This weekend I installed the Stillen V2 SC kit. I bought the kit used here on the .org a couple months ago. Firstly I want to thank WizzaMax, whom I bought the kit from, for hooking me up and helping me out with some questions and stuff. Secondly I found ptatohed's write-up extremely helpful. I can't thank him enough for writing that thing. Finally thanks to Bluesbrekr for putting up with my b!tching getting the thing in and giving me a hand. I've also found the forums very helpful and didn't even need to ask a question, all the info I needed I could find in stickies or by searching.

Here it is:

Sorry for the crappy pic, I took it at night with low lighting. Like no one has seen one before anyway...

I had some problems getting the plate lined up correctly. I could not get the lower flat head screw to thread in straight. I also think I didn't move the radiator hose clamp over enough and was hitting that for a while. I still ended up putting in just the two captured bolts, then the lower flathead, then the rest of the hardware. Hole 18 (small flat head into stand off) is a royal PITA, how bad is that bolt needed? Other than futzing with the plate alignment for a half a day, the install was fairly easy.

I'm mostly running a stock set-up: 3.6 pulley - Stillen filter (No CAI)…yet - Blitz DD BOV - Aux Fuel Pump - Steel Idlers.

I started it up and took it for a short drive last night, Everything appears to be working. My fuel pressure is going up under boost, but I can't be positive my aux pump is working. I can't here is working…. Haven't seen over 1200F on the EGT so I think I've been safe so far, but haven't really given er too hard yet. I want to get colder plugs in first. I plan to upgrade to a smaller pulley a little later, but want to get used to the set-up with a larger pulley first. I found myself banging er off the rev limiter in first last night before I knew what hit me. I'm such a boost newbie

 

So how does the power feel (Butt Dyno)? Do you think it was a worth while investment of time and money?

 

Sure do. I still have the stock pulley which most people don't. Even with that it does pull harder. It's nice to know I can get a smaller pulley if I want for even more later if I so desire. Since this is my first experience with FI, I decided start out mild and work my way up as I feel comfortable.

 

Glad you got the install finished, Eric. I was happy to help.

Now, I gotta get a ride in that beast! See ya this weekend....

 

Thanks again for your help Tom. Now we need to head out to the track one of these days

 

Good job Eric! I'm very happy for you. Stay safe and have fun.

 

I would also like to thank ptatohed. Even though i have a 5th gen i still appreciate the time and effort you putt in. It is people like you that make this such a resourceful site.

 

When you turn the key to the first stop (auxiliary?) before actually starting the engine you should hear the aux pump power up.

 

Maximum HP: I also run the 3.6 pulley, and i share your feeling regarding the fact that more power can be easily attained relatively cheap. Due to recent problems I don't think i am brave enough to take that step right now.

Enjoy the new found power!

 

Just order a Walbro Intake for 85$ and have one less thing to worry about, !! Fuel Delivery !!

-matt

 

If I order the pump do I need a regulator too to keep the pressure down. I thought I read on here that the base FP kicks up a bit with the Walbro. I basically had the same idea considering the pump is cheap, but if I need a regulator, then it becomes a more costly operation

 

It should be loud enough to hear easily, correct?

 

Oh yeah! Just have your drivers side door open, turn the key to the first stop and, unless you're in a noisy area, you should hear it power up. You can hear it better in your garage with the hood up.

Btw congrats on getting the V2!

I just noticed your engine cover is missing...

 

Thanks man, I'll have to take a good look at it tonight. If I don't hear something I may just put power too it to make sure it's working and hear it first hand so I know what it sounds like.

Since I can't get the engine cover off with the pressure pipe installed, I left it off for now. I need to replace my plugs yet with one step colder. Getting those spacers in is another PITA. I ended up duct taping them to the pressure pipe so I can put the whole thing in as a unit, that is much easier...

 

The aux fuel pump will do a short Bzzzztt! upon startup.

Yep, those spacers for the pressure pipe are a pain. I only got one in. The other one I didn't bother but I could have just stuck some masking tape on a stick and position it in place.

 

I don't see why Stillen didn't just make the feet longer or weld those on. But seriously, I just wraped duct tape around them and poked holes where the screws go though. It makes it's a ton easier.

 

Congratulations on your new setup! How long did it take you to install? I noticed you saying the car feels faster, is it a put you in the seat kind of power or something you feel slightly in your back? Enjoy The Ride!!!

 

Thanks abradic. If I didn't have the alignment issues I was experiencing, and felt like spending a whole day, I could have done it in one day probably. After dealing with the problem I was a bit aggravated and decided to stop for the day to have some beers. I started on a Saturday late morning, spent only a couple hours on Sunday, then finished on Monday after work. I took my time since I have another car, letting it sit in the garage was not a big deal, or I could have easily finished on Sunday (Didn't feel to good on Sunday due to Saturday nights activities)

Mine was a used kit so there is some factor of finding what goes where and some things I replaced weather they need to be or not. I spent a lot of time learning the install process from ptatohed's directions, and organizing parts to be sure I had everything including the things I wanted to replace. Like for example getting a new fuel filter, or replace the oil drainback hose that had a small hole in it. Your down there anyway so might as well change what you can. You can waste a lot of time running around getting bolts and stuff like that if your not prepared, especially with a used kit.

With my learning's I'm guessing I could take the plate off, replace the belt or pulley and put it back on in 3-4 hours. One bolt (hole 18) is the big bottle neck.

In general I would say the install is really easy with the proper instructions. Easily a weekend job if you are reasonably mechanically inclined.

