Need pics of 5th Gen S/C Piping/Underhood
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
Need pics of 5th Gen S/C Piping/Underhood
Trying to prototype piping for my 4th Gen where the MAF is on the non-charged side.
I think the 5th Gen S/C piping would be a good way to start.
If you have any pics of the 5th Gen SC Piping out of the car, that would be perfect.
If you have any underhood shots, that would work well also.
Thanks!
IanS
I think the 5th Gen S/C piping would be a good way to start.
If you have any pics of the 5th Gen SC Piping out of the car, that would be perfect.
If you have any underhood shots, that would work well also.
Thanks!
IanS
Hey sorry I was out of town on business and was not able to discuss anything further with you.
I do have pics of all my pipes.
I was supposed to host them with Delio, but I could not get connected to his site to upload my pics. I will shoot him an email. I have like 30MB of pics so far.
ALso my PM box is at like 94, so lets use here or email! :>
I do have pics of all my pipes.
I was supposed to host them with Delio, but I could not get connected to his site to upload my pics. I will shoot him an email. I have like 30MB of pics so far.
ALso my PM box is at like 94, so lets use here or email! :>
Originally Posted by iansw
E-Mail sent - did you get my last PM/E-Mail about "borrowing" your piping?
I think my yahoo email is not working correctly, it seems I do not get the messages people send sometimes.
DId you get my message Delio?
no it works... for sure it works. The question is what did I do that made it work. In typical Delio fashin I did 15 things in one day... now to isolate them and see what had the desired impact.
Originally Posted by delio
no it works... for sure it works. The question is what did I do that made it work. In typical Delio fashin I did 15 things in one day... now to isolate them and see what had the desired impact.
hahaha.. I do the same thing.
Please let us know when you do isolate it.
Thank you
And congrats
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
Man - I was totally psyched to read a solution.....
Well - until I hear of the solution, I'm going on with getting the new piping made.
Prodeje - we'll just have new intake piping made for you. You do have the full 5th Gen piping, correct (non-charged and charged-side piping?)
I'm not getting E-Mails from Maxima.org either lately - I'll try and remember to check this thread out more often.

Well - until I hear of the solution, I'm going on with getting the new piping made.
Prodeje - we'll just have new intake piping made for you. You do have the full 5th Gen piping, correct (non-charged and charged-side piping?)
I'm not getting E-Mails from Maxima.org either lately - I'll try and remember to check this thread out more often.
Originally Posted by delio
Ian... how did you have your MAF wired up? Please be uber specific.
Stephen, I think that is the missing link here... hence the question I posed to Ian... I noticed my second ground wire was not attached in the harness I had made, one of the things I did when I got this working was to make sure I grounded that wire, all of a sudden, no problems. So I am wondering if it was as simple as the ground wire. Rest assured, the car runs damn solid right now. Only problem I have right now is that the damn fans won't turn on, that's another thread though.
Originally Posted by iansw
Man - I was totally psyched to read a solution.....
Well - until I hear of the solution, I'm going on with getting the new piping made.
Prodeje - we'll just have new intake piping made for you. You do have the full 5th Gen piping, correct (non-charged and charged-side piping?)
I'm not getting E-Mails from Maxima.org either lately - I'll try and remember to check this thread out more often.

