MaXtUneD

iTrader: (2)

I just got my t3/60-1 turbo put in a while ago...the car was tuned with the smaller turbo i had before..do I have to retune it again with the bigger turbo??Im assuming so....
but the problem is last night, i was boosting 5-6psi, i wasnt flooring it, if i did it would of been to 8psi since thats my max...first gear was fine prolly up to 6 rpm.., but when i put it in second, and boosted 5 psi, the car felt like it cut off fuel for a second than ran fine for a couple more seconds, then felt like the fuel cut off again for a second..

Does this have anything to do with timing, because i thought the ecu would retard the timing???
Before i was boosted, i advanced the cam position sensor, but stupid me, i forgot to mark the original settings..so I moved back the sensor to what i believe is the original spot..maybe ill have my bro check that out for me....

Im running the walbro 255 pump with cartech FMU...My other thought is the injectors..they are stock..everything is stock...and also the maf, i thought maxed out around 240hp from what i read...

let me know what you guys think...

Julio

2 things first off: The shop that put in your turbo should have set your timing for you. If they didnt, I wouldn't go there anymore, because that means they dont know what they are doing. A good shop should always set timing no matter what when boosting a car. My timing is at 13*BTDC

Secondly, you need to swap out your FMU disk to accomodate your newer, bigger turbo. The FMU needs to push more fuel for the more air you turbo provides.

I am not sure if these are your problems, but you should definitely make sure these 2 items are the way they should be.

MaXtUneD

iTrader: (2)

ok thanks..anymore info would be helpful and great....

turbomax97

iTrader: (6)

well then, disregard what julio said about discs. The cartech - as i'm sure u know - doesnt use discs hehe... just use the bleeder valve to increase fuel press.

subs1000w

well even if the maf was maxed out it doesnt matter because the cartec was still providing plenty of fuel

just thinking here but if you were runing 8psi on the old turbo and your still running 8psi on the new turbo your not really getting any more air since you havnt upd the boost so your tuning should still be fine although id still take it to the dyno and check to be on the safe side

the hesistation is proboly the famouse VE problem. my VE had it and lots of others have/had it. mine and a fellow VEer was corrected with new coil packs but some have tryed that and it didnt fix the heisitation/stalling problem you can find alot more info on that in the 3rd gen section if you can search

Julio

LOL, I was wondering if the cartech was the same setup as a vortech unit. I was too lazy to check up on it before I posted, serves me right. But as it goes, he didnt dyno, which means that the people probably didnt mess with the cartech, and thus should be tuned regardless. Considering that his turbo was a 46 trim TO4E, and he now has a 60-1, which flows 20% more air psi for psi than a 60 trim TO4E. That is a lot more air than he was running before. If it were me, i wouldn't drive it unless it was on a dyno and was sure that it was running well. Going from that little turbo that made only 25Xish hp at 10 psi, and now runs a turbo where some 4th gen guys are making 300 at 7 psi, and 400 at 10, there is a big difference in air flow. Maybe they did turn up the fuel, but I wouldn't trust a shop regardless unless they had an exceptional reputation, even then I wouldn't fully.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

I ran my setup on a totally stock fuel system and it didn't run odd. Just lean. LOL.
I strongly suggest you get out your timing gun and set the timing back to stock or even less than stock for safety.
But I don't think that is the source of your problem. If you have a spare maf lying around, thow it in and see what happens.
My car will buck like someone turned off the ign right at 2,200 rpm every once in a blue moon. Irritating

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

T3/60-1?!?!?! Someone didn't do their homework and that shop should be for putting that combo on a 3L V6. They must be used to super high boosted Civics.

What size housing AR does that turbine have?

Shadow

iTrader: (15)

What's the problem w/ running that combo on a Maxima? It's the same turbo I use. I'm running 7 psi on it right now, 301 whp, 314 lb/ft. I see full boost right around 3200 or so at full throttle. .81 AR on the hot side, and I'm not seeing any flow problems on the high end due to sizing issues.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Depending on wheel size it's very inefficient, ie heats up the air, due to slip losses with that big of a compressor and that small of a turbine. You'd have a much more efficient turbo AND better spool with a T4 turbine.

