pawnstar12

i finally got off my @ss and decided to install:

z32TT fuel filter
new NGK Coppers gapped @ .33
370's
wepon r fuel pressure regulator
new alternator
oil catch can
z32 maf

well after fighting with that damn egr valve in the rear on the manifold. i thought i did a pretty good job on putting every thing back the way it was . well now it was the time of truth, time to crank the car. NO JOY! even though i primed the pump a couple of times, it still didnt turn over. well it would help if the adjustable fpr wasnt set at practically 0 psi so after messing with it the car finally turned over. but there was a crazy amount of white smoke coming from the exhaust so i later figured it out i had the fpr on backwards. smart me!!!

now the stock maf is on the car. and when i try to rev the car pass 3grand and it spudders like it was on fuel cut...what sensors would make the car do that? can it be a fuel issue im not sure i have the fmu and the fpr hooked up correctly and i cant find the cartech fmu diagram .

my fuel system is hooked up like this:

tank----fuel filter----fuel rail----adj fpr-----bent barb on the cartech fmu----tank the fuel pressure gauge sensor is in between the fpr and the fmu (its always been there since i had the turbo put on




my fuel pressure is at 20 psi at idle
and the car smokes less when my safc2 correction is at -7 at idle

any ideas what it is?

KMax2988

I can tell you that after my 370 install the car started up right away and ran just fine (no smoke or nothing). Even had the FPR vacuum line unplugged but now I am running around 27-30psi idle. I would say your problem sounds more like it has something to do with the MAF in this situation fome the smoke and fuel cut (although I am not farmiliar with the cartech fmu's fuel line routing). Hope this helps

matty

iTrader: (54)

20 psi at idle is too low...should be up around 34-36...

-matt

hlh0501

iTrader: (1)

Sounds exactly like the symptoms of MAF not being connected properly. I had a wire come loose on my MAF, and it was like the car received a 2500 or 3000rpm (I forget which) two step. Check your wires, MAF, etc over again?

side note: 2500/3000rpm rev limiter = building boost in neutral

pawnstar12

before i installed the 370s i was dyno tuned and i was at 20psi at idle. i was tuned 10:1 practically the whole way. fuel efficiency and power were my goals. i never had white smoke like i did now.

pawnstar12

thanks i will. im going to wire the z32 maf today
the pin out is:

a32 to z32
a to a
b to b & c
c to e

am i correct?

stephenlc

iTrader: (1)

updates, I wanted to see what rpm you get full boost with that t70 or whatever it is called. I think you are the only automatic with 3 inch downpipe also.

pawnstar12

i found a broken maf wire under some e-tape, but the car almost doesnt idle it sounds like its drowning, and white smoke is flowing like no joke!!!! i think my fuel pressure gauge that has been hooked up between the FMU and the fuel tank is giving me invalid readings. so im relocating the sensor to the fpr.
im thinking that i sould be adjusting the top bolt on my cartech fmu also (there are two adjustments, a set screw and the vacume/fuel pressure adjustment ****) im thinking that the set screw adjusts when the fmu rises the pressure???
is this correct?

as for the way the car was running before i embarked on this adventure. i was getting full boost (6.5psi) at 3 grand. the car would pause as soon as i mash the gas off the line even when i tourqe brake at 2,300 rpm. but just got the timing down and learned to deal with it. i guess thats what they mean by having poor throttle response because of my MAF location

pawnstar12

well the car doesnt smoke as much if any. ***BUT*** i have only -4 inches of vacume, and it sounds like i installed a exhaust cut out. at 3000 rpm the still pops and spudders . did i wire the z32 maf wrong??? there are six wires on the z32 maf and only 3 of ours. pins a and f arent used and b is 5v c and d is ground and e is 12v. our red wire is which 5v or 12v????

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

The fuel pressure sender needs to be in between the filter and the fuel rail, unless you have a remotely mounted fpr, then you can put it between the fuel rail and the fpr. But not between the fpr and the fmu. That will give you erroneously low fuel pressure readings. If that is where you have the fuel pressure sender and you adjust fuel pressure according to it, you are probably running extremely rich, which would explain your problems.

pawnstar12

i figured it out and i was at 60 psi at idle, i am at 30psi now. but read my new problems

pawnstar12

never mind the 300zx maf turned out to be bad and it was dumping crazy fuel and my egr valve was loose, and i adjusted my iac. all i have to do is get another z32 maf and and get dyno tunned