviously either the MAF is bad (unlikely) or the 96 EEPROM doesn't work in a 95 ECU. This doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me.
Anyone care to try an explanation for this?
I put the A32 MAF and EEPROM back in and it runs fine again.
You were measuring the maf volts with the SAFC, right?
Are you sure you got the wiring right for the Z32 maf connector?
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
I checked it a few times using the diagram from the JWT site.
on the Tomei Connector:
black/silver = signal - connected to A32 white/green
black=ground - connected to A32 black
brown=ground - connected to engine bolt
White=+!2v - connected to A32 Red
on the Tomei Connector:
black/silver = signal - connected to A32 white/green
black=ground - connected to A32 black
brown=ground - connected to engine bolt
White=+!2v - connected to A32 Red
The more I think about it, the more it seems like the MAF is the issue. Good thing is we have schuss Z32 to test the maf on. Should also test the new EEPROM with the A32 maf just to make sure the car still runs, granted it may not run very pretty, she should still run.
And again...STOOPID park neutral switch.
S
And again...STOOPID park neutral switch.
S
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
Maybe the MAF out of a 350z? (I think it's the same however).
Anyway - tested the MAF on schuss' car today.
Works great. Reads 1.45v at idle.
So the MAF is NOT the problem.
So I guess this EEPROM just will not work with this ECU at all. Still doesn't make sense to me however - the A/F System is no different on any Maximas from 1995-1998....
Anyway - tested the MAF on schuss' car today.
Works great. Reads 1.45v at idle.
So the MAF is NOT the problem.
So I guess this EEPROM just will not work with this ECU at all. Still doesn't make sense to me however - the A/F System is no different on any Maximas from 1995-1998....
are the B-E pins in the correct order? All connections solid? did you cut the max harness off and replace it with the tomei?
Originally Posted by iansw
I checked it a few times using the diagram from the JWT site.
on the Tomei Connector:
black/silver = signal - connected to A32 white/green
black=ground - connected to A32 black
brown=ground - connected to engine bolt
White=+!2v - connected to A32 Red
on the Tomei Connector:
black/silver = signal - connected to A32 white/green
black=ground - connected to A32 black
brown=ground - connected to engine bolt
White=+!2v - connected to A32 Red
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
I used wire taps and checked everything with a voltmeter against my friend's 300zx to make sure I have the wiring right.
I get continuosity between the signal line and the ECU at the harness, 12v where I should be getting it, and 2 grounds as I should be. (B is signal, C/D are ground, E is +12v - just like the JWT diagram says.) I verified this on the Z also.
The wiring is solid.
BUT - I got a PM from Stephen Max this morning and he mentioned air leak and FP in the same paragraph.
Then I remembered - when we put the piping back in after changing the MAF, I don't think we hooked the vacuum up to the BOV. The BOV happens to be tapped into the FPR.
So I would have been at 50 PSI on Fuel Presure, and about 5 on the vacuum.
I don't know if that was enough to make it crazy rich like it was (the garage instantly filled with smoke) - or to make the Z32 MAF read 2 full volts over where it should have - but it's a theory. So after work today if I have time - I'm going to try again.
I'll post here my results.
Confused - What Bar is the FP programming on this EEPROM? THat also may be an issue since I'm at 40PSI at idle.
IanS
I get continuosity between the signal line and the ECU at the harness, 12v where I should be getting it, and 2 grounds as I should be. (B is signal, C/D are ground, E is +12v - just like the JWT diagram says.) I verified this on the Z also.
The wiring is solid.
BUT - I got a PM from Stephen Max this morning and he mentioned air leak and FP in the same paragraph.
Then I remembered - when we put the piping back in after changing the MAF, I don't think we hooked the vacuum up to the BOV. The BOV happens to be tapped into the FPR.
So I would have been at 50 PSI on Fuel Presure, and about 5 on the vacuum.
