Ok, first off, I have had the newer engine in for a little over two months now....

Problem 1 and most important:

The car will start fine when cold and rive ok for a little. However, it will then start to act up. Sitting at idle it will be ok, but as soon as I start driving, say in second or third gear, and I am at about 15-20% throttle, the car will sound like it is mis-firing or something badly. More-so, when I give it gas to start boosting, it goes away immediately. After this, when at idle, say at an intersection, the car will just randomly cut off. It will then be almost impossible to start up again without giving it 50% throttle and getting it going immediately after it starts to sputter. And while doing this, the car will start lunging like it wants to cut off.

I checked all the exhaust pipes and EGR tubes, everything is fine. No CEL lights related to this problem either.

Problem 2:

Vacuum at idle......At idle, I will have HUGE varying vacuum readings depending on weather. On colder weather, I will have very decent vacuum at idle. However, when it gets warmer out, say around 85 like it has been recently, I will have 8 HG at idle, which plain sucks butt. All the hoses and everything are all zip-tied and secured, and again, the back of the manifold EGR tube is secure, so no leak there. Any ideas from you wll known boosted folk.....

 

Well, it certainly SEEMS like a vacuum leak. What is your reading on cold days?

If you can't find one, try finding a place with a "SMOKE-IT" detector - they run smoke through your system and that makes smoke come out of the vacuum leak, making it very easy to find.

Usually cost about $50 to have done.

 

Could be the MAF sensor doing screwy stuff, like Kirk's car was doing. All that trouble with vacuum and sheiot he was having and it turned out to be wiring/MAF related...

Just a thought.

 

Ian: Thanks, I will try to look around. But how does it found the very little minute little ones, such as 1/8" vacuum tubing and such?

Quick: However, he was throwing a MAF sensor code, mine is not. I am gonna get my hands on a 300zx MAF within the next few days and see what that sucker does. I am about to replace the plugs and fuel filter within the next few minutes and we will see what happens then....

 

Good luck, and keep us posted...

 

It will find them. I had a VERY small leak at my EGR tube maybe 1/10" of an inch across and it was blatantly obvious.

 

How are you a/f readings?

 

I would check the power wire into the maf....

If your NOT getting 11+ volts, that is the problem.

I was thinking MAF all the way. Your wires may have been damaged.

Get with dixit or jay and slap the OBD reader on there and see what it says.

 

Check your TPS... May need to be adjusted or replaced...

 

Ok guys, update......

Well, it turns out that both Quicksilver and Bags were right. The MAF was the culprit here.

When I built/installed the turbo kit, I had to lengthen the MAF wires to move the MAF closer to the engine. Well, I didn't crimp the wires tight enough in the solderless connectors. So, the wires would spin freely in the connectors. I actually cumped into this problem because as I was messing around with the piping while the car was at idle, I bumped the MAF and the car "hiccuped". I replicated the bump again and it did it again. So, I looked at the connectors and sure enough, they were bad. So I re-crimped them (this time I used a paid of vice-grips and crimped the whole connector) and SHA-BAM, the car is running like a champ now.

The vacuum problem has gotten much better and it will not go below 10 hG, which is great. So now I just have to pin-point the vacuum leak.

Thanks all for your help. You are truly an aid to me here.....

 

Great you fixed one problem Obviously someone doesnt want that brand new O2 sensor sitting in the box in my garage. Guess what? no more hook up, he quit thats all we needed.