Supercharged/Turbocharged The increase in air/fuel pressure above atmospheric pressure in the intake system caused by the action of a supercharger or turbocharger attached to an engine.

starting issue/stalling issue

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Old 08-02-2004, 11:27 PM
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starting issue/stalling issue

My stalling issue is still ongoing - I tried something today; I revved up with my hand on the outlet of the bov so no air would get out, and it still stalled when i let off. I was under the impression that the stalling is because the bov lets out metered air, causing super richness thereby stalling the car. Any thoughts?


Starting issue:

It takes many cranks to get the car started - if i recall correctly, we should have 43 psi of fuel press with the key in the on position. I have 18-20. My adjusting screw for my aem fpr is missing, and if i dont put my finger over the hole for this screw, the press. doesnt go up accordingly with the decrease in vacuum.

Also, car gets really boggy @ 3k rpms when the engine is sorta cold, but its fine after it warms up - the idle is just hell though; it feels like there's either quite a bit of misfiring, or its running realllly rich.I'm gueesing this is the main reason my car gets so boggy on a cold start and at lower rpms in general. I think the ecu is compensating via readings from the sensors once the car is started.

Another note: My oem fpr vacuum line is t'd with a 5 way valve to the hks bov, the cartech fmu, the aem fpr and the boost gauge.... is this too many gadgets off one line?
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Old 08-03-2004, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by seximagtr
My stalling issue is still ongoing - I tried something today; I revved up with my hand on the outlet of the bov so no air would get out, and it still stalled when i let off. I was under the impression that the stalling is because the bov lets out metered air, causing super richness thereby stalling the car. Any thoughts?


Starting issue:

It takes many cranks to get the car started - if i recall correctly, we should have 43 psi of fuel press with the key in the on position. I have 18-20. My adjusting screw for my aem fpr is missing, and if i dont put my finger over the hole for this screw, the press. doesnt go up accordingly with the decrease in vacuum.

Also, car gets really boggy @ 3k rpms when the engine is sorta cold, but its fine after it warms up - the idle is just hell though; it feels like there's either quite a bit of misfiring, or its running realllly rich.I'm gueesing this is the main reason my car gets so boggy on a cold start and at lower rpms in general. I think the ecu is compensating via readings from the sensors once the car is started.

Another note: My oem fpr vacuum line is t'd with a 5 way valve to the hks bov, the cartech fmu, the aem fpr and the boost gauge.... is this too many gadgets off one line?
I think the Cartech fmu really should have its own vacuum source, rather than being teed into the other lines. The reason is that if you use the bleeder valve to leak off boost, then the vacuum while not boosting is also going to be lower (i.e. closer to zero). This may affect operation of the fpr. It will also affect the boost gauge, and you will see less boost pressure and less vacuum at idle than what you are actually getting.

Back to your stalling and starting problems. A low fuel pressure with key on before starting may be due to a leaky injector, which would explain some of your other symptoms, too.
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Old 08-03-2004, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by seximagtr
My stalling issue is still ongoing - I tried something today; I revved up with my hand on the outlet of the bov so no air would get out, and it still stalled when i let off. I was under the impression that the stalling is because the bov lets out metered air, causing super richness thereby stalling the car. Any thoughts?
Your maf is on the intake side of the turbo. Your BOV is on the charge side. When you let off off the gas, the BOV puts air into the atmosphere. When you put your hand on the BOV it goes back to your turbo, VERY BAD!!! It can't go through the turbo and back into the MAF. The recirc. valve, that poeple add, takes the air out of the BOV and puts in back in on the intake side where the MAF is.

Make sense?
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Old 08-05-2004, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by seximagtr
My stalling issue is still ongoing - I tried something today; I revved up with my hand on the outlet of the bov so no air would get out, and it still stalled when i let off. I was under the impression that the stalling is because the bov lets out metered air, causing super richness thereby stalling the car. Any thoughts?


Starting issue:

It takes many cranks to get the car started - if i recall correctly, we should have 43 psi of fuel press with the key in the on position. I have 18-20. My adjusting screw for my aem fpr is missing, and if i dont put my finger over the hole for this screw, the press. doesnt go up accordingly with the decrease in vacuum.

Also, car gets really boggy @ 3k rpms when the engine is sorta cold, but its fine after it warms up - the idle is just hell though; it feels like there's either quite a bit of misfiring, or its running realllly rich.I'm gueesing this is the main reason my car gets so boggy on a cold start and at lower rpms in general. I think the ecu is compensating via readings from the sensors once the car is started.

Another note: My oem fpr vacuum line is t'd with a 5 way valve to the hks bov, the cartech fmu, the aem fpr and the boost gauge.... is this too many gadgets off one line?

you have what? the 550s or 370's? you got an emanage why dont you hook it up to a laptop install the injector harness and that will def solve that issue your having with richness. This particular setup I had. I did not like it at all. I installled my stock FPR went into the Emanage screen, typed in 240 to 370s. That right there solved the fuel issue. I have no adjustable FPR anymore. Just a regular Vortech FMU.
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