Well - until I hear of the solution, I'm going on with getting the new piping made.
Prodeje - we'll just have new intake piping made for you. You do have the full 5th Gen piping, correct (non-charged and charged-side piping?)
I'm not getting E-Mails from Maxima.org either lately - I'll try and remember to check this thread out more often.
Any idea on price? You can email me at prod_spam AT yahoo.com as I do not think the org button works?
So I would just send all my 5th gen pipes and home made 4th gen one?
I think everything is already boxed up from Jaime, or did I not send ALL my pipes? I will have to check as I have not been to my parents house where I keep everything since my JWT and pipes arrived back. :P
Delio : Will you email me how/where to UL to the site?
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
Basically we will take the 5th Gen piping and make it work on a 4th Gen.
is there a reason you want to keep the custom 4th Gen Intake piping you have now? (Is it 3" or ceramic coated or something?)
My plan is to prototype an entirely new set of piping based on the 5th Gen piping as a template. Charged and non-charged side.
Anyway - mail sent to prod_spam@yahoo.com
IanS
is there a reason you want to keep the custom 4th Gen Intake piping you have now? (Is it 3" or ceramic coated or something?)
My plan is to prototype an entirely new set of piping based on the 5th Gen piping as a template. Charged and non-charged side.
Anyway - mail sent to prod_spam@yahoo.com
IanS
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
Originally Posted by delio
Stephen, I think that is the missing link here... hence the question I posed to Ian... I noticed my second ground wire was not attached in the harness I had made, one of the things I did when I got this working was to make sure I grounded that wire, all of a sudden, no problems. So I am wondering if it was as simple as the ground wire. Rest assured, the car runs damn solid right now. Only problem I have right now is that the damn fans won't turn on, that's another thread though.
I have the brown wire from the Tomei connector going to the chassis. Is that what you mean? I have that connected.
Originally Posted by iansw
Basically we will take the 5th Gen piping and make it work on a 4th Gen.
is there a reason you want to keep the custom 4th Gen Intake piping you have now? (Is it 3" or ceramic coated or something?)
My plan is to prototype an entirely new set of piping based on the 5th Gen piping as a template. Charged and non-charged side.
Anyway - mail sent to prod_spam@yahoo.com
IanS
is there a reason you want to keep the custom 4th Gen Intake piping you have now? (Is it 3" or ceramic coated or something?)
My plan is to prototype an entirely new set of piping based on the 5th Gen piping as a template. Charged and non-charged side.
Anyway - mail sent to prod_spam@yahoo.com
IanS
I have the homemade 4th gen charge pipe and no 4th gen intake pipe.
I did want to keep my 5th gen pipes intact so if I sell my kit to go turbo someday, it might be easier :>
I have about 30mb of pics of my engine bay and my pipes on a CDROM at home, Ill email you them later.
gotta run!
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
delio -
Here is my wiring:
Pin 1 - White on Tomei Connector to 0-5v signal (white/green) from A32 MAF Connector. - measures about 1.2V when car is idling - raises with RPM.
Pin 2 - Brown on Tomei connector - going to ground point on engine block. measures -12v when voltmeter is on + battery post. (thereby indicating a good ground)
Pin 3 - Ground - going to original (black) A32 MAF ground wire - measures -12v when voltmeter is on + battery post. (thereby indicating a good ground)
Pin 4 - Black/white on Tomei connector - +12v (red) A32 MAF wire. Measures +13v when car is idling.
So in quick conclusion
White to green/white on A32 Connector
Brown to Engine Block ground point
Black to Black on A32 Connector
Black/White to Red on A32 Connector
Here is my wiring:
Pin 1 - White on Tomei Connector to 0-5v signal (white/green) from A32 MAF Connector. - measures about 1.2V when car is idling - raises with RPM.
Pin 2 - Brown on Tomei connector - going to ground point on engine block. measures -12v when voltmeter is on + battery post. (thereby indicating a good ground)
Pin 3 - Ground - going to original (black) A32 MAF ground wire - measures -12v when voltmeter is on + battery post. (thereby indicating a good ground)
Pin 4 - Black/white on Tomei connector - +12v (red) A32 MAF wire. Measures +13v when car is idling.
So in quick conclusion
White to green/white on A32 Connector
Brown to Engine Block ground point
Black to Black on A32 Connector
Black/White to Red on A32 Connector
Ian do you have time to try and reverse the grounds?
Mike, my domain is currently down while it is switched to a new server. As soon as it is up, I will get you all your info.
Mike, my domain is currently down while it is switched to a new server. As soon as it is up, I will get you all your info.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
Car isn't really in running condition right now - http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=318996 - and I'd have to drive it about 10 miles to get my MAF from my buddy's garage.
I'll be removing my tranny and re-installing it next weekend, but have to work graveyard this weekend, so it will have to wait over a week.
Are your grounds reversed (black on engine, brown on ECU Ground)?
How is your set up exactly and specifically?
IanS
I'll be removing my tranny and re-installing it next weekend, but have to work graveyard this weekend, so it will have to wait over a week.
Are your grounds reversed (black on engine, brown on ECU Ground)?
How is your set up exactly and specifically?
IanS
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
Tranny it turns out is OK - what I was hearing is normal for a 6-puck clutchnet clutch apparently.
So I may (assuming the wife doesn't have a list of crap for me to do) have time to try again this weekend.
delio - again - are your grounds reversed from what mine are? (black wire to chassis, brown to stock harness)?
IanS
So I may (assuming the wife doesn't have a list of crap for me to do) have time to try again this weekend.
delio - again - are your grounds reversed from what mine are? (black wire to chassis, brown to stock harness)?
IanS
Originally Posted by iansw
OK - one more bump - then I'm letting it drop.
Anyway, I have the Tomei connector, and on my car the brown wire that connects to pin C on the maf is the one that goes to a grounding location on the engine. The black wire from pin D goes to ecu ground.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
Then I am hooked up correctly - I am wired exactly as you stated above, Stephen. And sitll not getting it to work right.
Unless delio replies with something else, there's no point in me messing with my wiring, since it's obviously correct as far as grounding goes. And we figured out that it is now correct for the signal and +12v as well in that other thread.
Delio - is there ANYTHING else you did that day that could be the fix?
IanS
Unless delio replies with something else, there's no point in me messing with my wiring, since it's obviously correct as far as grounding goes. And we figured out that it is now correct for the signal and +12v as well in that other thread.
Delio - is there ANYTHING else you did that day that could be the fix?
IanS
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
OK - I read it - I'm pretty sure my wiring is correct going off what Stephen said above.
You know - I just realized that my belt was slipping pretty bad when I last tested it....I have since fixed that but haven't tried again. I wonder if the drop in pressure I was seeing above 4k RPM could have something to do with it.
Comments?
IanS
You know - I just realized that my belt was slipping pretty bad when I last tested it....I have since fixed that but haven't tried again. I wonder if the drop in pressure I was seeing above 4k RPM could have something to do with it.
Comments?
IanS
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
I threw the Z32 EEPROM back in today and put the Z32 MAF on.
Last time I did this, it ran perfectly until I hit 3500-4000 RPM and then it would bog. Well, this time it idled like crap and acted a lot like the way a car acts with no MAF signal.
Checked the AFC voltage check function - 1.2v-1.4v at idle - exactly like before.
I did notice however that the A32 MAF is .95-1.0v at idle, and the Z32 is 1.2-1.4v....interesting
Is there a possibility that the EEPROM for the Z32 I have is not set for the 40-PSI I am running now? I thought the ECU controlled Fuel Pressure.
. It probably means nothing.
Anyway - The MAF is giving a signal....
Checked to be sure with a voltmeter and got the correct results.
Finally, I got so frustrated I just put everything back to the A32 setup and stopped working on it.
Last time I did this, it ran perfectly until I hit 3500-4000 RPM and then it would bog. Well, this time it idled like crap and acted a lot like the way a car acts with no MAF signal.
Checked the AFC voltage check function - 1.2v-1.4v at idle - exactly like before.
I did notice however that the A32 MAF is .95-1.0v at idle, and the Z32 is 1.2-1.4v....interesting
Is there a possibility that the EEPROM for the Z32 I have is not set for the 40-PSI I am running now? I thought the ECU controlled Fuel Pressure.
. It probably means nothing.Anyway - The MAF is giving a signal....
Checked to be sure with a voltmeter and got the correct results.
Finally, I got so frustrated I just put everything back to the A32 setup and stopped working on it.
Originally Posted by iansw
I threw the Z32 EEPROM back in today and put the Z32 MAF on.
Last time I did this, it ran perfectly until I hit 3500-4000 RPM and then it would bog. Well, this time it idled like crap and acted a lot like the way a car acts with no MAF signal.
Checked the AFC voltage check function - 1.2v-1.4v at idle - exactly like before.
I did notice however that the A32 MAF is .95-1.0v at idle, and the Z32 is 1.2-1.4v....interesting
Is there a possibility that the EEPROM for the Z32 I have is not set for the 40-PSI I am running now? I thought the ECU controlled Fuel Pressure.
. It probably means nothing.
Anyway - The MAF is giving a signal....
Checked to be sure with a voltmeter and got the correct results.
Finally, I got so frustrated I just put everything back to the A32 setup and stopped working on it.