With the .81 AR you're not choking too much probably, but with typical small T3 ARs, you would..that's why I asked. At 7psi, you're probably not going to see near the point where the slip loses between the two wheels begin to cause a rapid drop off of efficiency. I'd say 10psi or above and you'd be rapidly falling.

If you get a chance, you might try dynoing a T4 turbine. I have some info at home I'll try and dig up that compares that combo. If I can find it, I'll post it.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

BTW, was 301whp SAE corrected? If so, what CF was that using?

Shadow

iTrader: (15)

It is SAE corrected, I'll have to pull up the dyno sheet to see what the correction factor was, but it's not significant.

https://maxima.org/forums/off-topic/322287-you-can-have-my-pr0n-when-you-pry-my-cold-dead-fingers.html

That's the link to the dyno chart.

I went w/ the hybrid simply because I'm not impressed w/ the spool times of T4 equipped Maximas. Especially w/ the auto, spool was a big factor. I'm aware of the slip loss issue, but after a lot of discussion with my tuner and other people with experience w/ turbos, I decided to go with this combo. It's why I chose the larger AR. We'll find out next month if power drops off above 10 psi after I get the E01. As it is, I'm happy with the setup and the level of power it makes.

MaXtUneD

iTrader: (2)

http://store.yahoo.com/cheapturbo/gart3w63artu.html

thats the turbo i got....

subs1000w

althought its an ok turbo it may not be perfectly matched to the max since theres no way you need a turbo that flows 61 lbs/min

at what rpm do you see full boost in 3rd. i would amagine it spools fairly quick even with the oversized .70A/R compressor housing

Julio

You'd have a much more efficient turbo AND better spool with a T4 turbine.

Its not a T4 turbine by the way. He means to say.82 a/r, not .81 a/r, meaning it is a t3 turbine. That was the point of his arguement. I am not sure if you mean to type T3 turbine though....

subs1000w

accually a T4 turbine will spool slower than a T3 but in the high rpm it will be more efficient and that means produce more power. but remember if you go to big on the turbine it will spool way to late or it may never even spool to full boost. i believe mardigrasmax was complianing about not being able to go above 15psi with his .81 T4 so he went to a .58. but i think a .58 T4 is still bigger than a .63 T3

Julio

The first part of that post was a quote from Icy, not a statement from me. But now that i see what he wrote, I think by better spool, he meant later spooling for better traction.

iansw

iTrader: (7)

Interesting - I get the exact same symptoms when I have my Z32 MAF on the charged side. (with a JWT Program, not FMU)

3500-4500RPM it freaks out like it's not getting fuel Put the stock MAF/Non Z32 ECU program back in and it runs fine (although slightly lean at high RPM because of the MAF being maxed)

Probably not related - but interesting that it's the same symptoms.

Also when it does this the fuel pressure is good and constant. Can't detect any fluctuations in MAF voltage either beyond the normal ramp.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

No...I meant what I said...a T4 would spool quicker with that wheel combination.

Yes, a T4 would have more inertia then a T3, however the T4 in this case would be more efficient PLUS the slip losses of the T3 wheel to 60-1 wheel would be greater then the T4s additional inertia. So, that's a DOUBLE penalty.

It is a common mistake MANY shops that cater to small super high boost 4cyl cars make, but it has become a general rule that you want to keep the compressor to turbine wheel major diameter within 15% of each other for the best balance of spoolup and top-end flow.

Also, Garrett has proven a 2% increase in turbine efficiency, ie T3-->T4 wheels, would have equivalent spoolup as a 25% reduction in inertia. So, although the T3 has less inertia, the T4s ability to work more efficiently would overcome that extra inertia of the larger wheel.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Can you describe the noise from the turbo?

Was is chirping/thumping or "whew whew whew" sound by chance?

DA-MAX

iTrader: (10)

yup, as far as autos go, I agree with that 100%

Julio

Does a stage 5 wheel still produce slip losses? I cant find the diameter of the turbine wheel. Also, do you know of a site where is can explain the differences in the O, P, and Q trim wheels of a t4 turbine housing?