 

How much was that Drain Back Hose ?? I think Stillen sells them for $55
I am too in the same boat but with a V1, No alignment problems with the plate so I heard. I have to peice together a few things but I will do that when I have the kit layed out in my garage ready for install..(i just had surgary so I need to recover before install begins)
I just got the Walbro in the mial and I need to still order a few things from Stillen

-matt

 

A tip I learned from WizzaMax:
The drain back hose is really just a Nissan Crank case vent hose. I bought the part from a local Nissan dealer for less than half the cost of Stillens, and it works perfect. I'll see if I can find the website that states this for proof.

 

Here's a link to jdmmax's webpage:

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/369835/3

Just need to cut a little off the hose and your good to go

 

Can the breather tube withstand Oil flow, and not to mention the hot temps from the Oil ??

-matt

 

Well, went for my first drive tonight and it wasn't pretty. I ended up shredding a belt after the first WOT run, then noticed the Air conditioner tube was rubbing on the pulley despite my efforts to keep it away from there. So all my air conditioner gas is probably long gone.

I don't know why my belt shredded, doesn't look misaligned to me or anything

 

Yeah my belt shreaded a few weeks ago. I just went through an ordeal to get the stock belts back on. Let me know how it works out with getting the your setup back together.

 

How does one determine if they have an alignment problem?

 

Good news on the SC

Bad news on the belt

 

I think you have already determined that.

When I installed Kenneth's SC, he had an alignment problem that forced the belt off the alternator pulley, away from the engine. This was with a V1 kit, which normally does not have alignment problems, but the seller had provided a new idler pulley off a V2 kit (which was different from the pulley on my V1 kit). The idler pulley is just above the alternator pulley, so I figured the alignment problem was due to the new idler pulley (duh!). I took a die grinder and ground about .060-.080" of material off the boss that the idler pulley bolts into and viola! Perfect alignment. It didn't take much material removal to get it right.

Anyway, I'm telling you this story because you are going to have to determine what is causing your alignment problem, and once you have determined the cause you can take appropriate action.

 

The Walbro high pressure pump will raise base fuel pressure about 6 psi. That is really not enough to worry about. At least it wasn't for me. My car ran perfectly with the high fuel pressure. If it is a problem, you adjust it downward with an adjustable fpr, like you say.

 

Thanks for your help Steve.

I swear I can see the SC pulley is too far to the engine side. It's almost like I can see the belt is pulled towards the engine side. Last night I was searching and found the S/C alignment thread, and was thinking I might try spacing out my blower. Sound like a good idea? I'm just wondering if I do that, what spacers do I use, just any old washers?. Since two different size bolts are used to hold the blower to the plate, some mounts must have no spacers, is that good?

On a side note, Kinda OT but does anyone know if you can buy the gas that goes in the AC system, or does a dealer have to repair that little oops. I wouldn't mind trying to re-route that or use all flexible hose if I need to replace it. That d@mn thing is just in the way of everything.

 

You can buy the R134 at NAPA. It is very simple, clip the hose onto the tip. Then turn the **** on top of the can to break the seal on the can. Turn on your car and your AC to full and vola your done.

 

My a/c tube is zip tied away from the pulley. Unfortunately it also suffered a cut from the rubbing.

 

Thanks guys.
Well that's good news at least that I can repair that myself fairly easy. Now just to find out how much Nissan is going to r@pe me for a new hose...

I had mine zip tied, but not enough apparently. I think I am going to fabricate a bracket that keeps it away from both the pulley and the FSTB.

Going to check out what kinda selection I can find for spacing the blower out at lunch. Hope they don't expect me to work while I'm at work this week

 

Just in case anybody gives a cr@p, I found some machine bushings (basically look like washers) at the hardware store. They come in thicknesses such as 18ga 16ga etc. They will be more dimensionally accurate than washers and come in different diameters with the same thickness. They should work perfect provided that is my problem.

 

Most people just bend the AC line upwards and away from the pulley until the metal portion of the line takes a permanent set. Not too elegant, but effective.

 

how i test mine is i disconnect the power from the aux fpr while the car is running. if the aux pump is working correctly it will shut the car off from lack of fuel. it works for me.

 

Stephen Max,

Big Question !! On the one and only bottom Pulley on the V1 Kit, I have the pulley, a Spacer, and the bolt. Does the pulley lay right against the raise hole on the V1 Plate then the spacer than the 19mm Bolt ?? or does it go raised hole, spacer, Pulley, 19mm Bolt ??

The spacer is big on one side and small on the other...

BTW: The pulley sais "Fenner Drives USA" on it

-matt

 

The short answer is I don't know. My kit arrived with the pulley installed, and I never took it off to look at it. You are talking about idler pulley and not the belt tensioner pulley, right?

 

Yeah I was just worried about over doing it and kinking that pipe or something. Guess I just need to grow some ***** and force that sucker where I want it.


Last night I took the vacuum line off the Hobbs switch and blew into it to simulate boost with the engine running, and the pump kicks on, while the FP gauge kicks up a bit. It appears to be working, but is not that loud so I hope it's working correctly. I did see quite a bit of fuel pressure before my belt shred (around 60psi), and my EGT has not spiked up high, so I think I'm OK. I think I will just get a Walbro for the piece of mind anyway so I can worry about other gauges instead. And/or do the Hobb switch mod so the pump is on all the time.

 

Its the only pulley thats on the V1 Mounting Plate and right below the blower ??

The only real question I have is where that spacer goes, ON the outside of the INSIDE of the pulley ?? I believe it goes on the outside of the pulley..hmmm

-matt

 

sorry to piggyback on your thread, but I need this questions somehow answered about the pulley and that main spacer ??
and when the Main S/C pulley goes on does the Vortech writing go towards the blower or towards the engine ??

-matt