Last time I did this, it ran perfectly until I hit 3500-4000 RPM and then it would bog. Well, this time it idled like crap and acted a lot like the way a car acts with no MAF signal.
Checked the AFC voltage check function - 1.2v-1.4v at idle - exactly like before.
I did notice however that the A32 MAF is .95-1.0v at idle, and the Z32 is 1.2-1.4v....interesting
Is there a possibility that the EEPROM for the Z32 I have is not set for the 40-PSI I am running now? I thought the ECU controlled Fuel Pressure.
. It probably means nothing.Anyway - The MAF is giving a signal....
Checked to be sure with a voltmeter and got the correct results.
Finally, I got so frustrated I just put everything back to the A32 setup and stopped working on it.

I forget, are you using an fmu or an adjustable fpr at all now?
Per Ben at JWT the fuel pressure should be at 43.5 PSI with the vacuum line removed.
I forget what the base should be at idle with the vacuum line attached. 34 psi maybe? The search function is not working for me now. :<
I forget what the base should be at idle with the vacuum line attached. 34 psi maybe? The search function is not working for me now. :<
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
Mines at 40PSI with the JWT A32 MAF ECU and runs fine.
43PSI with the Z32 MAf and Z32 JWT ECU. Car runs like ***.
Vacuum is steady at 20Hg in both cases - no vacuum leaks/disconnected FPR's.

43PSI with the Z32 MAf and Z32 JWT ECU. Car runs like ***.
Vacuum is steady at 20Hg in both cases - no vacuum leaks/disconnected FPR's.

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