I don't know if that was enough to make it crazy rich like it was (the garage instantly filled with smoke) - or to make the Z32 MAF read 2 full volts over where it should have - but it's a theory. So after work today if I have time - I'm going to try again.
I'll post here my results.
Confused - What Bar is the FP programming on this EEPROM? THat also may be an issue since I'm at 40PSI at idle.
IanS
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
I don't have an FPR, but will definatley need one to pass emmissions later this year because I will have to put my stock ECU back in and unhook the SC while running the 370cc's.
What effect will running a lower base FP using an FPR have on the car? Isn't higher FP (as long as it's not over the injector tolerances) better?
I'm thinking about just getting another EEPROM programmed for 3 Bar of FP from JWT for a 1995 ECU....thereby solving the issue using a program and not mechanics.
IanS
What effect will running a lower base FP using an FPR have on the car? Isn't higher FP (as long as it's not over the injector tolerances) better?
I'm thinking about just getting another EEPROM programmed for 3 Bar of FP from JWT for a 1995 ECU....thereby solving the issue using a program and not mechanics.
IanS
It will lower your max FP at WOT unless you compensate with a FMU, therefore your max BHP will be lower, ie you'll have less fuel pressure head-room to work with.
Originally Posted by iansw
What effect will running a lower base FP using an FPR have on the car? Isn't higher FP (as long as it's not over the injector tolerances) better?
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
So - what you're telling me then - is to stick with the 40PSI base and get the EEPROM programmed for 3 Bar of fuel.
If 24 is base, then that really explains why I was running INSANELY rich - I was dumping a sh*tload of fuel into the engine because i was at 50PSI with the BOV vaccum disconnected....like I said.
If 24 is base, then that really explains why I was running INSANELY rich - I was dumping a sh*tload of fuel into the engine because i was at 50PSI with the BOV vaccum disconnected....like I said.
Originally Posted by slimer
do you have a fpr?
if you do then you can mechanically adjust it.
doesnt stephen have his cartech set to 1:1, cuz he wanted the adjustability?
if you do then you can mechanically adjust it.
doesnt stephen have his cartech set to 1:1, cuz he wanted the adjustability?
Ian,
A few comments.
1. 3 bar is ~45 psi, which is the standard pressure that injectors are designed for. Manifold vacuum helps pull fuel out of the injector, that is why fuel pressure at idle reduces to ~34 psi. The pressure differential across the injector is kept at 3 bar with a 1:1 oem fpr so that its flow characteristics don't change due to manifold vacuum (or pressure). So the 3 bar program is the standard JWT program and is probably what you already have, unless confused had it programmed differently.
2. I feel strongly that the 3.7V signal at idle coming from the Z32 maf is why you were running so rich. That is a very, very high signal, and if that is truly what the ecu was seeing, then it is no wonder it was dumping fuel into your engine. You have to determine what is causing that. Since the maf worked in schuss' car, then the maf is okay and it has to be a wiring problem.
3. Is your car running normally with the A32 maf and the JWT ecu you bought from brodaiga?
A few comments.
1. 3 bar is ~45 psi, which is the standard pressure that injectors are designed for. Manifold vacuum helps pull fuel out of the injector, that is why fuel pressure at idle reduces to ~34 psi. The pressure differential across the injector is kept at 3 bar with a 1:1 oem fpr so that its flow characteristics don't change due to manifold vacuum (or pressure). So the 3 bar program is the standard JWT program and is probably what you already have, unless confused had it programmed differently.
2. I feel strongly that the 3.7V signal at idle coming from the Z32 maf is why you were running so rich. That is a very, very high signal, and if that is truly what the ecu was seeing, then it is no wonder it was dumping fuel into your engine. You have to determine what is causing that. Since the maf worked in schuss' car, then the maf is okay and it has to be a wiring problem.
3. Is your car running normally with the A32 maf and the JWT ecu you bought from brodaiga?




